Tag Archives: Shed roof

Putting Everything Under One Post Frame Roof

Putting Everything Under One Post Frame Roof

I have been an advocate of one larger roof, rather than an enclosed building with a roof only side shed for years. This allows for greater headroom in ‘shed’ area without having to deal with pitch breaks (transition from a steeper slope main roof to a flatter shed roof), making for easier assembly. In almost all instances, this will result in a less costly design solution.

This also happens to be a lesson I have tried to impart upon our Hansen Pole Buildings’ Design Team, however they have been slow to embrace this concept.

Reader RYAN in SUN RIVER writes:

Hansen Pole RV Storage“I have plans to build a 52x48x14 this spring.  The idea is 52×48 roofline 4/12 pitch. Under that roof is a 16×48 open side for rv parking and then 36×48 enclosed with concrete floor.  My original thoughts are to 2×6 stick frame the wall separating the open area from the enclosed area after the pad is poured (any suggestions). 16×12 insulated door and a 4’ man door on the front gable end and a 3’ man door to get in from under the open area towards the rear.

How much would you charge to draw this up with your building techniques?  

I am planning on sourcing materials local but wouldn’t mind a quote from you either.”

I do like your idea of having your enclosed portion and roof only under one gabled roof, rather than a smaller gable over enclosed portion and balance as a shed roof off one side. You gain headroom, it is easier to assemble and usually less costly.

I would frame separation wall with wall girts, rather than stick framing and having to add on horizontal framing to attach wall steel. Code also will not allow for a stud framed wall greater than 10 feet in height without it being engineered. To minimize possibilities of water from your RV area migrating into enclosed areas, your concrete should be two separate pours, with RV parking slab slightly lower at main building wall and sloping away from it.

Your choice of having a four foot wide person door is one you will not regret. For a minimal added investment you will save your knuckles repeatedly. 

As for building plans, we are not a plans’ service, however your investment in a new Hansen Pole Building does come with complete third-party engineer sealed structural plans, along with verifying calculations. This alone will usually save you thousands of dollars in engineering costs, plus you have our roughly 20,000 buildings of experience to arrive at what will be your most practical and cost efficient design.

Why people think they are somehow going to get a “better deal” by sourcing materials locally is beyond my comprehension. We have buying power an average individual (or contractor even) is never going to have, plus our control over materials being provided allows our engineers to be certain what they specify on plans, gets delivered to your building site. Some materials we have produced only for our clients – you cannot buy them elsewhere. 

For continued reading on this subject: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/03/diy-pole-building/

Pole Sizes, Adding On a Shed Roof, and Ridge Vents

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: We live in Pacific county in Washington state and wondering what size of truss pole we would be looking at needing for a 60 ft truss. We are in a wind exposure “C” and trusses will be on 12′ centers. The building we are planning will be 60’w x 48’d with 15′ eve height. Any help will be appreciated.

Thank you,CRAIG in RAYMOND

Concrete slab in a pole barnDEAR CRAIG: There are a plethora of factors which will go into determination of what size columns will work for your or anyone else’s new post frame
building. These include (but are not limited to):

Soil bearing capacity
Embedment depth
If columns will be tied into a concrete slab
Spacing of wall girts
Is building fully enclosed, partially enclosed or a roof only
Slope of roof
If building has a ceiling
Roofing material

When you order your new post frame building package, all of these variables will be factored into the design of not only the columns, but all of the components and your building plans as well as the supporting calculations will be sealed by the engineer of record.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I want to attach a shed roof along the side of my 40 foot pole barn. The span is 12 feet and I plan on the outside of the roof being on 10 ft. high 4×4’s and raising it to a height of 12 ft. on the pole barn. There are 5 6×6’s to line up the 4×4’s to. I was wondering the most cost effective way to attach the metal for the shed roof. I plan on enclosing the sides when funds permit, but for now help with what type of construction, be it wooden trusses or just 2×6 or 2×8 rafters.

Thanks in advance for all your assistance. BEN in TONEY

DEAR BEN: The most cost effective method (as well as structurally correct) will be to discuss your project with a Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer. With your investment in a new post frame building will come plans which correctly size and locate all members as well as detailing all of the connections.

With this said….

The 4×4 columns you propose using will not be adequate to carry even the most minimal of loads which will be imposed by Code.

Your shed will be designed with a single rafter on each end, and rafters on each side of the interior columns. Depending upon the load conditions at your site, expect to see 2×10 or more probably 2×12 rafters. Purlins on edge will be joist hung between the rafters and the roof steel will attach to the purlins with screws.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I paid for continuous roof venting and I got plain 14 in ridge cap can you look in to this? JOE in CLEARWATER

vented-closure-strip

 

DEAR JOE: The steel ridge cap itself does not change for a vented ridge – the foam closure strips beneath the ridge cap provide the ventilation. According to our records, you were shipped the correct vented closures. Please advise if by some chance you did not receive them.