Tag Archives: slab insulation

Perimeter Insulation, a Pine City Builder, and a Failed Concrete Inspection

This week readers “Ask the Guru” about the best way to install XPS insulation around a building perimeter, if we know of someone to build locally in Pine City, and a question about how to fix a failed concrete inspection.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello was wondering if you could answer question for me I want to finish this pole barn and my plan is to run 2 inch XPS 2 feet down and 2 feet out around the exterior perimeter under the splash plank. My question is, is it OK to go directly below the splash plank, then backfill over that up onto the splash plank by a couple inches or should I be running the foam directly on the side of the splash plank and on the inside of the building they ran a treated board horizontally between the columns. I plan to run 2 inch XPS under the entire slab but at the sides should I remove this lower board so I can run it 2 inch XPS on the inside of these splash planks and just pour the floor between the columns right up to that splash plank? They ran their horizontal board even with the bottom of the splash plank.

Thanks for taking the time for me. MARK in CLEAR LAKE

DEAR MARK: We would remove inner board. Slab edge should be insulated. Easiest way to do so is to place foam boards on inside of splash plank, with top edge even with top of future slab. Pour slab right up to foam boards. On exterior, backfill should only go up to bottom edge of splash plank.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: If I bought a kit from you. Is there somebody that would build locally? JEFF in PINE CITY

Hansen Buildings Construction ManualDEAR JEFF: Hansen Pole Buildings is America’s leader in providing fully engineered, 100% custom designed, post frame building and barndominium kits, with multiple buildings in all 50 states. Your new building kit is designed for the average physically capable person, who can and will read and follow instructions, to successfully construct your own beautiful building shell (and most of our clients do DIY – saving tens of thousands of dollars – need a builder, we can probably help you there too https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/builder-terms-conditions/). We’ve had clients ranging from septuagenarians to fathers bonding with their teenage daughters erect their own buildings, so chances are – you can as well! Your new building investment includes full multi-page 24” x 36” structural blueprints detailing the location and attachment of every piece (as well as suitable for obtaining Building Permits), the industry’s best, fully illustrated, step-by-step installation manual, and unlimited technical support from people who have actually built post frame buildings. Even better – it includes our industry leading Limited Lifetime Structural warranty! We would appreciate the opportunity to participate in your new pole building. Please email your building specifics, site address and best contact number to our Design Studio Manager Caleb@HansenPoleBuildings.com 1.866.200.9657 Thank you.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: My steel building foundation failed inspection. We unfortunately poured concrete then called the inspector. They require us to cut the pad and add concrete columns down each side with anchor plates. My question is what type of anchor plates do I need to look for and how do they attach to my steel building track that sits on the cement pad. I think they need to allow for some movement due to frost as well. ERIC in YOUNGSTOWN

DEAR ERIC: You will need to reach out to either your building provider or, if you hired a foundation engineer, your engineer.

 

Posts, Trusses and Costs, Slab Thermal Movement, and a Name

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about use of one’s own posts, metal vs wood trusses, and cost of trusses, sealer for slab thermal movement, and what the proper name of a garage, storage, and living quarters would be.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: The barn is to be built in 78594. 60x40x15 with 12′ side extensions.
1. I want to use my own posts for the frame.
2. What trusses can be obtained (metal vs wood) for the roof?
3. What would the trusses cost for the barn in material? LESLIE in SEBASTIAN

DEAR LESLIE: In answer to your questions…

1) Why would you want to use your own posts, when we have available and affordable stronger glulaminated columns than anywhere else in America? https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2024/04/new-hansen-pole-building-roof-supporting-columns/

2) Having spent well over four decades deeply involved with prefabricated wood trusses, I have some direct experience. As far as cost – because we manufacture wood trusses in our plant and ship them with your lumber, they are more cost effective than steel trusses. Our steel trusses are manufactured in Tennessee, so you have two sets of freight costs. If freight was not a factor, it is probably a toss up for costs.

Wood trusses are subject to very strict quality control standards. Every span, of each and every order, must have quality control reports to document correct size, grade and species of lumber as well as correct thickness and dimensions of steel connector plates. Random third-party quality control inspections are done, to verify trusses being produced meet or exceed what is specified on engineer sealed truss drawings. Steel trusses, somehow have escaped this level of quality control (even though Building Codes specify third party inspections must be done).

3) We only provide trusses along with our complete building packages, please call Brenner at (605)432-8981 Monday morning to further discuss your building wants and needs.

 

Screeding ConcreteDEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am getting ready to pour a concrete slab in my 24’x30′ pole barn. I calculated the thermal contraction along the 30′ length to be just over 1/8″. Would it be a good idea to install a foam sill sealer type material onto the inside of the grade boards to accommodate any thermal movement of the slab? DAVID in WESTFIELD

DEAR DAVID: I would be placing R-10 rigid insulation vertically (at least down two feet), attached to inside of my pressure preservative treated splash, with top of insulation even with where top of slab will be. As far as thermal movement goes, this is why expansion joints are placed at 24 to 30 times thickness of slab. As an example a nominal four inch slab (3-1/2 inch actual), should have expansion joints every seven to eight feet.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: O great pole barn genius, what would I want to store an RV, also be at least a 2 car garage, and workshop, with a couple finished rooms for living quarters? What’s that beast called, and what should I budget for it low/high in KY? KIM in PAYNEVILLE

DEAR KIM: Thank you for your oh so kind words, I am humbled. As far as naming it – yours would be my first choice, some would call it a barndominium (especially if it has a kitchen and bathroom), others a shop house. Fully engineered post frame, modest tastes, DIY, budget roughly $75-85 per sft for conditioned spaces, $35 for all others. Does not include land, site prep, utilities, permits. Your Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer, Brenner Carlson will be reaching out to you to provide some firm numbers.

Slab Insulation, Vapor Barriers, and Sliding Doors

Today’s PBG addresses slab insulation, vapor barriers and sliding doors at an entry.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am starting a project finishing a Hansen pole barn in a suburb of Minneapolis. My question is in regard to the floor. I assume there was no insulation under the slab, I have yet to confirm this, so how do I insulate after the fact? Are sleepers my only option?

Thank you for your time. CHRIS in MINNEAPOLIS

DEAR CHRIS: Whether before pouring slab or after, I’d go with a Frost-Protected Shallow Foundation https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/11/frost-protected-shallow-foundations/.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Contractors installed vapor barrier on the roof but not walls. What is the best way to install a vapor barrier now that the metal siding is up? JASON in ROCKVILLE

DEAR JASON: I usually recommend using a Weather Resistant Barrier between siding and wall framing (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/01/determining-the-most-effective-building-weather-resistant-barrier-part-1/). Given where you are now – if chances of climate controlling your building are small, you can spray two or more inches of closed cell foam insulation. If you intend to heat you can entirely fill insulation cavity with unfaced fiberglass and then put clear visqueen on interior as a vapor barrier.

 

Dear Pole Barn Guru: I’m in the process of putting up a shop at my house. The front has a 20×12 opening and was planned to have sliding wood doors as the front will be bricked to match my house. Can you give me tips on how to effectively anchor this and will I need a backup door on the inside to seal out the elements? I don’t want big gaps so that animals and critters can easily make their way in. The building is in the middle of a bean field and it will have spray foam insulation. Thanks for the help! MICHAEL

DEAR MICHAEL: Sliding doors are not going to seal anywhere near air tight. How about going with an insulated carriage house style overhead door? It will give you a great look and be functional. Hansen Pole Buildings can provide a broad variety of carriage house doors with our complete post frame building packages. http://www.amarr.com/residential/garage_doors/carriage_house