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Vaulted Barndominium Ceilings

I Like Vaulted Barndominium Ceilings

When I built my first personal post frame shop/house, it had a 7/12 exterior roof slope, to match other buildings on the same property. Upper level of this building was designed as an area where we would potentially place a ping pong table. To allow for lobs, I had prefabricated scissor roof trusses built with a 4/12 bottom chord slope. While we never got around to playing ping pong, it did make for a dramatic space.

In barndominium design and construction, new homeowners are faced with a choice of standard room framing on ground level rooms, or opening ceilings up to a sloped roofline. This style of architecture is known as a vaulted or cathedral ceiling.

Many people once considered a vaulted ceiling to be an ultimate in home luxury, but now opinions are strongly divided on this construction style, with many homeowners, builders, architects, real estate professionals, and designers expressing outright hatred for vaulted ceilings, while others continue to champion this style. There is almost no other element of home design earning this kind of strong polarized opinion. So is a vaulted ceiling right for you?

A vaulted ceiling in new construction is no more complicated than standard framing, although it does require special roof trusses, usually built off-site. It is somewhat more expensive, though.

When it comes to finishing a two story barndominium, there can be some modest cost savings to a vaulted ceiling, since a smaller second-story will require less finish material to complete it. Because your second story has less floor space, it requires less flooring, less trim molding, etc.

Creating a vaulted ceiling is easily within skill levels of most DIYers.

Single biggest drawback of a vaulted ceiling becomes evident when you ask yourself how you will clean and paint the ceiling, or how you will change lightbulbs or repair light fixtures soaring 20 or 30 feet over your head. My own current shop house has 16 and 20 foot high ceilings. I change can type light bulbs by means of a telescopic bulb changer (roughly a $20 investment).

There certainly are design benefits to a vaulted ceiling. They give a room an illusion of far greater space. Vaulted ceilings do indeed make a room brighter, especially when an endwall is fitted with windows above sidewall heights. By contrast, an open-concept “great room” built with ceilings only eight or nine feet high can feel tight, dark, and airless. Appearance of vaulted ceilings can be greatly improved by adding wood beams spanning across open overhead spaces. Such beams can offer a good place to mount directed light fixtures.

A vaulted ceiling in a one-story ranch rambler can be a very effective style to convert a boring entry level barndominium into a vintage home.

For some people, a tray ceiling is a good alternative to a vaulted ceiling. A tray ceiling looks like a conventional, 8-foot, flat ceiling, but with a center flat portion raised about a foot or so above surrounding surfaces. Tray ceilings give an added feeling of airiness, yet allow for maximum insulating value.

Vaulted ceilings are notorious energy wasters since room heat naturally rises into empty space where it offers no benefit. Because rooms with vaulted ceilings are often fitted with many windows, energy loss can be more pronounced. Finally, vaulted ceilings tend to be draftier, simply because of natural convection patterns caused by warm air rising and cool air falling. Some of this can be mitigated by installing extra insulation in ceilings or installing ceiling fans to force warm air down into living spaces. In reality these spaces will often feel chilly and drafty in winter, especially for homes built in colder climates.

But vaulted ceilings do make rooms undeniably brighter and airier. Many people find this merit alone is worth the drawbacks of winter chilliness.

From a new barndominium-building viewpoint, a vaulted ceiling is no more complicated than standard construction framed with two full stories but it does raise construction costs. And remember, vaulted ceilings reduce the amount of livable floor space. Depending on the vaulted room size, the amount of total available floor space can be reduced by as much as 20 to 50 percent, since the second story is greatly reduced in size.

A vaulted ceiling may be right for you if your home style is compatible with look, and if you are willing to accept increased energy costs and winter draftiness coming along with those bright, spacious feelings. It’s worth consulting a real estate professional to determine if a vaulted ceiling will be a good selling feature for your barndominium.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Barndominium, About The Pole Barn Guru, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning, Shouse, Trusses, Building Interior, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home and tagged tray ceiling, Second story space, standard room framing, ranch rambler, scissor trusses, barndominium, vaulted ceiling on May 7, 2026 by Rick Ochs.

Designing a Dream Barndominium Loft

Reader BRIAN in PETOSKY writes:

“ Hi Mike,

Mindi told me to email you my lofted floor question for our project.

To avoid messing with truss-support floors, we were planning to build a full 26×60 main barn with scissor trusses the full length. Then on one end, we would make a 20’x26′ loft. Have the floor joists run parallel to the barn, perpendicular to the trusses, so we’d have 20′ floor joists. These would be supported by the gable end wall and interior posts 20′ in.

We live in a barn home with this configuration and it works well. Allows consistent and uninterrupted ceiling space the length of the barn but still get a 2nd floor in where we want it.

The question is, I guess, what, if anything needs to be conveyed to the engineer for this design? Does it influence anything on the gable end wall? How far apart can the posts be on the interior end? Can stairs be free-standing next to this loft?

Thank you!”

Untitled design – 1

When I used to call on Home Depots, Petoskey was one of my stops. Every time I was there the weather was gorgeous, making it difficult to get motivated to move on to my next appointment!

There are some challenges with running dimensional lumber floor joists to span 20′. Even using #2 & better 2×12 Douglas Fir joists, they would need to be 12 inches on center! Other popular specie of framing lumber has lower MOE (Modulus of Elasticity) values, so will not even begin to approach being able to span 20’. Chances are good there will be both a fair amount of spring to this floor, as well as a non-uniformity in deflection from joist to joist.

For extended reading on floor deflection, please read https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/12/wood-floors-deflection-and-vibration/

This would be my recommendation – we can use prefabricated wood floor trusses to span 26′. Doing so would allow there to be no interior supports within this 26′ x 20′ area. As long as stairs run perpendicular to the floor trusses, no columns would be needed where they attach. When you and Mindi have your building details finalized, she will relay this information forward on your Agreement with us, so everyone will be on the same page. Further, we send plans to you for a final once over prior to engineer sealing them, just in case.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Structure, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning and tagged barndominium, floor joists, floor trusses, dimensional lumber, barn home, free standing stairs, gable endwall on April 23, 2026 by Rick Ochs.

Looking for a Place for a New Barndominium

Looking for a Place for a New Barndominium

Reader PATTI in MINNESOTA writes:

“My husband and I are knocking around the idea of doing a Barndominium.

We need a 4-5 car garage space and we can barely afford a traditional preloved home that has a 3-car garage which will require us to add another stall or two onto an already taxing home price!

I’m optimistic that we can pull off everything that’s needed and hopefully within the budget!

I’m doing the bulk of the research and found your site to be so packed with worthwhile information. I want to see what you’d be able to do for us to make this as seamless and headache free as possible?

I started looking for property and messaged the City Halls for the locations we want to see if they’d allow such a structure. Not sure how to handle the siding issue.

Inver Grove Heights, MN

Will consider it a single family home. Needs to meet setback, height and doesn’t exceed allowed impervious surface for the lot.

Exterior siding regulations require horizontal lap type siding or similar. Vertical siding like a pole barn is not acceptable material.

**** Is this even possible to meet this request or is there a way we can argue against it. Any knowledge you can offer would be so helpful****

Rosemount, MN

“The structure would function as a single family home, and therefore the exterior materials would need to be complementary to a residential structure (no metal siding, etc.). Additionally, the foundation would need to meet the building code requirements for frost footings. Also, the zoning code regulates the size of attached garages as follows: The footprint of an attached garage is a maximum of 1,000 square feet but can be increased up to a maximum of 1,500 square feet so long as the garage does not exceed 50 percent of the gross floor area of the principal building (garage and living area combined).”

Farmington, MN

*Considers this Agricultural that would need a minimum of 40 acres, what!!!

****Is this common and is there anything we can do to fight this so we get this under a single family home that we could put on a .25 acre plot?****”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

Thank you for reaching out to us and for your kind words.

Planning Departments are an extension of a jurisdiction’s ruling body (city council, county commissioners) and have basically power of life and death. They can dictate footprints, heights, setbacks, type of cladding (roofing and/or siding), and even colors. They ARE limited to ordinances written by their ruling body, so if you do not hear an answer you like, ask for a copy of their written ordinance. If they cannot produce one, then it does not exist and can be disregarded.

One beauty of fully engineered post frame construction is a broad variety of siding and/or roofing options are readily available.

Inver Grove Heights – exterior siding is within their realm of control. At www ighmn.gov go to “City Code” in the left hand menu list and click on it. Scroll down to Chapter 15, then 10-15-17. B.2 gives your options with steel being none of them.

Rosemont – you do not have to pour a concrete foundation to meet Code requirements for frost. You will have to insulate the perimeter of your building to at least four feet below grade, not a big deal and can be done with rigid insulation (this insulation is typical for any type of structure). If you erect a 3000 square foot (sft) building, as much as 1500 sft can be garage.

Farmington – you threw them off at “pole barn house”. You are building a fully engineered custom designed wood frame home. This should be allowable anywhere zoned for single family residences. You may have exterior appearance and footprint issues once they have gotten this into their heads as being a SFR (Single Family Residence).

You will find as you get farther away from Minneapolis and into county rather than city controlled areas, things tend to become more property owner friendly. You also might consider South Dakota as an option, as our Planning and Zoning restrictions are few and far between.

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Shouse, Building Department, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Building Siding and tagged cladding, shouse, setbacks, single family home, planning department, fully engineered post frame construction, barndominium, Post Frame Home on April 9, 2026 by Rick Ochs.

Designing a Dream Barndominium Loft

Reader BRIAN in PETOSKY writes:

“Hi Mike,
Our building designer told me to email you my lofted floor question for our project. To avoid messing with truss-support floors, we were planning to build a full 26×60 main barn with scissor trusses the full length. Then on one end, we would make a 20’x26′ loft. Have the floor joists run parallel to the barn, perpendicular to the trusses, so we’d have 20′ floor joists. These would be supported by the gable end wall and interior posts 20′ in.

We live in a barn home with this configuration and it works well. Allows consistent and uninterrupted ceiling space the length of the barn but still get a 2nd floor in where we want it.

The question is, I guess, what, if anything needs to be conveyed to the engineer for this design? Does it influence anything on the gable end wall? How far apart can the posts be on the interior end? Can stairs be free-standing next to this loft?

Thank you!”

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium and tagged barn home, free standing stairs, gable endwall, barndominium, floor joists, floor trusses, dimensional lumber on December 23, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Post Frame Barndo-castle?

Reader STEVE in MILWAUKEE writes:

“I think it would be neat to have 4 rectangular structures placed such that each is the side of a larger square, so that there is a courtyard in the middle of it. I see plans that show 2 structures in an L or 3 structures in an H or U, but no big square. Is there an obvious reason people don’t want their own little barndo-castle? Maybe cost is too much to make it all connected? Maybe building codes don’t know how to deal with such a building? I think it would be great to be able to go from building to building without going outside. My plan would be to make one side of the square the home, one side the garage, one side a shop, one side a gymnasium. All one level and wheelchair accessible if not wheelchair optimized.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:

In my early days of selling roof trusses we had a client who was a production home builder – entire neighborhoods of basic entry level houses. His most popular floor plans were split entry or tri-level. One day he got it in his head to do something different, a home with a central courtyard (think of it as a donut). He only ever built it once, so apparently it did not catch on.

Over my 40 some decades of post frame buildings, I have been involved in many alphabet shaped buildings (C, E, F, H, I, J, K, L, S, T, U, V, and X coming to mind), however yours could be my first “O”!

Building Codes certainly do not prohibit such a structure, just keep in mind, any bedrooms must have egress to outside walls (other than your courtyard). From a cost standpoint, you will be creating some frame overs and valleys, adding somewhat to your investment, but certainly not an astronomical amount. As my lovely bride is a paraplegic, I applaud your looking ahead to design for accessibility.

About Hansen Buildings We can create your ideal dream floor plan with this look. Every barndominium Hansen Pole Buildings provides is 100% custom designed to best meet the wants and needs of our clients and their loved ones. Please see #3 here to assist in determining needed spaces and approximate sizes, and to have professional floor plans and elevation drawings produced affordably. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/02/a-shortlist-for-smooth-barndominium-sailing/

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Budget, Professional Engineer and tagged alphabet shaped buildings, building codes, floor plans, barndominium, handicapped accessibility, courtyard on October 30, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Will My Minnesota Shouse Require Frost Footings?

Will My Minnesota Shouse Require Frost Footings?

Reader CHAD in JANESVILLE writes:

“I am planning on building a shouse or barndominium some may call. I am doing 5″ cement with a heated floor throughout. My hope was not to bury any poles but to anchor them on top of the slap. Do you recommend front footings or will I be same as long as I am heated?”

My lovely bride and I happen to live in a post frame shouse just four hours West of you (and you are welcome to come for a visit)! In our instance, we used embedded columns, as I fully believe they will outlive my grandchildren’s grandchildren (for reading on lifespan of properly pressure preservative treated wood https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/09/pressure-treated-post-frame-building-poles-rot/).

Now we do have a fair number of clients using wet set brackets, keeping their building columns above ground (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/05/sturdi-wall-plus-concrete-brackets/).

These brackets need to be either placed into a continuous footing and foundation system, a thickened edge slab on grade or concrete piers. Any of these should extend below frost line, unless provisions are made to thermally isolate them from effects of frost.

The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development Office of Policy Development and Research has been so kind as to publish a plethora of information on Frost-Protected Shallow Foundations, (while not specific to post frame construction) would apply to any structural building system. Heat transfer truly doesn’t care how you put a structure together, just so long as thermal resistance issues are taken care of adequately.

Those who are considering Frost-Protected Shallow Foundations should peruse this information: https://www.huduser.gov/publications/pdf/fpsfguide.pdf, and utilize it to determine requirements for insulation R values, as well as depth vertical insulation boards should be placed and width of horizontal insulation extending out from your building.

Whatever your choice is, you should have structural plans sealed by a Registered Professional Engineer to verify system adequacy.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Questions, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Concrete, Shouse, Footings, Shouse, Professional Engineer and tagged barndominium, post frame house, Frost Protected Shallow Foundation, wet set brackets, shouse, insulation R value, concrete piers, frost line on August 5, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Why Your New Barndominium Should Be Post Frame

Why Your New Barndominium Should Be Post Frame

For those who follow me – you know I am all about people loving their end results. As long as one has a fully engineered building they love, I couldn’t be more pleased, regardless of the structural system.

In My Humble Opinion – fully engineered post frame buildings are your best design solution in nearly every case. My exception would be if one desires a clearspan over 80′ or a very low slope roof – then I would recommend PEMB (red iron).

PEMBs do have some of their own unique challenges – a foundation engineer must be hired, they take lots of concrete and foundation bolts must be precision placed, Requires heavy lifting equipment to erect, when shell is done – have to frame a house inside. Thermal bridging is a concern and how does one hide those big steel frames?

But, what about stick frame?

Perhaps stick built construction’s biggest advantage is builders and tradespeople are very comfortable working in and around stick framing. All registered architects and most building inspectors are very familiar with stick framing. International Residential Code (IRC) provides a prescriptive ‘cook book’ to follow for adequate structural assembly, within certain limitations. These limitations include, but are not limited to, no story height of greater than 11 feet 7 inches (R301.3), no hurricane prone areas with a design wind speed of 130 mph or greater located south of Virginia, or 140 mph elsewhere (R301.2(5)B), and no ground snow loads over 70 psf (R301.2.3).

IRC802.10.2.1 further limits truss spans to a maximum of 36 feet and building lengths to 60 feet (measured perpendicular to truss span). Trussed roof slopes must be at least 3:12 and no greater than 12:12.

Want a 40’ x 72’ x 14’ shop/house barndominium? Sorry, outside of what IRC allows.

And because IRC tables cover up to a worst case scenario (given maximum design parameters), it creates overkill, wastefulness and redundant framing members. Translated to – it takes more pieces than might be necessary in a fully engineered structural system.

Fully engineered post frame buildings include foundation plans, PEMBs require one to hire another engineer to provide foundation design. Plan upon a grand or more just for PEMB foundation engineering and this can quickly escalate should a Geotechnical Engineer need to perform soils testing.

Post frame does not require precision placed anchor bolts, and requires no use of cutting torches or welding.

Post frame requires minimal concrete to resist settling, overturning and uplift. Any slabs on grade do not need to be thickened or have continuous footings/foundations.

Post frame can be erected D-I-Y without a need for heavy equipment (although I do appreciate a skid steer with an auger to dig holes). Any physically able bodied person, who can and will read step-by-step instructions can successfully erect their own beautiful post frame building.

Post frame has no highly conductive steel frames to thermally isolate and attempt to conceal.

Post frame is easily adaptable to more complex rooflines, and can be done in any combination of alphabet letter shapes. Fully engineered post frame can easily be erected over crawl spaces as well as full, partial or walkout basements.

When properly designed (with bookshelf wall girts), exterior walls are ready for wiring, insulation and interior finishes – no need to frame a home inside of a building shell.

Post frame provides deep wall insulation cavities and with raised heel trusses, any depth of attic insulation can be blown in above a finished ceiling.

Post frame can readily be done multi-story, with up to 40′ sidewalls and three stories (or 50′ and four stories with fire suppression sprinklers).

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Buildings History, Barndominium, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Design and tagged geotechnical engineer, PEMB building, stick frame design, barndominium, International Residential Code, bookshelf wall girts, stick frame building on July 15, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Owner Barndominium Builder Construction Loans

Owner-Barndominium Builder Construction Loans

Qualifying for owner-barndominium builder construction loans can be a daunting task. Given 2007-2008’s housing market downturn, owner-builder construction loans are increasingly hard to get but not impossible. An owner-builder is a property owner who serves as general contractor on their own project. A General contractor coordinates everything from budget to hiring subcontractors. Serving as one’s own general coordinator requires work and patience but can provide a huge savings and equity into your property.

Serving as one’s own general contractor requires some research and knowledge. Since most people are not well versed in construction, it would be wise for a future barndominium owner to consult with someone with experience to get an understanding of how a project works from beginning to end. You should look at project size and develop a business plan. This business plan should include a projected budget listing labor and costs, building permits and any additional associated costs.

For further reading on things to complete before going to a barndominium lender: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/06/things-to-complete-before-going-to-a-barndominium-lender/

In addition, a project timeline needs to be developed. This project timeline will forecast the anticipated building schedule. It should also include provisions for delays (they will occur).

Once you have completed a business plan, find a lender who specializes in construction loans. To determine if you are qualified for a construction loan, your lender will need to verify your income, cash reserves, debt–to-income ratio and credit score and know you can provide necessary down payment. Down payment will be up to 30 percent of requested loan amount. Borrowers may use land equity as a substitute for a down payment. These requirements will allow your lender to see if you are able to repay the loan. Lenders are skeptical about providing construction loans to individuals. Providing a business plan for them to review will demonstrate you have researched and understand what is involved in constructing your barndominium.

Upon loan approval, you can begin to assemble your construction team. You need to ensure all subcontractors are reputable and guarantee their work, by proper vetting. Request to see previous projects and ask for references. In addition, check to see if any complaints have been lodged through local building authorities.

How to vet subcontractors: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/04/vetting-building-contractor/

After your team is assembled, establish frequent site visits and meetings with subcontractors to keep the project on schedule. By doing so, you will be able to adjust schedules should an issue arise causing a delay. Remember this is an investment. If you do not play an active role in your barndominium’s construction, your dream home could become your nightmare.

This entry was posted in Building Contractor, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium, Uncategorized, Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Barn Planning and tagged pole building budget, general contractor, owner-builder, builder, barndominium, building permits, business plan on July 10, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Integral Condensation Control

With steel roofing for barndominiums, shouses and post frame (pole) buildings comes condensation.

When atmospheric conditions (in this case temperature and humidity) reach dew point, air’s vapor is able to condense to objects colder than surrounding air temperature. Once vapor condensing occurs, droplets are formed on cool surfaces. This is partly why warming a vehicle’s windshield with a defroster can prevent glass ‘fogging’.

When a building’s interior air meets these conditions, air vapor will condense to cool surfaces. Steel roofing cooled by exterior air temperature often provides this surface. Droplets formed will combine as they contact one another, continuing to do so until they are too large to be supported by surface tension. At this point, dripping will occur, essentially raining on your structure’s contents.

Commonly (when addressed at all during construction) solutions to this problem have often involved creating a thermal break. A thermal break reduces contact between a structure’s warm interior air and cooler metal roofing, thereby reducing or eliminating overall condensation. Installing a reflective radiant barrier, often termed Vapor Barrier, involves laying rolls of faced ‘bubble wrap’ across your building’s purlins prior to roof steel installation. Ideal weather conditions are required for this as even a slight wind can make this a challenging or altogether impossible task. This can cause jobsite delays and may bring progress to a halt while a structure remains unprotected to weather. Even when ideal weather conditions are present, installing a reflective radiant barrier can be a very dangerous task, requiring builders to expose themselves to awkward material handling on a building’s bare roof framing. These risks and delays often generate additional costs for both owners and builders, but have often been necessary with reflective radiant barrier being the only relatively affordable option to prevent interior dripping.

New materials and production methods offer a better solution. Utilizing polyester fabric’s absorption characteristics and their integral application during roll-forming, most better quality steel roofing roll formers offer a ready-to-install roofing panel with integral drip-protection. I.C.C. is a pre-applied solution reaching jobsites ready for immediate installation. Delays and increased jobsite workload caused by problems associated with radiant reflective barriers are eliminated by this product. Also, due to this solution’s simplicity, panels with I.C.C. install using the same methods, fasteners and time similar panel-only installations require. No changes to installation processes are necessary, with an exception of time and effort saved.

It works because this polyester membrane simply retains liquid until atmospheric conditions allow it to be re-evaporated. This is because polyester is hydrophilic, meaning water is attracted to it. It acts as a wick, harmlessly absorbing condensing vapor. Rather than preventing condensation, it provides an absorbent layer to detain condensing vapor until it can re-evaporate as temperatures increase and humidity decreases.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Roofing Materials, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged barndominium, thermal break, I.C.C., reflective radiant barrier, shouse, hydrophilic, vapor barrier, condensation on June 19, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Wide Clearspan Barndominium Floors

Wide Clearspan Barndominium Floors
Multi-story post frame barndominiums are embracing a great feature found in better stick framed homes – engineered prefabricated wood floor trusses.
Loyal reader RICK in MONTICELLO writes:

“First off, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience in the blog and answering questions regarding post frame construction with us laymen!
It is very educational and enlightening.

Kicking around ideas currently. Have a 50ish x 80ish building in mind.
And since you suggest working in 6 foot multiples. We’ll go with a 54′ x 84′ two story building.

Thinking about 12′ clear inside height grade level and living upstairs (actually a lake house so to speak).
You mention you have 48′ free spanned with floor trusses.
I’m curious how deep they are and what centers they are installed at.
As I’d like to clear span the 54′ if possible.

My questions and curiosities are:
• You aware of any fabricated wood floor trusses spanning longer than the 48’ you have?
• Would the floor trusses be prohibitive, as far as cost and losing a lot of height due to the required depth they would need to be?

If I free spanned the whole building at 12” centers I’d need 82 of them.
Working from an assumption they would have to be on 12” or 16” centers raises the below questions:

• How is this done in post frame?
• Would I require regular stud walls between each post that first 12’ of building height for the floor trusses to rest upon to transfer the loads to the ground/ foundation?

Hopefully not too lengthy.

Thanks in advance”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:
Thank you very much for your kind words, they are greatly appreciated.

With typical residential live loads of 40 psf (pounds per square foot) and dead loads of 10 psf, normally floor trusses are spaced every two feet and their depth will be roughly an inch per every foot of distance spanned. 54 foot clearspan is certainly well within range of prefabricated wood floor trusses.

Even with all of my years as a manager of owner of truss plants, 48 feet is as wide as I have participated in – although for our own personal shouse (Shop/house), we wish we would have gone 12 feet wider (no matter what size you build, it is never big enough). Your added investment, for floor itself, between having a myriad of internal columns, or clearspanning is roughly four dollars per square foot. For what it adds in downstairs usability by not having columns or walls to work around, it is worth every cent in my mind. Add to this it allows for all utilities to be hidden from view and they are a winning combination. As we are providing more barndominiums seemingly every day, we have many clients taking advantage of clearspan floor trusses and have never heard a regret from having done so!

Most usually floor truss ends are supported from beams attached to wall columns. This eliminates having to have load carrying stud walls between columns, as well as thickened slab edges or continuous footings and/or foundations. In order to maintain ceiling heights, your building will have to be made taller. In most instances, adding a few feet to a building’s height is relatively affordable.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning, Shouse, Trusses, Post Frame Home and tagged post frame barndominium, internal columns, barndominium, stud walls, Clear Span, floor trusses, clearspan on June 12, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Owner Barndominium Builder Construction Loans

In addition, a project timeline needs to be developed. This project timeline will forecast the anticipated building schedule. It should also include provisions for delays (they will occur).

This entry was posted in Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Barn Planning, Building Contractor, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium, Uncategorized and tagged business plan, pole building budget, general contractor, owner-builder, builder, barndominium, building permits on May 20, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

When is Too Small for a Pole Barn?

Reader JENNIFER from CANON CITY writes:
“Is there such a thing as too small of a pole barn to build? I am wanting a shed/hobby space with enough height to make a loft in the future. Due to setbacks and sewer lines, I can only do a 12’X26′ building. Plans for pole barns begin at 20′ or 24′ in width. I absolutely love the concept of the pole barn because I can get the structure set up quickly, then add plumbing, electric, slab floor and loft later as my budget allows. Wish I only needed a 10’X12″ shed that does not require a permit for my needs, but I am in an in-between size that may be too small for a pole barn build.”

One of the beauties of post frame (pole barn) construction is it lends itself to buildings of any dimension – from what might be considered tiny to covering an acre or more!

Searching the deepest archives of my fading memory, I believe the smallest I have been involved with is about six feet square, to be used as a pump house. Regardless of the dimensions, it is going to be pretty tough to find an alternative construction method which will yield such a cost effective permanent structure as post frame.

In the case of a Hansen Pole Buildings, our Instant Pricing™ program allows for our clients to get exactly the dimensions they desire – width, length, height and roof slope down to fractions of an inch, without having to pay a premium! Your investment is not going to be predicated upon some larger size which happens to be a “standard”.

I always encourage clients to construct the largest building which will fit on their available space and within their budget. It appears working around the limitations of your property, you are planning exactly as I would.

Whether large or small, post frame construction is most likely the answer!

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Barn Planning and tagged post frame construction, barndominium, small pole barn on April 29, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Barndominium on a Crawlspace, Posts on Concrete, and Rafters

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about building a Barndominium on a crawlspace, the ability to install columns on concrete or a pylon, and the use of rafters for an open ceiling.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am in the planning stages for a 30×48 Barndominium. I would like to put the building on a crawlspace. What would be your foundation recommendations for this structure? RON in CLENDENON

DEAR RON: Most often (and most cost effective) is to effectively increase sidewall (eave height) and use a raised wood floor. To prevent rodent infiltration, clients have either used this: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/03/rascally-rodents/ or poured a thin skim coat of premix concrete on the ‘floor’ of their crawl space. This type of crawl space can either be conditioned (by use of insulation in perimeter walls below raised floor) or unconditioned (by insulating between floor joists). Other (and far less cost effective) is to pour a concrete footing and stem wall, with wet set brackets to attach columns.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you have an option to put the posts on a concrete wall or pylon? Where the posts don’t go in the ground. DREW in HAW RIVER

DEAR DREW: While columns embedded in ground are by far your strongest structural design solution and (at least ours) will outlast anyone alive on our planet today – we provide wet set bracket solutions for either concrete piers, thickened edge concrete slabs or concrete foundation walls.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Not too sure if you’re able to help answer my question. I’m a homeowner looking to build a 24x24x10 pole barn with a 6/12 roof pitch. Looking to build my rafters for a more open ceiling instead of using trusses. My question is should I use 2×10 or 2×12 for rafters and do you recommend 24” or 48” spacing? I will have 12” over hangs. FRANK in MILFORD

DEAR FRANK: Unless you will be building with a structural ridge beam, capable of spanning 24 feet from endwall-to-endwall, framing with rafters is not going to give you a more open ceiling than say using a pair of ganged trusses every 12 feet (aligning with sidewall columns). If you are intent upon stick framing, you are in luck – Chapter 8 of the IRC (in Section 802) gives all data you will need, right down to nailing. Here is a link for free access: https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018P7/chapter-8-roof-ceiling-construction#IRC2018P7_Pt03_Ch08_SecR802

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Barndominium, Trusses, Footings, Building Interior, Lumber, Columns, Pole Barn Questions, Lofts, Pole Barn Design, Building Styles and Designs, Constructing a Pole Building and tagged loft, IRC, wet set brackets, barndominium, crawl space, Rafters on April 16, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

Posts, Trusses and Costs, Slab Thermal Movement, and a Name

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about use of one’s own posts, metal vs wood trusses, and cost of trusses, sealer for slab thermal movement, and what the proper name of a garage, storage, and living quarters would be.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: The barn is to be built in 78594. 60x40x15 with 12′ side extensions.
1. I want to use my own posts for the frame.
2. What trusses can be obtained (metal vs wood) for the roof?
3. What would the trusses cost for the barn in material? LESLIE in SEBASTIAN

DEAR LESLIE: In answer to your questions…

1) Why would you want to use your own posts, when we have available and affordable stronger glulaminated columns than anywhere else in America? https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2024/04/new-hansen-pole-building-roof-supporting-columns/

2) Having spent well over four decades deeply involved with prefabricated wood trusses, I have some direct experience. As far as cost – because we manufacture wood trusses in our plant and ship them with your lumber, they are more cost effective than steel trusses. Our steel trusses are manufactured in Tennessee, so you have two sets of freight costs. If freight was not a factor, it is probably a toss up for costs.

Wood trusses are subject to very strict quality control standards. Every span, of each and every order, must have quality control reports to document correct size, grade and species of lumber as well as correct thickness and dimensions of steel connector plates. Random third-party quality control inspections are done, to verify trusses being produced meet or exceed what is specified on engineer sealed truss drawings. Steel trusses, somehow have escaped this level of quality control (even though Building Codes specify third party inspections must be done).

3) We only provide trusses along with our complete building packages, please call Brenner at (605)432-8981 Monday morning to further discuss your building wants and needs.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am getting ready to pour a concrete slab in my 24’x30′ pole barn. I calculated the thermal contraction along the 30′ length to be just over 1/8″. Would it be a good idea to install a foam sill sealer type material onto the inside of the grade boards to accommodate any thermal movement of the slab? DAVID in WESTFIELD

DEAR DAVID: I would be placing R-10 rigid insulation vertically (at least down two feet), attached to inside of my pressure preservative treated splash, with top of insulation even with where top of slab will be. As far as thermal movement goes, this is why expansion joints are placed at 24 to 30 times thickness of slab. As an example a nominal four inch slab (3-1/2 inch actual), should have expansion joints every seven to eight feet.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: O great pole barn genius, what would I want to store an RV, also be at least a 2 car garage, and workshop, with a couple finished rooms for living quarters? What’s that beast called, and what should I budget for it low/high in KY? KIM in PAYNEVILLE

DEAR KIM: Thank you for your oh so kind words, I am humbled. As far as naming it – yours would be my first choice, some would call it a barndominium (especially if it has a kitchen and bathroom), others a shop house. Fully engineered post frame, modest tastes, DIY, budget roughly $75-85 per sft for conditioned spaces, $35 for all others. Does not include land, site prep, utilities, permits. Your Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer, Brenner Carlson will be reaching out to you to provide some firm numbers.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Trusses, Concrete, Shouse, Building Interior, Shouse, Budget, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Constructing a Pole Building, RV Storage and tagged slab insulation, concrete sealant, trusses, shouse, columns, RV Storage, barndominium, Post-Frame on September 25, 2024 by Rick Ochs.

Questions From a Future Barndominium Owner

Questions From a Future Barndominium Owner

Reader MATTHEW in MOUNT PLEASANT writes:

“I am interested in and currently planning a barn-dominium as a future primary residence for myself. (Male, Single, 35, 1 Cat, 1 Dog) The questions i had for you were: For someone who is inexperienced in the realm of pole barn and construction in general, what should be the first key considerations in the Planning Phase before you talk to a builder? Is there a software for the Design Phase that you would recommend that a CAD orientated person could use? Given a build where drawings show lengths ranging between 70-90FT…..What would you recommend as the maximum ceiling truss width? Would a 54x54FT 2-Story Barn-dominium be possible without specially ordering trusses? Do floor trusses impact heating concerns for us in the north with heavy snowfall and multiple day spans of below 0 temperatures? you recommend a solid slab -or- a crawlspace for a barn-dominium build? Apologies in advance for the multiple criteria of questions…just getting started on this journey.”

No apologies necessary, it is always a pleasure to talk buildings! This article gives a helpful overview of where to begin: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/02/a-shortlist-for-smooth-barndominium-sailing/

For design phase, for as little as our professional floor plan specialists charge, even a CAD oriented person can’t afford to invest in software and time it takes to use it (see #3 in previous link).

As far as trusses go – we build every truss to order, to match your site’s specific loading conditions, as well as wants and needs for things like roof slope and any interior slope. You will typically be slightly more cost effective (think cents per square foot, not dollars) to build in multiples of 12 feet for length and width.

Two (and even three) stories are totally possible (ours is two stories plus a partial mezzanine).

Floor trusses are fabulous for minimizing interior bearing walls and being able to run utilities through them. We are in Northeast South Dakota, so we know cold. Our floor trusses have no impact on our ability to heat and cool.

Although we have a slab on grade (due to parking vehicles in portions of our lower floor), for living areas, I and my knees sure like living on wood floors. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/03/slab-on-grade-or-crawl-space/

This entry was posted in Trusses, Concrete, Barndominium, Footings, Shouse, Building Interior, floorplans, Budget, Professional Engineer, Columns, Lofts, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes and tagged crawl space, pole barn planning, barndominium plans, barndominium residence, truss width, barndominium on May 2, 2024 by admin.

Fill to Grade, XPS Between Steel and Framing, and a Post Frame Home

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru advises readers on adding 6″ fill to the site and the affect it would have on columns, the use of XPS insulation between the steel and framing of the building, and some thoughts on building a 3 bedroom, two bath house.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello, The site I am looking to build a pole barn had to be filled to bring the area up to a level grade. The depth of the fill is about 6′ at the deepest point. How does this impact the setting of the post? CRAIG in EAST WATERBORO

DEAR CRAIG: Provided fill was mechanically compacted to no less than 90% of a Modified Proctor Density in lifts no greater than six inches, it can be treated as native soil. If proper compaction was not achieved, then columns should be lengthened in order to provide full embedment into undisturbed soil beneath fill.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: So I was going to place 2 layers of 1″ xps foam under my metal on the walls and roof of my pole barn. So it would be, purlins 2 1inch of xps and then my metal, is this a good or bad idea? Thanks BJ in JACKSON

DEAR BJ: Absolutely a bad idea. Pole barns “work” (e.g. stay standing) due to shear strength of steel sheeting (or OSB, plywood, etc., if used). When you place insulation boards between steel and framing, you are severely impacting ability of steel to carry those loads, as steel can shift slightly under wind loads. Eventually this will cause screw shank deformation (would take some very long screws), as well as slotting under screw gaskets, creating leaking (provided building doesn’t just fail first). If you really want to use XPS sheets, cut them to fit snugly between purlins and girts, taping all edges to achieve a tight seal.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I would like to think of something for my 2 boys and I. One story 3 bed 2 bath. Living room dining room kitchen, laundry room with walk in closets. About what size would you recommend? SHANNON in KIPTON

DEAR SHANNON: In order to determine best size for any particular client, I encourage them (and you) to utilize links found at #3 in this article https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/02/a-shortlist-for-smooth-barndominium-sailing/ This will assist you to work towards your ideal dream home, within budget.

This entry was posted in Uncategorized, Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Pole Building Siding, floorplans, Footings, Columns, Pole Barn Homes and tagged Post Frame Home, fill, site prep, column depth, insulation, XPS, fill to grade, barndominium on January 10, 2024 by admin.

Rafter Size, Lean-to on Slab, and “Barndominium?”

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru tackles questions regarding rafter size for a lean-to addition, adding a Lean-to to an existing building on a monolithic slab, and “the difference between a pole barn home and a barndominium?”

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am building a lean-to on an existing pole barn. It is 32′ long and it will be 14′ wide on a 3/12 pitch The posts are 8 ft on center. My question is what size rafter do I need to span 14′ at 8′ on center with 2×4 purlins on edge? Thanks. MICHAEL in LIZTON

DEAR MICHAEL: A caution – if your shed roof ties in at any height other than exactly at eave, or is not at same slope as existing roof, you have a snow slide off/drift load to contend with and are best to engage an engineer to account for this extra loading. An exception would be if you have a snow retention system on your existing roof. Assuming above is not an issue, please read on. As I do not know your loads, you can fill in blanks in this formula to find out: (roof live load + roof dead load) x spacing (in your instance 96″) x span in feet squared (14′ squared for you). Divide this answer by: 8 x Rafter Section Modulus x Fb (fiberstress in bending of lumber proposed to be used) x 1.15 (duration of load for snow) If your result is 1.0 or less, then you are golden. Section Modulus is depth of member squared x width of member divided by 6 Example : 2×12 = 11.25″^2 x 1.5″ / 6 = 31.64 Fb for #2 grade Southern Pine will be 2×8 = 925; 2×10 = 800; 2×12 = 750

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can I build a pole lean-to and attach it to my shop that is built on a monolithic slab? I did not intent to put a concrete floor in the lean-to. Can I do this without pouring a foundation for the lean-to? The Lean-To will be 50′ by 16′ with metal sides and roof. Thank you. GLEN in HYSHAM

DEAR GLEN: Maybe, provided your existing building footings are adequate to support weight you will be adding. Easiest and safest way is to set a row of columns directly alongside existing building wall, so you can treat new structure as being self-supporting. You will not have to pour a foundation, you can auger holes, place UC-4B pressure treated columns in holes, then backfill bottom 16-18″ with premix concrete to create a bottom collar. If your new lean-to has a pitch break, or is lower than main roof on high side, you do need to account for weight of slide off/drifting snow onto it. This can be avoided, by installing a snow retention system on your existing roof.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is the difference between a pole barn home and a barndominium? SHARON in WESTCLIFFE

DEAR SHARON: Barndominium is pretty much a made-up term, with no recognized or official description. For sake of discussion, any pole barn (technically post frame) home would be a barndominium, while barndominiums could also be other structural systems with a ‘barn like’ look and most often steel roofing and siding.

This entry was posted in Columns, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Building Styles and Designs, Constructing a Pole Building, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Concrete, Footings and tagged barndominium, lean-to, Post Frame Home, slab, Pole barn home, monolithic slab, Rafter, rafter size on November 8, 2023 by admin.

Average Cost in WA State, Garage with Dwelling Unit, and Combo Girts

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru addresses reader questions about the average cost of “a 1200 sf 2 bed 1 bath 1 carport 1 small porch for a contractor in WA state?” If a person can build one structure for a garage with a dwelling unit, and if it would be beneficial to install commercial girts and external/barn girts.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is the average cost for a 1200 sf 2 bed 1 bath 1 carport 1 small porch for a contractor in WA state to build one of your kits? TERRI in LONGVIEW

DEAR TERRI: Fully engineered post frame, modest tastes, totally DIY, move in ready, budget roughly $70-80 per sft of floor space for living areas, $35 for all others. Does not include land, site prep, utilities, permits. Your new Hansen Pole Building kit is designed for an average physically capable person, who can and will read and follow instructions, to successfully construct your own beautiful building shell, without extensive prior construction knowledge (and most of our clients do DIY – saving tens of thousands of dollars). We’ve had clients ranging from septuagenarians to fathers bonding with their teenage daughters erect their own buildings, so chances are – you can as well! Your new building investment includes full multi-page 24” x 36” structural blueprints detailing location and attachment of every piece (as well as suitable for obtaining Building Permits), our industry’s best, fully illustrated, step-by-step installation manual, and unlimited technical support from people who have actually built post frame buildings. Even better – it includes our industry leading Limited Lifetime Structural warranty! If hiring it done turnkey, expect to pay two to three times as much. This is why so many of our clients do some or all work themselves.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: My question is that i want one pole barn to house at least 4 vehicles, an RV as large as 45 ft. and a small home around 500 sq feet. Is this possible? JASON in OWENSBORO

DEAR JASON: From a structural standpoint what you propose is entirely doable. Some jurisdiction set minimum square footage requirements for residential living space, so you will want to reach out to your local Planning Department. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/01/your-barndominiums-planning-department/

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Is it beneficial to install both commercial girts as well as barn girts? The barn girts would serve as a larger mating/screw surface. Additional costs aside, seems like it might be nice! MATT in SPOKANE

DEAR MATT: While it would certainly make for a larger screw target, when wall steel panels are predrilled, keeping screw lines straight and hitting commercial girts really is not an issue. Outside of extra materials and more labor, there are a couple of areas of possible concern: 6×6 columns vary in dimension. With a 2×8 commercial girt, extending 1-1/2″ outside of columns, a 6×6 up to 5-3/4″ can easily be hidden. If your idea is to use a 2×6 commercial girt, behind a 2×4 external girt, if columns run over dimension they will leave an uneven surface for internal finish. Of course, should you mount a 2×4 external girt above or below a 2×8 commercial girt (forming an “L”), then this concern goes away. Your other possible challenge would be in connecting these two members. Greatest force on wall girts is outward suction, so your 2×4 external girt and 2×6 bookshelf commercial girt will need to be adequately connected so as to not have external girt pull away and fail. This connection should be analyzed by an engineer.

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Shouse, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Planning, Building Interior, RV Storage, Pole Barn Questions, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Design, Barndominium, Building Styles and Designs and tagged post frame costs, average costs of post frame, girts, barndominium, post frame house, shouse on July 12, 2023 by admin.

Skillion Roofs

Skillion Roof Question

Reader WELLS in AIKEN writes:

“I am building a 20′ x 24′ pole barn studio with a skillion roof. What size roof rafter to span the 20′ without any sagging? 2 x 8 or 2 x 10 or a more engineered rafter. I do not want any supporting poles on the interior of the studio.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:

Skillion roofs have a single sloped flat surface. Other names for this style include lean-to, mono-pitched or mono-slope, or shed roof. They are popular for minimal and contemporary-style buildings.

A skillion roof can be inexpensive and easy to build. While you’ll often see these roofs on minimal architecture, they’re also a top pick for outbuildings. They provide optimal water drainage but aren’t ideal for areas with high winds.

If you’re considering a skillion roof for your post frame home, garage, or shed, here’s what you should know:

Designers use skillion roofs on minimal-style barndominium homes. They’re also popular for home additions, sheds, and garages due to their easy construction and high pitch.

Skillion roofs are structurally strong. Their steepness provides optimal water drainage, and skillion roofs with a high-pitch work well for snowy climates.

These roofs are not a good choice for areas experiencing frequent high winds. Since they only have one slope, they’re more likely to sustain wind damage than a hip or gable roof, for example. In post-frame construction, long columns on high sidewalls can become quite large.

Skillion roofs are ideal for any building owner looking for a contemporary, cost-efficient, or easy-to-build solution. But along with their strong set of pros are a couple of disadvantages.

Here’s a look at the pros and cons of a skillion roof.

Pros of a skillion roof:

Easy to build – A skillion roof features one flat, sloped surface, making this roof amongst easiest to build.

Affordable – Fewer intricacies and simple building plans result in a less expensive roof.

Modern aesthetic – Skillion roofs have a modern aesthetic, perfect for contemporary and minimal style buildings.

Good choice for building additions – A skillion roof is ideal for additions or extensions, provided drifting and slide off loads are properly considered in snow country.

Optimal water drainage – A skillion roof with a steeper slope have excellent water drainage.

Ideal for Snow – Roofs with a high pitch are ideal for snowy climates since steep angles allow melting snow to run or slide off.

Cons of a skillion roof:

Not ideal for high winds – Due to steep pitch and singular surface, skillion roofs are prone to wind damage and unsuitable for hurricane-prone areas.

Less attic space – Pitch majorly reduces amount of attic space. This can be con if you need extra storage space, a partial second floor, loft or mezzanine.

Wide clearspans can be problematic – Once beyond span capabilities of common dimensional framing lumber, engineered wood (such as LVLs or glu-laminated beams) can become cost prohibitive. Prefabricated wood roof trusses require significant depths at low end (depending upon span), resulting in decreased headroom or taller wall heights.

More expensive roofing – Most common 29 gauge through screwed steel roofing warranties are void on slopes of less than 3/12 (three inches of rise per foot of horizontal travel). For lower slope steel roofs, concealed fastener steel panels over sheathing or 26 gauge or thicker PBR panels become design solutions of choice.

In answer to your question, IRC (International Residential Code) Section 802 has rafter span tables for common load combinations. Table R802.4.1(2) with a dead load of 10 psf (pounds per square foot) probably best matches your situation. You could utilize 2×10 #2 Southern Pine rafters at 16 inches on center or 2×12 #2 Southern Pine at 19.2 inches on center, from this Table.

This entry was posted in Sheds, single slope, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses and tagged barndominium, Shed roof, skillion roofs, mono-slope, high pitch roof, lean-to shed on June 1, 2023 by admin.

Help! My Barndominium Vaulted Ceiling Drips

Help – My Barndominium Vaulted Ceiling Drips

Reader HOMER in PIEDMONT writes:

“I called in today and was referenced to send an email –

I have come across your website and have gained a vast amount of knowledge – I was hoping to get some more information on my situation – I also understand that you actual don’t sell insulation and that any advice you give me might not benefit your business – I am willing pay a consulting fee if you like or if i can purchase any products through your company that will help me get out of this pickle i will be more than happy to –

So my situation (the pickle)

I built a 30×60 barndominium with vaulted ceiling (the purlins on top are 8″) i used about 1/2″ to 1″ of closed cell spray foam all over it then laid the typical pink batting insulation in it – the issue I am having is I am in Oklahoma – on a morning of a cold night – when the sun comes out it heats the metal roof up and creates condensation – hence a ceiling that rains throughout the day – it seems to happen closer to the peek more than the bottom portion of the ceiling

I have tried pulling some of the batting insulation out of the middle section to help create more air space – it did seem to help a bit but still saw condensation on the spray foam insulation – when i removed my test panel (also i used 3/8 bead board for my interior sheeting)

On the peak of the roof I didn’t use the foam vent ridge cap but filled it in with spray foam (I was going for air tight) which might be more of the issue

I truly am sorry to bother you with this issue and any help or direction would be greatly appreciated – please reach out via email or phone and I am sorry if I didn’t give enough detail to paint the picture that I am facing.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says;

Thank you for reaching out to us. Our goal is to assist our clients from making crucial (and often costly) errors they will regret forever. While your circumstance is crucial, it can be rectified.

According to Johns Manville, a minimum of 1-1/2″ of closed cell spray foam is required in order to provide an adequate air and vapor barrier (we have always recommended two inches, as we feel it is better to be safe than sorry). Right now, the underside of your closed cell spray foam is cool enough on those cold mornings so warm moist air rising inside meets it and condenses. This is more pronounced as you approach interior peak due to warm air rising.

If it was my own roof – I would remove all fiberglass roof plane insulation, increase thickness of closed cell spray foam to at least two inches, then fill balance of 2×8 cavity with either open cell spray foam or rock wool batts (rock wool is not affected by moisture and does not lose R value during cold temperatures).

Only other possible solution (have not tried, so is only hypothetical) would be to mechanically dehumidify the interior of your barndominium to a degree low enough to eliminate your challenge. This would probably need to be under 20% relative humidity – so low as to become uncomfortable to live in (Dry, itchy skin & eyes) and causing shrinkage of wood in floors, cabinets, doors and furniture.

This entry was posted in Building Interior, Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Building How To Guides, Building Contractor, Ventilation and tagged barndominium, closed cell spray foam, rock wool insulation, pink batting insulation, condenses, condensation on January 10, 2023 by admin.

Preventing Radon Issues

Preventing Radon Issues in Slab-On-Grade Barndominiums

I grew up in what is now Spokane Valley, Washington. Little did any of us know, back then, it turns out Spokane County is one of six counties in Washington State requiring radon mitigation measures in newly-constructed residences and residential additions. Radon is a natural in ground radioactive gas. It comes from decay or breakdown of uranium, a radioactive element in rocks and soil. Radon has no odor, color, or taste. Radon is the leading cause of lung cancer among nonsmokers.

Wonderful….not.

Building your new post frame home or barndominium in a radon sensitive area? There are some precautions to take to mitigate possible effects.

Passive radon mitigation systems can save lives. When properly installed, passive radon mitigation systems can keep radon levels down without radon fan. New barndominiums can be built radon resistant with a permanently installed passive radon system.
Although codes vary from town to town, there are six basic components of radon resistant new construction techniques:

Install a gas permeable layer before concrete slab is poured. This is usually a six inch layer of clean gravel. Gravel is very porous and allows for simple air movement below concrete slab. This will help your passive radon system move radon and other soil gas without restriction.

Install a vapor barrier above gas permeable layer before concrete slab is poured. A minimum 6mil plastic membrane is recommended (and Building Code required minimum for under slabs in conditioned buildings). Vapor barrier seams should be overlapped by at least 12″ and taped with high grade vinyl tape. My recommendation is a 15mil true vapor barrier, far superior (less prone to puncture) than 6mil visqueen.

install radon collection point with schedule #40 PVC pipe stub. Concrete will be poured around this pipe stub. It is extremely important to create a radon collection point unimpaired when concrete is poured. This is usually done by installing a soil gas collection pipe (drain-tile) or PVC tee.

Seal and caulk radon entry points. It is important to seal all visible concrete floor cracks, control joints and cold joints (where any foundation meets floor) using proper concrete caulk. If your home has a sump, it is a primary radon entry point and should be sealed air tight with a proper sump cover. Sump cover should be removable in case sump needs to be worked on. Plumbing roughs are another radon entry point and should be sealed with a cover. Once plumbing work is complete it is important to seal around pipes with concrete or expandable foam sealant.

Install radon vent pipe. When installing a passive radon system, it is important to install a radon vent pipe through an interior wall or flue chase. As your home warms this pipe, a natural stack effect will occur to pull air through the pipe; this in-turn pulls radon gas out of the soil. It is best practice to use 4″ PVC in radon resistant new construction to allow for maximum CFM in the event the system is activated. Radon suction pipe should continue through interior walls to attic space above home or building in a location allowing for future access. Vent stack should terminate through the roof at least ten feet from windows, doors or other building openings.

Install a electrical junction box within reachable distance of in attic radon vent pipe in attic. This will allow for an electrical source in the event the system is activated.

You may want to engage a radon mitigation contractor when using radon resistant new construction techniques. Radon contractors know how to properly move below building air. In many areas, plumbers are used to install passive radon systems. Often it is found that the suction point is placed in gravel and concrete has created a seal around the radon suction point location. This is dangerous because the new barndominium owner believes their home is built radon resistant yet passive radon pipe cannot move any air. If you have a home with a passive system, be certain to perform a radon test at least every two years.

If radon levels remain elevated after radon resistant techniques have been used, this passive radon system can easily be converted to an active soil depressurization system (active radon system). This can be done by adding a radon fan to the radon vent pipe in your attic space above.

This entry was posted in Ventilation, Concrete, Footings, Barndominium, Shouse, About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Planning and tagged vapor barrier, radon gas permeable layer, radon collection point, #40 PVC pipe stub, sump pump cover, barndominium, passive radon mitigation system, radon fan, radon, radon resistant on October 6, 2022 by admin.

Is a Two Story Barndominium Possible?

Reader BROGEN from HOUGHTON LAKE writes:

“I’m looking to build a 40×60 pole barn dominium with the whole downstairs being a garage space except 10 foot off the back wall making the total garage space a 40×50 and having a 10×40 space walled in for stairs and a storage/mud room or possible bathroom. Then the whole upstairs be living quarters. For the garage height I was thinking 10-12 foot high and the upstairs being 8 foot with either a flat ceiling or have it be vaulted trusses so it could be 8 foot in the corners of the room to possibly 10 foot in the center of the building. I have a rough sketch I made to get an idea of what I want with each square representing 2 foot (I’m no artist these drafts are rough). Basically I’m wondering if this is possible or should I just go with stick built, and any sort of cost reference, because I haven’t seen many two story pole buildings of this sort. I will also be the one building and erecting everything. Unless the price is right and it’s cost efficient otherwise. Thank you for your time.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:

I have been to Houghton Lake several times, calling on your local Home Depot (our post frame building kits are available through them), as well as being a guest presenter on post frame construction to a meeting of your area’s Building Officials. Having spent much of my life as a lake dweller, I can appreciate Houghton Lake’s scenic beauty.

Fully engineered post frame (pole barn) lends itself very well to multiple story buildings of nearly any type – especially homes (barndominiums and shouses – shop/house combinations). I built my first personal barndominium back in the mid 1990’s, three stories! Our current shouse has 8000 square feet of finished space on two stories plus a mezzanine (yes, we have not one, but two elevators).

Post frame is going to be more economical than stick frame – saving a boatload of concrete and being more material efficient than stick built. It also lends itself well to DIY, especially when engineered plans are accompanied by detailed step-by-step assembly instructions and unlimited Technical Support from those of us who have actually erected post frame buildings.

Your new Hansen Pole Building kit is designed for an average physically capable person, who can and will read and follow instructions, to successfully construct your own beautiful building shell, without extensive prior construction knowledge (and most of our clients do DIY – saving tens of thousands of dollars). We’ve had clients ranging from septuagenarians to fathers bonding with their teenage daughters erect their own buildings, so chances are – you can as well!

This may prove helpful in making your decision: https://hansenpolebuildings.com/2022/01/why-your-new-barndominium-should-be-post-frame/

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Questions, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design, Pole Building Comparisons, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning, Shouse, Budget, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes and tagged multi-story pole barn, pole barn, barndomimium kits, post frame building, stick built construction costs, barndominium on September 15, 2022 by admin.

Adding Solar to Your Barndominium

Benefits of Adding Solar To Your Barndominium

Solar energy is taking off in a big way, both here and worldwide. There are around 2.7 million residential solar panels installed in the United States, and solar trends continue to grow as people become more interested in energy alternatives. If you’re considering building a post frame barndominium or shouse (shop/house), you may want to use solar energy as a power source. Whether your plan is for personal use, as a rental, or to sell, outfitting this space with solar panels can be a great option for a variety of reasons.

Affordable and Cost Effective

An exciting thing about barndominiums is they can be less expensive than a traditional home. You may be considering planning a new pole barn as a home. This can be advantageous for a few reasons. In this scenario, you will have more freedom over design and size of your barndominium, and it will require less material overall than a traditional home. In terms of cost, location also matters, and there are some states where it is less expensive to build a barndominium than others. This is because there are some states where buying property and materials are simply less expensive than in others.

However, a major mistake potential self-builders make is cutting costs too heavily when it comes to construction materials. Though you may be excited about reducing your overall project expenses, it is important to remember this is a major time commitment and financial investment. Cutting corners will only eventually cost you money as you’ll have to repair or replace broken or failed elements over time. Another mistake people make when constructing their barndominium is not choosing the right plans for their residential pole building. Not having a plan in place before starting your project will cost you money and frustration, as it will eventually create unforeseen future expenses. Not to mention, if you plan on adding solar panels or other external elements to your home, you’ll want to make sure your design will accommodate those features.

When considering energy costs, there is a false preconception solar panels are extremely expensive and cost-ineffective. However, the cost of solar panels has decreased dramatically in recent years. In 2022, average cost per watt for industry standard solar panels is $2.77 per watt, and this is before tax credits and rebates available for installing solar panels. An average home will need a six-kilowatt solar energy system to generate 9-10 kilowatts of power. However, after assessing your post frame home plan, you may find you have less overall energy needs, and could reduce needed solar panel amounts. If you’re interested in solar energy, but worried about costs, it is good to know modern technology has made them more affordable than ever.

Increases Property Value

For those planning on living in their barndominium, solar panels increase your property value and it’s great to know you are increasing your ROI (return on investment). However, if you’re going to be reselling, pre-installed solar panels can be a very attractive option for potential buyers. Not only will they be purchasing a home able to produce its own energy, they will also be able to reap increased property value benefits provided by solar panels.

If you live further north, you might be surprised to know many cloudy states have regulations allowing for tax breaks for installing solar panels. This can bring overall cost down and make solar panels a great resource, even in places where there may be limited sun exposure at certain times. Additionally, solar energy systems can operate under cloud cover, though efficiency will be reduced. Solar energy systems use a battery to store energy, so even if there is weather preventing direct sunlight, you won’t immediately lose power. Don’t miss out on opportunities to increase your barndominium’s value just because you live somewhere with less sun.

Enhancing Energy Efficiency & Sustainability

A big concern anyone should have when building a new home is energy efficiency. If you plan on installing solar panels, adding elements to your home to maximize solar energy system efficiency can help to reduce how many panels you need overall. When considering heating and cooling needs, a great thing about barndominiums is it’s much easier to install insulation. This is because their less complicated structures require fewer materials, lowering overall installation costs. Something you might want to consider in addition to insulation is cool metal roofing. Cool metal roofing reflects sunlight off your building, and can allow you to save anywhere from 7-15% in overall energy costs. This is a great feature to combine with solar panels, whether you install them on a rooftop or beside your home. A sun-resistant roof will help you maximize your solar panels and use energy most efficiently.

Another sustainability aspect to consider is what materials you’re using to construct your barn home. Steel cladding is an incredible choice for green home construction. Not only is steel reflective and sun resistant, it is incredibly durable. Some other things to consider when you want to increase your barndominium’s solar energy system include:

Using energy-star rated appliances
Installing UV-blocking windows and curtains
Limiting unnecessary energy and water usage
Upgrading to smart thermostats to conserve energy

Adding energy efficient elements to your barn home is a great way to maximize your solar energy system efficiency.

One Last Note

If you are interested in post frame home kits, building a barndominium, or installing solar panels, it is essential you avoid common mistakes people make when building a post frame home. A major issue potentially costing you is not checking in with local building codes and regulations. If you build before checking these local codes, you can waste time and money if you’re required to change, update, or remove your building. It is also important to check in with your HOA (Homeowner’s Association) if you live in an HOA-regulated area. HOA’s are unforgiving when it comes to property infractions, so it’s important to be aware if you are not in compliance, you may face fines later on seriously affecting your project cost.

With this in mind, choosing a barndominium kit, adding sustainable features you can feel good about, and building a brand-new home where there once was none are all incredible rewards of taking on a project like this. If you make a plan, choose materials wisely, and make sure you’re in compliance with local laws, you can have your own dream solar-powered barn home.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Barn Design, Shouse, Building Department, Roofing Materials, Pole Barn Planning and tagged post frame home kits, Homeowner's Association, solar, solar energy system, energy star rated appliances, solar panels, UV blocking, barndominium, smart thermostat on September 1, 2022 by admin.

Information on Codes and Shouses

Information on Codes and Shouses

I have to admit it was rather flattering to have Southwest Iowa’s Planning Council reach out to me regarding information on Codes and Shouses recently.

“Hello. My name is Ashley and I’m a community development specialist with Southwest Iowa Planning Council out of Atlantic, IA. I am currently working on some Zoning and Building codes for smaller towns and they want to include zones and/or building codes for shouses. Since this is relatively new to this area, within city limits at least, I was curious what issues your company has come across regarding codes and if you had any sample codes from communities that you would be willing to share with me?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

Thank you for reaching out to us. We have provided hundreds of post frame shouses and barndominiums in nearly every state. Good news for you (and these jurisdictions) is this project will involve very little extra efforts beyond what is currently in place.

Use of terms such as “pole barn”, “pole building” or “post frame” home, barndominium, shouse or shop/house oftentimes cause permitting waters to become clouded – yet they need not be.

From a Zoning/Planning standpoint – shouses (I will use this as an all encompassing term) should be treated no differently than any other code compliant structural system. Any existing requirements for setbacks, footprint requirements, heights, living area to garage/shop ratios, siding and/or roofing materials, color restrictions, etc., should remain the same as currently adopted. What is important is to not place restrictions upon shouses not existing for other dwellings, as this could end up leading to costly and protracted legal battles.

Currently adopted Building Codes (IRC, IBC, IECC) do not have to be amended for shouses.

In “Effective Use of the International Residential Code”:

Paragraph 4:

“It is important to understand that the IRC contains coverage for what is conventional and common in residential construction practice. While the IRC will provide all of the needed coverage for most residential construction, it might not address construction practices and systems that are atypical or rarely encountered in the industry.”

IRC R301.1.3 Engineered design.

“When a building of otherwise conventional construction contains structural elements exceeding the limits of Section R301 or otherwise not conforming to this code, these elements shall be designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice. The extent of such design need only demonstrate compliance of nonconventional elements with other applicable provisions and shall be compatible with the performance of the conventional framed system. Engineered design in accordance with the International Building Code is permitted for all buildings and structures, and parts thereof, included in the scope of this code.”

In summary (and in my humble opinion), any shouse outside of IRC prescriptive requirements, should be designed and have structural plans signed by a Registered Design Professional (architect or engineer) to meet or exceed jurisdictional climactic conditions.

Please feel free (or direct any jurisdiction) to reach out to me directly with any questions or concerns.

This entry was posted in Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Shouse, Shouse and tagged IBC, codes, IRC, barndominium, zoning, IECC, International Residential Code, Post-Frame, shouse, pole barn, planning department, building codes, setbacks on August 30, 2022 by admin.

Can I Turn an Existing Pole Barn into a Barndominium

Can I Turn an Existing Pole Barn into a Barndominium?

Reader MICHELLE in GALLATIN writes:

“Hi Mike, my name is Michelle and I live in Nashville Tennessee. I am under contract on an existing pole barn (30′ x 60′) that I am going to turn into a Barndominium. (Picture attached) Today we had the structural engineer come out because the city tells me I will need a letter from him saying the building is up to codes before they will issue a building permit. The structural engineer is not familiar with Barndominiums and has some questions about the roof sleepers. Everything else checks out OK. Is there any possibility he could call you to pick your brain on this? I am willing to pay you for your time on the phone call. Just so you know I am looking to do the spray foam on the ceiling and walls as per all the discussions I read on the barndominium Facebook page. Please feel free to call me if you’d rather talk this through more on the phone with me before the structural engineer calls you. If you decide you have the time to take his call.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says: Because Michelle is so nice, here are my insights, addressed by photo:

Wood entry door in wood jambs should be replaced with an insulated, factory painted, steel door with factory painted steel jambs

Reflective Radiant Barriers (RRB) are only effective at controlling condensation when seams are thoroughly taped together.

Roof trusses are unlikely to have been designed to support a ceiling load – requiring further analysis. Provided they are either adequate, or can be repaired to carry a ceiling load, heels are not deep enough to provide full depth of insulation from wall-to-wall. Design solutions could include (a) remove reflective radiant barrier from roof and use closed cell spray foam insulation to underside of roof deck, or (b) use closed cell spray foam closest to eaves on top of ceiling with blown fiberglass to R-60 in balance of attic area. Spray foam needs to be installed to allow for at least one inch of clear airflow above. Diagonal braces at corners are inadequate to properly transfer shear loads. It is possible to replace screws at top and bottom of each roof and wall panel with 1-1/2″ #12 diaphragm screws, with one each side of every high rib. This should get you to 80-90 pounds per lineal foot of shear resistance.

Eave lights should be removed as they will not transfer shear loads and will be covered with insulation and interior finish materials. Truss carriers (and their connections) should be checked for adequacy to carry concentrated loads from intermediate trusses. As a carrier is on the inside face of columns, an interior set of wall girts will need to be added to support finishes.

Sliding doors will need to be replaced either with solid walls, or an appropriate door or window(s). I would want to see an X brace between the end truss and the next truss at centerline connected to each chord with a Simpson LSTA12 or similar.

Connections between roof purlins and trusses are probably inadequate, particularly at endwalls.

Truss bottom chords should be braced laterally no less than 10′ on center (and probably more like every 6-7′). Ceiling joists would fulfill this requirement.

Remove any current concrete slabs – re-pour four inches thick over no less than four inches of compacted gravel, a 6mil minimum well-sealed vapor barrier and ideally R-10 EPS insulation boards.

If a dead attic space will be created, provide venting at eaves and ridge

Roof steel is showing signs of aging, I would recommend replacing – remove RRB and order roof steel with an Integral Condensation Control factory applied, unless roof assembly is to be insulated only with spray foam insulation.

Perimeter of slab should be insulated with R-10 EPS boards down two feet, then outwards two feet

My recommendation – I would continue to use this building strictly as a barn and erect a new, fully engineered and Code conforming post frame home elsewhere on this property. Bringing this building up to meet Code requirements as a dwelling will cost more in time and labor than building is worth. https://hansenpolebuildings.com/2022/01/why-your-new-barndominium-should-be-post-frame/

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Ventilation, Budget, Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials, Pole Barn Planning, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Structure and tagged shear loads, structural engineer, Reflective Radiant Barriers, Simpson LSTA 12, barndominium, eave lights, blown in fiberglass insulation, truss carriers, closed cell spray foam insulation, insulation, ceiling load, fiberglass on August 23, 2022 by admin.

Inspecting an Existing Barndominium

Inspecting an Existing Barndominium

Reader STEPHANIE in BATES CITY writes:

“We are in the process of buying an existing barndo and will be finishing it out with additional living space. The barndo was built by the current owner, along with his dad, 13 years ago.my question comes from a discovery during inspection on Monday. The research I have done is leading me to believe this issue is not an issue but i want to make certain before we are out of inspection period. The inspector was at first concerned that the pole beams were just sunk into the ground without footers. However, the current owner, who is also the individual who built the structure, came out to answer questions for us. He said he sunk the beams into concrete about 4 feet down. Then there is about a foot or so of “treated” beam in contact with the soil. He assured us the beam was treated specifically to be in contact with the soil. I will include photos following this message. In my research I have learned there is a particular material wrap that can be put around the exposed beams so maybe this is something we can consider down the road if we feel it is better or necessary. My question for you, if you don’t mind…..does this appear to be normal/standard practice for the sunken beams/footers? Do we have any reason to be concerned?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:

Most post frame buildings/barndominiums are constructed with pressure preservative treated columns embedded in ground (like what you are seeing). Provided they have been properly treated to UC-4B standards, they should outlive anyone alive on our planet today (for extended reading please see https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/09/pressure-treated-post-frame-building-poles-rot/). Polesaver sleeves™ (https://advancedpostsolutions.com/post-solutions) might also help to alleviate some of your concerns.

If this building was built to engineer sealed site specific plans, then you should feel fairly confident of its structural integrity, if not, I would recommend engaging an Registered Professional Engineer’s services to do a physical inspection to verify structural adequacy and make any recommended repairs/upgrades if needed.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Structure, Footings, Columns, Pole Barn Homes and tagged polesaver sleeves, pole beams, barndominium, pressure preservative treated columns, Registered Professional Engineer, UC-4B, footers on July 21, 2022 by admin.

You Can’t Build it Here Part II

You Can’t Build It Here Part II

If you missed part I, go back two days to find it.

Continuing on…

Post frame homes can save thousands of dollars in excavation, footing and foundation forming and concrete costs inherent to stick framing. This is due to use of isolated widely spaced wood columns either embedded or placed into brackets on concrete piers. Post frame construction allows greater flexibility of design for wide door and window openings without requiring structural headers. It has fewer framing members touching both exterior and interior surfaces, reducing thermal transference issues. Deep wall cavities and use of raised heel trusses provide for an ability to super insulate. Material use is minimized by elimination of redundant members so often found in stud walls. Add to this – an average physically capable person, who can and will read instructions, can successfully erect their own beautiful home!

Today’s fully engineered post frame homes are not your grandfather’s pole barn. Although steel siding and roofing will prove to be more cost effective and durable than any other cladding materials – any exterior surfacing is possible. As an example, one of our clients is building on Lake Havasu, Arizona with a concrete tile roof and stucco for exterior wall finishes.

There are jurisdictions sadly attempting to prevent ‘pole barn houses’ in their neighborhoods. Scenarios usually go something like this – a potential homeowner inquires to their local building permit issuing authority and asks, “Can I build a pole barn home here”? Too often (in my opinion one time is too often) they are told flatly no. Most of these who do move forward, automatically default to an easy route and stick frame.

What is not being asked by these potential post frame home owners is, “Can you provide your written ordinance prohibiting fully engineered post-frame homes”?

Use of terms such as “pole barn” or “pole building” home, barndominium, shouse or shop/house oftentimes cause permitting waters to become clouded. Presenting as a “fully engineered post-frame home” dramatically decreases initial resistance.

My personal experience is well over 90% of these jurisdictions have no such written ordinance. And if it is not in writing, and duly approved by an elected governing body, then it does not exist. When pointed out no written prohibiting ordinance exists, this has always resulted in approval.

In those rare instances where an adopted written statute does appear, I have often appealed to legal counsel for the jurisdiction. I kindly explain, in trying to rule out a 100% Code conforming structural building system, they are attempting unlawfully to restrict free trade and this could result in a protracted (and expensive) legal battle they cannot win. Municipalities do not want to have to explain to their constituents how good money was thrown after bad. For me, in all but a single instance, this has resulted in approval to move forward.

Other courses of action would include taking this issue to the jurisdiction’s governing body (City/town counsel or county commissioners) and requesting their statue be overturned or amended. This can prove to be a lengthy process as the wheel of progress moves slowly.

Now my one single (and ongoing) challenge – Madison County, Illinois. In their Ordinance #: 2020-02 “Ordinance authorizing a text amendment to Chapter 93 of the Madison County Code of Ordinances”:

93.025 “R-1” THROUGH “R-4” SINGLE-FAMILY RESIDENTIAL DISTRICTS

(F) “R-1”, “R-2”, “R-3”, and “R-4” Permitted uses.

(5) Single-family dwelling, frame construction only.

Madison County’s Planning and Zoning Department’s position is “frame” means stick frame only. I have reached out to Madison County State’s Attorney’s Office and as there is no pending actual permit application, they feel there is no compelling reason to address this issue.

Planning and Zoning Departments can regulate things such as setbacks, building footprints, heights, siding and roofing materials, even colors! However it is unlawful to preclude any Code approved, engineered structural building system.

In my humble opinion, we will see entire subdivisions filled with post-frame homes, as affordable housing becomes less and less affordable.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Building Styles and Designs, Barndominium, Building Department, Shouse, Shouse, Pole Buildings History, Pole Barn Structure and tagged barndominium, Post-Frame, stick frame, pole building, fully engineered post frame home, code conforming structural building system, pole barn, Planning and Zoning Departments, fully engineered building on June 16, 2022 by admin.

You Can’t Build it Here Part I

You Can’t Build It Here

Pole Barn Guru Blog When I first began selling pole barn kits in Oregon, back in 1980, they were almost universally no permit required farm buildings. As our service area expanded into states such as California and Nevada, engineering was required in most instances, however there was never a concern about a pole building not being approved for use in any jurisdiction.

Now there were some ‘tough’ Building Departments. Most providers and builders refused to even quote permitted pole buildings within Multnomah County, Oregon or King County, Washington – just because they involved engineering and had plans examiners who were actually engineers themselves.

As our Pacific Northwest pole building industry evolved and expanded, we knew we had clients who were bootlegging our buildings into homes, but it wasn’t until I built a shouse (shop/house) for myself in rural Spokane County, Washington nearly 30 years ago, where I actually participated in a post frame building specifically designed for residential use all along.

In recent years, there has been a literal explosion of barndominiums across our country – many of these being post frame homes. And why not? Post frame offers so many benefits over limitations of what is considered to be a more traditional structural system – stick (or stud wall) framed.

Perhaps stick built construction’s biggest advantage is builders and tradespeople are very comfortable working in and around stick framing. All registered architects and most building inspectors are very familiar with stick framing. 2018’s International Residential Code (IRC) provides a prescriptive ‘cook book’ to follow for adequate structural assembly, within certain limitations. These include, but are not limited to, no story height of greater than 11 feet 7 inches (R301.3.1), no hurricane prone areas with a design wind speed of 130 mph or greater located south of Virginia, or 140 mph elsewhere (R301.2(5)B), and no ground snow loads over 70 psf (R301.2.3).

Wood is a very forgiving building material and, even when miscut, replacement material is usually only a short drive away. America’s home building industry has built traditional, wood stick framed homes, on site for decades.

Many builders, architects, carpenters and other subcontractors prefer to work on stick built homes as compared to alternative building systems, as it is what they are familiar with. Because traditionally framed houses are so popular, dimensional lumber and stick built framers are readily available.

Another advantage of stick built homes is they allow for a great level of design freedom. One can design a home with various ceiling heights, angles and curves, niches and other details. Stick framing is one way to achieve those unique details at a fairly affordable cost.

Despite its popularity, stick framing does have some drawbacks. Because stick built homes are assembled outside, over several weeks, framing lumber is subject to outside moisture. If lumber gets too wet, it can shrink and warp as it dries and cause cracks in the attached drywall. This shrinking and warping can also make it difficult to properly insulate. To decrease risks of potential moisture problems, exteriors are covered with an appropriate and well-sealed Weather Resistant Barrier and lumber should be properly dried before drywall and insulation are installed.

Another drawback of a stick built home is it usually takes several weeks to complete framing. Total amount of time it will take will obviously depend on the size and complexity of house plans and size, experience and availability of any particular framing crew.

A framing crew must precisely cut, assemble and erect framing components sometimes in adverse weather conditions. Working around adverse weather conditions is another challenge with stick framing.

Come back in two days for the conclusion in You Can’t Build it Here Part II.

This entry was posted in Building Contractor, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Design, Post Frame Home, Pole Building Comparisons, Barndominium, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Shouse, Shouse and tagged building department, IRC, stick frame, barndominium, building inspectors, International Residential Code, architects, shouse, pole building on June 14, 2022 by admin.

Barndominium Plans Before Land?

Unlike chicken or egg coming first, barndominium floor plans should come second, after a place to build has been determined.

Reader STEVE in MILWAUKEE writes:

“I am interested in developing plans for the barndo-square with internal courtyard. I don’t have the land for it bought yet, so is it a waste of time to get started on the plans already? If the foundation will be a slab, can the specifics about the land it is going on be on be determined later? Maybe assume the land will simply be level to start? Or is the point of owning the land to make sure the building plans follow the local building code from the start?

As for making the property wheelchair accessible, I plan on having my parents move in with me eventually. They are not in wheelchairs yet, but my uncle is and I see what a hassle it is for him to get around normal houses when we have family gatherings. Plus I think one-level and wider doors and wider hallways are good things if the square footage allows.

My current situation is a ranch house with a large shed outbuilding on 13 acres, on its own well, septic, furnace fuel oil. This is just so you know I am not naively wanting the country life, it is how I grew up and how I prefer to live. I also plan to build in an area with a few good barndo-type builders, north of Milwaukee WI. So I think the entire plan is doable once I secure financing. It is my understanding that having plans in hand makes it more likely to get a construction loan.

This might be against your own interests, but do you think I should develop the plans directly with the builder I choose since I will choose a barndo-builder and not a traditional house builder? Each of their websites show that they can make the plans too. Or is it a good idea to approach the barndo-builder with general plans and fine-tune the plans with the barndo-builder?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru advises:

I didn’t learn much in architecture school however one lesson was your site should be determined so room orientations can be appropriate in relationship to access from roadways, any possible views, north-south orientation, slope of site, etc. Other than minimum room dimensions and egress issues, your floor plans will have little to do with Code requirements. Your structural plans will need to be generated after you have developed a floor plan and will be relevant to climactic conditions specific to your site (most often overlooked is wind exposure).

You will need to have professionally produced floor plans and elevation drawings to secure financing. You do not need structural drawings. Very few builders have an architectural or structural background adequate to prepare or provide what will truly best meet your needs. An experienced professional Building Designer should be just the ticket. You can find ours here: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning, Building Contractor, Budget, Professional Engineer, Barndominium and tagged floor plans and elevations, barndo-builder, building plans, slab foundation, elevation drawings, wind pressure, floor plans, barndominium, building designer on May 31, 2022 by admin.

Hart and Home Youtube Episode II

Hart and Home YouTube – Episode II

If you missed our previous episode, please go to bottom of this article, on left, and click on arrow to go to Hart and Home YouTube – Episode I. Moving forward:

Planning and Consultation – our Building Design team will work with you, for as long as it takes and with as many revisions as are necessary to assist you in not making crucial errors you will regret forever. Whether it takes one quote or a hundred, we will get you there.

Since Kevin and Whitney ordered their building, I have penned this article: https://hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/02/a-shortlist-for-smooth-barndominium-sailing/. In a year it has (with nearly 100,000 reads) become my third most read blog article of all time!

We have also added an in-house Barndominium Floor Plan Specialist to our team. This service creates for you your ideal dream floor plan, as every barndominium Hansen Pole Buildings provides is 100% custom designed to best meet our clients and their loved ones wants and needs. Professional floor plans and elevation drawings can be yours for as little as $695 and should you happen to move forward and order your barndominium from us, we offer a credit back against your investment of $695 – effectively making this a free service for a one story barndominium!

You can find out more about this service here: https://hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/?fbclid=IwAR2ta5IFSxrltv5eAyBVmg-JUsoPfy9hbWtP86svOTPfG1q5pGmfhA7yd5Q

Shipping phase – unless you have hidden in a cave during the COVID-19 era, you have read, heard or seen on TV numerous supply chain challenges. Pre-COVID we could deliver most any building, anywhere in two to three weeks. Now we ask our clients to allow eight to 12 weeks, due to seemingly totally random unavailability of products. Special order items, most noticeably non-standard windows and doors, can take even longer.

You may have noticed fuel getting increasingly more expensive. Back in my early days in post frame, this was a different case – fuel was cheap and it made sense to have our vendors deliver to our yard, we would then custom package your building components and deliver on our fleet of trucks. Well, not only are fuel costs rising, those trucks are not inexpensive either. We have become logistical wizards and now rely primarily upon our partner suppliers and manufacturers to ship direct to your site (other than specialty items shipped from our warehouse). Many of these deliver on route trucks, making numerous deliveries allowing for shipping costs to be split amongst a plethora of orders. This process allows for us to hold costs of transportation to a minimum. As well, we do not tie up hundreds of thousands (or millions) of dollars in flooring huge inventories. It also reduces the number of times any given item is handled, minimizing possible damage.

One challenge we are brainstorming upon (and could use your input on) is getting all of these vendors to call our clients prior to delivery. Our Purchase Orders give explicit instructions to call 24 to 48 hours prior to anticipated deliveries. We have found our steel roofing and siding partners to be best at this, however for some other vendors this struggle is real, as making an actual phone call is seemingly near impossible.

Lumber quality – we deal with wholesale lumber providers all across America. In most instances, they go out of their way to deliver high quality materials to our clients. Because we are repeat, volume purchasers, our clients typically find they are getting better lumber than they would get as a one-time buyer (not to mention we can source product from vendors who will not sell direct to the public).

Our Construction Manual does devote four pages to lumber delivery and quality. Our Materials Department also provides information via email, as we want each of our clients to receive materials within grade specifications. Prompt reporting of non-conforming lumber allows for us to have our providers make no charge replacements (as in Kevin’s case with his bad column).

Catch you soon for our next episode!

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, floorplans, Budget and tagged lumber quality, floor plans, barndominium, Covid-19, COVID, elevation drawings, Hart and Home YouTube, fuel costs on April 28, 2022 by admin.

Hart and Home YouTube Part I

Is a barndominium in your future? Considering building D-I-Y to save tens of thousands of dollars, but afraid you might not be able to pull it off?

You’ll want to watch Kevin and Whitney’s journey beginning at www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMUi9B78GDs. This series is truly excellently done.

Today, I am going to skip forward months from their beginnings to their in-depth review of their Hansen Pole Buildings’ barndominium kit (www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYGF1YY_yZQ). Kevin has graciously done one thing we wish all of our clients would do – provide us with actual feedback!

For over 20 years Hansen Pole Buildings has provided thousands upon thousands of fully engineered post frame buildings for our clients in all 50 states (yes – even Alaska and Hawaii). Our buildings have evolved dramatically over two decades, thanks in part, to feedback from clients. We constantly search for ways to provide The Ultimate Post Frame Building Experience™ for each of our clients. If you (whether client, potential client, vendor, professional builder or vendor) have suggestions on how we can provide a better valued product (where any added investment is seen as being well worthwhile), more affordable or easier to assemble (without a sacrifice in quality) please Email me (Mike The Pole Barn Guru™) at PoleBarnGuru@HansenPoleBuildings.com.

Moving forward – Kevin reached out to me with this on a recent late Friday afternoon:

“Hi! This is Kevin Hart from the Hart and Home YouTube channel. I’ve got some content that’s in various stages of development and I was wondering if you guys might be interested in working with us on a couple things.

The first is just some commentary on a kit review video that is coming out on Sunday. I go through a bunch of stuff that I liked about the kit and some things that I think I would do differently next time. Of the things that deviate off the beaten path I’d really love to have your response to those ideas in regards to why someone may or may not want to do that or possibly what your reasoning was as to why you recommend doing it the way you have in the plans. I would take your response and make a follow up video in the near future.

The second idea I’m kinda kicking around is an execution post mortem. My hope here is that maybe we can take a look at how I interpreted your plans and instructions and the systems/methods I used to achieve them and then possibly create a video together or just give me some notes I can relay to my audience about how I could have done things better and faster or correctly. The aim here being to point out errors and possibly some good things that I did that might be helpful to your future kit buyers and diy post framers generally. I’ve got a 15 minute time lapse video out now that you might have seen that I think we could probably use as a starting point of discussion.

Would you guys be interested in anything like that?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:
When I returned to work Monday, I was instantly all about working with Kevin on this, precipitating this article!

I will be reacting to points brought up by Kevin in his review video (in order of them appearing). So gather up your friends and family, some popcorn and take a watch for yourself, in our next thrill packed installment!

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Post Frame Home, About The Pole Barn Guru and tagged post frame buildings, barndominium, YouTube, Hart and Home on April 26, 2022 by admin.

Post Frame Barndo-castle?

Reader STEVE in MILWAUKEE writes:

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Budget, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Questions and tagged building codes, floor plans, barndominium, handicapped accessibility, courtyard, alphabet shaped buildings on April 7, 2022 by admin.

When Barndominium Batman Light Illuminates

When Barndominium Batman Light Illuminates Dark Sky

Loyal reader MARCO in EDINBURG brought a smile to my face when he wrote:

“*Batman light illuminates dark sky*

Pole barn guru! Help! I am building my pole barn house, Finally. This will be a DIY project with help of friends and family. I will more than likely be building in stages over time. I’d like to start with a 60x 40 hay barn tall enough for two stories, 20 feet maybe? Would I be able to buy plans we can build from off this site? Are DIY plans like that even sold? I see you provide detailed floor plan services and that kits do come with engineered detailed framing plans. We would love to have some plans with the Hansen seal of approval. We have grown to trust your expertise. The information you provide is very much appreciated. We first saw your posts on FB and have spent hours reading on this website. We are not ready to buy or finance an entire house/build but we do have land and are eager to start. Any help would be great. Thanks!”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru advises:

Now I know you are in Texas, where building permits are pretty much a “meh” issue. You are putting your hard earned dollars and lots of sweat equity into this and I want your barndominium to be still standing when a storm of the century sweeps everyone else’s homes out into the Gulf of Mexico (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/11/500-year-storm/).

Let’s start with your “hay barn” concept – when you invest in a roof only hay barn structure, it is designed for Risk Category I loads (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/08/minimum-design-loads-and-risk/). Residential (R-3) requires Risk Category II, effectively designing your home’s probability to last twice as long against climactic conditions. Hay barn design ignores any wind loads against walls – because there are no walls. You also end up with some fairly massive columns due to forces on a purely cantilevered column being four times greater than those of a building with enclosed walls and designed so loads can be transferred from roof to endwall sheeting. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/04/roof-only-pole-buildings/

This should help you with determining an appropriate eave height https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/05/how-tall-should-my-eave-height-be-for-two-stories/

This would be my encouragement and advice to you – start by having professional floor plans and elevation drawings produced.

Some plan tips to consider:

Direction of access – driveways are not cheap and shortest distance between two points is a straight line.

Curb appeal – what will people see when they drive up? This may not be important to you, however someday someone will try to resell your barndominium.

Is there an appealing view?

North-south alignment – place no or few windows on north walls, but lots of windows on south wall (in South reverse this). Roof overhangs on the south wall should provide shade to windows from mid-day summer sun.

Is there a slope on your building site?

Work from inside out – do not try to fit your wants and needs within a pre-ordained box just because someone said using a “standard” size might be cheaper. Differences in dimensions from “standard” are pennies per square foot, not dollars.

Popular home spaces and sizes need to be determined: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/room-in-a-barndominium/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/the-first-tool-to-construct-your-own-barndominium/.

With all of this in mind, order your custom designed floor plans here: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/

Order your building shell including second floor from us – even if you have to finance a portion of it. This way you do not have to reinvent a structural wheel (so to speak) and you know everything is going to be engineered appropriate for what your final outcome is to be. Currently you can borrow money at below what real inflation rates are, so it does make sense, should you need to.

Your new building investment includes full multi-page 24” x 36” structural blueprints detailing location and attachment of every piece (as well as suitable for obtaining Building Permits), our industry’s best, fully illustrated, step-by-step installation manual, and unlimited technical support from people who have actually built post frame buildings.

This entry was posted in Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Questions, Building Department, Barndominium, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Budget and tagged floor plans, barndominium, building Risk Category II, Risk Category I, DIY pole building, diy barndominiumbar, engineered framing plans on March 1, 2022 by admin.

Boral Steel Stone Coated Roofing

Boral Steel® Stone Coated Roofing

Boral Steel® Stone Coated Roofing is manufactured from Galvalume® steel, then coated with stone granules applied with acrylic polymer adhesives. Result is a lightweight (1.5 psf – pounds per square foot) durable and cost-effective roofing system offering superior strength of steel and is ideal for new post frame barndominium or shouse (shop/house) construction. Boral Steel® is also 100% end of usable life recyclable..

Boral Steel® product’s natural aesthetic is ideal for pairing with barndominiums of all architectural styles, from Mediterranean to Contemporary and Transitional. This material is offered in numerous profiles and colors, providing a wide array and variety to satisfy even the most discerning of barndominium owners. Popular options mimic traditional shake, slate, tile, and shingle roofing.

When selecting any roof, it’s of paramount importance to consider regional climate and identify weather conditions most likely to occur where you are installing your roof. Storms, fire, hail, snow, and wind are all significant challenges for any roofing material. Good news is Boral Steel® roofing product installed with proper underlayment and attachment process helps provide safety, comfort, and protection from most severe climate conditions.

Stone coated steel roofing is one of the best possible materials for withstanding devastating hailstorms impacting many of our country’s regions, providing a highest possible UL-listed, Class 4 UL impact rating.

Stone coated steel roofing panels are proven to resist wind speeds in excess of 120 miles per hour, making this roofing solution ideal in regions where high winds occur, such as Florida, Hawaii and Caribbean coastal markets.

With its steel composition, Boral Steel® product can notably carry more weight attributed to snow loads than other roofing options. Additionally, due to stone coating, snow will not slide off a Boral Steel® roof as is common with alternative standing-seam metal roofs. Because snow melts slowly on a stone coated steel roof into your roof’s gutter system, it creates peace of mind with a safer roof perimeter.

Boral Steel® roofing product helps offer protection in severely cold climates where ice damming is problematic. These roof systems provide an “above sheathing ventilated” (ASV) space across the entire roof deck. This horizontal and vertical air space provides above-deck air flow and insulation helping mitigate ice damming and icicle formation issues common in heavy snow areas.

As shown by testing results to ASTM-E108, stone coated steel roofing also helps protect structures from fire spread. Boral Steel® product offers a Class-A fire rating when used with specific underlayment materials, providing extra protection from wind-driven embers, common during urban firestorms.

Total cost to install a product is the first factor many barndominium owners consider, so let’s see if stone coated steel roofing is in your budget. Note one square = 100 square feet.

Material Costs: $400-$550 per square for shingles, shakes and tiles and underlayment, fasteners, ridge cap, trim and other accessories required
Installation Costs: $450-$900 per square depending on factors affecting cost, as listed below

Total Installed Cost: $850-$1,450 per square.

While this seems like a broad price range, the range for asphalt shingles can be even broader. Best asphalt shingles can cost 3-4 times the cheapest option.

Did you know? Many online cost estimators fail to consider trim cost, underlayment, fasteners and other accessories, permitting, disposal and removal fees, etc., so their cost estimates can be inaccurately low.

Itemized Materials Cost
There’s a lot more to a roofing system than stone coated steel panels. Here’s a list of materials with their average costs.

Materials priced per square:

Roof decking: $100-$135
Sound-proofing underlayment designed for metal roofs: $75-$125
Stone-coated steel roofing panels (shingles, shakes, tiles): $175-$375
Battens (used on some roofs to create a grid to nail roofing material to): $45-$75
Fasteners: $3.00-$4.50

Materials priced per linear foot:

Moisture barrier (Ice-and-Water Shield) for valleys/eaves/rakes: $1.50-$2.75
Drip edge: Up to $1.25
Ridge vent, typically installed on both sides of ridge with center open: $3.35-$5.50
Stone coated steel ridge, hip, and rake cap to match shingles/shakes: $6.00-$9.00
Flashing and fascia: $2.00-$4.50

Factors Affecting Cost

No two stone-coated steel roofing projects are the same. Each has materials and installation variables to consider.

Material cost factors:

Style: Specific type of panels include shingles (lowest cost) to shakes (moderate cost) to barrel-style Spanish/Roman/Florida tiles (highest cost)
Panel thickness: Steel gauges range from 28-gauge (thinner) to 24-gauge (thicker), and thicker materials cost more
Type of coatings: Stone coated steel roofing is coated on both sides with various materials to improve resistance to corrosion and loss of stones.
Batten vs. Batten-less (direct-to-deck): Battens are installed in most applications. Installation without battens, or direct-to-deck installation, is possible, too.

Did you know? In high-wind areas such as High Velocity Hurricane (HVHZ), batten-less installation with stone coated steel roofing nailed directly to the roof deck is recommended because it holds material more securely. This factor affects installation costs too.

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Building Comparisons, Roofing Materials, Shouse, Steel Roofing & Siding, Shouse and tagged galvalume, shake, barndominium, slate, galvalume steel, tile, shingle roofing, ice damming, hailstorms, shouse, recycled roofing, boral steel, wind load, boral steel stone coated roofing on February 3, 2022 by admin.

Will My Minnesota Shouse Require Frost Footings?

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Concrete, Shouse, Footings, Shouse, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Questions, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Planning and tagged wet set brackets, shouse, insulation R value, concrete piers, frost line, barndominium, post frame house, Frost Protected Shallow Foundation on January 25, 2022 by admin.

My Barndominium Attic Has Moisture Issues!

My Barndominium Attic Has Moisture Issues!

Reader DAVID in CHICAGO writes:

“Greetings – I’ve got a pole barn style home that’s about 2.5 years old and I’m having moisture issues in the attic. Hoping I can talk with someone to get a consult or second opinion to resolve as quickly as possible. Let me know if it is something you can connect on. Attached is an image from the attic where you can see moisture on the underside of the metal roof. It freezes at night and then during the day when the sun is out, it melts and drips into the attic insulation.

Attic space is dead, image below. Vented through passive soffit vents and ridge vent, with a few solar blaster ridge vents to help with active venting when the sun is out. Attic insulation is R50 blown in at 20 inches deep. Image of exterior attached. It’s sheet metal that’s then spray foamed on the inside and additional R25 batts. Image below from when we had this same issue earlier this year in February 2021 when the drywall walls and ceilings had to be torn out due to water damage. We purchase in January 2021 and the home is now 2.5-3 years old. There is a solid concrete slab that has in-floor heat. I believe it has a vapor barrier underneath from an image I saw. “

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:
You are victim of what is such a simple and economical solution, when planned for in advance. Why builders and building providers fail to address steel roof condensation initially drives me to consider alcoholism!

I do realize they are just ‘selling on a cheap price’, rather than providing a best solution for their client.

Easiest solve is to have two inches of closed cell spray foam applied to underside of roof purlins. Any other solutions will take removal of roof steel panels, adding a thermal break, and then reinstalling roofing.

At time of construction I would have recommended roof steel with an Integral Condensation Control (ICC) factory applied. Investment then would have been a fraction of having to solve it now.

For extended reading on ICCs https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/09/integral-condensation-control-2/.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Insulation, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Shouse, Ventilation and tagged ridge vent, barndominium, integral condensation control, closed cell spray foam insulation, condensation, metal roof, R50 attic insulation, metal roof condensation on January 6, 2022 by admin.

Why Your New Barndominium Should Be Post Frame

Post frame requires minimal concrete to resist settling, overturning and uplift. Any slabs on grade do not need to be thickened or have continuous footings/foundations.

When properly designed (with bookshelf wall girts), exterior walls are ready for wiring, insulation and interior finishes – no need to frame a home inside of a building shell.

Post frame provides deep wall insulation cavities and with raised heel trusses, any depth of attic insulation can be blown in above a finished ceiling.

Post frame can readily be done multi-story, with up to 40′ sidewalls and three stories (or 50′ and four stories with fire suppression sprinklers).

Storage Barn to Dwelling

Storage Barn to Dwelling

Reader JD in FAIRPLAY writes:

“I have read over your blogs & my head is spinning. However, you obviously know your stuff. My question is this, do you have a trusted company or guy who can help me design & build a 30x60x16 RV garage that will meet the requirements of my county, Anderson County SC, to be converted into a human dwelling in the future? I own the land. There are no zoning issues as the property is unzoned & can be used for anything, providing the structure meets county guidelines. I currently have a permit from the county to construct a “storage barn” of these dimensions with concrete floor. However, I don’t want to proceed, only to find out later that what I want to do can’t be done due to an over site I made in the design, construction process. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.”

You will want to have your building engineered (as in engineer sealed plans specific to your building, on your site) for Risk Category II and R-3 (residential) occupancy.

Your new post frame building kit from Hansen Pole Buildings is designed for the average physically capable person, who can and will read and follow instructions, to successfully construct your own beautiful building shell (and most of our clients do DIY – saving tens of thousands of dollars). We’ve had clients ranging from septuagenarians to fathers bonding with their teenage daughters erect their own buildings, so chances are – you can as well!

Your new building investment includes full multi-page 24” x 36” structural blueprints detailing the location and attachment of every piece (as well as suitable for obtaining Building Permits), the industry’s best, fully illustrated, step-by-step installation manual, and unlimited technical support from people who have actually built post frame buildings. Even better – it includes our industry leading Limited Lifetime Structural warranty!

Currently (and for the foreseeable future) there is a nationwide shortage of building erectors. Most high quality erectors are booked out into 2023. We would strongly encourage you to consider erecting your own building shell.

For those without the time or inclination, we have an extensive independent Builder Network covering the contiguous 48 states (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/find-a-builder/). We can assist you in getting erection labor pricing as well as introducing you to potential builders.

A CAUTION in regards to ANY erector: If an erector tells you they can begin quickly it is generally either a big red flag, or you are being price gouged. ALWAYS THOROUGHLY VET ANY CONTRACTOR https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/04/vetting-building-contractor/

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Uncategorized, Shouse, Pole Barn Questions, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning and tagged barndominium, Post Frame Home, DIY pole buildings, storage barn, dwelling, concrete floor, Anderson County, Building permit on December 14, 2021 by admin.

Hanging Single Hung Windows to Slide Horizontally

Hanging Single-Hung Windows to Slide Horizontally

You order a 4’ x 4’ sliding window for your new post frame building or barndominium. Depending upon your geographical location, you will assume this window opens up-and-down (Eastern U.S.) or side-to-side (Western U.S.). Well, we all know what happens when we assume.

It is critical to clearly understand in what direction windows will be opening, at time of order.

Single-hung windows contain two large sections oriented vertically, one atop another, each containing a windowpane. Usually only the bottom window section moves. When it comes to installation, technically speaking you can place a single-hung window any way you want. Horizontal installation of a single-hung window, however, can lead to some serious problems, most notably a high degree of moisture penetration and resultant issues.

When installed horizontally, a single-hung window opens by sliding side to side. If you own a single-hung window and want to install a side-opening window in a space whose length is longer than its height, using your single-hung window for this purpose may seem like a good idea. You can install a single-hung window horizontally just as easily as you can install it vertically, but really you should avoid horizontal installation.

Biggest problem with installing any window improperly arises from the window’s orientation, including horizontal installation of single-hung windows. All manufacturers design windows to work in a specific direction when it comes to preventing water and moisture from entering your building through or around a window. When installing a single-hung window horizontally, it is incorrectly oriented. Due to this, this window can provide no protection from moisture. Copious amounts of water may leak into your building, and moss, mold and more may grow in moisture building up around your window.

Numerous other problems may arise from improperly installing a window. Notably, manufacturers usually automatically void product warranty if it’s installed incorrectly. So, if you install your single-hung window sideways and things go gunny bag, you can’t return or exchange your window because you violated warranty terms. Furthermore, when you install a single-hung window sideways, the window sill is incorrectly located, meaning, essentially, the window has no sill. This can lead to a buildup of dirt, pollen, debris and other filth and allergens around your window.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Planning, Windows, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home and tagged window warranty, window water leak, window sill, single hung windows, barndominium on December 7, 2021 by admin.

Barndominium Closed Cell Spray Foam

Barndominium Closed Cell Spray Foam – and Rodents

Closed cell spray foam applied directly to steel roofing and siding can be a great product for controlling condensation, achieving an air tight barndominium and at R-7 per inch is a great insulation solution. So good, I strongly encourage its use, especially for those buildings in Climate Zones one and two (deep South).

One thing it does not do is to prevent mice, rodents and other similar pests from enjoying your comfortable living spaces.

It’s important to understand what it is inviting critters in to begin with.

Where your barndominium has most air leaks is where rodents, bats and bugs come in through. Usually this is poorly detailed and installed steel trims.

When these pests are looking for a nice, comfortable place to stay, they are going to run along outside barndominium’s exterior until they find an opening. Basically, these rascally little rodents are looking for air movement out of your barndominium.

If it’s cold outside and your barndominium is leaking heat, a mouse is going to find those leaks and consider it as a warm invitation in!

Seal up any openings where these critters can get into your barndominium, especially if you notice openings in your roof or along wall steel base. Those are issues you’ll want to take care of right away.

Once this is done, adding closed cell spray foam insulation can help.

Spray foam offers no food value to rodents or pests.

Good thing about closed cell spray foam when it comes to pests is it does help to seal up those cracks and crevices where it is sprayed, making it more difficult for those unwanted guests to get inside. This is because closed cell spray foam creates an air seal keeping inside air where it belongs.

As creatures search for drafts coming from your barndominium, closed cell spray foam’s air barrier leaves nothing for those varmints to find.

Closed cell spray foam insulation is in no way a repellant. As mice, bats, rats, and other pests can chew through wood to get into and out of your barndominium, they can of course chew through closed cell spray foam.

Closed cell spray foam insulation in your barndominium can definitely help keep pests out as it provides a defensive layer to keep pests out by blocking those air leaks they are looking for.

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Shouse, Ventilation, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Insulation and tagged insulation, air movement, condensation, barndominium, rodents, closed cell spray foam, closed cell spray foam insulation on December 2, 2021 by admin.

How to Quit Your Job

How To Quit Your Job & Build Your Home Full Time

Hansen Pole Buildings’ DIY clients Kevin and Whitney Hart are today’s guest bloggers.

Hey everyone! My wife and I have been building our barndominium since about March and have been documenting the whole thing on social media. The most commonly asked question that we have gotten so far has been how we are able to afford to quit my career to build full time and I’m assuming there are some people here looking for ways that they might be able to do the same. Our method is really simple but requires a lot of hard work and persistence over what will probably be a longer period of time than most would hope for. It’s all about optimizing what you need with some clever ideas on how you can minimize your expenses and maximize your profit and time while you are saving. Hope this helps!

Here are the main points that allowed us to get where we are though the video will go into better detail. https://youtu.be/YoAnoQ9W3JY

1.) The Simple Equation: have more in the bank than you need for your project plus the income deficit of expenses and whatever income you have for the duration of your build + some buffer room.

-if you don’t have enough you gotta change one or all of the above. What you’re building, where you’re building, when you’re building, or how you’re building it.

2.) The Prerequisite: Whitney and I think it’s absolutely necessary to get your finances locked down before you do anything else

– Dave Ramsey’s Financial Peace University was the thing that really helped kick us down the road and we would highly recommend anyone to take that course regardless if you are wanting to build your house or not.

3.) Our Story: For us it took us about a decade to save up to the point where we are today where we could afford an adventure like this. However while we did want to get out of debt that whole time we only knew we wanted to build our own home in the last couple of years and it’s probably only been 4 or 5 years since I’ve started to do home improvement so I believe if your intentional about it you could probably do it a bit faster than we did.

4.) Minimizing Expenses:

– Financing everything is extremely expensive. You will probably end up paying two to three times the price of your home over the duration of your mortgage so paying with cash will save you a bunch of money in the long run.

– going out to eat is super expensive so avoid doing that as much as you can.

– make sure you have a budget for food and additionally delicious and cheap meals to cook with them. There is a lot of info out there online (including our plan on our channel at some point in the future) on this topic so with a little bit of research I think you could find a solution that fits well for your family.

-living on your property pre-build is super cheap. Land taxes without any permanent home on them are quite cheap (at least in our area) so if you’re able to stay on your land while you build that will probably be the most economical way to live.

5.) Maximizing Income:

– renovating an RV is something you can do before you move. You could either keep flipping them and selling for profit or you could rent your RV out during camping season for some additional profit.

– when your income increases don’t increase your standard of living along with it.

-monetize your free time (especially if you don’t have kids!) find a side hustle that is something a little different than you do for your 9-5 to keep things fresh. Super bonus points if it’s something that will allow you to acquire home improvement skills along the way.

– If you are renting you could potentially make trades with your landlord on small simple projects in exchange for a discount on rent.

-when you’re at work give it your all. Put yourself in a company where there is upward mobility and put in everything you got while you’re there. Love people, be passionate about your work as it will eventually lead to your dream coming sooner, get noticed and possibly promoted. If you have to be at your 9-5 for a while you might as well make it as profitable for you as possible and it will probably make it more enjoyable for you.

-If your job isn’t great or doesn’t have much potential maybe you should check out getting a trade job. They pay pretty well and you have the potential to save yourself from hiring professionals and will learn some needed skills along the way.

– our most successful endeavors have been our home flips. Choosing to buy and live in homes that need some TLC is super time efficient, gratifying, and can be quite lucrative.

Those are the high notes. As mentioned the video goes into a bit more depth than I have time to type here but I hope this helps. Whitney and I are in no way financial advisors so you really need to do your own research and find out what’s right for you. Good Luck and I hope this is helpful to you all.

This entry was posted in Budget, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium, Uncategorized, Pole Barn Planning and tagged barndominium, barndominium budget, income; expenses, budget, Dave Ramsey, Financial Peace University, home improvement on November 30, 2021 by admin.

Owner Barndominium Builder Construction Loans

In addition, a project timeline needs to be developed. This project timeline will forecast the anticipated building schedule. It should also include provisions for delays (they will occur).

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium, Uncategorized, Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Barn Planning, Building Contractor and tagged general contractor, owner-builder, builder, barndominium, building permits, business plan, pole building budget on November 16, 2021 by admin.

Syracuse, Nebraska Approves Shouses!

Syracuse, Nebraska Approves Shouses!

Syracuse, Nebraska was laid out in 1869 when it was certain railroads would be extended to it. With a population of roughly 2000, Syracuse is pretty well smack dab centered in Nebraska, in Otoe county.

While Syracuse might be small in numbers, they are forward thinking in following what is trending in housing in our country – barndominiums and shouses (shop/houses).

From an article of September 9, 2021 by Patty Buchholz and published on News Channel Nebraska:

“The website Pinterest offers over 160 images of a trend where designs of pole barns, metal sheds and shops are being used for living quarters called a “shouse” and now there may be some coming to Syracuse.

The city council voted in favor of an ordinance Wednesday that will allow Building Inspector Bruce Neemann to issue permits for shouse construction.

Neeman told the city council he has had several inquiries about the “barndominium” concept, which are typically metal buildings used for living and storage.

Councilman Jerry Werner expressed concern regarding the square footage of living space that would be needed to qualify as a shouse, rather than just a shed.

The council approved the shed/house combination for land zoned transitional ag and in residential areas with a conditional use permit.”

Considering one Facebook group alone, “Barndominiums Under 150k” has grown in membership by over 50,000 in 30 days – it will not be surprising to see more jurisdictions riding this popular and affordable trend.

If you are considering building a barndominium or shouse, start by reaching out to your jurisdiction’s Planning (or similarly named) Department to see what restrictions there might be: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/01/your-barndominiums-planning-department/

Should you be told, “You can’t build it here”, please get a copy of any applicable WRITTEN ordinance (experience leading me to realize rarely does one exist) and forward it to me at PoleBarnGuru@HansenPoleBuildings.com. I will review it and go take on City Hall (or County Courthouse) for you.

This entry was posted in Shouse, Shouse, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Sheds, Post Frame Home, Barndominium and tagged Patty Bucholz, News channel Nebraska, Pinterest, shop, house, barndominium, shouse on November 4, 2021 by admin.

How to Pour a Slab on Grade

How to Pour a Slab on Grade in an Existing Barndominium

Reader PAUL writes:

“I have an opportunity to purchase a barndominium that has the posts set in 20” wide 40” deep peers. Unfortunately the county where this is located does not require a footing. All city codes in this area require an 8”X 36” footing. What solutions do you recommend for pouring the slab now that the shell has been erected?”

Most post frame buildings have shells erected then slab poured, so this should not be an issue. A pressure preservative treated splash plank should be in place around this building’s perimeter. It will become forms for your slab. Snap a chalk line on the inside of splash planks up 3-1/2″ from bottom, this will be top of your slab.

In Climate Zones other than 1 through 3, you will need to frost protect the building perimeter. This can be done by trenching around the edge of the building to required depth – 24″ in zones 4 and 5, 48″ in 6 and greater. It is usually easiest to install R-10 rigid insulation on the inside of the splash plank, with top of insulation even with top of slab to be poured. This also precludes any need to UV protect vertical insulation.

Depending upon how the site was prepared, you may need to excavate inside of this building.

If in “frost country” a sub-base 6” or thicker should be first placed across the site. To maintain frost-free soils sub-base should be such as no more than 5% (by weight) will pass through a No. 200 sieve, and it is further desired no more than 2% be finer than .02 mm.

Prior to pouring, 2” to 6” of clean and drained sand or sandy gravel is spread below where concrete is to be poured. Mechanically compact fill to at least 90% of a Modified Proctor Density, otherwise slab could sink.

In areas prone to subterranean termites treat prepared soil with a termiticide barrier at a rate of one gallon of chemical solution per every 10 square feet.

Install a good, well-sealed 15mil vapor barrier below any interior pour, to stop moisture from traveling up into the slab through capillary action. Overlap all vapor barrier seams by a minimum of six inches, then tape. Vapor barrier should extend up column sides and to splash plank top.

Minimum R-5 (R-10 being preferred) insulation shall be provided under full slab area of a heated slab in addition to required slab edge insulation R-value for slabs as indicated in International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) Table R402.1.2 Footnote (d).

In most instances, over properly compacted fill, 15 psi (pounds per square inch) EPS (expanded polystyrene) or XPS (extruded polystyrene) insulation has adequate compressive strength to support a five yard dump truck on a nominal four inch slab on grade.

Consider this: 15 psi equals 2160 psf (pounds per square foot), making this greater than assumed compressive strength of most soil types.

If not using fiber-mesh or similar reinforcement additives to concrete mixture, place rebar (reinforcing steel rods) in slab center to add rigidity to concrete to aid in minimizing cracking.

This entry was posted in Concrete, Post Frame Home, Insulation, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Building How To Guides, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning and tagged Climate Zones, splash plank, R-10 rigid insulation, concrete slab, No. 200 sieve, barndominium, Modified Proctor Density, termiticide, International Energy Conservation Code, vapor barrier on September 29, 2021 by admin.

Vaulted Barndominium Ceilings

A vaulted ceiling in new construction is no more complicated than standard framing, although it does require special roof trusses, usually built off-site. It is somewhat more expensive, though.

Creating a vaulted ceiling is easily within skill levels of most DIYers.

A vaulted ceiling in a one-story ranch rambler can be a very effective style to convert a boring entry level barndominium into a vintage home.

But vaulted ceilings do make rooms undeniably brighter and airier. Many people find this merit alone is worth the drawbacks of winter chilliness.

Better Entry Level Barndominium Buyers

Better Entry-Level Barndominiums

Thanks to John Burns Real Estate Consulting for providing content data.

US’s largest age group today is 27 to 31 years old. My three adult children are now 31, 27 and 26, pretty well hitting right in there. With the median age of an entry-level buyer at 33 (according to National Association of Realtors), we believe demographics will continue to support strong home buying demand for the next several years. To attract younger buyers, we highlight our housing, demographic, and consumer research leading to opportunities in marketing and post-frame home design.

Housing: Young Buyers Are Already Here.

Those who focus on entry-level buyers are reporting strongest sales. Younger buyers (<35) are stronger than in past years, and many times are those spending at the upper end in our neighborhoods. As entry-level buyers are a bit older than they have been in past years, they are more likely to be in a better financial situation.

While some younger buyers may be in higher-priced home markets, there is certainly a segment of this cohort looking for affordability. This is becoming more of a challenge in today’s rising-price / low-inventory housing market.

Demographics: Entry Level Home Size May Be a Tradeoff for Affordability.

CDC recently reported births declined in 2020 to the lowest level since 1979. With fewer babies being born, perhaps our future’s home has fewer bedrooms.

Our Press has made much about delays in “adult” milestones for Millennials. But as this chart for 30-year-olds below shows, this is nothing new— these are decade-long trends. Over time, most young adults will still get married and will still have kids; hitting adult milestones later doesn’t mean never hitting them. Meanwhile trends suggest significant demand in coming years.

Consumer Research: Reframe Messages

This combination of our housing, demographic and consumer research presents a great barndominium marketing and design opportunity: rather than focus on just bedrooms and bathroom count, why not advertise as “3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and 2 home offices?”

Even if fewer bedrooms are needed, work-from-home environments emphasize needs for private, flexible spaces, even if they are small. Simply having a spare bedroom where you put your desk does not equal a functional home office or workspace. A niche or a nook tucked off a common area, or a small private space to make phone/video calls can be suitable alternatives to a private office.

Young singles and couples without kids are most willing to sacrifice storage space—more so than any other life stage group we surveyed—to improve their work-from-home space, perhaps because they have fewer possessions accumulated and are greater adopters of a sharing economy.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Barn Planning and tagged John Burns, Real Estate Consulting, entry level buyers, low inventory housing market, work from home space, home offices, barndominium on August 20, 2021 by admin.

Barndominium Questions

Questions About a Pole Barndominium

Reader PAYTON in CANTON writes:

“I have a few questions regarding building a pole barn/barndominium. 1. Do you offer any model homes we can explore? 2. Can we set up a consultation to discuss our options as far as building/kits? 3. What is the lead time for purchasing a kit? We are about 2 years out from building but are trying to gather information and plan things out time wise and financially. 4. What are size options? 5. What do the kits include? Probably more- feel free to call if that’s easier. Thank you!”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes: Thank you for your interest in a new Hansen Pole Building post frame (pole barn) barndominium.

All of our buildings are 100% custom designed to best meet each client’s wants, needs and budget, so we do not have any ‘model’ homes. You are always welcome to come visit my lovely bride and me at our 8000 square foot post frame shouse (shop/house) in Roberts County, South Dakota (just reach out to us in advance so we will be assured of being available).

Hansen Pole Buildings has a staff of trained Building Designers available to discuss possible options. You can reach them via email (Sales@HansenPoleBuildings.com) or dial 1.866.200.9657.

Pre-COVID our lead times were generally three to four weeks from order to delivery anywhere in the continental United States. Currently, with COVID influenced shortages of components and transportation challenges, we ask our clients to allow eight to 12 weeks (other than overhead doors are out as great as 16 to 18 weeks).

Barndominium sizes are limited only by your local Planning Department requirements. We can engineer anything up to and including three above grade stories with a 40 foot sidewall (increase by a story and 10 more feet with fire suppression sprinklers). For footprint, you can cover in excess of an acre, should you require this sort of space.

Hansen Buildings Construction Manual Your new building will be designed for an average physically capable person who can and will read instructions to successfully construct your own beautiful buildings (and many of our clients do DIY). Your building will come with full 24” x 36” structural blueprints detailing the location and attachment of every piece (suitable for obtaining Building Permits), a 500 page fully illustrated step-by-step installation manual, as well as unlimited technical support from people who have actually built buildings. Our kits include all materials necessary to erect structural portions of your new home – this would include building shell, any raised wood floors, stairs, windows and doors. We do not include any concrete, rebar or nails normally driven by an air nailer.

This may be helpful to you in your planning process: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/02/a-shortlist-for-smooth-barndominium-sailing/

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Building Comparisons, Shouse, About The Pole Barn Guru, Building Department, Pole Barn Planning, Professional Engineer and tagged barndominium, fire suppression sprinklers, shouse, barndominium plans, structural blueprints, sprinklers on August 18, 2021 by admin.

Protect Your Right to Freedom of Choice

Today we take a momentary pause from contracts to protect your right to freedom of choice.

Your first question is going to be, “Why should I care about what Madison County, IL does?

Easy answer – because what one jurisdiction does, another is sure to follow, then another, then another.

But I don’t care about post- frame homes or a pole barn house!

If you think this will stop at just post-frame, I have some ocean front property in Arizona for sale on the cheap!

This is from a June 23 story in “The Telegraph” (you can email the author at SCousins@thetelegraph.com):

“Madison County is considering a minor change in zoning codes dealing with pole barn houses.

On Tuesday, a petition for text amendments to Madison County zoning ordinances to tighten requirements for “pole barn houses” in agricultural areas was presented to the Madison County Zoning Board of Appeals.

Current ordinances require 2 acres to build the homes. If approved, the change would require 5 acres.

The county routinely reviews zoning codes and makes amendments every year or so to reflect changes in state or local laws and to correct any mistakes. The last time that was done was in 2019.”

In response I sent this email to zoning@co.madison.il.us and asked for it to be directed to the Zoning Board of Appeals (chairperson is a Mr. Metzler):

“I respectfully submit, for your consideration, the following:

Fully engineered post-frame buildings (pole barn houses in this article) can be entirely Code conforming structural systems. There may be a thought pole barn houses are ‘unsightly’ to some, due to being most often sided with roll formed steel panels. Post frame buildings can have any roofing and/or siding materials found on other structural systems, such as stud wall (stick frame). Sidings can include wood, vinyl, masonry, stucco, the possibilities being endless. To place a restriction only upon one structural system, rather than all systems universally could be seen as prejudicial, as well as a restriction of free trade and Interstate Commerce.

Rather than taking the proposed approach, I would offer up for consideration allowing for any engineered and Code conforming structural system to be used for a dwelling in any allowable zone, with the caveat of placing restrictions instead upon what materials may be used to clad said systems. If the true objection is to vertical steel siding, unpainted galvanized steel cladding, or even particular color(s) or combinations, then state as such and make it universal on any fully engineered structural system.

As it now stands, one could erect a stick framed home, and cover it with steel cladding, whereas it would appear from the street to be a “pole barn house”, yet it would be conforming.”

I implore you to take a few minutes from your busy day and email Madison County’s Zoning Board of Appeals and Mr. Cousins at The Telegraph to assist in defeating this onerous proposal.

Madison County’s Zoning Board of Appeals meets next Tuesday, so please do not delay as time is of the essence.

I thank you, in advance, for your consideration. Please share this with your friends.

This entry was posted in About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium and tagged freedom of choice, The Telegraph, Madison County, Madison County Zoning Board of Appeals, pole building, pole barn house, barndominium, Post Frame Home on June 25, 2021 by admin.

Post Frame Homes

Post Frame Homes – Coming Soon to a Neighborhood Near You

After providing or building post frame (pole) buildings for over 40 years, one might think there would be very few things coming as a surprise to me.

Well…..SURPRISE!

Barndominiums and shop houses are no surprise to me at all. I first built one for myself in Northwest Washington State more than 25 years ago (although I suppose we could dial this back to even 1990). This ‘dial back’ was on steeply sloping property where my grandparents had their lake cabin (previously having belonged to my maternal grandfather’s parents since 1937). An aging two-car Model T garage set on cedar posts was showing not only signs of age, but was dimensionally impractical for modern sized vehicles.

My solution then was to tear the old garage down to its elevated floor, build a new post frame building around it, then drop the old floor out. Being as this new, larger footprint (22’ x 24’) garage was on 4 feet of grade change, I was able to construct a 16’ x 22’ studio apartment below it and by using bonus room attic trusses (and a spiral staircase in one corner) was able to have a 10’ x 24’ office space above!

Both of these buildings were on a 60’ x 225’ lot, in the midst of dwellings on both sides. Being as we were located in a forest, it didn’t feel like we had homes right on top of our neighbors.

Now, back to our photo….

When our client approached us about a post frame home on Lake Havasu, I really didn’t envision it being located tight amongst other homes. Most of our barndominium clients enjoy open space where they can avoid bumping elbows with their neighbors. It wasn’t until this particular client forwarded to us progress photos of their build when I had an ah-ha moment!

This client is building in a neighborhood!

Our client is providing their own tile roofing and applying stucco to their building’s exterior. When all is said and done, no one will be wiser to this being a post frame home, unless they happened to watch it being built.

While post frame barndominiums are renowned for their flexibility of design, I can see some astute building contractors realizing foundation cost savings and speed of erection making for a practical solution for most any neighborhood.

This entry was posted in Alternate Siding, Pole Barn Homes, About The Pole Barn Guru, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Pole Barn Structure, Shouse, Building Contractor, Shouse and tagged bonus room, Lake Havasu, barndominium, attic trusses, Post Frame Home, building contractor, spiral staircase on May 21, 2021 by admin.

Human Habitation Prohibited

Human Habitation Prohibited

“Please be aware that the Land Development Code and adopted Building Codes prohibit the human occupancy of any Accessory Building. This means that buildings such as metal buildings, pole barns, tool sheds, garages, or any other accessory structures shall not be constructed or used for human occupancy. Accessory Buildings are not constructed to the same Building Code standards as Dwellings and therefore a neither suitable nor safe living quarters.”

This quote is from Guidelines for the Permitting, Construction and Use of Accessory Buildings and Structures and is provided by Cass County, Missouri.

Taken all by itself, it would lead one to believe it is impossible to build a barndominium or shop/house in Cass County.

Now….. as the late, great Paul Harvey would have said, “Here is… the rest of the story”:

Planning Departments (also referred to as Planning and Zoning or other similar monikers) can place many restrictions on what can or cannot be built upon any particularly zoned piece of property. These restrictions may include (but are not limited to): Maximum or minimum footprint of dwellings, ratio of living space to garage/shop space, wall and/or overall building heights, setbacks from property lines and other structures, even such things as allowable materials and colors for roofing and siding products.

Yes, I know, it is YOUR property (or yours and your bank) however as long as you have to pay property taxes, you are actually just renting ground from your tax collecting authorities.

What Planning Departments cannot legally do is to prohibit a Code Conforming structural building system from being utilized (and to do so could very well be a Constitutional violation).

Most jurisdictions have adopted International Building Codes (IRC for residential, IBC for other structures).

IRC has no language in it pertaining to post frame construction, while IBC indeed does.

To follow are IRC excerpts justifying IBC use:

In “Effective Use of the International Residential Code”:

Paragraph 4:

“It is important to understand that the IRC contains coverage for what is conventional and common in residential construction practice. While the IRC will provide all of the needed coverage for most residential construction, it might not address construction practices and systems that are atypical or rarely encountered in the industry. Sections such as R301.1.3, R301.2.2.1.1, R320.1, M1301.1, G2401.1 and P2601.1 refer to other codes either as an alternative to the provisions of the IRC or where the IRC lacks coverage for a particular type of structure, design, system, appliance or method of construction. In other words, the IRC is meant to be all inclusive for typical residential construction and it relies upon other codes only where alternatives are desired or where the code lacks coverage for the uncommon aspect of residential construction.”

IRC R301.1.3 Engineered design.

“When a building of otherwise conventional construction contains structural elements exceeding the limits of Section R301 or otherwise not conforming to this code, these elements shall be designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice. The extent of such design need only demonstrate compliance of nonconventional elements with other applicable provisions and shall be compatible with the performance of the conventional framed system. Engineered design in accordance with the International Building Code is permitted for all buildings and structures, and parts thereof, included in the scope of this code.”

In lay person’s terms – a post frame building can be fully engineered to meet with all necessary requirements for meeting structural requirements for snow, wind and other climactic conditions for residential as well as a plethora of other uses.

Should any jurisdiction tell you otherwise – please share this information with them and if they are still unyielding, send me a copy of their written (and approved by City/Town council or county commissioners) documentation and I will politely discuss further with them on your behalf.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Shouse, Building Department, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes and tagged International Residential Code, shouse, shop house, IRC, planning department, IBC, planning and zoning department, barndominium on May 14, 2021 by admin.

Repurpose – From Pole Barn to Barndominium

Reader LAUREN in THORNVILLE has an existing pole barn and writes:

“Hello! We have an existing 40×64 post frame construction pole barn that is 16′ high at the eaves/trusses and 20′ total height. It has siding and half of the space has 6 inch poured concrete. We would like to turn this into a one and a half story home. The one and a half would go on the part that does not have poured concrete. How far down would we have to dig to make that happen? I assume more than 2 ft to get to the 18 ft two story height just to take into account the height of additional concrete pouring etc. I also wonder if half it already has poured concrete if it’s still possible to do water lines and electric in that area and then put additional flooring on top of the concrete so the space in between is running the necessary lines? we will not be doing this ourselves we will be hiring contractors but wanted to discuss the possibilities of what we can do with the structure. This is an agricultural pole barn, so do we need something different to make it into a habitable home since the wood poles etc are probably different than home grade? I appreciate your answers to these questions as well as any other advice or opinions that I did not think of that you can offer.”

Before you get overly deep into this, I would recommend you hire a Registered Professional Engineer to do a thorough evaluation of your existing building and give an opinion as to structural upgrades necessary in order to bring it into compliance with R-3 (residential) occupancy. This, alone, will likely curb your enthusiasm for trying to repurpose your structure. While either agricultural or residential columns should be pressure preservative treated to a minimum UC-4B specification, this is sadly not always what has been used. You are most likely to find your existing columns (wood poles) are not large enough, in dimension to safely support a residential use and their concrete footings are inadequate. In order to get to an adequate two story height (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/05/how-tall-should-my-eave-height-be-for-two-stories/) you would be not only doing a lot of digging, but also having to provide a continuous foundation of some sort between columns. In your existing slab area, should you need to run under slab utilities, it would probably be least expensive to rent a concrete saw – cut slots in slab and fill back in.

My recommendation is to build a brand new fully engineered post frame barndominium to best fit your family’s wants and needs.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Concrete, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium and tagged R-3 occupancy, UC-4B pressurem Preservative Treated columns, residential use, pole barn, barndominium, Registered Professional Engineer on April 14, 2021 by admin.

How Tall Are Barn Homes?

Reader CAROLYN in INDIANAPOLIS writes:

“How tall are barn homes? I didn’t know what height to put in…I like tall ceilings …also do u build the homes also?”

Fully engineered post frame homes and barndominiums (barn homes) are beautiful because they only limit your heights under Building Codes to three stories and a 40 foot wall height (add another story and 10 feet for having fire suppression sprinklers – a good idea anyhow). My lovely bride and I live in a post frame home with a 44 foot overall height (and a cupola on top of it). Although this article is written for two story homes it may prove helpful: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/05/how-tall-should-my-eave-height-be-for-two-stories/.

Ideally ceiling height measures when framed should be an extra 1-1/8″ taller than your actual finished ceiling (e.g. 10′ 1-1/8″ for 10′ finished). 10′ ceilings have become very popular as well – “my” Vikings bathroom (yes has Vikings’ colors and stuff all over it). 10′ is also cost effective if batt wall insulation is used and drywall can be often purchased in 4′ x 10′ sheets. Our living room ceiling is 16′ as my wife likes her tall Christmas tree, she leaves it up all year long!

This article may also prove helpful to you https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/02/a-shortlist-for-smooth-barndominium-sailing/.

www.HansenPoleBuildings.com provides fully engineered, custom designed post frame buildings, with multiple buildings in all 50 states. We ship from over 4000 locations – so chances are we are ‘close’ to you! Your new building will be designed for an average physically capable person who can and will read instructions to successfully construct your own beautiful building (and many of our clients do DIY).

Your building will come with full 24” x 36” structural blueprints detailing the location and attachment of every piece (suitable for obtaining Building Permits), a 500 page fully illustrated step-by-step installation manual, as well as unlimited technical support from people who have actually built buildings.

For those without the time or inclination, we have an extensive independent Builder Network covering the contiguous 48 states. We can assist you in getting erection labor pricing as well as introducing you to potential builders.

We would appreciate the opportunity to participate in your new home. Once you have them, please email your building plans, site address and best contact number to our Design Studio Manager caleb@hansenpolebuildings.com (866)200-9657 Thank you.

This entry was posted in About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Barn Planning, Building Contractor, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Questions, Barndominium and tagged ceiling height, builders, blueprints, barndominium, custom designed pole buildings, Post Frame Home on April 7, 2021 by admin.

Rascally Rodents

Rodents, such as rats and house mice cause serious damage to structures of barndominiums, shop/houses and other buildings. These rascally rodents can cause grief with any structural system – not just post frame buildings. While rodents are notorious for their consumption and contamination of feed, rodent damage to insulation raises heating and cooling bills. Rodent-proof construction is your first and most important step on reducing rodent damage.

To prevent rodent entry, determine if a void is suitable for filling with caulk to stop airflow. If yes, use an appropriate caulk and backing to stop potential airflow through opening. Install a gnaw-resistant barrier over the gap to prevent entry. Recommended would be hardware cloth (wire mesh) 19 gauge. ½ x ½-inch mesh to exclude rats; 24-gauge, ¼ x ¼-inch to exclude mice. For openings less than ¾-inch wide unable to be secured by other means, tightly wedge copper or stainless steel wool into the gap.

Gaps or flaws often exist along building exteriors where wall framing meets foundations or slabs on grade. These gaps or flaws provide easy access to rodents. Rats can burrow beneath a concrete floor or shallow foundation wall. They frequently seek shelter under concrete floors and slabs, where they burrow to seek protection. Ideally install floors, slabs and sidewalks with curtain walls of ¼-inch mesh wire. Placing 18 inches of compacted sharp gravel under slab perimeters helps to discourage rodent burrowing as well.

Wire mesh should be galvanized or stainless steel for longevity and at a significantly lower cost than concrete ‘rat walls’.

Perimeter insulation is a necessary part of energy-efficient construction. Insulation around building exteriors, however, is subject to both mechanical damage and destruction by rodents. Besides wire-mesh protective coverings such as stucco, cement board, high-density fiberglass-reinforced plastics, or surface bonding products may also be used to protect rigid board insulation. Extend protective coverings or mesh at least 36 inches below finished grade, making sure no gaps are present at top or between covering members.

Concerned about burrowing rodents, or if your jurisdiction has a “rat wall” requirement? If so, investing in some wire mesh appears to be a cost effective prevention method.

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes and tagged rodents, wire mesh, hwire, house mice, hardware cloth, barndominium, stainless steel wool, rat walls on March 19, 2021 by admin.

Barndominium Building on Solid Ground

For many, a new barndominium is looked upon as being a ‘forever’ home. This is an opportunity to have a floor plan custom crafted to meet all sorts of family wants and needs – whether it is a huge country kitchen or shop space big enough to house a fleet of classic vehicles.

It is yours.

It is YOUR hard earned dollars going to pay for this lovely new home.

While I encourage everyone who can to at least act as their own General Contractor (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/02/does-my-barndominium-need-a-turn-key-general-contractor/), not everyone feels confident in doing this. In some instances lenders require a General Contractor’s involvement. For others, their new barndominium and their current home and careers are geographically not close enough to allow for this to occur.

Scary things can happen when turnkey General Contractors are left to their own devices. I have penned previously (okay hunt-and-pecked) on how to avoid General Contractor challenges (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/11/a-contractor-for-your-new-barndominium/).
Crucial to long term success with your new barndominium is having a solid base to build upon. Those doing work DIY have an advantage – you get to supervise (or do) site preparation and any needed compaction.

drywall crack Having a barndominium built? You may anticipate a few things going wrong, but you’d expect your builder to erect your house on solid ground, right? Don’t be so sure.
Population growth and urban sprawl mean there’s not much residential land left in many areas. “What’s left is not very good,” says Daniel G. Knowler, a senior engagement manager at Navigant Consulting, specializing in construction disputes. A lot of homes are being built on expansive soil — it swells when it rains — without adequate safeguards.

One family moved into their new home in Highlands Ranch, Colorado, and long cracks started showing up in walls, then their porch started pulling away from their house. After badgering his builder for a soils report, this homeowner learned their lot was a hot spot for potential swell! Eventually a court found for these homeowners and ordered restitution from said builder.

(for extended reading on barndominiums on expansive soils please see: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/07/barndominium-on-expansive-soils/)
Problems besides swelling soil can occur. In Laguna Niguel, California four hillside homes built on an ancient landslide site toppled after unstable soil gave way. Besides these four homes collapsing, they landed on top of other dwellings below – destroying them!

Do not assume a turnkey General Contractor will make all potential problems go away, sadly they can cause more than they solve.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Building Contractor, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home and tagged expansive soils, turnkey general contractor, Highlands Ranch CO, general contractor, swelling soil, soil compaction, site preparation, barndominium on March 4, 2021 by admin.

Blog 2000

2000
Thank you to loyal readers who have made this blog a success – today marks 2000 blog articles written and shared! It could not have been done without your continued support and encouragement.

Back in December 2015, I shared a milestone of reaching 1000 articles, and thought it was a very big number (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/12/1000/). Having written now over a million words in these articles, I try to put it into perspective when compared to Hansen Pole Buildings’ Construction Manual. This manual walks through complete assembly of structural portions of fully engineered Hansen Pole Buildings. At just over 500 pages, it has nearly 70,000 words – meaning these blog articles are roughly 15 times as lengthy!

Hansen Buildings Construction Manual Sidebar – for those who are interested in acquiring one of these manuals, they are available by reaching out to Plans@HansenPoleBuildings.com. It does offer many tips for prospective Do-It-Yourselfers as well as builders.

Our industry has changed dramatically since article #1000. Although I have owned and lived in shop/houses (shouses) for over 25 years, and had clients from time-to-time invest in our post frame buildings for homes, there has been an explosion in demand for barndominiums. Over half of all inquiries we receive are for people in search of homes. Some are looking to create unique architectural features or just love their aesthetics, while others are trying to find an affordable housing option.

Post frame construction is going to be more affordable than what most people consider ‘traditional’ construction – stick framing. Most savings are to be found by utilization of ease of construction of post frame buildings. Average physical capable people who can and will read directions can successfully erect their own beautiful post frame homes – and many of our clients do. A total DIYer can cut costs in half! Want a $400,000 home for $200,000? Unless you knock down some huge dollars at your career, one could take a year or more off work to erect their new home, and come out ahead financially.

Consider also – when you pay someone out of pocket to do this work for you, you have had to pay taxes on your income, to pay a subcontractor. Depending upon which state you reside in and your tax bracket – it takes gross earnings of $100 to pay out $50 to $65. Yet one more reason to do it yourself.
Who would have thought, five years ago, our world view would be changed by a virus?

Certainly not I.

With Americans fleeing big cities with huge taxes, for rural and greener pastures – fully engineered post frame homes make sense. Your new home can be crafted to best meet you and your family’s wants and needs, both for today and for future decades of happy living. Your only limitations being your imagination, your budget and available space.

This entry was posted in Budget, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Building Comparisons, Post Frame Home, About The Pole Barn Guru, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Building Contractor, Shouse and tagged stick framing, fully engineered post frame homes, Hansen Pole Buildings, barndominium, Hansen Buildings Construction Manual, shouse, post frame construction on February 23, 2021 by admin.

Looking for a Place for a New Barndominium

Reader PATTI in MINNESOTA writes:

“My husband and I are knocking around the idea of doing a Barndominium.

We need a 4-5 car garage space and we can barely afford a traditional preloved home that has a 3-car garage which will require us to add another stall or two onto an already taxing home price!

I’m optimistic that we can pull off everything that’s needed and hopefully within the budget!

I started looking for property and messaged the City Halls for the locations we want to see if they’d allow such a structure. Not sure how to handle the siding issue.

Inver Grove Heights, MN

Will consider it a single family home. Needs to meet setback, height and doesn’t exceed allowed impervious surface for the lot.

Exterior siding regulations require horizontal lap type siding or similar. Vertical siding like a pole barn is not acceptable material.

**** Is this even possible to meet this request or is there a way we can argue against it. Any knowledge you can offer would be so helpful****

Rosemount, MN

Farmington, MN

*Considers this Agricultural that would need a minimum of 40 acres, what!!!

****Is this common and is there anything we can do to fight this so we get this under a single family home that we could put on a .25 acre plot?****”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

Thank you for reaching out to us and for your kind words.

Planning Departments are an extension of a jurisdiction’s ruling body (city council, county commissioners) and have basically power of life and death. They can dictate footprints, heights, setbacks, type of cladding (roofing and/or siding), and even colors. They ARE limited to ordinances written by their ruling body, so if you do not hear an answer you like, ask for a copy of their written ordinance. If they cannot produce one, then it does not exist and can be disregarded.

One beauty of fully engineered post frame construction is a broad variety of siding and/or roofing options are readily available.

Inver Grove Heights – exterior siding is within their realm of control. At www ighmn.gov go to “City Code” in the left hand menu list and click on it. Scroll down to Chapter 15, then 10-15-17. B.2 gives your options with steel being none of them.

Rosemont – you do not have to pour a concrete foundation to meet Code requirements for frost. You will have to insulate the perimeter of your building to at least four feet below grade, not a big deal and can be done with rigid insulation (this insulation is typical for any type of structure). If you erect a 3000 square foot (sft) building, as much as 1500 sft can be garage.

Farmington – you threw them off at “pole barn house”. You are building a fully engineered custom designed wood frame home. This should be allowable anywhere zoned for single family residences. You may have exterior appearance and footprint issues once they have gotten this into their heads as being a SFR (Single Family Residence).

You will find as you get farther away from Minneapolis and into county rather than city controlled areas, things tend to become more property owner friendly. You also might consider South Dakota as an option, as our Planning and Zoning restrictions are few and far between.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Shouse, Building Department, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Building Siding, Post Frame Home and tagged shouse, setbacks, single family home, planning department, fully engineered post frame construction, barndominium, Post Frame Home, cladding on February 19, 2021 by admin.

Floored By A Barndominium Elevator

Recently I have penned a couple of articles about elevators (yes plural, we have two) in our Northeast South Dakota post frame shop/house. Certainly not every barndominium needs an elevator, but if you have more than one level, there is a better than fair chance someone with mobility challenges will be unable to access portions of your home.

Our full sized elevator came with an unfinished 48” x 54” particle board floor. I decided to test my skills of being overly anal, by covering this surface with coins, mostly pennies!

Here you see a most crucial tool – four foot level used as a prop to hold the elevator door open!

While most coins in this will be pennies, dead center are nine U.S. dollar coins – from Ecuador!

When our youngest daughter Allison was a high school sophomore, she was an exchange student in Ecuador for a year. My lovely bride and I went to visit her and found most money there looked very familiar, as they use American currency. All of those dollar coins rarely seen here? They ended up in Ecuador, where my bride was totally fascinated by them! Hence, their key location.

In creating this work of art, I realized I had become my Father. I sorted through thousands and thousands of pennies – discarding ones where they were overly worn or patinaed. Coins were organized by me by color and date. I grouped placement so as to feature the birth years of our children, grand children and anniversary dates, while maintaining a pattern.

Camera angle creates some distortion, in reality everything is straight! Area in the upper right is to mimic the pattern in corners of our hardwood floors.

All coins in place in this shot and black grout was used to fill spaces. I used a bench grinder and pliers to shape pennies to fit where the center portion and edges met.

Several coats of clear polyurethane finished up this project. The picture doesn’t do it justice. It’s truly a work of art!
And no, I have no idea how many coins it took to put this together. I had roughly a hundred hours of my time in sorting, shaping and gluing. It was worth every penny!

This entry was posted in Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Planning, Building Interior, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Shouse, About The Pole Barn Guru and tagged Ecuador dollars, barndominium, pennies, elevator floor, polyurethane on February 17, 2021 by admin.

A Shortlist for Smooth Barndominium Sailing

Every builder worth his or her salt is busy right now – there is a far greater demand for builders, than there are builders to fill needs. This makes builder’s time extremely valuable. There are some things you can do to make for smooth sailing when shopping for and/or dealing with contractors.

#1 Have a realistic budget – fully engineered post frame, PEMB and weld up barndominiums CAN be more affordable than stick frame. But, they are not going to be 10-50% less. Think about it – your only differences are in structural systems, all of your electrical, plumbing, HVAC, insulation, interior finishes, fixtures, cabinets, floor coverings, etc., are going to be identical investments no matter what structural system is chosen.

Outside of land costs and bringing utilities to your site, you are simply not going to build a barndominium with 2000 square feet of living space for $100k turnkey (and unlikely to reach this even if you DIY absolutely everything).

This will help you to determine a budget: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/07/how-much-will-my-barndominium-cost/

#2 Have a place to build. If you do not ‘own the dirt’ you have no business burning a builder’s time.

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/08/a-place-for-a-post-frame-barndominium/

https://hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/08/see-your-new-barndominium-here/

#3 Have professional floor plans and elevation drawings done before pestering a builder. Very few builders are professional designers or architects – expecting them to be is unrealistic.

If you do not own the dirt, it is impossible to craft a barndominium plan to best fit with your building site.

Some plan tips to consider:

Direction of access – driveways are not cheap and shortest distance between two points is a straight line.

Curb appeal – what will people see when they drive up? This may not be important to you, however some day someone will try to resell your barndominium.

Is there an appealing view?

North-south alignment – place no or few windows on north walls, but lots of windows on south wall (in the South reverse this). Roof overhangs on south wall should provide shade to windows from mid-day summer sun.

Is there a slope on your building site?

Work from inside out – do not try to fit your wants and needs within a pre-ordained box just because someone said using a “standard” size might be cheaper. Differences in dimensions from “standard” are pennies per square foot, not dollars.

Popular home spaces and sizes need to be determined: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/room-in-a-barndominium/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/the-first-tool-to-construct-your-own-barndominium/.

With all of this in mind, order your custom designed floor plans here: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/

#4 Determine if you are going to act as your own General Contractor, or hire it done (being your own General Contractor saves roughly 25%).

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/02/does-my-barndominium-need-a-turn-key-general-contractor/

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/11/a-contractor-for-your-new-barndominium/

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/11/a-contractor-for-your-barndominium-part-ii/

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/11/a-contractor-for-your-barndominium-part-iii/

Need a Building Erector? https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/find-a-builder/

#5 If needed, arrange financing:

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/06/things-to-complete-before-going-to-a-barndominium-lender/

Lender telling you a General Contractor must be involved? Our lenders understand DIYers:

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/financing/

#6 Select a Structural Building System

https://hansenpolebuildings.com/2022/01/why-your-new-barndominium-should-be-post-frame/

#7 To obtain a successful and happy outcome, do lots of reading and research. An informed barndominium owner is a happy one!

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Shouse, Building Contractor and tagged general contractor, architect, floor plans, barndominium, Financing, shouse on February 16, 2021 by admin.

Pneumatic Vacuum Elevators for Barndominiums

Thank you to my friend John Lyle who encouraged me to write about elevators.

As a child, I was fascinated by going through bank drive thrus with our mother as she made bank deposits.

Why?

Because Mother could fill up a clear plastic cylinder with her deposit, push a button and it was whisked away to a voice somewhere inside! It wouldn’t be long and whoosh – cylinder would reappear, Mother removed her deposit receipt and away we went.

Obviously it took very little to entertain and amaze me.

When my lovely bride and I were planning our shop/house barndominium 16 years ago, our living space would be 20 feet above grade. This means stairs and lots of them. Even using residential maximum rise of 7-3/4” this 20 feet of climb results in a total of 30 stairs.

Now this is great for cardio training, however my lovely bride told me in no uncertain terms was she going to haul groceries up all of those stairs!

My wife did our elevator shopping and found a somewhat affordable option – a pneumatic elevator! My childhood fascination was loving this solution! Our choice then was a 37” diameter unit, good for two persons (up close and personal albeit) and a capacity of 450 pounds.

This elevator was all well and good, until my bride was in an accident five plus years ago leaving her as a paraplegic. (read more here https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/10/when-life-changes-in-the-blink-of-an-eye/). In order to get her from garage/shop level to living spaces, using our pneumatic elevator, it entailed us investing in an airline aisle wheelchair. I would physically pick her up from her manual chair, rotate 90 degrees and plant her on this aisle chair, then strap her on. All of this was a tight squeeze through the elevator door and she had to poke a button over her shoulder to get it to rise. Meanwhile, I would race upstairs to reverse transfer processes and get her into her power chair.

Eventually, we added a full sized elevator (story for another day).

Now PVE® (www.vacuumelevators.com) does provide a wheelchair accessible version with a 52-11/16” diameter. Downside is capacity is only 525 pounds and my wife’s power chair weighs in at close to 400 pounds without her!

Some things we found out in this process…..

These units are very fragile when being shipped. At factory, a ‘tipping indicator’ is placed on each crate, as handling direction is crucial. Somewhere along its journey, one of our crates was tipped and someone tried to remove the indicator and relocate it to hide what had occurred (and yes, there was damage).

Our builder had provided dimensions to the elevator company from top of garage/shop slab to top of living area floor. He must have been having a tape measuring challenged day – as our elevator stops about two inches too high.

Elevators must be run regularly. If it goes more than a few weeks without being used, it loses its ability to suction and takes some time and effort to get it operational again.

Considering a multi-story barndominium? If so, these pneumatic elevators might be a wise upfront investment. If we were to do it again from scratch, I would have opted for a wheelchair accessible unit.

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes and tagged shouse, stairs rise, shop house, pneumatic elevator, airline aisle wheelchair, barndominium on February 4, 2021 by admin.

Barndominium on Expansive Soils

Post Frame Barndominium Building on Expansive Soils.

When I was a 1990’s post frame building contractor we trained our sales team to be diligent in looking at soil cuts near where our potential clients were considering erecting new post frame buildings. These cuts could tell us much about what was happening below the surface and potentially impacting digging conditions and ultimately performance of a new building.

Reader STACY in BERTHOUD writes:

“Hello.

My wife and I are looking at building a pretty large Barndominium on some lake front land that we have owned for more than 20 years but we are on expansive (high clay content) with a tested swell of 8-9%.

Background Info:

The house portion would be approximately 2800 sq’ and the shop/garage portion is about 8000 square feet. The shop portion will store vehicles, Large RV, boats and leave recreational space for gym, Pickleball Court and an enclosed area for dusty work such as wood working and metal fabrication.

We have a Morton out building there currently that is 42/75 with a fair amount of slab cracking. Although not hindered the function for a non heated barn, I would want the home to perform better. No Over Excavation was done but probably should have been.

I cannot seem to find advice on if this is doable with a pole barn structure given the soils. They feel that deep cassions setting on a full perimeter grade beam is required which will totally blow the budget on a structure this size. I am trying to find out if this is true or is there a Over Excavation strategy that would be reasonable and how that perimeter detail might look for a tight, well insulated structure?

Any advice or specialist you could point me towards is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

My lovely bride and I live in an 8000 square foot, 44 foot tall post frame shop/house in NE South Dakota (we look across Lake Traverse at Minnesota). Minnesota is known as the land of 10,000 lakes. Many of these lakes resulted from glacial erosion causing physical and chemical changes creating small particles required to form clay soil. This clay sediment is both very fertile and makes for excellent lake bottoms!

Our particular building site had significant amounts of clay and we chose to excavate it out (over excavate) and replace with compactable fill. Our site is also built up, so any rain or snowmelt runs away from our home. After 15 years of service we have only minimal hairline cracks in our slab on grade – even though we have been through winters of seven feet of frost! Our building has no perimeter grade beams and our columns are embedded in concrete six feet below grade.

Most Building Departments in your area require engineered soils reports prior to construction. A qualified geotechnical engineer can determine a best course of action to avoid or limit adverse reactions from clay soils.

Here is some further reading: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/06/post-frame-construction-on-clay-soils/

and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/07/barndominium-on-expansive-soils/

This entry was posted in Shouse, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning, Concrete, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium, Shouse and tagged expansive soils, over excavation, cassions, compactable fill, engineered soils report, Morton Buildings, barndominium on January 29, 2021 by admin.

Wood I-Joists for Your Barndominium

With many barndominiums being multi-storied, or at least having lofts or mezzanines, there are several methods of structural support. These would include dimensional lumber, wood trusses and I-joists.

In our own post frame barndominium, we utilized I-joists as rafters for both side sheds. They are also floor joists for my lovely bride’s mezzanine sewing loft – a partial third floor above our master bedroom.

When I began my prefabricated metal connector plated wood truss career back in 1977, one of my first jobs was cutting webs for wood floor trusses. Then, wood floor trusses were a fairly new concept, they allowed for much longer clearspans than dimensional lumber, were consistent in size and made for very fast framing.

Floor trusses were (and are) in direct competition with I-joists. I-joists were invented in 1969 and are engineered wood products used for both floors and roofs. They have a great deal of strength in relationship to size and weight.

I-joists require correct installation – meaning a requirement for more experience and training than a dimensional lumber framed floor. Most common mistake is misplacing or improperly sizing holes in OSB (Oriented Strand Board) webs. This can compromise I-joist strength, potentially leading to structural failure. Other common installation mistakes include cutting or chiseling flanges, improperly size joist hangers, improper nailing and wrong sized nails. Rim joists much also match I-joist size as mismatches can strain joists. When an I-joist crosses a main beam, squash blocks must be installed alongside I-joists to transfer loads from I-joist to beam. Missed nails and glue setting too fast can lead to an uneven or squeaky floor. Field modification or repairs usually require manufacturer’s consultation.
I-joists need to be drilled for mechanical installations (e.g. HVAC, electrical, plumbing, etc.) leading to lost-time and effort as compared to open web floor trusses. in order to meet IRC (International Residential Code), I-joists must be covered on both sides of their full solid web with fire resistive chemicals or cladding. I-joists often do not perform well when exposed to fire or water. Thin I-joist webs can be relatively easily damaged or burned through by fire. OSB I-joist webs can be swelled by excessive moisture absorption causing web weakening. Top and bottom flanges (usually 2×4) can exhibit cupping, warping or splitting from excessive swelling due to moisture absorption.

For vibration control, both web stiffeners and blockings can be necessary to obtain desired floor stiffness.

Floor trusses have a distinct advantage for being mechanical equipment friendly. With the ability to design chase openings for ductwork through them, this is a big advantage. But let’s say there is a job site change and the truss company was not informed (never happens right?) and the ductwork must be shifted. Openings in webbing will allow for this adjustment to happen seamlessly. With this type of flexibility, who wouldn’t want floor trusses?

With I –Joists, holes you can actually cut into each joist can be pretty small. These holes also must follow certain parameters. Sometimes this is very limiting and you must stay within certain locations to place holes. Let’s not forget if you cut into a flange, a big no-no, you’re going to need a new joist.

Floor trusses can clear-span with the same floor ratings much further than any I-Joist product. This is very beneficial to frugal barndominium builders and owners out there. Let’s face it though; aren’t we all trying to be more frugal with everything we do? Who wants to put in an extra steel beam and posts or 3-4ply LVL to carry some “I’s” those extra 3’ or 4’ because their span rating is good for distance required? Those beams could add up to several hundred (even thousands) of dollars.

I-Joists may need an increased depth or decreased spacing to span very same distances, using very same design criteria. Bridging and blocking can be increased to “shore” up a floor, but this runs a risk of them being omitted.

In my mind, floor trusses are a winning answer. Are they for you?

This entry was posted in Lumber, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Design, Barndominium, About The Pole Barn Guru, Shouse, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Pole Barn Homes and tagged International Residential Code, wood cladding, I joists, web stiffeners, OSB I-joist webs, IRC, wood webs, flanges, joist hangers, rim joists, barndominium, squash blocks, wood beams on January 21, 2021 by admin.

Wide Clearspan Barndominium Floors

“First off, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience in the blog and answering questions regarding post frame construction with us laymen!
It is very educational and enlightening.

Kicking around ideas currently. Have a 50ish x 80ish building in mind.
And since you suggest working in 6 foot multiples. We’ll go with a 54′ x 84′ two story building.

If I free spanned the whole building at 12” centers I’d need 82 of them.
Working from an assumption they would have to be on 12” or 16” centers raises the below questions:

Hopefully not too lengthy.

Thanks in advance”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:
Thank you very much for your kind words, they are greatly appreciated.

This entry was posted in Trusses, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning, Shouse and tagged internal columns, barndominium, stud walls, Clear Span, floor trusses, clearspan, post frame barndominium on January 19, 2021 by admin.

Hemp Based Barndominium Insulation

I try to keep my eyes open for new products available for post frame barndominium construction. Hemp based insulation might be of interest to some.

Disclaimer: I have never used this product and it appears to currently be a challenge to source it.

Hempitecture, based in Ketchum, Idaho, in conjunction with their material processing and manufacturing partners, is proud to offer a product never before United States’ commercially available: a hemp fiber based insulation product called HempWool.

HempWool is an environmentally friendly insulation product. It can be used in your home or commercial building project. HempWool is composed of 92% industrial hemp fiber, specifically processed as a component for HempWool. HempWool meets Class A fire requirements, is non-toxic, and contributes to a healthy home.

Why not use FiberGlass or similar products when insulating your new barndominium? Ask any builder or insulation installer if they like working with fiberglass. Without a doubt, most will tell you working with fiberglass is an unpleasant experience. This is because fibers comprising fiberglass insulation are abrasive. They irritate skin, leaving itchy rashes if skin comes in contact. Breathing fiberglass into your lungs is believed to be cancer-causing. Despite this, fiberglass remains a primary choice for insulating barndominiums because it is cheap and easy to work with.

Healthy homes are more important than ever. We’re spending a lot of time indoors (especially in 2020), and materials surrounding us matter. Why should we wrap our homes in a blanket of material known to cause health complications, and can’t even be handled without covering all of your skin? HempWool changes all of this with a healthy, non-abrasive approach to insulation.

HempWool can be handled without gloves and with skin exposed because it is non-abrasive. Hemp fiber itself is highly absorbent, leading to one of HempWool’s greatest attributes; vapor permeability. Hempitecture HempWool insulation is a vapor permeable material; moisture can move through HempWool and be adsorbed by its fibers, with no threat of degradation or mold to itself. This all translates to thermal comfort; HempWool makes your barndominium feel better.

Not only will HempWool make your home feel better, it will make it perform better. At R3.7/inch, HempWool has insulation properties rivaling fiberglass and other conventional insulation materials. Various depths of HempWool are suited to meet your structural framing members, i.e: 2×4 or 2×6 studs. Whether you’re framing 24″ OC or 16″ OC, HempWool is cut to fit with nothing but pressure. HempWool will hold itself in place because it’s batts spring-like quality.

Best I can gather on price, currently it runs about double what fiberglass insulations cost. If anyone has used these products, I am interested in your feedback. some.

Disclaimer: I have never used this product and it appears to currently be a challenge to source it.

This entry was posted in Budget, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Shouse, Insulation, Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Barn Planning and tagged barndominium, HempWool, hemp fiber, insulation, fiberglass on January 5, 2021 by admin.

Designing a Dream Barndominium Loft

Untitled design – 1

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes and tagged dimensional lumber, barn home, free standing stairs, gable endwall, barndominium, floor joists, floor trusses on November 24, 2020 by admin.

What Hansen Pole Buildings Offers for Prospective Barndominium Owners

What Hansen Pole Buildings Offers for Prospective Barndominium Owners

If you are considering building a barndominium or shouse (shop/house), whether DIY or with a contractor’s involvement, there is one very important question to ask:

“Do you personally live in a barndominium?”

If you do not receive a resounding, “YES” for an answer, you may want to rethink your choice.

My lovely bride and I have lived in our Hansen Pole Building along South Dakota’s Lake Traverse for 15 years now. This being my third personal barndominium, dating back some thirty years, I can speak with experience few others can.

Hansen Vision At Hansen Pole Buildings, we are literally “All About the Building” and we strive to provide “The Ultimate Post Frame Building Experience™”. Every single one of our fully engineered post frame buildings is custom designed to best fit our client’s wants and needs. Rarely will we be least expensive, however we will always provide a best value solution.

This process ideally begins in infancy stages, with a determination of fiscal reality – highly tempered by individual tastes and how much effort one is willing or able to put into their new home. Those willing to be their own General Contractors can plan upon saving roughly 25% over hiring a builder to turn key and 50% for DIYing as much as possible. We have found any physically capable person, who is willing to read step-by-step directions in English can successfully erect their own beautiful building, and many do. We have even had septuagenarian couples do their own construction!

Most often a DIY barndominium turns out with better results than one could ever hire done – because you truly care about how it turns out.

Once a budget has been established, it is time to ‘find the dirt’. Without knowing where your barndominium will be located, it is impossible and impractical to determine how your new home should be planned. Important aspects such as direction of access, curb appeal and views play into a well thought out design. Directional orientation is important, with heat loss or gain determined by location and number of windows, as well as design of shading from overhangs. Slope of site determines needs for significant grade work or placing upon a full or partial basement or crawl space.

Moving closer to actuality we provide direction and encouragement in determining your family’s needed spaces, sizes and orientation to each other. Work from your home’s inside rather than trying to fit what your needs are into some pre-ordained space. With this information in hand, we offer a potentially free, professional floor plan and building elevation service to take all of your ideas, wants and needs and actually craft a floor plan best melding them with realities of construction.

Whether you have utilized our plan service, or have a plan of your own, your Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer will work directly with you to make recommendations to provide a home most practical for you. You have total choice over a virtually unlimited number of aspects. Your being directly involved eliminates builders taking advantage of you in order to pad their bottom line. Hansen Pole Buildings does have a unique Instant Pricing™ system, allowing your Building Designer to make changes and have a near instantaneous answer as to what your investment will be as various dimensional and feature changes are contemplated.

We are very conscious about design for energy efficiency. Power is unlikely to ever become less expensive, so getting at or as close as possible to a net zero design is paramount.

Need financing for your new barndominium? We work with several lenders who actually understand post frame barndominiums and can assist with this phase.

After your building order has been placed, it moves from your Building Designer’s desk to our design team. Before going to one of our skilled draftspeople every building comes across my desk for personal review – mostly in an aspect of what will or will not work structurally, Building Code compliance and how to increase building efficiency without compromising functionality.

Once your structural building plans are completed, you get to review them for accuracy prior to our independent Registered Professional Engineer going over every member and connection as a final assurance of structural soundness. Only after all of these steps have been completed are your engineer sealed plans, along with verifying structural calculations, sent to you to acquire necessary building permits.

Even if your jurisdiction does not require building permits, structural plan reviews or do inspections, having engineer sealed plans is your assurance of structural adequacy. There are insurance companies who give discounts to those who build fully engineered homes, so ask your agent for yours.

You have access through our online portal to follow your building’s process, reschedule build dates, report any damaged or missing materials, as well as requesting unlimited technical support from those who have actually built post frame buildings.

Even after your barndominum is complete and you have sent us digital photos of your beautiful new home, our commitment to you does not end. Hansen Pole Buildings provides a Limited Lifetime Structural warranty covering your home and regardless of how many years you have had your building, should you have questions or concerns, we are available to assist.

This entry was posted in Building Interior, Shouse, About The Pole Barn Guru, Budget, Building Overhangs, Professional Engineer, Building Department, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Pole Building Siding, Post Frame Home, Building Colors, Barndominium and tagged curb appeal, Limited Lifetime structural warranty, overhangs, DIY pole buildings, barndominium, the ultimate post frame experience, crawl space, general contractor, basement on November 12, 2020 by admin.

How to Minimize Possible Hail Damage

Welcome back from Friday’s article. As a fan of long suffering professional sports teams (Vikings, Twins, Mariners) I had the opportunity to watch Randy Johnson’s epic relief appearance in game 5 of 1995’s ALDS.

Randy also helped Geico sell some insurance with this snowball (not quite a baseball sized hail chunk): https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=crmas&p=randy+Johnson+throwing+snowball+commercial#id=1&vid=2f0c9212ab8080ee8ad0b4b53361f2a3&action=click

Randy was clocked throwing a 5.25 ounce baseball at up to 102 mph (miles per hour). A 1-1/2 pound hailstone will travel at speeds up to 105 mph – basically impacting whatever is in its way with nearly 3-1/2 times the force of a Randy Johnson fastball!

At this point in time, there is no solution providing a completely hail resistant roofing solution. No traditional roofing materials can come away from these types of hail stones without being dented or damaged. While there are suitable measures able to be taken to prevent damages from most hailstorms, largest hailstones will cause damage to even the most durable of roofing systems.

In order to understand how well a roofing material will hold up against hail, it is first important to understand how these materials are judged. A common test for measuring roofing material effectiveness against hail damage would be UL 2218: Standard for Impact Resistance of Prepared Roof Covering Materials. This test uses a steel ball to impact various locations on a particular assembly including edges, seams or unsupported joints or sections. While this test provides maybe a best gauge of how a roof will hold up against a hail storm, a steel ball is not a hailstone, and even this extensive test does not guarantee a material or product will hold up against a severe hail storm.

Fortunately, baseball-sized hailstones don’t happen every day. In a majority of instances, a Class 4 UL 2218 rating will be sufficient in protecting your barndominium from roof penetration due to a hail storm. A Class 4 test involves a steel ball weighing 1-2 pounds being dropped from a height of 12 to 20 feet on an assembly’s same location. This is considered by most professionals (and insurance companies) as the highest level of protection a roof covering material can provide.

While UL 2218 (and other testing standards) measures abilities of a material to stand up to rips, tears, holes and penetrating issues, it does not consider a material’s visual appearance once testing is complete. In other words, your roof may still be 100% structurally sound after a severe hail storm, but could also look like someone took a baseball bat to every inch of your roof. Beyond a visual nuisance, some insurance companies who provide a discount for metal roofing will not cover cosmetic damage caused by hail as your roof is still intact and structurally sound.

To minimize cosmetic damage, take into account panel design. Many standing seam metal roofs have large, flat surfaces showing smaller imperfections due to their smooth uniform appearance. Breaking up a standing seam panel with striations or ribs will help minimize visual impact of dents, as well as help with expansion and contraction in areas prone to temperature swings.

A common misconception when it comes to protecting a structure against hail damage is steel roofing thickness. While thicker steel can be better at preventing dents and surface damage, provided it is not softer, it is also often less flexible than a thinner material. Thinner steel panels may dent easier, but are less likely to tear. While most metal panels ranging from 22 to 29 gauge steel offer a relatively similar level of protection, there is a difference in how each thickness will perform against different aspects of a hail impact.

An important factor in choosing a roofing envelope able to hold up to most hail storms includes selecting the right underlayment material. Like visible roof coverings, underlayment materials are also tested for impacts. Often people spend a significant amount of time carefully choosing their roof system covering, without ever considering this second layer of defense. Underlayments can not only help protect your barndominium from impact, but are also tested for water, air and fire ratings.

Ultimately there are a number of factors to consider when choosing a roof to help hold up against severe hail storms. Choosing the right materials and speaking to your insurance company about actual coverage of your plan are among the most important choices to make.

Tips for designing a hail resistant roofing include maintaining a minimum roof slope of 6:12 and/or using roof decking (well supported plywood sheathing) and a tested underlayment.

Do your research – speak to professionals about your options, and make decisions on those factors most meaningful to you and your new barndominium.

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Roofing Materials, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged 29 gauge steel, barndominium, standing seam metal, roof underlayment, underlayment, hailstone, hail storm, roofing material, UL2218 on November 10, 2020 by admin.

Blower Door Testing Your New Barndominium Part II

Continued from yesterday’s blog;

Aside from code compliance or indoor air quality concerns, another reason to get a blower door test is to properly size your furnace or air conditioner. How leaky or tight your barndominium is can change how much heating/humidification or cooling/dehumidification you need. This then ties into how carefully your mechanical system is designed. If in doubt, ask your HVAC designer whether and how they use air leakage metrics in their load calculations.

Envelope leakage is measured in terms of air volume per time unit or CFM (cubic feet of air per minute). From this number, a standard metric called ACH50 (air changes per hour at a 50 pascal standard test pressure) is calculated. ACH50 indicates how many times building interior air volume changes with outside air under test conditions, correlating to air leakage under normal or “natural” conditions. This ACH50 number is how leakage across different homes is compared. CFM per floor area square foot and CFM per building envelope square foot may also be used.

Blower door testing is often done near the building process, when paint is done, doors and windows are in place, and all weather stripping is installed.

This is a great time to find out your final numbers, but not such a great time to try and fix any issues. Doing leakage testing at different construction stages can help diagnose issues and fix them while the primary air barrier is still accessible. Caveat to this early testing is all window or door openings must be sealed, otherwise you won’t be able to pressurize the building enough to look for leaks.

To find someone to conduct blower door testing Google for a testing company using keywords such as: energy code testing, HERS Rater, or energy auditor. Ideally, you’ll find someone who is RESNET- or BPI-certified, meaning they should have right equipment and experience to help get a leakage number and also identify where leakage is coming from.

One can even make their own equipment with a box fan or two, and some ISO board to seal up the door opening. This will not get any actual leakage numbers, but it can go a long way in helping find leaks. When pulling air in through leaks by blowing air out of your barndominium, you can usually feel where air is coming in. Depending on temperature difference, you might also be able to see it with an infrared (IR) camera. Another great tool to use is a theatrical fogger to help make air movement visible.

Energy amount saved by air-sealing your barndominium depends on many factors: what climate zone you live in, interior temperature, wind speeds, etc. International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) required a 7 ACH50 building envelope leakage in 2009, but now 2018 code requires 3 and 5 ACH50 in most areas. This downward trend in leakage requirements indicates building codes will continue to get more stringent over time as builders get used to these standards, and as products and technologies improve. Achieving a 3-5 ACH50 is more than doable. These days, Passive House projects are required to achieve 0.6 ACH50. All of this is done to save energy on a large scale.

This entry was posted in Building Department, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Pole Building Doors, Windows, Barndominium, Shouse, Shouse, Pole Barn Design and tagged indoor air quality, air leakage metrics, cubic feet of air per minute, ACH50, blower door testing, energy code testing, barndominium, HE, CFM, HERS Rater, International Energy Conservation Code on October 23, 2020 by admin.

Busting Post Frame Barndominium Myths

Yep, I have been web surfing again and I came across a stick frame building contractor’s website who obviously either doesn’t understand fully engineered post frame construction, or just frankly doesn’t care to add it to his arsenal of design solutions. My comments are in italics.

MYTH #1. MOST BANKS WON’T OFFER CONSTRUCTION LOANS ON POST FRAME POLE BARN HOUSES.
Many lenders refrain from offering traditional mortgages for pole barn homes. For example, Freddie Mac and Fannie Mae will not offer these loans at all.
The small percentage of entities that do offer mortgages for pole barn homes will typically have much higher requirements, because they’ll be using internal money to finance it.
They’ll likely require a 30% down payment (and oftentimes, more than this).

In reality, a fully engineered post frame building is no different than any other wood frame steel roofed and sided home and any lender will approve a mortgage for one as long as you do not use terms like “barndominium”, “pole barn house”, “post frame house”, etc. Apply the K-I-S-S method (Keep It Simple Stupid) and refer to it only as being a fully engineered, custom designed, wood frame home with steel roofing and siding. Period and 100% factual.

But won’t my lender send out engineers and inspectors who will “catch” me building a barndominium, shouse or post frame home? No. Your lender will be concerned about progress, not how you are getting there.

Before going to a lender you will need a place to build (land), blueprints (floor plans and elevations) and a budget (or contract subject to finance approval with a builder).

MYTH #2. THERE ARE NO FOOTERS IN POST FRAMES
Without having footers to protect the concrete slab from freezing, there is the potential that the concrete slab can move or heave around the edges in cold weather. In turn, this can shift interior walls, resulting in damage to drywall finishes and trim.
If you do go with post frame construction, you will have to add footers to stay in code compliance of the IRC. This will add that cost back into the total price of the home.

Your fully engineered post frame home is 100% Building Code Compliant and most typically has pressure preservative treated columns embedded in ground with both concrete footings and bottom collars. Alternatively your home can be mounted to steel brackets set in concrete piers.

Either of these are designed to extend to or below frost lines or are frost protected by use of insulation. Footers themselves do not protect a concrete slab from freezing and heaving, using rigid insulation around slab perimeters is required for either stick frame or post frame. With fully engineered post frame, there is no need to incorporate thickened slab edges or continuous concrete footings and foundations.

MYTH #3. POST FRAMES WILL HAVE LARGER SPANS IN THE ROOF TRUSSES
This is an issue because they’ll have to be filled in before you can hang the drywall.

If you hang drywall “as is,” it will all sag over time, causing structural damage (and a pain in your wallet). Adding this extra framing after the fact will add to the total price tag again.

Most cost effectively your fully engineered post frame building will have double trusses every 10 to 12 feet. If you desire to insulate at ceiling lines, ceiling joists are placed every two feet to adequately support drywall. This combination of double trusses and ceiling joists will still be less expensive than conventional stick framing’s trusses every two feet with structural headers required in walls. By widely spacing trusses, it allows for greater flexibility in locating doors and windows in exterior walls.

MYTH #4. EXTRA FRAMING BETWEEN THE POSTS WILL BE NEEDED
As opposed to traditional wall building, you’ll have to build the walls between the posts after you build on the post frames. This is an added cost to the post frame structure that has already been built.

We can tell this builder has never built (or probably seen) a fully engineered post frame building with bookshelf girts every two feet. All exterior wall framing is taken care of at initial installation, you get a deeper insulation cavity and a better surface to drywall. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/11-reasons-post-frame-commercial-girted-walls-are-best-for-drywall/

MYTH #5. INSULATION COSTS ARE HIGHER
Your pole barn home will require more insulation on a post frame wall because the walls are thicker than the typical two-by-four construction. Therefore, the cost of insulation will be higher to fill this cavity.

Would you really want an electric bill based off of R-13 insulation in a two-by-four exterior wall? Engineered post frame construction allows for thicker insulation cavities – reducing your energy costs for your barndominium’s lifespan.

MYTH #6. POST FRAME CONSTRUCTION IS TYPICALLY NOT USED WITH BASEMENTS.
Post frame construction is not very conducive when building on a basement, as the basement walls will be made from poured concrete. Trying to adapt a post frame construction to a basement will end up with higher costs than traditional home building techniques. The bottom line: If you want a home with a basement, post frame construction is not the best choice.

Your fully engineered post frame home can easily be engineered to attach to a concrete basement foundation, ICFs or even incorporated into a Permanent Wood Foundation, at similar or lower costs than stick frame.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Design, Pole Building Comparisons, Barndominium, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Concrete, Footings, Shouse, Budget and tagged footers, post frame barndominium, concrete footers, construction loan, concrete piers, double trusses, building code compliant, steel brackets, barndominium on October 20, 2020 by admin.

Kitchens for the Handicapped

Today’s blog courtesy of J.A. Hansen, co-owner of Hansen Buildings

OK, Mike the Pole Barn Guru asked me to write about kitchens, so here goes.

Seven years ago (give or take a couple) Mike and I got the new custom made cupboards for our kitchen and there were LOTS of cupboards. When my four sons saw them they gave Mike and I a bad time over having “too many”. Never did I expect to zoom ahead to 2020 and find my cupboards would be full to overflowing. Not to mention we have a 5′ x 12′ walk in pantry off the entry door to our 2400 square foot living space. We should have built more!

Five years ago on the 26th of September my motorcycle and I went over the edge of a ravine off the I-90 interstate on our way back from South Dakota to Spokane, WA where we had our principle residence. I became a T-6 Spinal Cord Injury, along with most of the ribs on my right side broken. Previous to this I never would have guessed in a million years I’d end up in a wheelchair.

My new “ride” became a purple (my tribute to the MN Vikings) M300 power wheelchair. We soon figured out many of the cupboards we had specially designed for us would be a blessing despite us not having designed them for me being in a wheelchair.

What we did right.

In the center of the kitchen is a 4′ x 8′ island. It has cut-outs for Mike and to sit up to the island where we spend most of our meals. The cut-outs were extra wide, making it easy for me to maneuver my chair into the slot and elevate my chair to sit right up to the island. Two things I did for my new power wheelchair that affords me more independence in the kitchen. As I mentioned, I can elevate my chair to reach the tall island height. My chair can elevate 14″ which is a great asset in reaching cupboard shelves and fridge/freezer shelves. My chair can also turn “on a dime” making it easy to reverse directions in the middle of any aisleway.

Most of the aisle-ways are wide, affording me the ability to turn a complete circle in any space between the cupboards and the island without scratching any of the beautiful oak.

The fridge and freezer are “all fridge” and “all freezer” which gives us more storage space within each of them. We have them elevated on pedestals a foot off the floor, giving me ample room to store items on the bottom two shelves that mostly pertain to me. They are at the perfect height for me in my wheelchair. And again, I can elevate my chair 14″ to reach all the way up to the top shelf!

The pantry has all roll out shelves, so I can reach any item in the bottom three shelves which are used most often. Lesser used items are on the top shelf, which I can access with elevation of my chair.

Both dishwashers (yes, Mike insisted on two, to which I am eternally grateful) are also up on a pedestal, giving me easy reach into the bottom and top racks. I’ll admit I don’t use the dishwashers very often. Mike and I have division of labor, he does the dishwashers and I do the laundry. No fights over loading the dishwasher or how to fold the towels!

The microwaves, again two for Mike’s design, were originally to be on shelves up above the countertop. I would not have been able to reach them. Mine ended up on the counter where I can easily access it.

What we could have done better.

The kitchen sink should have been designed with it being open underneath for me to wheel under and access the faucets. I use a spatula to turn the water off and on, which is not the worst thing in the world. Aesthetically I would not have liked seeing the plumbing below the sink. So for me, I like it just the way it is. With my chair elevated a foot or more, I can easily access both sides of the double sink. We did have the drinking water faucet installed into the side of the sink, where I can easily turn it on and off. The grand-kids like having it closer as well, so there is no need for a stool….which would have been in the way of my chair.

Another thing I would have liked was a trash compactor. We had one in our house in Spokane and loved it. It was just an oversight on our part.

If you are designing your barndominium home for a wheelchair, with or without power, make all your openings and aisleways 40″ or wider. You will be glad you did!

Most of the design features of our kitchen were done before my accident and pre-wheelchair. I am thankful for the independence allowing me to function as well as any non-disabled person. This morning I baked three different kinds of bread: coconut cream, lemon poppyseed and French vanilla with nuts. I finished off with canning four quarts of tomatoes. l

The best part is…Mike gets to do the baking dishes!

This entry was posted in Uncategorized, About The Pole Barn Guru, Barndominium, Shouse and tagged aisleway, aisleway size, barndominium, kitchen island, power wheelchair on September 15, 2020 by admin.

Integral Condensation Control

With steel roofing for barndominiums, shouses and post frame (pole) buildings comes condensation.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Steel Roofing & Siding, Barndominium, Roofing Materials, Shouse and tagged hydrophilic, vapor barrier, condensation, barndominium, thermal break, I.C.C., reflective radiant barrier, shouse on September 3, 2020 by admin.

Struggles to Define What a House Should Look Like

With barndominiums, shouses and post frame homes rising in popularity, jurisdictions are struggling to define what a house should look like.

To follow is an article by Arielle Breen in August 13, 2020’s Manistee, Michigan News Advocate detailing their city’s challenges.

“Does the building plan look like a pole barn or a house?

The answer is that it does not matter what it looks like since a new house in Manistee does not have a detailed design guideline to define what a house looks like — or what the city’s ordinance actually means when it refers to a house needing to fit into “the character of its neighborhood.”

But Manistee City Planning Commission may be looking at creating specific standards for the look of new houses built in the city in the future.

Mike Szokola, Manistee County planner, said if a person wants to build a house in the city and meets criteria such as minimum height and setback requirements, then zoning permits can not be declined as the current ordinance reads.

“At no point in time do I get to ask them ‘What’s it made out of’ (or) ‘How many windows does it have,’” Szokola said at the last Manistee City Planning Commission meeting while showing an example of a home proposed on Ninth Street.

He said there are no design standards within the city’s ordinance that would prevent that style of house.

The topic was brought up at the Aug. 6 meeting after Szokola reported he had seen more than one house come through requesting permits in which the house didn’t quite fit with what a typical house in the area might look like.

Members stated that the house resembled a pole barn structure one might see in rural areas outside of the city.

Rob Carson, Manistee County Planning director, said at the meeting that a lot of communities have design guidelines that stipulate aspects such as how many windows a home needs to have and what types of siding are appropriate.

“This is the second building that we’ve received a permit for in less than a year that is going to strike up some controversy in these neighborhoods,” Carson said at the meeting. “When this came in and Mike brought it to me, I was concerned but I said ‘There’s nothing we can do to stop it right now.’ And that’s what the primary issue is.”

While planning commission members said there is a need to have some sort of guideline, they were also hesitant about being strict with appearance requirements in any ordinance they may pursue.

Planning commission member Shelly Memberto said as a property owner she tends to be careful about design.

“I live in probably one of the oldest houses in the city. And I’m sure that the owner, when the house submitted across the street from me which is probably now 80 years old today, they probably hated visually how it looked,” Memberto said. “It didn’t fit in with the character 140 years ago, but maybe it did 60 years after that.

“I don’t know that 20 years from now every house isn’t going to look like this (Ninth Street house example,)” she said.

Carson expressed concern that once approvals for houses go through that are not in character, they could “trigger” more cases as the city has “a whole lot of new visitors.”

“Somebody may say ‘Hey, look there is a pole barn someone let them put up. It’s got a loft in it, it’s separated from the vehicle space. That’s what we want because we’re only here two months of the year,’” Carson said.

He said the commission could find a “happy medium that doesn’t go overboard on regulation but would appease the public and the residents of the city.”

Carson said he would gather several examples of ordinances the commission could consider and discuss at an upcoming meeting that would show the less stringent and more strict options available if the commission wished to proceed with a design guideline ordinance.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru comments:

Ultimately, Planning Departments have every right to enforce aesthetic ordinances – as long as they are applied universally to all types of structural systems within a given occupancy classification (such as R-3 residential). What they cannot do is to regulate whether a Code conforming structural system may or may not be used. Should your jurisdiction try to prevent you from constructing a fully engineered post frame home – send me a copy of their written ordinance (not just anecdotal evidence) and I will go wage war for you.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design, Building Styles and Designs, Shouse, Building Department, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning and tagged planning department, barndominium, International Residential Code, shouse, Manistee City Planning Commission, pole barn on August 20, 2020 by admin.

Planning for a Dogtrot Barndominium

Planning for a Dogtrot Barndominium

Reader JIM in HOLIDAY writes:

Dear sir,

I have scoured your site as best I can in the past few weeks and I only see one very brief mention on the “Blower Door Test” and some other articles on elevated wood flooring. These are the two main issues I am currently working on but I will try to briefly give you my current situation so you can offer any ideas. Your knowledge and website are invaluable and although we haven’t talked or met, I feel I can trust you to be honest.

A little background:

I have 5 acres of mostly wooded land in northern Florida approximately 30 miles SSW of Valdosta, Ga. I have the land approximately 50% paid off and owe about $18,000.

I currently have a 100amp temporary electric pole, a water well drilled and am installing a temporary septic system. All were permitted and approved except the temp septic since it is being constructed. I also have a 12×16 single pitch roof gazebo, permitted and approved, an engineer stamped 12×16 s-type quonset hut shed, a 10×12 (no permit needed) shed and an 8×30 old refurbished FEMA trailer that we can stay in when we are there to work. All are paid in full.

I am required to have a minimum of “1200 sq ft of heated living area” for a residence due to a covenant/restriction in the deed. The land is approximately 4 hours from my current home.

I would like a 30 to 36 inch raised wooden floor in the residence. My budget is on the lower end since I’m on a retirement income. I will be the general contractor (no experience) and I have two sons in the construction business with 15 to 20 years experience. My oldest is a roofer but currently owns his own handyman business so he either does it all or knows people who can do what I need. My youngest is a framing carpenter who also has connections.

I feel comfortable about their abilities and their friends and co-workers being able to get this done for me. I want all the floors raised as I plan to eventually connect all the buildings with a continuous porch and the house with a wrap around deck the same height. When completed the area will have the house and all the buildings in a “U” configuration that is approximately 250 ft by 250 ft. There is a possibility, and room for, another 1200 square foot residence next to the first but both buildings would have to be connected, making it one residence since I am only allowed one residence on my 5 acres.

Now that you have the general, current, status of where I am, I am trying to decide on the 1200 sq ft residence. First and foremost, my building inspector and I don’t always see eye to eye. He says that he has yet to find a metal building that will pass the now nationwide mandate for every new residence to pass a “blower door test” and my residence will not be approved unless it does. He has no issue with a raised wood floor but feels that poles in the ground may not be sufficient due to the hurricane rating for winds. Uplift from winds will require not only cement but screw in tie downs like on a mobile home, which I was required to do on the other, smaller buildings.

Can you please explain and elaborate on a Hansen pole residence of around 1200 sq ft and the blower door test and also the raised buildings and floors and uplift. Any other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated.

My main goal is to get the needed, but bare minimum 1200 sq ft residence as soon as possible so I can get my certificate of occupancy and move there and then complete the interior of the first building. Then apply for a permit to build an attached second building of the same size and design as the first to double my space. I don’t know if this can be done but obviously living there will accelerate my plans rather than driving 4 hours, every 2 or 3 weeks, spending 2 or 3 days working and driving back. My wife and I seem to like the “dog trot” style building but I don’t know if this can be done one building at a time.

Thank you for your time and ideas on this.

Jim

I am in somewhat of a rush to make a decision on what residence to focus on so an email reply to xxxx@xxxxx.com as soon as you can would be appreciated. Hopefully this will be of interest to others and may be published in your blog in the future.

Again thank you for such dedication to informing everyone who is trying to live their dreams.

Tune in tomorrow for Mike’s response!

This entry was posted in Uncategorized and tagged septic system, dogtrot building, dogtrot barndominium, FEMA, blower door test, quonset hut, general contractor, gazebo, barndominium on August 11, 2020 by admin.

Working With Your Barndominium Subs

Working With Your Barndominium Subs

If you get along well with everyone at all times, you may not need to read this article. But if you occasionally run into conflicts, read them carefully. Sometimes the fault may be yours.

At this point you’ve selected your subcontractors. You’ve checked them out and are satisfied they are honest, trustworthy, and experts in their fields.

Now let them work. Don’t try to supervise every blow of a hammer or placement of every stud. These guys are professionals and they know more about their trades than you do, and probably, if they came to you well recommended, they take pride in their work. Let them do it.

And, more emphatically, don’t try to tell your subcontractors their jobs just because you have read my articles. You’ll get good work out of your subs if they understand you realize they know their jobs, and you’re depending on them for good advice and quality work.

When a subcontractor’s work is completed, when work looks good, and when relevant inspections have checked out, make sure to pay contracted amounts promptly. A hearty thank you is also in order. Subcontractors who get treated right throughout your job and afterward will do a better job for you, and they’ll come back when you build your next barndominium. And chances are you will build another.

Paying Your Subcontractors

When you sign your contract with your erector, you will agree on a contract price for work as outlined. It is usually based on X number of dollars per square foot of heated area and X number of dollars per square foot of under roof, such as garages, porches, etc. Prices will vary with geographic area and job complexity.

Never pay a subcontractor for work not done, for incomplete work, or for an unsatisfactory job. Never pay a Subcontractor in advance. Paying in advance destroys incentive to get your job done ahead of other jobs. Paying in advance could result in a financial loss to you if a subcontractor is incapacitated in some manner. I don’t know anybody who gets paid in advance in any job field. If a subcontractor says he (or she) needs money to get materials, etc., find somebody else, or arrange to order and pay for materials yourself.

Work out a schedule of payment with your subs. Some subs may require draws, or partial payments, as work progresses. This should be discussed before work begins. Don’t be shy about it. They are accustomed to discussing such matters. It is all right to pay a draw, but never pay for more than work already done. For work expected to be completed within seven to 10 days of beginning, draws are typically unnecessary.

Plumbers and electricians usually get 60 percent of their total contract price when their rough-in work has been completed and inspected. Heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning rough-in payments depend on installation of equipment such as furnaces. If payment is just for duct work and some low-voltage wiring, 20 percent of total should suffice. If a furnace had to be installed during rough-in, add another 10 percent. Work out payment arrangements with subs before they start. Subcontractors almost always would like to get more money up front than they have in the job. Be sure there is enough money left in the total bid to complete the job if one of your subs goes broke while you are still building. It has happened. You don’t want to be stuck paying more to complete his job. You’ll be covered better if you don’t overpay him on his rough-in.

I seem to be saying the only way you’ll get your subcontractors to complete your job is if you owe them money. In many cases this is true, but in others it is only partially true. Some subcontractors would finish regardless. Often an issue is subcontractors have more than one job going at one time, and your main objective is to get your job finished before one is started after yours.

Make sure building inspections by your county or city are completed and work is approved before you make any payments at any phase of construction, other than partial draws. This is your assurance your job has been done, and done properly.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Building Contractor, Shouse, Building Interior, Budget, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Heating, Post Frame Home, Barndominium and tagged subcontractor, building contractor, subs, electrician, plumber, pole building barndominium, building erector, barndominium on July 30, 2020 by admin.

Where Future Barndominium Owners Come From

Where Future Barndominium Owners Come From

Mid-1650s, European rivals like England and France were busy dividing up a New World in North America.

France settled much of modern day Quebec in Canada, and England initially settled mid-Atlantic colonies.

English and French didn’t have much in common, and they were bitter rivals. But one thing they did agree on was their mutual hatred of Jewish people.

This was part of a long tradition in Europe. Jews had been expelled from England in 1290. France kicked out all its Jews on at least three occasions from 1192 to 1394.

Spain expelled its Jewish population the same year Columbus sailed West, and Portugal followed a few years later.

And still in 1650, Jews were banned from French and English colonies in North America.

Dutch colonial governor of “New Netherland”, also tried to turn away a group of Jewish refugees in 1654.

But West India Company, which essentially founded and ran New Netherland, intervened, and convinced him otherwise.

West India Company was not into “celebrating diversity.” It simply came down to economics. They wanted productive, talented people to settle their colony.

So West India Company gently reminded this Governor a large portion of their colony’s capital had come from Jewish investors.

A small tip of Manhatten settlement called New Amsterdam was especially tolerant.

It even welcomed free black men, a sadly radical, forward-thinking idea back then.

This was a time in history when the Catholic Church was suppressing science and philosophy across Europe, claiming all free thought to be heresy.

Ottoman Empire, in modern day Turkey, did this same thing in the name of Islam, going so far as to ban printing presses.

This type of restriction screamed opportunity in New Amsterdam. And it’s estimated this settlement produced about half of all 17th century published books.

This included works from Galileo, who spent the last decade of his life in the mid-1600s under house arrest in Italy, convicted of heresy by the Catholic church for his scientific theories.

A remarkable number of wealthy people in the early days of New Amsterdam started from nothing. They were the original self-made men and women of America.

New Amsterdam was later renamed New York, but it kept its free-wheeling, entrepreneurial culture.

It was these values of freedom, tolerance, and a full embrace of capitalism made it the world’s wealthiest city.

Today, New York City has totally reversed course. Its city’s leadership openly attacks talented people and productive businesses, and its politicians have embraced Marxism.

Just think back to what happened last year with Amazon’s headquarters, which would have brought 25,000 high paying jobs, and half a billion dollars in yearly tax revenue to the city.

It wasn’t just Amazon either– New York has been losing residents for years.

And this was before Covid-19. Then NYC became one of the world’s worst places to be locked down.

No freedom, no movement, and ridiculous rents for a shoebox apartment you couldn’t even leave.

Now New York City says it will not allow large events until at least October. Of course, this ban won’t apply to protesters and rioters– another great reason to get out of NYC.

Many people are working from home now anyway. So any work-related reason for staying in New York City has evaporated.

According to New York Times data, the richest neighborhoods in New York City saw an exodus of about 40% of residents since the pandemic hit.

(This is compared to lower and middle income neighborhoods, where fewer than 10% of residents have left.)

Overall about 5% of NYC’s population– over 400,000 people– have left since coronavirus lockdowns began– and most of those were high-income earners.

Manhattan housing vacancy is at a 14 year high, and new leases are down 62% from this time last year.

This is a major emerging trend. And not just for New York City.

Data from real estate website Redfin https://www.redfin.com/blog/april-may-2020-housing-migration-report/ does show New York City is number one destination people want out of right now. But San Francisco and Los Angeles aren’t far behind.

Redfin also reports record numbers of people searching for real estate outside of their current metro area. They’ve seen an 87% increase in people searching for homes in suburbs with a population smaller than 50,000.

Of course, a lot of these people are still on the fence. They are thinking and dreaming of escaping to a sunny state with no income tax, like Florida or Texas.

All it would take is a second wave of lockdowns to push them over the edge.

Right now, it makes a lot of sense. Anyone who can work from home is highly mobile. And moving to a new state can bring huge savings– lower taxes, lower cost of living, etc.

Fitting right into this potential huge savings is an ability to have affordable luxury in a new, custom designed post frame barndominium or shouse.

For more information, please visit www.HansenPoleBuildings.com, navigate to the upper right corner and click on SEARCH. Input any term you want more information on (e.g. BARNDOMINIUM) and click ENTER. Up will come a plethora of relevant articles for your reading pleasure.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Shouse, About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Buildings History and tagged barndominium, shouse, Jewish, New Netherland, West India Company, New Amsterdam, New York City, Covid-19 on July 22, 2020 by admin.

Lofty Barndominium Ambitions

Lofts and mezzanines (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/03/a-mezzanine-for-your-barndominium/) are popular inclusions in barndominiums. Even though my lovely bride and I have a mezzanine in our South Dakota shouse, they are not often truly practical from an accessibility or economics stance.

Reader Devin in Porun writes:

“I’m designing and building a 42’x50′ pole barn home with 10′ exterior walls. Viewing the plans from the front entry on the long wall, the left half of the interior will be framed rooms and the right half will be a large open kitchen/dining/living room space. I want to have an open loft over the half of the building that has interior framing. I want to be able to stand in the loft for at least 3-5′ each side of center, roughly 6′ of head space when finished. What style/type of trusses do you recommend and at what pitch? Would you use the same trusses all the way across the house, or use different ones for each half with the same exterior pitch? I like the high ceilings over the open portion, but would like to minimize the ceiling height to avoid heating and cooling unnecessary space. Thank you for your time!”

In order to have your greatest possible resale value, you should have any lofted space designed so as to be considered as habitable space. International Residential Code (IRC) Section R304.1 Minimum area. “Habitable rooms shall have a floor area of not less than 70 square feet. R304.2 Minimum dimensions. “Habitable rooms shall be not less than 7 feet in any horizontal dimensions. R304.3 Height effect on room area. “Portions of a room with a sloping ceiling measuring less than 5 feet or a furred ceiling measuring less than 7 feet from the finished floor to the finished ceiling shall not be considered as contributing to the minimum required habitable area for that room.” R305.1 Minimum height. “Habitable space, hallways and portions of basements containing these spaces shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet.”

This space will also need to be serviced by stairs, causing you to lose roughly 50 square feet of floor space.

Now, on to trusses – most prefabricated wood truss manufacturers are limited to building and shipping trusses up to 12′ in height. Allowing for truss top chord thickness, on a 42 foot span your maximum roof slope will most often be roughly 6.25/12. You can order “bonus room” trusses for this lofted area, and should be able to get 7’2″ from top of truss bottom chord to bottom of ‘cross tie’ (allowing for thickness of 3/4″ OSB or plywood subflooring and drywall for ceiling to attain a seven foot finished ceiling) in center 10-11 feet, with a maximum room width of roughly 14 feet. These trusses will come along with a healthy cost premium due to larger members required to make this happen and extra shipping costs. In your open portion, you could utilize scissors trusses to reduce heating and cooling as much space, while still giving a spacious cathedral look.

When all is said and done, you might want to consider a more ‘standard’ and economical roof slope of say 4/12 – and add to your ground level footprint rather than trying to gain expensive space in a loft. Keep in mind, this loft space is going to be difficult to move large pieces of furniture (couches, beds, dressers, etc.) in and out of without damage to walls or items being moved and it will prove mobility challenging (or impossible) for a certain population percentage.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Building Department, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Building Interior, Professional Engineer, Lofts and tagged International Residential Code, Pole barn home, loft, shouse, house loft, habitable space, minimum height code, barndominium, pole building home on July 16, 2020 by admin.

Planning Interior Accessibility in Barndominiums

Good Morning! This is Mike the Pole Barn Guru’s wife filling in for him as he takes a couple of well deserved days off from writing.

Not too long ago Mike wrote a blog discussing how to plan the interior of your new barndominium or shouse (shop/house). He had some good ideas but there are a few things I’d like to add. In discussing kitchen ideas he mentioned having two dishwashers (they rotate and keep even the pots and pans from having to be scrubbed by hand). Also his idea of having two microwaves works out wonderfully. We can both reheat leftovers in our “His and Hers” microwaves giving us time to eat together and no waiting.

Another thing we did in building our cabinets was to put the dishwashers on a wood pedestal by the seating for the bar area. Dishes are easier to add or remove at that height for both Mike and myself. I’m in a tall power wheelchair so access to appliances is paramount for me.

As an aside, Mike may have mentioned I was in a motorcycle accident almost five years ago, leaving me paralyzed from the chest down. But there’s nothing wrong with my arms or my brain so I try to be as independent as possible. The all fridge/all freezer combo is also on a pedestal a foot off the floor. Easier for Mike to access items from the top shelves as he is 6’5″. That way I can access the bottom two shelves and the drawers, as well as the door compartments.

The part I wish to add about access in the kitchen or anywhere in the home is widths for getting around in a wheelchair. You never know when someone in your household may have to use crutches, a walker or sad to say, a wheelchair.
When we built our two story barndominium, I was normal. We had our kitchen, bath and bedroom custom cabinets installed before my accident. It’s amazing how wonderful these changes to what people usually design has worked out to my ease of access and comfort.

The aisleways between an island or peninsula should also be plenty wide for two people working in a kitchen at the same time. Again, without knowing we’d need more width between counters and appliances, we designed the kitchen with 52″ between the kitchen sink and island. We used a full 5′ between the island and fridge/freezer area due to the doors possibly being open when the other one of want’s to get by. Both allow Mike and I to be working in the kitchen at the same time and he can zip around my chair if need be.

I’ll touch on a few areas in the home where a handicapped person can function easier if planning ahead for that unforeseen circumstance. These changes also allow you to entertain handicapped or physically challenged persons in your home.
In bedrooms leave a good width all around your bed. We have 5′ on all three sides which is just about right. My desk I’m writing on is up on 8″ wooden blocks so my wheelchair fits neatly within the chair hole. We left a good space between the bed and the outer wall, as we had planned for a circular stairway up to a third level loft area that looks down on the bedroom. Thankfully we never got around to putting in that stairs and instead, we have an electric lift which takes me up to my “lady lair”. I can leave my sewing and craft projects out all the time and don’t have to rush to clear off a dining room table once visitors come to our home.
The bathroom. We have a true roll-in shower. No lip to roll over like one might find in a hotel bathroom. The tile is sloped just right for the water to roll off into the drain. We do use a shower curtain to prevent the spray from going all over the vanity area and bathroom door. The bathroom doubles as a laundry area with washer/dryer at one end. These are also up on drawer pedestals. I love having them next to the bathroom and walk-in closet. I don’t have to lug dirty or clean clothes to another part of our home. I can hang up shirts, shorts and the like directly out of the dryer. It saves a ton of time and our laundry area and “roll-in” closet always look neat and organized. There is even a counter in the closet for folding clothes before easily putting them away in the drawers beneath. Baskets in the walk-in closet collect dirty clothes and I can easily sort them before washing.

Doorways. Ours are standard width. The clearance is 35″ which is too narrow. I hate to admit it, but our nice door jambs have more than one gouge from me running into them. I’m not a bad driver, but sometimes I get too close to one side or another, especially when backing up.
Lastly, NO carpeting. We have all hardwood floors, which are beautiful and make zipping around in my wheelchair a breeze.

Thank you for taking the time to see things through my eyes a bit.
Have a great rest of your day!

Judy
J.A. Hansen

This entry was posted in Shouse, About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Barn Planning, Building Interior, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium and tagged interior design, barndominium, Post Frame Home, accessibility on July 9, 2020 by admin.

Barndominium Features Worth Having?

New barndominium owners often assume any upgraded features will make their place more valuable. While it is true upgraded kitchen features, a carriage style garage door, or real wood floors may add value and make your home more desirable for resale, there are other projects providing very little return. Here are some most common.

An inground pool

Lounging on a pool float with a cool drink in your hand sounds like a great way to spend a summer. But installing a pool is not only an expensive project, it is expensive to insure and maintain. Plus, when it’s time to sell, potential buyers may see this feature as a headache or a safety concern.

If you’ll use a pool regularly, and plan to stay in your barndominium for several years, then by all means, go for it. But before you make any big financial decisions ask yourself:

How many days will you actually be able to use it?
How much will a pool increase energy and water bills?
Will you pay someone for maintenance or take on this task yourself?
How will an inground pool affect your homeowner’s insurance premiums?
Can you afford these extra costs?

I had an inground pool installed in my home in Oregon in the mid-1980s. Poor investment, I probably could have sold for more if I had filled it in with earth.

An outdoor kitchen

Outdoor kitchens have emerged as a growing indoor/outdoor living trend. And while dining alfresco sounds idyllic, it is an expensive upgrade – one may not be worth it’s investment.

An outdoor kitchen could cost anywhere from $4,800 to $21,300 or beyond. In warmer climates (south or southwest), you’ll likely see a higher return on investment because outdoor kitchens are almost expected, especially in higher-priced homes. Anywhere else, where the climate is more unstable, outdoor kitchens don’t get as much use and aren’t as valuable to buyers.

Custom designs

Unless you plan to stay in your barndominium for many years, think twice about over personalization.

Have lots of children? Rather than having all sorts of very small bedrooms so each child has their own space – institute room sharing, incorporating larger bedrooms with walk in closets. While lots of small bedrooms may work well for your lifestyle, it is a personal design choice not appealing to most potential buyers.

In National Association of Home Builders’ 2019 “What Buyers Really Want” report, custom upgrades, like a wine cellar, a dog washing station, master bathroom dual toilets, and cork flooring are among the top ten most unwanted home features.

Custom features may wind up costing you come listing time, as many buyers factor in money they’ll need to spend to change your house to suit their own tastes.

Over-improvements

Keep your regional standards in mind. Being a little nicer than other barndominiums around you can be a selling point, but once you go overboard, you’ll lose potential buyers and your wallet may take a hit.

Your resale competition will not include just other barndominiums, but also stick built homes.

When planning your kitchen, for instance, tour some open houses in your general area. See how these kitchens look before you invest a small fortune in quartz countertops and high-end fixtures and appliances.

But, just like life, building is a balancing act, and smart barndominium owners need to balance dollar value and value through enjoyment.

If your upgrades will improve your quality of life and allow you to stay in your barndominium longer, then costs may be worth it. But if you plan to sell in a few years, remember over-improving can come at a cost.

This entry was posted in About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Shouse, Shouse, Pole Barn Design and tagged insurance premium, outdoor kitchen, homeowner's insurance, National Association of Home Builders, barndominium, in-ground pool on July 2, 2020 by admin.

Why Curb Appeal is Crucial for Your New Barndominium

I have had people try to convince me curb appeal for their new barndominium is not important. Their reason has ranged from, “I am never going to sell this house” to “It is far into a forest no one will ever see it”.
A shocking reality – some day, someone will be selling your barndominium.
Here is a case in point. My great grandparents bought my family home outside of Spokane, Washington in 1937 from its original owners who had it built for them in 1909. Nine years later, they sold it to their son and my grandfather passed it along to me in 1990. It has been in our family for 83 years.
Never in my wildest dreams did I expect this home to not be in our family. However my lovely bride Judy was in a tragic motorcycle accident nearly five years ago and her being a paraplegic confined to a wheelchair did not match up well with a hillside home full of stairs. My three biological children, who grew up in this home, are scattered to the wind in Tennessee, Oregon and Massachusetts and are either buying homes of their own, or are settled into life at their present locales.

So, we are selling.

We’ve all had the experience of driving or walking down a street and seeing a house so adorable, we have to stop, stare, and imagine what it would be like to live there. Architecturally and aesthetically it looks warm, inviting, and happy just to exist.
Meanwhile, next door is a home looking like a big box, no overhangs, very flat roof, everything making it look… well, not quite so nice, rather like a warehouse. Imagine if those two homes were for sale — even if this second one were bigger, do you think a buyer would jump as readily to make a high offer on it as he would the first?

Besides me learning I did not want to golf, architecture school did teach me you have only one chance to make a good first impression.

First impressions last, and nowhere is this more evident than in real estate. If you are listing your barndominium, the initial impression it makes on a potential buyer can be the difference between a speedy sale and a house languishing without offers for several months.

Curb appeal describes a potential buyer’s feeling of a home as he or she approaches it, based on how it looks from outside. In recent years, this initial impression has extended beyond just physical and into a realm of virtual reality. How a home looks online can also greatly influence a buyer’s interest — in fact, in today’s highly competitive market, this is where curb appeal really begins.

Buying a home is an emotional experience. It is, therefore, critically important a seller sets a proper stage in generating a positive emotional response from a buyer. Whether a buyer sees a property online or physically pulls up to it, they’re either connecting or not connecting with this property in those first moments. How it looks from the outside brings about expectations of what the inside looks like once they enter.

Buyers and agents are looking at the big picture when viewing a home, but this doesn’t mean they are immune to little details. Everything is taken into consideration from the moment they see your house, including garage/shop, front door, and architectural details.

If you’ve already set a good impression with your barndominium’s exterior, it will allow for a more hopeful expectation of what a buyer will see inside. However, if you set a poor example, any positive emotional experience you’re looking for becomes an uphill battle. No matter how beautiful your interior is, a potential buyer’s mindset has been influenced before they’ve even stepped in your front door.

You can’t negotiate with a buyer if you can’t get them to your house, and if you don’t present your property online in a way compelling someone to want to hop in their car and see it firsthand, there won’t be a sale.

In most cases a wife or female human significant other is going to be the decision maker when it comes to buying your property. Many guys are like me – I don’t care if it is painted pink outside, as long as it has a great shop for me to tinker. Most wives have a lesser interest in a barndominium appearing to be all garage or looking like a warehouse.

Tune in next Tuesday for ideas on how to create attractive curb appeal.

This entry was posted in About The Pole Barn Guru, Building Styles and Designs, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes, Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Barn Design and tagged barndominium, curb appeal, architecture, real estate on June 18, 2020 by admin.

Barndominium Drywall Cracks

You have just moved into your beautiful new barndominium, shouse or post frame home. Your drywall was painted and looked perfect for months and then you start to see seams cracking and screw heads popping through. Our first inclination is to blame whoever installed it. It is possible drywall was installed incorrectly leading to screw pops and seams cracking, however, it may be good to understand why drywall seams crack or screws pop. Many of them are not drywall installation process related.

NATHAN in INDIANAPOLIS writes:

“Do you see much movement in post frame homes…..that causes drywall settlement cracks, or a higher rate of nail pops in drywall?”

Drywall issues in post frame buildings can occur from several reasons – lack of an adequate footing thickness and/or diameter (rarely are concrete cookies adequate); base of column footing not below frost line; poorly prepared site (have to get rid of clay and prevent ground water from flowing under building); columns and wall girts not engineered to limit deflection.

drywall crack Where two sheets of drywall meet, this seam is your wall’s weakest point. Drywall tapers spread mud and tape on joints to give strength to this area and then add layers of drywall mud to feather seams smooth to the rest of the wall. When a barndominium settles or walls move, drywall seams may crack if there is a “weak link”. One reason for cracking is because the wrong drywall mud type was used to tape drywall seams. Some drywall mud has more adhering ability and is intended to be used in the drywall taping step whereas other types of mud should only be used in finishing. Other drywall mud products are intended only for second or third coats. Some drywall tapers say mesh tape should never be used because it is not as strong as paper tape. Other drywall tapers say mesh tape is fine as long as it is used with quick setting drywall mud.

Drywall corner bead will at times crack as well. One reason is when corner bead was installed it may not have been installed to maximize strength. There are different types of corner beads and various installations. If screws were used there may have been too few. If vinyl bead was used with spray adhesive, perhaps not enough glue was used. Different drywall tapers and hangers have different opinions as to what process is strongest. Generally most feel the “tape on” corner bead is strongest and least prone to cracking.

Another common drywall problem is popped screws where you can see what looks like a screw head showing through paint. This usually occurs within the first year after a drywall job has been completed. Drywall screws are used to secure drywall to framing below. Screw head puts pressure against drywall’s paper surface. If the screw head goes too deep and busts through paper into the gypsum layer below, it no longer has holding power. When installing drywall, drywall hangers will at times use construction adhesive on framing below and then use drywall screws to hold sheet until glue has time to dry. When this is done it reduces the number of screw pops. However, this is not a fix-all.

This being said, drywall tape’s strength is limited. Construction adhesive helps to hold sheets in place but fasteners, drywall tape and corner bead all have limited strength. If a barndominium settles and walls move to any great degree, no amount of tape or glue will keep it from cracking.

When cracks develop in a barndominium usually they run along high stress areas. High stress areas include areas above doorways and windows and over beams spanning long distances. If any part of your barndominium was built on improperly compacted fill it will have a greater possibility of settling. Most new barndominiums will settle some within the first year. Good drywall techniques can limit occurrence of cracks and screw pops, however cannot cure inadequate structural design.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Structure, Building Interior, Fasteners and tagged drywall, drywall cracks, screw pops, drywall tapers, drywall mesh tape, drywall paper tape, drywall corner bead, barndominium on June 9, 2020 by admin.

Not Your Average Kitchen in a Barndominium

Not Your Average Kitchen in a Barndominium

When my lovely bride Judy first came up with an idea to construct our now shouse (shop/house) gambrel building 15 years ago, it was not with a thought as to it becoming a barndominium. Indeed, it was to be a place to have offices along one side and warehouse space for inventory. Our huge and wide open upstairs would be a place we could have our youngest children (then 17, 14, 11 and 10) hang out with their friends, play foosball and shoot some pool.

As life goes, one thing led to another – one of Judy’s older sons needed a place to live while he went to college so he moved into her house across the street from where we are now. Graciously he, and his now wife, relocated all of our belongings into our formerly wide open expanse and we became barndominium dwellers.

Somethings are essential for barndominium roughing it – obviously a bathroom (we had finished one downstairs), then a place for food prep. For many years we had a folding table with a microwave for our kitchen. Lacking running water upstairs, we hauled dishes up and down to wash in the big sink downstairs.

Finally we decided to get serious and ordered custom oak cabinets.

This, in itself, was a tremendous improvement over our folding table!

But wait, there is more….

Four foot by eight foot granite slab for this island weighed in at 700 pounds! Might not have been so bad except our living area is 20 feet above grade! In order to get it up, we loaded it on a scissors lift and brought it through a front window. Rolling stands helped to get the granite slab over to the 4’x8′ island and was lifted into place by six strong men.

A few years after this our lives changed when Judy’s motorcycle accident left her a paraplegic confined to a power wheelchair. It became necessary to leave our beautiful Spokane, WA residence due to several flights with many small and large staircases. We moved into the barndominium in South Dakota. We found we had done a few things accidentally right. For one thing it already had a small one person elevator which served us until we installed a larger four person elevator a few years later. The kitchen was done with many areas “just right”.

Open areas, in cabinets below the island, are perfect for her to be able to roll in. We have at least four feet of space between the island and surrounding countertops. Refrigerator, freezer and dual dishwashers are raised a foot above floor level, making them easier to access from Judy’s chair. (More on these here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/03/some-barndominium-kitchen-appliance-ideas/) She can also reach and use the lower of those two stacked ovens quite handily.

There is one missing feature I wish we had incorporated – a trash compactor.

Considering heavy stone or concrete countertops for an elevated wood floor? I would recommend spacing floor joists or trusses closer together in these areas to limit deflection.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Shouse, Shouse, Pole Barn Design, About The Pole Barn Guru, Building Interior, Lofts, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home and tagged shouse, granite slab, scissors lift, barndominium on May 27, 2020 by admin.

Do You Own the Land Your Barndominium Will Be Built On?

Barndominiums, shouses and post frame homes are not only a current rage, they may be America’s future home of choice. Pinterest has literally hundreds of photos of barndominiums. DIY network’s “Texas Flip-n-Move” feature a rusty old barn made into a beautiful home in Episode 6 of Season 5. Chip and Joanna Gaines took on a barndominium makeover in Season 3 Episode 6 of “Fixer Upper”. Tens of thousands of Facebookers join barndominium discussion groups of one sort or another.

However not everyone wants to take on the joys and challenges of trying to convert an old barn into a beautiful and functional new home.

Most potential barndominium owners are trying to escape urban or suburban living. They want to sneeze without hearing their neighbors say, “Bless you”. Oftentimes they have looked to buy an existing home, but could never find one exactly fitting their needs.

Here is where a blank canvas of vacant property has its allure. Within constraints of available space, budget and imagination anything becomes possible.
I accept my asking, “Do you own the land your barndominium will be built on?” in Facebook groups puts me in a position of being a brunt taker for jokes. There is, however, a method to my madness.

To begin with, I do not care if you own property free and clear (and let’s face it, your local property taxing authority owns it as well). It doesn’t matter if ‘your dirt’ is owned by a relative, a friend or a close enemy – just as long as you know where your new home is going to be.
For most this ‘barndominium build” is going to become their forever home (or at least theirs for a very long time).

Seemingly millions of canned house plans are available (for a small to large fee) across a plethora of internet websites. 99.9% of these plans have a similar problem – they were designed for a flat lot in suburbia! Yep, they look stunning on a website. Considering spending your hard earned money on one thinking you will save money by using cheap house plans? This would be an equivalent to everyone buying 34 inch waist 36 inch inseam Levi’s. They fit me just fine, but what if you are not 6’5”? Or maybe you do not even like Levi’s?

Your home should be planned to fit into its environment. Does it make sense to try to change (or ignore) your environment to fit your bargain house plans?
In order to craft ideal plans for your new barndominium, shouse or post frame home, your building site should be carefully considered.

If you are considering hiring a general contractor to turnkey your build, or merely an erector to put up your home’s shell, only once you ‘own the dirt’ and even better have a building plan developed to match your building site should you embark on a ‘builder hunt’. Builders are in short supply and their time is valuable. It is an unfair expectation to take advantage of them before they can reasonably ascertain you actually might have a need for their services.

Know where your barndominium is going to be built? Please reach out to me and I can give you some free advice on getting those ideal plans.

For extended reading on turnkey general contractors for barndominiums please see: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/02/does-my-barndominium-need-a-turn-key-general-contractor/

This entry was posted in Shouse, Pole Barn Planning, Building Contractor, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, About The Pole Barn Guru, Shouse, Building Department and tagged texas, Texas Flip n Move, building contractor, Fixer-Upper, building plans, builder, barndominium, shouse on May 14, 2020 by admin.

Whole House Barndominium Fans

Whole House Barndominium Fans

Apparently when it comes to barndominiums, there is a limitless number of subjects to cover!

Reader CAROLYN in CLEVELAND writes:

“We would like to build a post frame home but I would like to have a whole house fan to cut down on cooling costs. Most barndos we see under construction use spray foam insulation directly against the metal roofing/ siding which would prevent the use of a whole house fan. You talk about blown in insulation and roof venting which sounds similar to stick built homes. So is it safe to assume that your designs would allow us to install a whole house fan in the attic space with adequate venting? I fondly recall the ancient airplane engine attic fans 3 or 4 ft wide from years ago and was pleasantly surprised to see the new ones drastically reduced in size and volume. What is your opinion on this?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

Most Hansen Pole Buildings’ post frame barndominiums are designed with dead attic spaces – blown in insulation above a sheetrocked ceiling (yes, very similar to stick built homes). This would certainly allow for use of a whole house fan and could prove to be very effective. I would still encourage use of a flash coat of closed cell spray foam insulation inside your barndominium’s wall steel. (For extended reading on flash and batt: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/01/flash-and-batt-insulating-barndominium-walls/).

In most climates whole house cooling using a whole house fan can substitute for an air conditioner. Combined with ceiling fans and other circulating fans, whole house fans provide acceptable summer comfort for many families, even in hot weather. In addition to whole house fans, central heating and cooling system ducts can be modified to provide whole house cooling.

A whole house fan pulls air in from open windows and exhausts it through the attic and roof. It provides good attic ventilation in addition to whole house cooling. Whole house fans should provide houses with 3 to 6 air changes per hour (varies with climate, floor plan, etc.—check with a professional to determine what is appropriate for your home). Air-change rate you will choose depends on your climate and how much you will depend on your whole house fan for cooling.

Installing a whole house fan can be tricky and should be done by a professional. An experienced professional should take your attic measurements and install your dedicated circuit wiring and, if needed, your new attic vents.

Attic ventilation will usually need to be increased to exhaust fan’s air outdoors. You’ll need two to four times the normal area of attic vents, or about one square foot of net free area for every 750 cubic feet per minute of fan capacity. Code requirements for dead attic space venting are 1/300th of the attic “footprint” with at least half of this located in the upper half of the attic. Net free area of a vent takes into account resistance offered by its louvers and insect screens. More vent area is better for optimal whole house fan performance.

If your fan doesn’t come with a tight-sealing winter cover, you should either buy one or build one. If you switch between air conditioning and cooling with a whole house fan as summer weather changes, build a tightly sealed, hinged door for fan opening easy to open and close when switching cooling methods.

Be cautious when operating these large exhaust fans. Open windows throughout the barndominium to prevent a powerful and concentrated suction in one location. If enough ventilation isn’t provided, these fans can cause a backdraft in your furnace, water heater or gas-fired dryer, pulling combustion products such as carbon monoxide into your living space.

Whole house fans can be noisy, especially if improperly installed. In general, a large-capacity fan running at low speed makes less noise than a small fan operating at high speed. All whole house fans should be installed with rubber or felt gaskets to dampen noise. You can set a multi-speed fan to a lower speed when noise is a problem.

You may be able to use heating and air conditioning ducts in your barndominium as a means of whole house ventilation. This would involve installing an intake duct to pull air into an attic-mounted system directing air into your heating and cooling ducts. A damper would control exhaust air from your home into the attic. Check with a local HVAC professional to find out if this option is right for you.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning, Ventilation, Building Interior, Budget and tagged whole house fan, barndominium, dead attic spaces, closed cell spray foam insulation, flash and batt system, ceiling fans, air conditioning on May 12, 2020 by admin.

Ganging Up Barndominium Roof Trusses

Hansen Pole Buildings’ client (and quickly becoming our good friend) Brett and his lovely bride are self-building their new barndominium at Cumberland Furnace, Tennessee. For those who are like me and rely upon front seat navigator with a GPS on her phone to get anywhere – Brett is mostly West and slightly North of Nashville, roughly just under a two hour drive from our oldest daughter Bailey who lives in Shelbyville.

Their building will be 36 feet wide (clearspan) by 62 feet long with an 11 foot eave height. It has a 7/12 roof slope to allow for bonus room attic trusses. It features an eight foot wide wrap around porch across the front endwall and 36 feet down each side.

Brett’s barndominium will be plenty stout as it is designed for a 131 mph (miles per hour) design wind speed with an Exposure C (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/03/wind-exposure-confusion/). With trusses directly aligned atop sidewall columns up to every 14 feet, besides floor weight, purlins between trusses are designed to support sheetrock as well as standing seam steel over 5/8” CDX plywood and rooftop solar panels.

In one instance his building has a four ply truss. In Brett’s words:

“Also, I wanted tech support to know the use of caulk and adhesive to assemble my attic trusses worked out really well. I also wanted to pass on a tip. Use stout welding clamps to sandwich the material prior to the nailing pattern and make sure all the metal plates are fully pressed into the wood. Levels and string were really important to keep these taller trusses behaving while using metal stakes to keep the bottom chord nice and straight. Once the first truss is good to go, all the other trusses in that series behave really well with welding clamps. These 4-ply trusses were no joke to assemble :-)”

Caulking was utilized between truss plies in order to prevent any warm moist air from inside the building rising between trusses and condensing on underside of roof deck (spaces between purlins will be insulated with closed cell spray foam).

Further Brett adds:

“I am placing the last truss together to complete my last 4-ply set. I can mock up the metal stakes, string line, and I will be using the welding clams/large c-clamps to set the final one in place with the nailing pattern. It will show how the excess caulk and glue has oozed out of each ply. Lastly, the use of a plate level/long level to show how important it is when you have this many ply-s in a set not just horizontal but vertical as well before you nail the second truss together. And because each ply is not light I placed each end of the truss on a portion of 6X6 lumber that was level with the truss each set. (set with a laser level ) Once this is all done and weather cooperates, I will install the joist hangers and finally the bolt pattern for the 4-ply trusses and install them. And to further credit…my best helper was my wife and we managed to put them together ourselves. She has been a trooper 🙂 “

Hopefully we will see more photos from Brett as his barndominium progresses!

P.S. Note how pristine Brett’s jobsite is!

This entry was posted in Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses and tagged solar panels, barndominium, ganging up roof trusses, welding clamps, 4 ply roof trusses, caulk on May 5, 2020 by admin.

Beginning a Shouse Journey in Washington State Part I

A shouse (shop/house), barndominium or post frame house project may seem daunting, however by doing lots of reading, research and asking questions, an average individual can craft for themselves a home they love, tailored to meet their family’s wants and needs.

Loyal reader ROBERT in OLYMPIA writes:

“Hello to the Pole Barn Guru or whoever reads this!

I came across Hansen Buildings a few years ago when I first became interested in pole barn homes, and have been following the content posted by the Pole Barn Guru in various places online- always great information! I am finally zeroing in on purchasing a piece of land and I would like to get some more information on going the “Hansen route,” either for a shouse or a house and detached shop, or for just a shop.

I’ve spoken with my county’s planning department and was informed that there would be no problems building what I want. The land is already improved with water and septic, is nice and flat, is south facing, and is zoned accordingly. There is actually a building permit currently active from the previous owner’s stick built project (who passed away, and never further than the dig out for his foundation). They told me that I could bypass some of the headaches (such as the Pocket Gopher review process) if I renew the permit before it expires (4/2020) and submit the new site plans…

My ideal setup would be:

– 50x90x(16 or 18) building

-around 1200 square feet of living space, 2 bath, 2 bed, 1 “office”

-3300 square feet as shop space with 1 bath and 1 utility sink. Wired with electricity & lighting.

-Very energy efficient (insulation, doors, windows, leakage). Prefer spray foam if budget allows.

-ERV?

-1 large garage door/bay, 3″ thick

-All large windows to be south facing with appropriately-sized overhangs (passive house principal). These overhangs could potentially be in the form of a covered porch.

-Enclosed overhang with vented soffits, but only on the eaves & vented ridge cap. Solid gables.

-Concrete piers with post brackets.

-slight outward slope in concrete where garage doors meet concrete to make water drain away from/out of shop.

-at least 2 drains in concrete – 1 near door, and one near a corner

-insulated concrete slab w/ hydronic heating, sealed concrete flooring throughout (no other floor covering)

-Possibly add ductless heat pump mini-split for additional heating if necessary.

-No cooling system necessary.

-modestly finished interior

-Ikea or similar non-custom kitchen

-self-sourced appliances

Questions:

Someone at the Thurston county planning department told me that while the project definitely is doable, it might make more sense to build the home and shop as separate structures. He mentioned that because they were attached, the whole building would have to meet WA energy code. I guess he was implying that it would be cheaper to construct the shop separately if it didn’t have to meet that code? Because I would like the shop to be insulated, does this really apply to me? I’ve heard that insurance could potentially be cheaper with a detached setup, but I can’t seem to find anything concrete about that. Have you found that to be the case?

As I mentioned I would like to do hydronic radiant heating (probably by Radiantec) throughout the home and shop. From my research that seems like the most cost efficient way to heat (mass rather than air). However, the shop doesn’t necessarily need to be kept at “living temperature” all the time. I would like it to be comfortable while I’m in there, but beyond that I just need it to stay above about 40 degrees. I’m interested to hear your input on this. In reading, it seems like whenever people opt for something like a radiant tube heater or mini-split for the shop, they always regret not going with radiant floor heating. Natural gas is not available at this location, so my options are propane, oil, wood, or electric.

Because I’m very new to the world of home building, I’m not sure what other requirements there would be in building this. I know that there are some pretty detailed drainage plans that exist for the previous project on the property, and I’m wondering who is in charge of creating new drainage plans for my project? Does Hansen do that type of thing? Or someone local to me?

Pricing/plans: Is it possible to get some sort of idea about costs/cost breakdown for the type of building I described? How about for separate structures? I love the idea of doing some of the work myself, I’m just not sure how realistic that really is with my work schedule, especially in the summer. I would probably need contractor(s) to take care of the majority of the major work.

Do you have any floor plans similar to what I’ve described? I have a few different ideas on different floor plan ideas but it’s probably easier/cheaper to just use some existing plans.

I love the “Shouse” idea but I find it a little overwhelming because there is not a “turn key” option like what exists from traditional home builders like Adair Homes in Olympia. So to get the job done would require basically managing the project with a crew of different contractors to finish the shell, concrete, insulation, electrical, plumbing, finishing, etc……I just would really prefer something a little different and more energy efficient than standard construction.

As of right now, I think those are all of the questions that I have.

Thank you very much for your time and I look forward to hearing back!”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

Come back tomorrow for Part Two.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Structure, Building Contractor, Post Frame Home, Concrete, Barndominium, Building Drainage, Budget, Shouse, Porches, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Building Overhangs, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Planning, Workshop Buildings and tagged Post brackets, stick built building, shouse, porch, pocket gopher review process, overhangs, barndominium on March 11, 2020 by admin.

SIPS for Barndominiums

It has only been five years since I first opined about using SIPs for post frame building construction: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/02/sips/. Since then, post frame homes (frequently referred to as barndominiums) have become quite the rage. Easily half of Hansen Pole Buildings’ inquiries are now for some combination of living space!

I had recently done some further research on SIPs and actually acquired pricing, reader STEPHEN from RAPID CITY was evidently thinking on a like-minded path when he wrote:

“I am a CAD student at Western Dakota Tech in Rapid City, SD and have been thinking about a way to use post-frame buildings as a cost-effective way to create very energy efficient (essentially passive house level insulation and airtightness) residential housing. What do you think of the possibility of attaching appropriately sized SIPs to the outside of the posts instead of other sheathing and using their strength to do away with girts all together? I have seen SIPs advertised as being used this way with timber framed or post and beam construction (neither are cheap) but not with post-framed buildings. The idea would be to have thick enough SIPs to not need internal dimensional lumber in the SIP thereby removing thermal bridges, but having it still be strong enough for racking and wind loads.

I know that the costs for SIPs mostly comes from the manufacturer having to essentially custom make each piece. In this application the SIP panels could be made as rectangles that are as wide as your center to center post distance and as tall as is convenient. Any angled pieces for gable ends and any fenestrations could be cut on site, reducing SIP manufacturing costs. The SIPs also would likely not have to have much dimensional lumber built into the SIP because it is just holding up itself and windows, not the whole building thereby drastically reducing your thermal bridging. You could also foam seal between the SIP panels to provide air sealing (which I believe is standard for SIPs anyway.)

I would think that you could either use thick enough SIPs to provide all of your insulation and just leave the posts exposed on the inside, or you could use a SIP that was just thick enough to, structurally, take the place of girts and sheathing and frame the space between the posts with 2x4s 24” o.c. flush with the inside of the posts and use fiberglass batts in that space.

The first technique has the advantage of not needing to do any extra internal framing, but you do have to deal with the posts in your living space. In addition, if you want to run any electrical to the inside face of any of those walls you either have to be ok with running it in conduit on the face of the wall or you are getting back to specially made SIPs with electrical chases. The advantages of this technique over your suggestion of bookshelf girts and sheet insulation on the interior is that it doesn’t require interior framing (girts or traditional) and no need to glue drywall but the cost of the thick SIPS, even generic ones, might outweigh those advantages.

The second way of doing it does require extra framing and if your outside SIPs are air sealed you would have to be careful about using a moisture barrier on the inside of the wall (like you normally would in a heating climate) as you wouldn’t want to trap moisture in that space. The advantages of this system over your bookshelf girts and sheet insulation is, again, no gluing of drywall, normal attachment systems for electrical boxes and cables, and the internal framing being slightly cheaper than full 2×6 girts. Again, the cost of the SIPs might make those advantages moot.

Finally, with either style, you could use a traditional (for post-frame buildings) ceiling with blown insulation above and a vented attic space or you could have full roof panel SIPs built with internal structure to span between your trusses, leaving them exposed inside, and get rid of your purlins as well (for both purlins and girts you would probably have to have some temporary bracing while the building is being built.)

What do you think? Have you heard of anyone doing something similar? Does this sound like it would be a viable way to get very high insulation and air sealing on the cheap?”

Mike the Pole Building Guru responds:

Thank you for your well thought out question, it is evident you have read some of my articles. I hope they have been informational, educational and/or entertaining.

I am usually a guy who jumps all over some brand new technology. My construction business had a website back in 1995 when there were only roughly 23,500 world-wide. This was not long after I had erected a post frame shouse (shop/house) for myself, not realizing there was such a thing as a barndominium. My first attempt utilized ICF blocks on two walls and a portion of a third to compensate for digging away a 12 foot grade change.

Getting on track, I have always thought SIPs would be “cool” as in neat, fun and interesting. It has only been recently I have been able to get some solid costs back on their use. I approached this design solution from an aspect of eliminating all except columns, roof trusses, essential truss bracing and steel skin. I looked at this as applying SIPs to column exteriors and used a 36 foot wide by 48 foot length with 10 foot high walls. In order to span 12 feet between columns and trusses I was looking at R-52 panels. Wholesale raw cost difference (after eliminating typical wall girts and roof purlins) would add nearly $30,000 plus freight to this building. It would also require a crane onsite to place panels and some sophisticated fastening systems to attach SIPs to the framework. It is relatively easy to achieve similar insulating values and air sealing for far less of a cash outlay.

Can it be done? Yes. Should it be done? Not if return for investment is a consideration.

Anyone who can design an overall cost effective post frame building design solution with SIPs, I am all ears and eyes to hear and read about it. Until then, for those who just want to be neat and different without cost as a factor, it might be a great system.

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Questions, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design, Shouse, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Budget, Pole Barn Homes and tagged SIPS, Western Dakota Tech, thermal bridges, post frame buildings, wind racking, wind loads, barndominium on February 28, 2020 by admin.

Barndominium on a Daylight Basement

As post frame construction moves into a world filled with barndominiums, shouses and homes, there are of course those who would prefer (or need due to lot slope) to build upon either a full or partial (daylight) basement.

Post frame buildings are ideal for this situation.

Reader LOUIE writes:

“Hi, I just started the process of building my first home and came across your website, hoping maybe you can help. So far I have purchased the land, got the septic design and have started to clear it. I have a good idea of what I would like to build but have a few questions. Can you design buildings to be built on daylight basement foundations? Also I see that the kits on your website include the windows, doors and exterior finish. Would it be possible to buy a kit for just the the framing? Ideally I want to build something like this roughly 28×36. Thanks and look forward to hearing from you.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

Yes, we can design to build on a daylight basement, columns on the basement’s open side would be long enough to extend into the ground and be embedded. My shouse (shop/house) in Washington was engineered this way. In my case we dealt with 12 feet of grade change on a 40 foot wide site. Our solution was to have a 12’ tall ICF block wall on one side and 10 feet of front, then step down across the rear endwall to follow grade. Engineered wet set brackets were poured into top of ICFs (read about wet set brackets here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/05/sturdi-wall-plus-concrete-brackets/).

Besides your framing package, we would like to provide your building’s steel roofing. If you are using some sort of board or plank siding, we would like for you to obtain it and we would provide OSB or plywood sheathing as well as a Weather Resistant Barrier.

We would need to have some wall at the corners of the window end in order to adequately transfer shear loads from roof to foundation. Ideally for a 10′ tall wall, roughly 3.5′ at the corners.

To achieve your vaulted ceiling as shown in the photo, the best method would be to place a column at peak 12′ in from each endwall. If your interior plans cannot stand columns, we could run a ridge beam down the center from end to end.

If you do opt for no interior columns, I would also recommend using engineered prefabricated floor trusses for your floor system. This would provide a clearspan lower level and allow for all ductwork and utilities to be hidden in your home’s floor.

For extended reading on barndominium floor trusses please see: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/01/floor-trusses-for-barndominiums/

This entry was posted in Columns, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Shouse, Building Interior and tagged ridge beam, barndominium, Post Frame Home, vaulted ceiling, shouse, wet set brackets, daylight basement, ICF block wall on February 20, 2020 by admin.

Footing Size? A “Reverse Barndominium?” and a Loft Bedroom?

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers questions about the footing size for an open car porch and why a person should use a registered design professional, building a “reverse barndominium” where one build a post frame shell around an existing structure, and if one can build a loft bedroom in a footprint of 20’x 30′.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am building an open car porch, the inside will be connected to another building and on the outside I planning on using 3 – 8 inch x 8 inch x 8 feet posts 12 feet apart. The open car porch area is 24ft x 24ft and the roof is 6 on 12 with 2 x 6 rafters and joists landing on the outside plate. What size footing will I need for each pole? JAY in MORGAN CITY

DEAR JAY: This is a question best answered by the Registered Professional Engineer who designed your building, as he or she will be able to do a complete analysis including soil bearing capacity, design wind speed and wind exposure. With columns only eight feet long, I am guessing you are planning on using wet set brackets into concrete piers https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/05/sturdi-wall-plus-concrete-brackets/. I would not be surprised to see piers up to three feet deep and two foot diameter in order to adequate resist uplift forces.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Are you aware of anyone ever building a “reverse barndominium”? Usually barndominiums are built shell (outside walls) first then the interior, but what about building entirely around an existing structure? I really want to buy this historic house built in 1861. It is currently gutted down to the dirt floors, needs a roof, garage, etc. Why not just enclose the whole thing and DIY the interior without dealing with the outside elements? The primary structure is 19’x38′, but the side structure is an additional 20′ (39′ total wide) with a 6/12 roof. The eave height is 15.5′ and about 20′ at the ridge. The basement is about 4′ deep. I could go 42′ wide with a structure and have the exterior posts completely outside of the current footprint. The lot is 60’x150′ and I’m looking at a 40×80-ish building with a second story.

Is this feasible or have I succumb to the Dunning-Kruger Effect? I have attached an image of my sketchup drawing to give a better idea of my concept.

Thank you great guru. I love your philosophy and transparency throughout your blog posts. I have learned a lot at the cost of otherwise being productive at work. JAMES in WESTON

DEAR JAMES: Thank you very much for your kind words, although I am not as certain your employer would be as happy with me 🙂

Perhaps surprisingly, you would be far from the first person to attempt such a project. Is is entirely doable and actually becomes very similar to what people do with a PEMB (Pre-engineered metal building aka red iron) or a weld up barndominium, where a shell is erected and a building is built inside of a building. You just happen to have your insides prebuilt!

Outside of my loyal readers, most have never heard of the Dunning-Kruger Effect (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/01/dunning-kruger-effect/)

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m interested in a residential building approximately 20ft x 30ft. How tall would the walls need to be to include a loft bedroom with headspace to approximately 4ft from the sides? JUDE in DUPONT

DEAR JUDE: I will answer your question from a standpoint of you getting best value for your investment – meaning using both floors from wall to wall.

Assuming a concrete slab-on-grade for main level, bottom of framed ceiling would be at 8′ 4-5/8″ this allows for 5/8″ drywall on ceiling and 1/2″ at bottom to be able to account for any variances in your building slab and to keep drywall from soaking up moisture from floor, plus 3-1/2″ for actual thickness of a nominal four inch thick slab.

I would recommend using premanufactured wood floor trusses between floors (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/09/floor-trusses/). Plan on a 20 inch thickness, plus 3/4″ for subflooring and 8′ 1-1/8″ putting bottom of roof trusses at 18′ 2-1/2″. In Pennsylvania I would recommend R-60 blown in attic insulation (just under 20 inches thick), resulting in needing a 20 foot eave height.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Footings, Professional Engineer, Lofts and tagged floor trusses, parallel flat chord trusses, footing size, loft bedroom, engineered building, RDP, barndominium on February 17, 2020 by admin.

Post Frame Building Wainscot

Whether your post frame building will be a garage, shop, commercial building or barndominium wainscot an extremely popular option is wainscot.

Roughly 25 years ago I had an 80’ x 150’ x 20’ post frame building erected for my prefabricated wood truss manufacturing business. Whilst a great deal of thought went into this building’s design, there is one crucial element I missed.

Down each long side of our building we placed bollards (read more at: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/07/a-real-life-case-for-pole-barn-bollards/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2017/05/lifesaving-bollard/) to protect steel siding from units of lumber and forklifts. As there was no storage across our front wall, we did not place bollards there. A week before we moved in, someone backed a truck into a steel panel directly adjacent to our main entrance door. Of course this steel panel was nearly 30 feet tall, so to replace it would be no small undertaking. Instead of fixing it, I walked in and out of this door and fumed because of this dent! Had I planned appropriately and used wainscot panels, this dented panel could have been replaced in a matter of minutes, saving me untold hours of grief and aggravation!

By common definition, wainscot is an interior wall lower portion whose surface differs from upper wall. Wainscot was borrowed from Middle Low German wagenschot. It is not altogether clear what these origins were, but a generally accepted theory is it is a compound of wagen ‘waggon’ and schot ‘planks, boards’, and it therefore originally meant ‘planks used for making waggons’. Originally it was applied in English to ‘high-grade oak imported from Russia, Germany, and Holland’. This wood was used mainly for paneling rooms, and by 16th century wainscot had come to signify ‘wood paneling’.

Homeowners used to apply wainscoting, especially in dining rooms, to protect walls from damage from chairs and tables. A chair rail atop wainscoting serves as a “bumper,” protecting wall from dings and chips created when a chair or table gets a little too chummy. This wall decoration was often also used to add interest and texture to stairways, while protecting them, too. In fact, it first grew in popularity during Elizabethan times, and it’s quite common in historic English and American Colonial homes.

For post frame (or pole) buildings, wainscot has moved to building exteriors. In simple terms, it utilizes an alternate siding panel to cover approximately three feet of exterior wall lower portions. A most common application, with steel sided buildings, is to use a different color steel panel on the lower wall than the upper. Most often steel wainscot panels are the same color as roofing, however this is certainly not mandatory. This allows for an aesthetic look many find pleasing, while affording an ability to quickly and easily change out a short steel panel, if it would become damaged. This would prove to be a most cost affordable solution and is easier than changing out a full length wall panel.

Alternatively, other materials may be utilized, such as T1-11, cement based sidings, vinyl siding or even stone or brick. Mortarless masonry is a popular wainscot (for extended reading: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/10/mortarless-masonry-exterior/). Pretty much any siding applicable to any other building exterior, can be incorporated as post frame building wainscot. It not only serves a useful purpose, it just plain looks good too.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Workshop Buildings, Pole Barn Apartments, Post Frame Home, About The Pole Barn Guru, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Building Siding, Vinyl Siding and tagged barndominium, bollard, t1-11, shouse, vinyl siding, wood paneling, cement based sidings, motarless masonry on February 7, 2020 by admin.

Building Codes Apply to Shouses

Recently I shared with you, my faithful readers, a Park Rapids Enterprise article penned by Lorie R. Skarpness as Nevis, Minnesota attempts to deal with a shouse.

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/12/a-shouse-in-the-news/

Below is Lorie’s update from January 18, 2020:

“The discussion of a proposed shouse (a word that means a shop with living quarters inside) that began at the December Nevis council meeting was continued at their Jan. 13 Nevis meeting.

Planning commissioner Dawn Rouse shared a report from the city’s planning commission about discussion of shouses from their December meeting.

Their consensus was that any requirements should apply to all residences and not single out one specific type, noting that the Minnesota Building Code already addresses many of potential issues. The city also has a building inspector who determines whether a proposed building meets code.

Council member Jeanne Thompson said the way the building code is written is vague and open to interpretation.

“People up here don’t go and buy expensive plans with these beautiful entryways for their shops for the most part,” she said. “They do it themselves. That’s where I think something needs to be addressed so we don’t have industrial and “garageish” looking buildings in a residential neighborhood.”

Concerns about the building material of the shouse were brought up by council member Rich Johnson. “I don’t want something that looks like a pole barn built right next to me because I don’t know if someone would want to move into that neighborhood.”

“We can set more stringent regulations than what is in the building code regarding materials used and things like that if that’s what you want to do,” Rouse said, pointing out that Walker has residential performance standards stating corrugated metal is not to be used on exterior finishes.

Thompson asked Rouse to bring information on existing residential regulations to share at the February 10 council meeting.”

Where their council members get confused is Building Codes address structural components, not aesthetics (such as colors or exterior covering materials). Post frame shouses and barndominiums are Building Code conforming structures. What any jurisdiction can do is to set aesthetic requirements, however they need to be applied equally across all building systems of an Occupancy Classification.

Is a jurisdiction resistant to your proposed barndominium, shouse or post frame home? If so, provide me with specifics and chances are pretty well close to 100% I can assist with a positive resolution.

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design, Building Department, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes, Workshop Buildings and tagged shouse, residential performance standards, shouse structural components, building aesthetic requirements, Building Code, barndominium, Post Frame Home on February 5, 2020 by admin.

Barndominium Brick Wainscot

Actual Brick Considerations for Barndominium Wainscot

With post frame buildings becoming a ‘rage’ for use as homes, barndominiums and shouse (shop/houses) alternatives to dress them up are quickly arising. Amongst these options are clients looking to have actual brick wainscot, as opposed to using a different color of steel siding, thin brick, or other cultured stone.

I have opined upon this subject previously (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/08/brick-ledge-on-a-pole-building/), however it is now time to dive deeper into it.

Preparing an exterior surface of a post frame building wall for a brick veneer is a simple and straightforward procedure. This article will supply you with some helpful information if you are planning to install a brick veneer on your barndominium’s exterior.

First, term “veneer” can have a dual meaning. In construction terminology,“veneer” is applicable to any exterior finish material and this includes standard brick masonry installed onto an exterior wall. “Veneer” can also be taken literally to mean a thin superficial layer of material installed directly onto an exterior wall surface. There are many thin-brick wall systems available utilizing brick only ½ to 1 inch in thickness as opposed to a standard 4-inch nominal (3 ¾-inch actual) thickness. It typically consists of a thin layer of stone or brick mounted with adhesives directly onto a substrate material and is installed in panels.

Step 1: Structural Support for the Brick Veneer

A fully assembled brick veneer is quite heavy and requires adequate structural support. Support is provided by a brick ledge as part of a foundation wall above wall column’s bottom collars. A decision to install a brick exterior is therefore made during conceptual design phases of your new barndominium’s construction. A brick ledge is constructed simply by adding a 6-9/16 inch thick concrete foundation wall outside your post frame building’s wall column. Ledge height will be six inches lower than top of finished concrete floor. Without an adequate structural support by a brick ledge, brick masonry is not an option for your barndominium’s exterior.

Step 2: Be Sure to Provide a one inch Air Space between Sheathing and Brick

Brickwork bears directly upon the concrete ledge, wide enough for both nominal width of brick and a building code required one inch air space. This one inch air space between sheathing and brick allows wall to “breathe” by providing an outlet for air and moisture. It also accommodates any irregularities in the wall surface.

Step 3: Install Weather Resistant Barrier

A weather resistant barrier (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/01/determining-the-most-effective-building-weather-resistant-barrier-part-1/) must be installed onto sheathing to prevent water from entering the inner wall assembly since brick veneer itself is not water-resistant.

Step 4: Install Wall Ties to Anchor the Brick to Sheathing

Lateral support for brickwork is provided by wall ties or brick anchors. They generally consist of L-shaped strips of corrugated metal 1 by 6 inches long nailed through sheathing into wall girts (https://www.strongtie.com/clipsandties_miscellaneousconnectors/bt_tie/p/bt). Horizontal component of brick tie penetrates into brick veneer at a mortar joint. Ties are installed at every fourth brick course and at two-foot horizontal spacings.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design, Building Department, Pole Building How To Guides and tagged brick veneer structural support, brick ledge, barndominium, foundation wall, weather resistant barrier, shouse, brick wainscot, brick veneer on February 4, 2020 by admin.

Your Barndominium’s Planning Department

In most parts of our country (and probably most other developed countries), it will be a necessity to acquire a building permit in order to construct a new barndominium, shouse (shop/house) or post frame home. Easiest way to find out is to contact your local authorities to find out if indeed this is your case.

Whether a structural building permit will be required or not, there is some homework to be done before ever considering contacting anyone to get pricing on a new building.

Don’t worry –this homework is not difficult and there is no final exam!

Call your local Planning Department.

If no Planning Department is listed when you do a Google search, a call to city hall, or your county courthouse can get one directed to proper authorities. Just let them know a new home is being considered to be constructed, and they will tell you what you need to do to satisfy any local requirements.

When planning folks are reached, give them the physical address or parcel number where your barndominium (shouse) being thought about will be constructed.

Tell them what you would like to build.

Approximate footprint size is a place to start. Let them know where on your parcel your new building will ideally be placed.

Ask your planning people what restrictions there may be on a new building. Is it limited in size or in height? Setbacks – how far away must it be located from other buildings, property lines, streets, sewer lines, septic systems or drain fields? Are there any other restrictions prohibiting your building from being constructed, such as amount of square footage of residence in relationship to garage/shop areas? Are there restrictions on roofing and/or siding types, materials or colors?

While a telephone call will often handle most of these questions, it may be necessary to draw a scaled drawing of your property. If so, this drawing should show all property lines, existing structures, your new proposed building, as well as anything else acting as a possible impediment. It doesn’t have to be fancy, but please do use regular sheets of plain white paper, and not your local coffee shop napkins or paper towels!

A personal visit to your Planning Department, with this drawing in hand, should help to get all answers needed, in order to move on to the next steps.

A hint – if told there are restrictions keeping your ideal dream building from being able to be built, ask what processes exist to be able to move past some or all of these “objections”. Sometimes it’s just a matter of filing for a special type of permit or “variance”, and having your local commissioners vote on it. You’d be surprised how many local jurisdictions have laws or rules which are “behind the times” and are happy to discuss changing them to better suit public wants and needs.

I’ve found some Planning Departments are allowed to administratively go “beyond the rules” right there at the counter, without a need for costly and time consuming hearings. One example is within Spokane, Washington’s city limits. The largest allowable detached accessory building within city limits is 1000 square feet, however if requested at the counter, this footprint can be increased by 10%, right then and there!

As my Daddy used to tell me, “the asking is for free”, so don’t be shy. Often a planning department official is not going to offer this information, so it’s up to you to ask lots of questions. If you see other buildings near your building site similar to what you want to build, you can bet someone else figured out “the right questions to ask”.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Building Department, Pole Barn Planning and tagged barndominium, shouse, Spokane County Planning Department, building footprint, building setbacks, planning department on January 29, 2020 by admin.

Floor Trusses for Barndominiums

In my last article I discussed limiting deflection for barndominium floors. Today I will take this one step further with a floor truss design solution.

Most of us don’t think too much about floors we walk upon – unless they are not level, squeak when we walk on them, or are too bouncy.

Traditionally wood floors have been framed with dimensional lumber (2×6, 2×8, etc.), usually spaced 16 inches on center. Often floor joist span limitations are not based upon lumber strength (ability to carry a given load), but upon deflection criteria. Building codes limit floor deflection to L/360, where “L” is span length in inches.

“Stiffest” (by MOE – Modulus of Elasticity values) commonly used framing lumber is Douglas Fir. A #2 grade Douglas-Fir 2×12, 16 inches on center will span 18’1” when carrying standard residential loads. An L/360 deflection event, would cause the center of one of these floor joists to deflect as much as 6/10ths of an inch!

Lumber is organic, so it varies in consistency from board to board. It also varies in size, and it is not unusual for a dimensional variance of over ¼ inch, from one end of a board to another. Combine this with probability some of these boards will be crowned with bow down and it means an uneven floor will result.

One of our friends lives in a fairly new home. In a hallway between her kitchen and sleeping areas, there is a good ½ inch dip in her floor – more than noticeable when walking across it!

I first used floor trusses in my own post frame shouse (shop/house) 25 years ago. My trusses were designed so they were only 1-1/2” in width (most spans up to this can be done with a 3-1/2” width), but these 30 foot floor trusses are only 24 inches in depth. They allowed me to create some unique interior areas, without a need for interior columns or load bearing walls.

When we built our post frame barndominium in South Dakota, we utilized floor trusses again – here to span 48’ (yes 48 feet)! We live upstairs in a gambrel building, with a clear-spanned half-court basketball court size garage/shop downstairs!

A few years ago, our oldest son Jake needed a new post frame garage at their home near Knoxville, Tennessee. His mom convinced him this plan would be so much better with a mother-in-law apartment upstairs. We used 4×2 (2x4s turned flat) floor trusses to span a 24 foot width!

I’d forgotten how fast a trussed floor can be done – until Jake ordered them for a second-floor addition he put on his home when he moved back to South Dakota. In a matter of just a couple of hours, I framed this entire 24 by 32 floor by myself and was ready for sheathing. All ductwork and plumbing can be run through open truss webs, making for nice clean ceilings downstairs.

Considering a full or partial second floor in a post frame building? Don’t want posts or bearing walls down below to prohibit full space utilization? Then floor trusses may be your answer.

Make sure to allow adequate height for truss thickness. As a rough rule-of-thumb, I plan upon one inch of thickness, for every foot of span. While it will nearly always be less, it is better to design for having a couple of extra inches, than not enough.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Post Frame Home, About The Pole Barn Guru, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Lofts, Pole Barn Homes, Gambrel, Pole Barn Apartments and tagged shouse, wood crown, wood bow, gambrel building, barndominium, truss webs, floor trusses on January 28, 2020 by admin.

A Shouse in the News

A Shouse in the News!
Casual readers might not understand what a shouse even is. My lovely bride and I happen to reside in an 8000 square foot shouse (combination shop and house) in Northeast South Dakota. (The shouse in this article is not our house.)

Whether shouse, barndominium or merely post frame (pole barn) house – chances are good you will be seeing more and more of them cropping up as people are recognizing their architectural aesthetics, cost effectiveness and ability to be self built.

Photo from Google images
Below is from a December 14, 2019 Park Rapids Enterprise article by Lorie R. Skarpness

“Have you ever seen a shouse? A shouse is a relatively new word for a combination shop and house, and a Nevis resident approached the planning commission recently with a request to build one that is 40 by 60 feet.

Described to the Nevis City Council Monday night as a “glorified man cave with storage,” it would have to meet state requirements to classify it as a living structure.

As far as council members can tell, this is the first such request in the city’s history. The building inspector said the council could make suggestions for the finishing of the building. Plans have not been received for the shouse, but the individual who wants to build it stated he plans to use siding for the exterior.

He also requested having shipping containers approximately 25 feet by 9 feet to store belongings for less than a year while constructing the shouse on a large lot located in a residential zone.
Mayor Jarod Senger said he has friends who built a shouse. “There are some very nice ones,” he added.

“It can be a pole barn that’s like a gigantic garage and they finish off one corner of it with a front door,” council member Jeanne Thompson said. “They come in there to the living space and the rest of it can be storage or a personal woodworking shop they can putz around in.”

Thompson said her concern is the aesthetics of these structures. “If it does look more homelike versus a metal shed someone is living in, all of those logistics,” she said.

Building on the proposed shouse would likely not start until April, if approved.
Council member Rich Johnson suggested the planning and zoning commission look into the proposal and draft some ideas for acceptable finishes for a shouse before proceeding along with an ordinance to cover future requests that may come in.

The Minnesota state building code addresses minimum size issues required for shouses.”

Considering construction of a new home? Give a barndominium or shouse some consideration, you might be surprised. Here is an article with several helpful links for prospective barndominium owners: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/10/show-me-your-barndominium-plans-please/.

Ready to take the plunge? Please call 1(866)200-9657 today and speak with a Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer.

This entry was posted in Pole Building Siding, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure and tagged barndominium, shouse, Nevis, MN, Park Rapids Enterprise, Mayor Jarod Senger on December 25, 2019 by admin.

Barndominium Flooring Over Radiant Heat

Our shouse (shop/house) has radiant in floor heat on its lower level and we love it! (read about it here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/08/radiant-floor-heating/) I encourage anyone who is building a barndominium, shouse, post frame home or even a garage or shop to at least have Pex-Al-Pex tubing placed in any slab-on-grade concrete floors (research Pex-Al-Pex here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/05/pex-al-pex-tubing-for-post-frame-concrete-slabs/).

Radiant heat has many benefits. Walking on heated floors in winter is very cozy. And radiant heat can be very economical.

In Floor Heat System Installation

If you are considering the installation of a radiant heat system, some flooring options work better than others. Here are the top four flooring options for use over radiant heat.

Tile Flooring

Porcelain and ceramic tile are great conductors of heat, so your barndominium gets radiant heating system’s full benefit. In addition, tile flooring will not expand as it warms or contract as it cools. Such expansion and contraction can cause cracking. This is not a problem with tile.

Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring replicates solid hardwood or tile flooring’s look without requiring a huge investment. It also does a great job over radiant heat. Laminate material is built up with layers of wood running in opposite directions. This creates a more stable material than solid hardwood. Laminate won’t expand and contract, in other words like solid hardwood flooring would. Much of our shouse’s second and third floors have oak flooring – we can vouch for it growing in humid weather and shrinking when humidity is low.

Engineered Wood Flooring

Like laminate, it is produced in layers, so it has a more stable base and will not react to heating and cooling processes. Top, or wear layer, is solid wood and comes in all the same varieties found with other solid hardwood flooring. Engineered flooring even comes in bamboo. It looks great, wears great and warms great.

Natural Stone Flooring

Granite, travertine, sandstone and other natural stone flooring types conduct heat wonderfully. You might think of stone as cold, but not when it has warm water flowing beneath it. If you never thought you would like to walk on stone flooring bare-footed in January, you never considered radiant heat!

What Flooring Should Not Be Used Over Radiant Heat?

Carpet has insulation value, so it will prevent some heat from transferring through into your barndominium. You can use a few area rugs, but avoid large rugs or wall-to-wall carpeting. Vinyl flooring is not a good choice either. Heat may discolor vinyl or cause off-gassing of chemicals. Finally, solid hardwood flooring will swell and shrink when heated or cooled, especially in barndominiums using a humidifier during winter. You don’t want to invest in pricey hardwood flooring only to have it cup, buckle, crown and crack.

Planning to install comfortable, efficient radiant heat, your best choices for use with radiant heating are tile flooring, laminate flooring, engineered flooring and natural stone flooring.

This entry was posted in Barndominium, About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Barn Planning, Concrete, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Heating, Post Frame Home and tagged Pex-Al-Pex tubing, laminate flooring, engineered wood flooring, bamboo flooring, natural stone flooring, barndominium, travertine flooring, PEX-AL-PEX on December 13, 2019 by admin.

Flashing Wires and Pipes Through Steel Siding

There are some things one just does not give a lot of thought about and this subject is one where I am entirely negligent. My post frame buildings outside of Spokane are both sided with 1×8 Cedar channel. While it looks great, I would never do it against due to having to solid body stain it repeatedly. Maybe this will be a story for another day?

My negligence?

Not having paid attention to how to adequately and permanently seal pipe or wiring penetrations through roll formed steel siding. I went out and looked at our own steel sided shouse (shop/house) and for our contractors like to use liberal amounts of caulking. I just do not see this as a permanent design solution.

This was a post in one of my Facebook Barndominium groups:

“First this isn’t my building! But I will need to have some piping coming thru the side of my building soon. Also need to think about water spigots, securing them to the building (not just to the metal siding)

How do you penetrate a metal building siding and seal this penetration from water intrusion and/or prevent it from rusting in the future.

I have a hydraulic punch out tool to smoothly cut the size needed (i have up to 4in die’s) but sealing AM<he metal to piping (pvc, metal, copper what have you) is my hold up. I don’t want to just caulk it up, I feel there has to be a better and more long term solution, metal/plastic flashing?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:

There was a suggestion made of a silicone flashing product, however when I visited their website, I was unable to locate any data on exterior use.

There is a product available for sealing pipes going through roll formed steel roofing: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/09/dektite/. I have used them several times and find them to be 100% reliable.

I have spent some time Google searching for a solution similar to Dektites™, but to no avail. Somehow I believe there is a well-hidden product available. If you happen to know of a great solution, please share it with me. It is not often I am stumped – this one has me.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged Dektites, metal flashing, silicone flashing, barndominium, shouse on November 28, 2019 by admin.

Airtight Post Frame Homes and Barndominiums

Back in my 1990’s post frame building contractor days, we constructed a shop for a client near Moscow, Idaho. We probably didn’t ask enough questions up front and our client didn’t provide enough information to adequately prevent what was initially quite a challenge.

After we had completed construction of this building’s shell, our client poured a concrete slab-on-grade. He placed fiberglass insulation in exterior walls, with a well-sealed vapor barrier. Walls and ceiling were sheetrock and insulation was blown into the attic. Heat was provided by a propane heater.

After the building was occupied, our client called us to advise every one of his windows was leaking!

Turns out these “leaks” were a symptom of a larger problem. Our client had sealed his building so tightly, in order to close an exterior door, a window needed to be open. There was no under slab vapor barrier, nor was a sealant applied. His propane heater was not ventilated to an outside source, adding moisture to interior air (and drawing moisture through his slab). With nowhere to exit, moisture was condensing on the insides of his building’s cooler windows!

Owning and operating an airtight post frame home, shouse (shop/house) or barndominium will increase its energy performance and lower its carbon footprint. However, there are certain things one should keep in mind before building a new airtight post frame building.

A post frame building’s envelope consists of its roof, foundation and exterior walls, doors and windows, and this is what keeps indoor and outdoor air from mixing. When a post frame building envelope is not tight, it can lead to air leakage and drafts, decreasing a building’s overall energy efficiency and increasing utility bills. With a sealed building envelope and upgraded mechanical ventilation systems, energy costs can be controlled and a comfortable indoor environment can be created.

Airtight post frame buildings are passive buildings meeting Passivhaus standards for air leakage. This is a residential construction standard requiring very low levels of air leakage, very high levels of insulation, and windows with a very low U-factor. This standard recommends (not requires), a maximum design heating load of 10 watts per square meter and windows with a maximum U-factor of 0.14.

Unlike most United States standards for energy-efficient homes, this standard governs not just heating and cooling energy, but overall building energy use, including baseload electricity and domestic hot water.

These buildings have air leakage rates of less than .60 AC/H @ 50 Pascals (2012 IECC Code allows an air infiltration rate up to 3 AC/H @ 50 pascals). Use no more than 1.39kWh per square foot in cooling energy. Use no more than 4,755Btus per square foot in heating energy, and maintain a maximum entire building energy usage ratio of no more than 11.1kWh per square foot.

Airtight post frame buildings are extremely energy-efficient because mixing of indoor and outdoor air is extremely limited, reducing energy bills associated with heating and cooling. Besides a dramatic reduction in energy bills, expect improvements in building comfort, and whole house and heat recovery ventilation system energy efficiency. Moisture infiltration systems will be reduced.

When post frame buildings are constructed with airtightness and energy-efficiency in mind, it can lead to unintentional problems, like excessive moisture and CO2 levels. Thankfully, most of these problems can be corrected with proper installation of a mechanical ventilation system – condensation on exterior walls and windows, excessive indoor humidity, poor indoor air quality, mold and mildew.

Since airtight post frame buildings do not allow for a transfer of indoor and outdoor air, they need one or more mechanical ventilation systems to help ensure a building receives enough fresh air and indoor air, along with excessive moisture and particulate matter, is properly vented outside. This can be accomplished with fans, air ducts and ventilation control systems with sensors monitoring indoor CO2 levels.

Trained professionals can look at a proposed post frame building’s critical systems, including HVAC, lighting and plumbing, and help determine best upgrades to reduce consumption. These may include custom mechanical ventilation systems and sensors to help control indoor air quality and achieve optimum ventilation.

This entry was posted in About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Barn Planning, Ventilation, Windows, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design and tagged carbon footprint, post frame building envelope, mechanical ventilation systems, Passivhaus standards, window U-factor, barndominium, shouse, airtight post frame homes on November 12, 2019 by admin.

Show me Your Barndominium Plans Please

Like a bunch of little kids exploring differences in body parts – “You show me yours, I will show you mine.” Barndominium, shouse (shop/house), post frame home want to be owners are not far removed from here when it comes to floor plans. In numerous Facebook groups I see this request over and over!

Each family truthfully has their own wants and needs – ones where chances of anyone else’s plans being ideal for them being close to those of winning a major lottery.

Gambrel roof pole barn For those who have been following along, I have covered preliminary steps leading to actually designing a functional and affordable floor plan.

Step number one, determining if a new barndominium is even a financial reality: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/07/how-much-will-my-barndominium-cost/

Once fiscal reality has sunk in – your new barndo will need to be located somewhere: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/08/a-place-for-a-post-frame-barndominium/

And unless you and your significant others have been squirreling away stacks of Franklins or are independently wealthy, financing must be secured: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/07/borrowing-for-a-d-i-y-barndominium/

With all of these steps squared away, it is time to start considering a floor plan. Popular home spaces and sizes need to be determined: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/room-in-a-barndominium/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/the-first-tool-to-construct-your-own-barndominium/.

I read about people in barndominium planning stages looking for free or low cost design software, attempting to put room sizes and orientations together in a fashion making any sort of sense. This becomes daunting and can be an all-consuming struggle, regardless of how many pads of grid paper you own.

Most people are not far removed from reader MARK in WAYNESTOWN who writes:

“Looking for a 3 bed- bath 1/2- open kitchen living room vaulted ceiling concept and maybe with 1 or 2 bedroom loft up top — and 2 car garage in back what size of pole barn should we look for?”

Here is where it is well worth investing in services of a design professional. Someone who can take all of your ideas, those wants and needs and actually craft a floor plan best melding them with the realities of construction.

Hansen Pole Buildings has just this service available and it can be done absolutely for free! Read all the details here and we look forward to continuing to walk with you in your journey to a beautiful new home: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/?fbclid=IwAR2ta5IFSxrltv5eAyBVmg-JUsoPfy9hbWtP86svOTPfG1q5pGmfhA7yd5Q

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Building Styles and Designs and tagged pole building plans, pole barn plans, barndominium, post frame building plans, shouse, pole building design professional on October 23, 2019 by admin.

Planning for a South Carolina Post Frame Home

A barndominium, shouse (shop/house) and post frame home wave is sweeping across America. There are numerous articles available on Hansen Pole Buildings’ website – just click on SEARCH (upper right of any page) and type in BARNDOMINIUM and hit ENTER and relevant articles will appear for your reading pleasure.

Loyal reader LANE in NORTH AUGUSTA writes:

“Hello,

I’m currently planning a post frame home in North Augusta, South Carolina.

I’m planning to build 72x40x16 with a wrap around overhang around one end and part of the front or 84x40x16 with the last 12′ bay open to create the end porch then a lean-to on part of the front.

I’m curious firstly on the shipping. There are a few local businesses here that sell kits and will erect the building as well if desired. How much will freight affect my final cost if I buy from you vs. sourcing it locally? I haven’t gotten any prices from the local companies yet. I decided to reach out to you guys first because I’ve been reading your blog and it seems like you really have this pole building thing figured out. I’m also really interested in the design and plans that you provide. Do these also include the interior walls, plumbing and electrical, or is it just the shell of the building?

I’ve already drawn up a simple floor plan for the living space that really fits our needs so I’d like to incorporate that.

Thank you for your time. Look forward to hearing back.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru answers:
Thank you for your interest in a new Hansen Pole Building. We have wholesale relationships all across America and will ship bulkiest items, in most cases lumber and trusses, from your locale – freight costs will be no more for you, than they would be to any other location.

We would like to believe we have at least a reasonable idea of what pole (post frame) buildings are all about :-). It is all we do, unlike your local businesses who also do other things – we are specialists.

With your investment into any complete post frame building kit are detailed structural plans showing every member and all connections. For those with living areas, we have available an offer for interior floor plans: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/?fbclid=IwAR2ta5IFSxrltv5eAyBVmg-JUsoPfy9hbWtP86svOTPfG1q5pGmfhA7yd5Q. For a nominal fee plumbing and electrical can be provided (a hint – your plumber and electrician will normally provide these at no charge as part of their service).

One of our Building Designers will be reaching out to you shortly to further discuss your ideal new building!

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Building Interior, Budget and tagged HVAC, shouse, pole barn shipping costs, plumbing, electrical, pole barn interior walls, barndominium on October 15, 2019 by admin.

Partially Enclosed Buildings

Partially Enclosed Buildings (and Why It Matters)

I have previously written how a fully enclosed building could be less of an investment than a three sided building – even though a fourth wall has been added: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/03/three-sided-building/

For those of you who neglected to click and read my previous article, consider your building as a balloon, rather than a building. Until tied (enclosing your balloon), your balloon is partially enclosed. More air can enter through its neck and if over-loaded “BOOM”!

From a structural aspect on buildings, force multipliers are applied to adjust wind forces upwards in order to combat “BOOM”. But what actually constitutes a partially enclosed building?

A building is considered “Partially Enclosed” if it complies with both of these following conditions (ASCE 7-10, Section 26.2, “BUILDING, PARTIALLY ENCLOSED”):

the total area of openings in a wall that receives positive external pressure exceeds the sum of the areas of openings in the balance of the building envelope (walls and roof) by more than 10%, AND
the total area of openings in a wall that receives positive external pressure exceeds 4 square feet or 1% of the area of that wall, whichever is smaller, and the percentage of openings in the balance of the building envelope does not exceed 20%

IF EITHER IS NOT TRUE, ENCLOSURE BY DEFINITION IS NOT PARTIALLY ENCLOSED.

On occasion, building officials will assume a building originally designed as enclosed to be partially enclosed if storm shutters are not provided, a conservative worst-case approach, but is defendable by fact there is no written code provision for this and the structure won’t meet the above definition. Also, everything needs to be designed for partially enclosed, roof, connections, walls, foundation, beams, columns, etc. A building won’t stand if only one part of it is designed as partially enclosed and not the rest.

It is possible to have a building appearing to be fully enclosed, when in reality it is not.

How could this occur?

Failure to use wind-rated doors and windows!!

Sliding “barn” doors are not wind rated. Neither are most entry (person) doors.

Most sectional overhead garage doors are not wind rated. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/12/wind-load-rated-garage-doors/

This becomes especially critical in cases of barndominiums, shouses (shop/house) and post frame homes. Many of these have a wall with one or more garage doors. If these doors are not wind rated doors, in an extreme weather condition they could be literally sucked right out of your home, leaving it prone to forces it was not structurally designed for!

Lives are priceless, please do not try to save a few bucks upfront by risking you or your loved ones.

This entry was posted in Building Department, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Building Doors, Sliding Doors, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design and tagged positive external pressure, storm shutters, wind rated windows, wind-rated doors, sliding barn doors, barndominium, Entry doors, shouse, partially enclosed building on October 9, 2019 by admin.

Planning for a Post Frame Home

When it comes to planning for a new post frame home, shouse (shop/house) or barndominium, there are a myriad of questions and concerns to be answered and pondered.

Or, at least I hope you are – rather than just stumbling in blindly!

Reader NICK in NORTH CAROLINA writes:

“Hi, I’m looking into options for building a post frame home in the coming year in NC and wanted to understand more of the details regarding your current building products and suggested techniques.

Do you provide a means to support the posts on top of the concrete pillars with a bracket vs the post being embedded into the concrete?

Your current package only provides for insulation of the roof, no interior walls, correct?

Can another 2×6 skirt board be added to the inside of the building to isolate the concrete flooring from the post and to provide a cavity for insulation to be installed between the outside/inside girts?

Do you have a listing of contractors that are familiar with your products in given areas that could be used to build the structure?

If using the design service listed for $695, does that include the design for all interior walls/rooms/fixtures as well as electrical/plumbing/mechanical?

Thanks for any information you can provide.”

All good questions. In answer to them:

Yes we can provide plans with a third-party engineered design for bracket set columns, as well as brackets. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/05/sturdi-wall-plus-concrete-brackets/

We typically recommend using either a Reflective Radiant Barrier (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2017/05/effective-reflective-insulation/) between roof framing and roof steel, or using roof steel with factory applied Dripstop https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/11/drip-stop/

We can provide batt insulation for walls and/or ceilings, however there are more energy efficient methods of insulating https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/06/pole-barn-insulation-oh-so-confusing/

It (extra 2×6 interior splash plank) could, however there are structural advantages to having columns surrounded (constrained) on exterior splash plank interior. (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/11/importance-of-constrained-posts/) I’d recommend doing a Frost Protected Shallow Foundation post frame style instead: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2017/09/post-frame-frost-walls/

Although our buildings are designed for an average literate English speaking person to successfully construct their own building (most of them do, and do a wonderful job – because they will read and follow instructions), for those who do need an erector, in many areas we can provide contacts for you to vet.

Our floor plan and elevation package offer (http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/?fbclid=IwAR2ta5IFSxrltv5eAyBVmg-JUsoPfy9hbWtP86svOTPfG1q5pGmfhA7yd5Q) includes all interior walls, rooms and fixtures. For an added fee you can include electrical/plumbing/mechanical (note: typically all of these last three services can usually be provided at no charge by subcontractors who will be doing these specific trades).

Please feel free to reach out to me at any time with questions. An answer to most questions can also be found at www.HansenPoleBuildings.com by clicking on SEARCH in the upper right hand corner of any page. Type in a word or two and hit ENTER and up pop relevant articles.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Homes, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Post Frame Home, Building Contractor, Barndominium, Footings, Building Interior, Professional Engineer and tagged barndominium, frost protected shallow foundations, dripstop, reflective radiant barrier, splash plank, shouse, bracket set columns, electrical/plumbing/mechanical on September 27, 2019 by admin.

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