Tag Archives: Rafters

Things Hansen Pole Buildings Does Better Than Any Other Post-Frame Building Provider

Things Hansen Pole Buildings Does Better Than Any Other Post-Frame Building Provider

To those of you who have read my previous 13 articles, this will serve as a recap. For you who have not, please peruse when you have an opportunity.


While manufactured from lumber 157% as strong as what is typically found, they have many other benefits. These include (on pressure treated applications) every lamination being completely saturated with preservative chemicals for in-ground portion and roughly 1/3rd weight of a solid sawn 6×6. Glu-lam columns tend to be highly resistant to warp and twist.


For bracket mounted application, our same ultra high strength glu-lams are available untreated, helping offset costs of our ICC-ESR code compliant wet set brackets.


Not every provider places columns next to every door opening. Not for your doors – either a glu-lam or a bracket mounted kiln dried Douglas Fir timber will support both sides of every door opening!


Fewer defects, pressure treated throughout and kiln dried after treating for lighter weight.


Simpson SDSW16300 screws afford greater strengths and easier adjustments than any sort of nailed connection.


Douglas-Fir is greatly prized for strength and dimensional stability. Less prone to warp, cup, bow and twist than other framing lumber species. 2X8 and 2×10 bookshelf wall girts are PREMIUM graded, minimizing wane (and possible screw misses).


No Utility, Standard, Stud or #3 lumber in Hansen Pole Buildings’ trusses. All material is no less than #2 grade.


Simpson PFDS series hangers slide over pairs of roof trusses and screw to top chords, making for a quick install of hangers as well as connecting chords together at same time.


Wall girts, roof purlins, floor and ceiling joists all have one end uniquely color painted. This immediately allows DIY clients, building erectors and inspectors to quickly identify correct placement of these materials.


Spacing has been standardized to fall so measures are evenly divisible into eight (8) feet. Examples are 32”, 24”, 19.2” and 16”, all of these are keyed to markings on standard tape measures. This also matches with applications of 4’ x 8’ sheet goods (plywood, OSB, etc.).


When endwall overhangs are ordered in conjunction with ceiling joists, interior truss heels are greater (raised) in order to have all truss bottoms at same height above grade.


For rafter applications (side or end sheds, monitor building wings) Hansen Pole Buildings has invested in MSR (Machine Stress Rated) lumber 243 to 266% stronger than #2 grades of Douglas-Fir (even greater in comparison to Southern Pine). This allows for greater spans and fewer pieces needing to be used.


By utilizing higher strength lumber, your second floor can be clear-spanned with roughly one inch of truss depth per 18 inches of truss span. Eliminate a profusion of interior columns and bearing walls, HVAC and plumbing can be run through, creating a flat finished ceiling.


We have cut out middleman wholesalers and retailers buy going direct to mills for multiple truck and rail car loads of lumber – passing these savings on to you!


Our shipping expediters consolidate buildings being shipped geographically to minimize freight investments for our clients.


As lumber comes in two foot lengths and steel roofing and siding in three foot widths, there is already savings to be found in multiples of six feet (less waste). Choose a width in six foot multiples (12’, 18’, 24’, 30’, etc.) and a length of a 12 foot multiple and receive an extra 5% discount!


No one does post frame better than Hansen Pole Buildings – and if you are not yet convinced, watch subsequent articles for even more benefits for you!

Don’t rely upon a builder to look out for your best interests in materials’ selection – take control by ordering from us and pay an erector to assemble,

NEW Hansen Pole Buildings’ Shed and Wing Rafters

NEW Hansen Pole Buildings’ Shed and Wing Rafters

For most people, provided their main building eave height is adequate, placing an attached shed roof on one or both sides seems to be a simple task. With monitor (also known as raised center) style rooflines, shed (wing) roofs are placed on each sidewall, with high end of shed below center eave height.

Well, this is not nearly as simple as one might originally believe.

Main building sidewall and corner columns and their footings, must be engineered to account for roof live (or snow) and dead loads being added by shed/wing roofs. In snow country, drift zone on side of ridge opposite shed/wing become greater in width.

When top of shed comes in below main roof eave height, shed rafters and roof purlins near high end require some added engineering. This is needed to account for both snow sliding off taller roof and for drifting against knee wall created above high end of wing.

Some thoughts on monitor roofs in high snow ca be found here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/05/monitor/

Shed off endwalls have their own unique set of circumstances, as they must be designed to account for snow blowing off entire main roof. This can create tremendous drift loads on top of end sheds. This is one reason to consider an extension of main roofline, rather than an end shed. Other reasons are increased clear height and ease of assembly.

Typically shed/wing rafters had been either as many as two #2 graded dimensional lumber rafters on each side of columns or very expensive LVLs.

By bringing into our inventory very high graded MSR lumber, it allows our engineers to do more with fewer pieces, greatly simplifying construction.

Previously, these rafters were connected to columns by use of a plethora of nails and often required a bearing block to be added below (with even more nails). Now, Simpson SDWS16300 structural screws can be used, greatly reducing number of required fasteners.

Fewer parts, fewer fasteners leading to a quicker to assemble and reliable structural system.

Call 1.866.200.9657 TODAY to participate in “The Ultimate Post-Frame Building Experience”.

And, don’t forget to watch for our next article!

How to Cut Shed Rafters

How to Cut Shed Rafters

Reader MICHAEL in MILACA writes:

Building a Loafing type pole shed, I have a question how to cut the rafters? I am building a 24 x90 loafing shed and I am using a 1-3/4″ x 24″ wide x 28 foot long LVL for the rafters. I do I figure the right field cut for this? I am using a 2/12 roof pitch.”

This excerpt from Hansen Pole Buildings’ Construction Manual should get Michael going:

Chapter 40: Cutting Rafters

Most Common Mistakes:

  1. Failing to learn to use a framing square. 
  2. Ignoring adage to measure twice before cutting.
  3. Overlooking cutting so rafter crown is up when installed.

Using a Framing Square to Mark Rafter Slope

With rafter crown up, place framing square on wide face. See Figure 40-1 

“12” location will be a constant for any roof slope. Adjust other “leg” of framing square to match roof slope needed.

Figure 40-1: Using A Framing Square to Mark Rafter Slope

To determine rafter length, multiply distance traveled horizontally by rafter, by appropriate slope factor from Table 40-1

For other slope factors – multiply slope by itself and add 144. Take square root (use a calculator) of this number and divide by 12.

Example to calculate slope factor for 3.67/12:  [3.67 X 3.67] + 144 = 157.47. Square root of 157.47 = 12.549. Divided by 12 = 1.0457.

Table 40-1                               COMMON SLOPE FACTORS

Roof Slope Slope Factor
2/12 1.0138
3/12 1.0308
4/12 1.0541
5/12 1.0833
6/12 1.118
7/12 1.1577
8/12 1.2019

Example below: 36’ wide pole and raftered “grid” style barn with a 4/12 roof slope.

See Figure 40-2

Figure 40-2: Column Spacing For Grid Barns

Here rafter has an 18’ horizontal distance (1/2 of 36’ building width) times 4/12 slope factor 1.0541 = 18.9738’ (18’ 11-11/16”) See Table 40-2

Feet Inches Feet Inches
      0.9167 11 0.0781 15/16
      0.8333 10 0.0729 7/8
      0.75 9 0.0677 13/16
      0.6667 8 0.0625 3/4
      0.5833 7 0.0573 11/16
      0.5 6 0.0521 5/8
      0.4167 5 0.0469 9/16
      0.3333 4 0.0417 1/2
      0.25 3 0.0365 7/16
      0.1667 2 0.0313 3/8
      0.833 1 0.0260 5/16
0.0208 1/4
0.0156 3/16
0.0104 1/8
0.0052 1/16

Table 40-2

My Drill Stem Pipe Barn Sways in Light Winds

My Drill Stem Pipe Barn Sways in Light Winds

“Recently my husband and I decided we would try building a pole shed row barn for our horses out of structural drill stem pipe. We used 2 7/8 pipe columns on 12’ centers with 2 3/8 pipe columns supporting the (over hang, non-stall) side of the barn. It is 60×24, with 12’ tall center poles and 10’ tall short walls. The rafters are welded 2 3/8 pipe with 6” clips with the 2×6 purlins bolted to them with hex bolts to support the 26g r panel roof. We ended up putting the columns (poles) 3’ in the ground with 1 (and some of them got 2) bags of concrete in the hole with the remaining dirt backfilled. We also had the pad built up after the poles were set so there is about a foot of sand as well. The poles all have a base of red clay. We didn’t know what we were doing so we ended up not doing any footers or anything like that. So my question is, is this sufficient for the columns and if not how do we add support after they’re already up? My concern is this thing falling on our horses. We have significant movement (in my opinion) and racking so far, even after putting the roof on; however, it did get better after the roof went on. I can still shake it if I go to swinging on one of the columns. We can also we some cracking in the ground around the poles when it goes to moving after we’ve been pushing on it. There are no walls on yet, but we plan on adding a wall on each end and possibly the whole backside of the barn where the stalls will go. The front will stay open. Stalls will be welded to the vertical columns using 2 7/8 pipe so the entire structure will end up being held together at the base like it is at the top. I just worry about it buckling somewhere and coming down because we didn’t put our poles in the ground good enough. Please let me know your thoughts and what we can do to provide more strength. I’ll send some pictures so you can understand what I’m talking about. Thanks for any advice 🙏


I will add, we had around 25mph wind gusts today and I did notice it swaying and vibrating some but I wouldn’t have been able to tell if I hadn’t of leaned against one of the poles.”


Many thanks,



Thank you for reaching out to me. Your building has a plethora of challenges, some can be solved, others you will have to make do with best you can.

Although not a current challenge, building upon a red clay base is likely to result in some long term negative consequences. Why would clay be an issue to build upon? Clay expands and contracts depending upon the amount of moisture present. When wet – clay expands, when dry it shrinks. These movements will cause buildings to move as well – not a good thing.

If your intent is for your building to be a permanent long-term structure, my best recommendation is to engage the services of a Registered Professional Engineer who can make recommendations as to how to properly reinforce what you have to make it structurally sound.

Issues include (but may not be limited to):

Lack of adequate concrete backfill/encasement under and around vertical pipes. This can be tackled by digging out around each column down to where you have current concrete and backfilling with more pre-mix. Required diameter can be determined by whomever you hire as an engineer.

Pipe columns may be inadequate in diameter for proper stiffness.

Adding properly engineered walls will increase stiffness. Should you happen to enclose your two ends and a single sidewall, your resultant will be a three sided building and they have an entire set of challenges all their own (for extended reading: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/03/three-sided-building/).

Builder Warranty Example

Example Builder Warranty

Disclaimer – this and subsequent articles on this subject are not intended to be legal advice, merely an example for discussions between you and your legal advisor.

I cannot express strongly enough how important to both builders and their clients to have a written warranty in any agreement. 

WARRANTIES: There is no warranty applicable to the building and is expressly in lieu of all other warranties available under any State or Federal laws, expressed or implied, including any warranty of all labor, material, product and taxes will be paid for and there will be no potential lien claim against Purchaser’s property upon completion of the work and following final payment by Purchaser to Seller.

Products supplied by third party suppliers, manufacturers and sub-contractors to the project are warranted only to the extent that the suppliers and manufacturers of those products provide a warranty.

In the event that a defect is discovered in one of these products, Seller will assist Purchaser in securing repair or replacement of these products under the warranty provided by the third party supplier or manufacturer. Warranty work is work which was correctly and completely done initially, but becomes non-operational or dysfunctional following occupancy or use by Purchaser. No retainage or holdback will be allowed for warranty work.  

Seller expressly warrants to the original noncommercial purchaser(s) and only the original purchasers.  

That if any part of a Seller constructed post frame building, as covered by this warranty, proves to be defective due to materials or workmanship, under normal use and service, for two (2) years, that defective part will be repaired or replaced, subject to the terms and conditions contained in this Warranty.

Seller hereby assigns to Purchaser all rights under manufacturer’s warranties. Defects in items covered in manufacturer’s warranties are excluded from coverage of this limited warranty, and Purchaser should follow the procedures in the manufacturer’s warranties if defects appear in these items. 

 For ten (10) years.

Any solid sawn or glu-laminated (pressure treated to a minimum UC-4B) structural columns that fail due to decay or insect damage, unless said column has been exposed to animal wastes.

The original building roof structure, if damaged directly by snow loads because of the failure of any prefabricated roof truss or trusses to meet design specification. Subjecting your roof system to greater loads than those set out on the face of this Agreement, any unspecified ceiling loads, or modifying the trusses in any way voids all Warranties.

Any major structural defects which are defined as being an actual defect in a load-bearing portion of the building which seriously impairs its load-bearing function to the extent that the building is unsafe. For purposes of this definition, the following items compromise the structure of the building:

  1. Load bearing columns,
  2. Floor or ceiling joists,
  3. Beam, trusses and rafters.

For Two  (2) Years:

Any roof leaks due to defects in material or workmanship, expressly excepting where the building has been connected to an adjoining structure, in roof valleys, or at roof slope changes to which cases, no warranty applies. 

Any other building parts which prove to be defective in material or workmanship.

This warranty period shall commence on the date of the acceptance of the building by the Purchase or Purchaser’s occupancy of the building, whichever comes first.

This warranty contained wherein is void in situations where:

  1. Installation is not made in accordance with the instructions supplied by Hansen Buildings.
  2. The actual operation or use of the product varies from the recommended operation or intended use.
  3. There is a malfunction or defect resulting from or worsened by misuse, negligence, accidents, lack of or improper performance of required maintenance by the original purchaser.
  4. The building is altered or added onto, unless by Seller.
  5. Seller is not notified within twenty four (24) hours of problems due to snow loads.
  6. Purchaser fails to take timely action to or damage.
  7. Anyone other than Seller’s employees or agents or subcontractors have been on the building roof.
  8. Purchaser fails to make final payment per terms of sale.

Equipment such as fans, HVAC, gutters, downspouts, walk door locksets, other equipment not manufactured by Seller, site work, concrete, doors, windows, interior finishes, mechanical or electrical systems are excluded from this warranty.

The Purchaser expressly agrees to fully and timely pursue all available remedies under any applicable insurance agreement before making claim under this warranty.

In the event Seller repairs, replaces or pays the cost of repairing or replacing any defect covered in this warranty for which Purchaser is covered by insurance or a warranty provided by another party. Purchaser must assign proceeds of such insurance or other warranty to Seller, to the extent of the cost to Seller, of such repair or replacement.

Any claims for defects under warranty must be submitted in writing to Seller within the warranty period and promptly after discovery of the claimed defect, describing the defect claimed and date of building completion, before Seller is responsible for correction of that defect. Written notice of a defect must be received by Seller prior to the expiration of the warranty on that defect and no action at law or in equity may be brought by Purchaser against Seller, for failure to remedy or repair any defect about which Seller has not received timely notice in writing.

Purchaser must provide access to Seller, during normal business hours to inspect the defect reported and, if necessary, to take corrective action. A reasonable time should be allowed for inspection purposes. If, after inspection, Seller agrees, at its sole option to repair or replace only the defective materials or workmanship within the first three months from date of building completion at NO COST to the Purchaser. Thereafter Seller shall assume the cost of material and labor for any warranty work upon advance payment by the Purchaser of a one hundred dollar service payment for each incident under this warranty. The obligation of Seller, under this warranty, shall be performed only by persons designated and compensated by Seller for that purpose, and is subject to all other provisions of this warranty.

The provisions of this Warranty are the full and complete warranty policy extended by Seller, and are expressly in lieu of all other warranties, expressed or implied, including any warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. These warranties may not be transferred or assigned. The liability of Seller shall not exceed the cost to Seller for repairing or replacing damaged or defective material or workmanship, as provided above, during the warranty period. 


Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state. 

Purchaser shall promptly contact Seller’s warranty department regarding any disputes involving this Agreement.

Seller and Purchaser agree that this limited warranty on the building is in lieu if all warranties of ability or workmanlike construction or any other warranties, express or implied, to which Purchaser might be entitled, except as to consumer products. No employee, subcontractor, or agent of Seller has the authority to change the terms of this warranty.

Stretching Stick Frame Construction

Post frame (pole building) construction is popular due to efficiencies of materials (ability to do more with less) and speed of construction.

Reader RAYMOND in BARLING is trying to find a way to make stick framing cheaper, he writes:

“24×64 pole barn in question. 4 pitch.  I am just comparing the cost of alternate designs.

Using 2×6 rafters with purlins across top for metal. Can I part from the standard 24 OC of rafters and expand to 30 OC (since more support from purlins)?

Furthermore, is it possible to use 30 OC studs all around, instead of poles (since more support from purlins on walls)

I would really appreciate your wisdom.


Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:

Let’s begin with, “since more support from purlins on walls”. Studs in stick framed walls will not resist wind loads perpendicular to a wall any better due to lateral support from purlins (actually girts) installed horizontally.

Your rafters are also going to be unable to support greater roof loads due to purlins being attached.

Building Codes have prescriptive requirements limiting what can and cannot be done with conventional (stud wall) framing, without having to have a fully engineered building. This would include studs and rafters being no greater than 24 inches on center. They also preclude wall heights of over 12 feet (you did not mention any heights however it should be kept in mind).

International Residential Code (IRC) Table R8702.4.1(1) provides rafter spans for common lumber species with a roof live load of 20 psf (this happens to be Code minimum whether snow is present or not). Being as you are in Arkansas, we will assume the minimum load as well as no ceiling being attached to rafters. With rafters 24 inches on center your rafters would need to be 2×8 #2 Southern Pine at a minimum. You would also need to provide ceiling joists or rafter ties to resist outward push of rafters on bearing walls. In order to get full value from rafters, ratio of rafter ties measured vertically above the top of stud walls to the height of roof ridge would need to be 1/7.5 or less. At a 4/12 slope ridge height would be 55.64″ meaning rafter ties could be located no more than 7-3/8″ above top of stud wall, so plan on then being at least 20 feet in length. A ridge board must also be provided as well as a collar tie, gusset plate or ridge strap (please refer to IRC R802.4.2).

Stud walls also mean you would need to make provisions for structural headers above any opening in any load bearing exterior wall. With post frame construction openings can be placed between columns in exterior walls, eliminating structural headers (this assumes trusses are placed aligned with wall columns with roof purlins on edge).

For stud wall construction, your concrete slab on grade will need to have an appropriately thickened edge in order to support weight of walls, or a continuous footing and foundation will need to be poured.

Ultimately post frame construction, not stick wall construction, is most probably going to be Raymond’s best route to go when considering investment and ease of construction.

Crawlspace Skirting, Adding Spray Foam, and Rafters

Today the Pole barn Guru discusses crawlspace skirting, adding spray foam, and building with rafters instead of trusses.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am planning on building a post frame home with a standard wood framed floor structure. It will have a crawlspace below but will not have concrete stem walls. The building site slopes down, some of the crawlspace may be excavated below grade, some areas will be above grade. Looking for ideas for skirting the crawlspace to provide the most appealing look at exterior side and keep out water and pests. TRENT in WALLA WALLA

DEAR TRENT: In areas where your building’s crawl space would involve excavation below grade, it might behoove you to place a permanent wood foundation between columns (https://www.awc.org/codes-standards/publications/pwf-2015).  In other areas most of our clients have run steel siding down to four inches above grade, just like typical post frame construction.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Looking to spray foam the Hansen pole barn we built.

I have some questions.  We ordered the kit with roof insulation and it was installed when built. I’m thinking of leaving the ceiling open so the trusses are exposed. Can the foam be sprayed over the insulation? If the insulation is removed can the foam be sprayed directly to the roof? If so do I just close off the ridge vent? On the side walls do I just close off the top that opens to the eaves? MARK in MT. AIRY

DEAR MARK: Make sure to use only closed cell spray foam. I have heard arguments both for and against using spray foam against either a weather resistant barrier (such as Tyvek) in walls or a reflective radiant barrier. For this one I would defer to an answer from whomever will be doing your foam application, since they will have to warranty their installation. Certainly you can spray foam directly to inside of steel panels – I did this in a recent addition to my own post frame building home. You will need to close off both vented ridge as well as soffit.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Is it possible to build a pole building roof structure with rafters rather than trusses? FRED in GREENBANK

DEAR FRED: As long as building can have either interior columns, or single sloped (within reasonable span limits) it can certainly be raftered, rather than trussed. Please see this prior article in regards to pole and raftered buildings: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/08/stall-barn/


“Rafter”Spacing, Old Posts, and Electrical Wiring Solutions

Today the Pole Barn Guru answers questions about “rafter” spacing, how to best dispose of old posts, and where to run electrical wiring.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can I place rafters 48” apart on 24 x 40 pole barn with steel roof? DAVE in BAY CITY

DEAR DAVE: I will interpret your “rafters” to be Midwestern casual term for roof trusses. If so and properly designed to support required loads, trusses could be placed every four feet. In order to support roof steel, purlins would need to be laid either across top of, or joist hung in between roof truss top chords.

You should consult with an RDP (Registered Design Professional – architect or engineer) who will be providing plans for your building for determination of required loads, purlin spacing and size.


Ask The Pole Barn GuruDEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a telephone post fence that I no longer want. How to I dispose of it? It is big and heavy. MINETTE in LUCAS

DEAR MINETTE: Whether large or small challenges, or a question doesn’t even pertain to post frame buildings, I do my best to answer them all and give best possible advice.

I’d start with trying to give it away using Craigslist and/or Facebook – you just might find a taker!


DEAR JUSTINE: (Ha ha! Fooled you as reader JAMES questioned Hansen Pole Buildings’ wizardress of all things materials – Justine, who forwarded it to me):

I have a construction question… I need to run wiring in the walls of the pole barn, and I wanted to be sure that drilling through the poles wouldn’t be a problem. I can either run all the wires up into the ‘attic’, then down where they are needed, which wouldn’t require boring holes through the poles, but would use a lot more wire, or I can run horizontally, and bore holes through the poles.

What is the recommended way? Are there limits to how many/large the holes can be?


DEAR JAMES: An article has been written specifically to address your question: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2013/08/electrical-holes/




Attaching Horse Stall Posts to Trusses

Attaching Horse Stall Posts to Trusses – Just Say No!

Horse housing can be a significant piece of pie for post frame (pole barn) builders and building kit suppliers when economies are good. From 2007 to 2012, as U.S. economy tanked, horse populations decreased by 10%! Well, economies are cyclical and with a strong recovery a need  for stall barns has increased.

What surprises me – only a very small number of what I would term “best designed” stall barns – designed with sufficient airflow for healthiest horses, are being built. These buildings do not have prefabricated roof trusses, instead they are built using poles (columns) and dimensional lumber rafters. For more reading about pole and raftered stall barns: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/08/stall-barn/.

I scratch my head when I see clients investing in clearspan buildings to be used for equine housing. I am most familiar with pole and rafter buildings with poles every twelve feet, to accommodate building horse stalls. Reader SCOTT in DAYTON writes in as one of these who now facing some challenges of trying to correctly construct stalls in his clearspan building. He writes:

“I am installing dividers and horse stalls in a clear span structure. Interior posts need to be added two of which will attach to one of the rafters and serve as supports for the dividers and a stall front. Each post will consist of three 2×6 cribbed boards with treated lumber for the below grade pieces. The tops of the posts will be saddles so that I can through-bolt into the rafter. My question is: how do I set these so that they are neither supporting or hanging from the rafter? Do I dig the holes just shallow enough so that the top of the posts will be snug to the rafter or just hang them and fill the holes with concrete? Thanks!”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

Even after nearly 20 years as a Midwest import I am still not used to prefabricated wood roof trusses being referred to as “rafters”. Unless you have prior truss manufacturer engineer sealed approval you should not be connecting columns to truss bottom chords. While it may seem added support of a tightly fitting column might be an assist, under a snow load it may actually place loads upon truss in spots not designed for support and can lead to a catastrophic failure.

You may want to consider using either a solid sawn pressure preservative treated column, or a glu-laminated column with bottoms treated for structural in ground use, as opposed to nailing up a three ply 2×6 column where members can separate over time.

I’d be prone to place columns deep into the ground and completely backfill the holes with premix concrete, stopping columns well below trusses.



A Stone Base Floor? Trusses vs Rafters, and Entry Door Install

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a 40 x 24 pole barn with a 4 inch stone base floor. Can I place 2×4 grid framing 24 in on center with 3/4 inch T&G 4 x 8 sheets for light weight shop usage? No vehicles. JEFF in SYCAMORE

DEAR JEFF: Some ifs – if your site is drained so as to not have excess moisture beneath the building, if the subgrade is thoroughly compacted and if you have a well-sealed vapor barrier underneath, then it might work. Be prepared for the possibility of frost heaving. Both the framing and the sheathing should be pressure preservative treated to a minimum UC-4B level to prevent possible deterioration.


craigslist pole barnDEAR POLE BARN GURU: You compare scissor trusses to conventional trusses, but I see nothing about using beams instead. I’m aware of only one post frame supplier that provides beam systems in lieu of trusses. Are there any down sides to using beams and avoiding trusses all together? RACHEL in ST. LOUIS

DEAR RACHEL: My only guess would be you mean rafters, not beams. Or it could be your intent is a ridge beam supporting rafters. In any case, the answer is going to come down to time, money and reliability. If an alternate system to prefabricated wood roof trusses is to be used, it should most certainly be a design which has been thoroughly reviewed and sealed by a Registered Professional Engineer. Obviously prefabricated wood roof trusses are most highly prevalent because they offer the advantages without the expense of time and labor.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can I install a 36″ steel entrance door before the exterior girts are applied? DONAVON in EAGLE GROVE

DEAR DONAVON: In most cases, the columns on one or both sides of the entry door are trimmed off above the door and supported by a wall girt which runs between two roof supporting columns. If your particular application has framing on both sides of the door which is attached to the roof system, then it would probably be possible to install the entry door prior to the wall girts. I am not seeing any apparent advantage to doing so and it would add to the possibility of inadvertent damage to the door.


Deep Fascia Overhangs

The definition of Fascia from the sum of all human knowledge (Wikipedia):
“Fascia (/ˈfeɪʃə/) is an architectural term for a vertical frieze or band under a roof edge, or which forms the outer surface of a cornice, visible to an observer.

Typically consisting of a wooden board, uPVC or non-corrosive sheet metal, many of the non-domestic fascias made of stone form an ornately carved or pieced together cornice in which case the term fascia is rarely used.

The word fascia derives from Latin “fascia” meaning “band, bandage, ribbon, swathe”. The term is also used, although less commonly, for other such band-like surfaces like a wide, flat trim strip around a doorway, different and separate from the wall surface.
The horizontal “fascia board” which caps the end of rafters outside a building may be used to hold the rain gutter.”

In layperson’s terms, the fascia is the outside member of an overhang which is extended past the eave side (where the rain water drips or snow slides off) off a building.

For most residential structures, the fascia board is a 2×6 or 2×8, which provides an overall fascia height approximating five to seven inches depending upon slope of roof, etc.

Open OverhangsThere are some cases where it is advantageous to increase the height of the fascia, these would include (but are not limited to):
Aesthetics (aka looks) – some people like the look created by a deep fascia overhang.
Supporting signage – on commercial buildings having a deep fascia on the eave side of the building several feet in height can allow for signs for a business or businesses to be placed.

We recently ran across an instance where a client needed to have a tall door in the endwall of his new post frame (pole) building, however his Planning Department had a strict limitation upon the allowable height of building sidewalls.

Enter the thinking caps.
By the creation of a deep fascia overhang, the eave height (read more on how eave height is measured here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/03/eave_height/) was able to be increased by several feet, without the need for longer siding – meeting the strict requirements of the Planning Department!