Tag Archives: galvalume

Boral Steel Stone Coated Roofing

Boral Steel® Stone Coated Roofing

Boral Steel® Stone Coated Roofing is manufactured from Galvalume® steel, then coated with stone granules applied with acrylic polymer adhesives. Result is a lightweight (1.5 psf – pounds per square foot) durable and cost-effective roofing system offering superior strength of steel and is ideal for new post frame barndominium or shouse (shop/house) construction. Boral Steel® is also 100% end of usable life recyclable..

Boral Steel® product’s natural aesthetic is ideal for pairing with barndominiums of all architectural styles, from Mediterranean to Contemporary and Transitional. This material is offered in numerous profiles and colors, providing a wide array and variety to satisfy even the most discerning of barndominium owners. Popular options mimic traditional shake, slate, tile, and shingle roofing.

When selecting any roof, it’s of paramount importance to consider regional climate and identify weather conditions most likely to occur where you are installing your roof. Storms, fire, hail, snow, and wind are all significant challenges for any roofing material. Good news is Boral Steel® roofing product installed with proper underlayment and attachment process helps provide safety, comfort, and protection from most severe climate conditions.

Stone coated steel roofing is one of the best possible materials for withstanding devastating hailstorms impacting many of our country’s regions, providing a highest possible UL-listed, Class 4 UL impact rating.

Stone coated steel roofing panels are proven to resist wind speeds in excess of 120 miles per hour, making this roofing solution ideal in regions where high winds occur, such as Florida, Hawaii and Caribbean coastal markets.

With its steel composition, Boral Steel® product can notably carry more weight attributed to snow loads than other roofing options. Additionally, due to stone coating, snow will not slide off a Boral Steel® roof as is common with alternative standing-seam metal roofs. Because snow melts slowly on a stone coated steel roof into your roof’s gutter system, it creates peace of mind with a safer roof perimeter.

Boral Steel® roofing product helps offer protection in severely cold climates where ice damming is problematic. These roof systems provide an “above sheathing ventilated” (ASV) space across the entire roof deck. This horizontal and vertical air space provides above-deck air flow and insulation helping mitigate ice damming and icicle formation issues common in heavy snow areas.

As shown by testing results to ASTM-E108, stone coated steel roofing also helps protect structures from fire spread. Boral Steel® product offers a Class-A fire rating when used with specific underlayment materials, providing extra protection from wind-driven embers, common during urban firestorms.

Total cost to install a product is the first factor many barndominium owners consider, so let’s see if stone coated steel roofing is in your budget. Note one square = 100 square feet.

  • Material Costs: $400-$550 per square for shingles, shakes and tiles and underlayment, fasteners, ridge cap, trim and other accessories required
  • Installation Costs: $450-$900 per square depending on factors affecting cost, as listed below

Total Installed Cost: $850-$1,450 per square.

While this seems like a broad price range, the range for asphalt shingles can be even broader. Best asphalt shingles can cost 3-4 times the cheapest option.

Did you know? Many online cost estimators fail to consider trim cost, underlayment, fasteners and other accessories, permitting, disposal and removal fees, etc., so their cost estimates can be inaccurately low.

Itemized Materials Cost
There’s a lot more to a roofing system than stone coated steel panels. Here’s a list of materials with their average costs.

Materials priced per square:

  • Roof decking: $100-$135
  • Sound-proofing underlayment designed for metal roofs: $75-$125
  • Stone-coated steel roofing panels (shingles, shakes, tiles): $175-$375
  • Battens (used on some roofs to create a grid to nail roofing material to): $45-$75
  • Fasteners: $3.00-$4.50

Materials priced per linear foot:

  • Moisture barrier (Ice-and-Water Shield) for valleys/eaves/rakes: $1.50-$2.75
  • Drip edge: Up to $1.25
  • Ridge vent, typically installed on both sides of ridge with center open: $3.35-$5.50
  • Stone coated steel ridge, hip, and rake cap to match shingles/shakes: $6.00-$9.00
  • Flashing and fascia: $2.00-$4.50

Factors Affecting Cost

No two stone-coated steel roofing projects are the same. Each has materials and installation variables to consider.

Material cost factors:

  • Style: Specific type of panels include shingles (lowest cost) to shakes (moderate cost) to barrel-style Spanish/Roman/Florida tiles (highest cost)
  • Panel thickness: Steel gauges range from 28-gauge (thinner) to 24-gauge (thicker), and thicker materials cost more
  • Type of coatings: Stone coated steel roofing is coated on both sides with various materials to improve resistance to corrosion and loss of stones.
  • Batten vs. Batten-less (direct-to-deck): Battens are installed in most applications. Installation without battens, or direct-to-deck installation, is possible, too.

Did you know? In high-wind areas such as High Velocity Hurricane (HVHZ), batten-less installation with stone coated steel roofing nailed directly to the roof deck is recommended because it holds material more securely. This factor affects installation costs too.

Minimum Steel Substrate Coating

Minimum Steel Substrate Coating for Residential Steel Roof Panels

When it comes to residential buildings – whether your barndominium or shouse (shop/house) is stick frame (stud walls), post frame, PEMB (pre-engineered metal building) or some other structural system with a steel roof, there is one import aspect of this roofing material frequently overlooked.


Most popular metal roofing steel substrates are Galvanized and Galvalume. Galvanized substrates are coated in zinc, while Galvalume substrates are coated with an alloy of zinc plus aluminum. Both Galvalume and Galvanized are good substrates for metal panels. 

With Galvanized substrates, greater zinc amounts mean greater protection against panel corrosion. Two commonly used Galvanized substrates are designated as G100 and G60. These designations relate to the total amount of zinc contained on both sides of panel surfaces. G100 contains 1.0 ounce of zinc for every one square foot of panel while G60 substrates contain 0.6 ounces of zinc. This means a G100 substrate contains 66% more protective zinc than a G60 substrate. This difference will have a direct correlation to panel longevity and long-term aesthetics of your barndominium.

For most applications, a Galvalume substrate offers best long-term solutions, and Galvalume’s superior performance has been field proven. Over four decades of testing has shown Galvalume delivers superior corrosion resistance compared to Galvanized panels. In fact, Galvalume’s construction industry performance  has been so superior, steel mills warranty it against rupture, perforation, or failure due to corrosion. Similar warranties do not exist for Galvanized.

In one test, unpainted Galvalume and Galvanized panels were placed in four different types of outdoor environments, including normal marine and a rural setting. After 23 years of side-by-side comparison in all areas, Galvalume was two to four times more durable than Galvanized.

For extended reading on Galvalume: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2013/04/galvalume/

SO what does all of this have to do with your new barndominium?


Building Codes (IRC – International Residential Code and IBC – International Building Code) address substrate requirements for steel roofing.

IRC Table R905.10.3(2) requires a minimum of AZ 50 for 55% aluminum-zinc-alloy-coated steel (Galvalume) or G-90 for Galvanized steel. These same requirements can be found in IBC Table 1507.4.3(2).

What is absolutely amazing is – America’s largest roll former (at least in terms of quantity of machinery) has this on their website for their 29 gauge panels, “…..perfect for residential roofing….”, however when one digs deeper on this website, this panel has only G-60 galvanization, meaning it cannot be used for roofing on anything other than “U” buildings by Code. Only an upgrade to this manufacturer’s 28 gauge “Pro” product will meet residential Code requirements!

Be an educated buyer – know what you are investing in and be certain it is indeed Code conforming. Chances are your contractor, kit provider or maybe even your roll former is unaware.

Storage of Steel Roofing and Siding Panels

Storage of Steel Roofing and Siding at the Job site 

All steel roofing and siding panel bundles are inspected and approved by manufacturer’s quality control inspectors before shipment. Inspect panels for any moisture content or shipping damage upon delivery and advise the materials carrier immediately.

Bare (non-painted) Galvalume sheet, like galvanized, is subject to wet storage staining and turns gray to black if moisture is trapped between coil laps, cut length sheets, or roll formed parts during shipping and storage. Steel mills treat Galvalume sheet to delay wet storage staining; however, take precautions to keep Galvalume sheeting dry at work site.

Jobsite storage of steel building panels (provided by Building Products Technical Committee of National Coil Coaters Association):

Two Rules to Live By:

1)  Keep job site storage time to a minimum with proper scheduling

2)  Keep panels dry.

“Moisture trapped within panel bundles can cause the finish to soften and become more susceptible to erection handling damage. Panels stored wet for extended periods in humid conditions will oxidize (rust). Such damage is avoidable with proper planning and practice.

Panel bundles should be stored under a roof  or at least, out of direct sunlight. Bundles should be slanted at an angle [from end to end] sufficient to facilitate drainage and high enough off the ground for good air movement all around. Do not use tight-fitting plastic-type tarpaulins as panel bundle covers. While they may provide protection from heavy downpours, they can also delay necessary ventilation and trap heat and moisture causing the so-called “greenhouse effect” that accelerates corrosion. Long panels must have additional support to prevent sagging and potential water accumulation in the sag.

If panel bundles arrive wet or become wet at the job site, break them open and allow them to dry completely.”

When moisture is found, besides breaking apart bundles, drain each panel and wipe dry. After dried, carefully re-stack panels and loosely recover allowing for ample air circulation.

Extended panel storage in a bundle is not recommended. Prevent bundled sheets from being in contact with accumulating water. Under no circumstance store sheets near or in contact with salt water, corrosive chemicals, ash, or fumes generated or released inside a building or nearby plants, foundries, plating works, kilns, fertilizer, and wet or green lumber.

Steel Roofing with Condenstop or Dripstop And Jobsite Storage  

Warning: Storing panel bundles prior to installation could allow moisture to become trapped between panels and may cause damage to panels. This moisture can originate from a variety of sources such as rain, high humidity or condensation. Panels should be stored in a dry location and installed as quickly as possible when arriving at the job site to prevent damage. If this is impossible, proper consideration should be given to separate panels to allow for air circulation prior to installation. Allowing moisture to become trapped within panel bundles can void all panel warranties.

What Color Steel Roofing is Coolest?

Welcome to Ask the Pole Barn Guru – where you can ask questions about building topics, with answers posted on Mondays.  With many questions to answer, please be patient to watch for yours to come up on a future Monday segment.  If you want a quick answer, please be sure to answer with a “reply-able” email address.

Email all questions to: PoleBarnGuru@HansenPoleBuildings.com

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m building a house with steel roofing with Galvalume. Is the painted cooler than the shiny aluminum with no paint? What color should I use? Thank you MIKE

DEAR MIKE: If the idea is to create a “cool roof” then you want a product with high solar reflectance as well as high thermal emittance. The difference in energy performance is due to more than just the color of the steel roofing. The paint which the coil coating companies apply to the steel has added chemicals which are designed to reflect infrared wavelengths. As such, painted steel roofing is the answer to your question, and the best performer will be white.

Mike the Pole Barn Guru

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am building a 40’x64′ pole building currently and have encountered an issue with my holes.  I have augered 24″ diameter holes 5 feet deep and poured between 12″ and 16″ of concrete in the bottom of each depending on overall hole depth.  During augering I encountered rocks that sent the bit off course.  The result is 2 of my 28 posts just barely fit into the holes and consequently only sit on the edge of the concrete slab in the bottom (no precast cookies here).

Have I negated the advantages of augering larger holes and pouring concrete by only sitting on the edge with the column?  If so, what’s the best way to remedy this?  Or, do you think I am ok to proceed and the concrete will still do its job?

Thanks, truly enjoy your information. AARON IN GILLETTE

DEAR AARON: The generally accepted school of practice says there should be at least four inches of the concrete footing extending past any point of the columns. By having the load so far off center, it could cause the footing to ‘tip’ downward beneath the column and result in settling. If the two holes in question are off in the same direction, you might consider shifting the building slightly to compensate. Otherwise, you could enlarge the two holes to allow for an extension of diameter in the direction which is a problem.

Mike the Pole Barn Guru

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Is there an issue with a flat 2×6 sagging if has a really large window unit on it? Thanks, BEN IN HUGUENOT

DEAR BEN: Thank you very much for your question. Prior to the siding being installed, there is a possibility the girt below it could sag. This can be remedied by placing one or more vertical blocks temporarily between the pressure preservative treated splash board and the girt below the window. This will hold the girt level, until siding can be installed. Once the siding is in place and properly fastened, the girts will be fully restrained from movement.

Mike the Pole Barn Guru

Galvanized Steel for the Golden Gate?

What if the Golden Gate Bridge Had Been Hot-Dip Galvanized?

For those of you who are reading my articles for the first time, I will warn you – I am a little bit of a structures nut. I really want to know about how things work and are assembled, and why. Besides being a structures nut, I also am a voracious reader, which means I’ve been gifted numerous books on and about structures over the years.

Among my favorites is David McCullough’s 1983 epic, The Great Bridge: The Epic Story of the Building of the Brooklyn Bridge (available at: https://www.amazon.com/The-Great-Bridge-Building-Brooklyn/dp/067145711X). Another favorite (and far shorter reading) is Donald MacDonald’s 2008 Golden Gate Bridge: History and Design of an Icon (also available at: https://www.amazon.com/Golden-Gate-Bridge-History-Design/dp/0811863379).

I’ve walked across both bridges, and biked as well as competitively run across The Golden Gate Bridge, so my familiarity with each is more than just book learning. Living in a world where galvanization is quite common, I had never actually pondered the question, What if the Golden Gate Bridge had been hot-dipped galvanized steel, until reading an article of the same time written by Philip G. Rahrig, Executive Director of the American Galvanizers Association (read it here: https://designandbuildwithmetal.com/featured-articles/2015/02/12/what-if-the-golden-gate-bridge-had-been-hot-dip-galvanized?sthash.DTrYSBHG.mjjo).

Golden Gate BridgeI was astounded to learn the savings using time value of money would place the true savings to taxpayers of close to a billion dollars!  I read where there is a team of something like 37 painters who work on the Golden Gate repainting it…full-time!

But how does the Golden Gate Bridge relate to pole (post frame) buildings? One of the prime goals of pole building design is to be as close to maintenance free as possible – lending towards the prevalent use of pre-painted galvanized steel or galvalume steel roofing and siding.

As a case study – I have two pole buildings at home, each with 1×8 Cedar Channel siding and steel roofs. The siding has had multiple applications of solid body stain, which equates to lots of time and money spent over the years for maintenance. It tends to look great for a few years, and then over time, begins to show a “need for some TLC”. On the other hand, the pre-painted galvanized steel roofing has never had a cent spent on it since construction (and always looks great) and will continue to perform without repainting until my grandchildren inherit our house

Steel Siding and Zinc

Galvanization refers to the coating of steel with zinc.  This is done to prevent rusting of the steel. The value of galvanizing stems from the corrosion resistance of zinc, which, under most service conditions, is considerably greater than steel. The zinc serves as a sacrificial anode, so it cathodically protects exposed steel. This means even if the coating is scratched or abraded, the exposed steel siding or roofing will still be protected from corrosion by the remaining zinc – an advantage absent from paint, enamel, powder coating and other methods. Galvanizing is also favored as a means of protective coating because of its low cost, ease of application and comparatively long maintenance-free service life.

The earliest cold roll formed steel siding and roofing panels were unpainted galvanized steel.

Sharon Glorioso writes in a Metal Roofing Magazine article:

zinc roofing“It’s common to find zinc roofs that have been in service for more than 100 years throughout the major cities of Europe.  For example, the famous German architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel (1781-1841) used zinc extensively for roofing and building ornamentation on several historical buildings and palaces, which still stand today.

The latest example of the longevity of zinc involves the renovation of St. Catherine’s Church in Reutlingen, Germany.  The church was built in 1890 in Gothic Revival style and utilized large portions of zinc tile roofing.  After approximately 120 years, it was determined that a restoration was needed.  The craftsman Wolfgang Huber was commissioned to conduct an assessment of the roof and a study to determine the feasibility of reusing the historic zinc tiles.  Huber, along with an industrial climber, ascended the roof and spires for a personal, up-close inspection of the effects of weathering and previous repair attempts.  “This climbing technique is a cost-effective method of accurately determining damage and planning the remediation,” Huber said.

The restoration plan called for dismantling and removing all zinc tiles for inspection and cleaning and salvaging as many tiles as possible.  Tiles determined to be too damaged for reuse were recycled.  The original tiles on the eastern portion of the roof, which was not exposed to the main west wind and weather were nearly all reusable.  Located at the old cemetery in Reutlingen, the church building has now been preserved to nearly its original state in 1890.

Two distinct but related attributes of zinc in buildings are major factors in its environmental performance: durability and recyclability.  The widespread application of zinc in roofing and wall cladding began in the 19th century.  These were often civic buildings and cathedrals–built to last for generations.  Today, zinc products used in architectural construction have an extremely long service life: an estimated 80 to 100 years for roofs and 200 to 300 years for walls.”

While most steel siding and roofing panels are now factory painted steel, the base coating beneath the paint is still either galvanized, or galvalume® (for more information on Galvalume®: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2013/04/galvalume/). For longevity and value combined with lifespan, steel siding and roofing just cannot be beat by any other product.

Having Fun with Pole Building Competitors

“Here at xxxxxx (pole building company) we represent the top quality building companies in the business and build every building with pride. Our trusses are set on 4’ or 5′ centers, unlike many post-frame builders that set their trusses on 8′ or 10′ centers in order to cut costs. The trusses are an important part of a building’s integrity. The more trusses you have, the better the structural integrity. Our trusses are engineered with a 25-lb/psf-snow load rating and a 125 mph wind load rating standard. They are built to withstand the extreme weather conditions that you may encounter in the Mid-West. Several other companies will either build their trusses on the job site or they send a standard factory built truss that was never engineered properly or just to I.B.C. Code 2006 which is only 17.1 lb/psf snow load rating and 90 mph wind load. We also run our end posts all the way up to the top of the building rake, rather than stopping at the ceiling joists and using a “dummy” truss. This gives our buildings greater structural integrity, as well as a higher wind load resistance. Add in our secondary framing known as rat run this gives you a superior quality building. We also use only Prime 40yr Rated Galvalume Paint American Made Metal for our exterior as well as American Made Screws not cheaper foreign brands or nails. We “NEVER” use sheet metal known as “seconds”, which typically does not carry a manufacturer’s warranty. We use solid posts that are fully treated to a .60 value or in laymen’s terms 60%, unlike other companies that will only use treated .40 lumber in the ground and untreated lumber above the ground. These posts typically consist of 2x6s that are glued or nailed together; therefore the strength is only as good as the glue or the nails. We set our posts 3′ (minimum) into the ground for a more solid footing and to ensure that the post is below the frost line.

Now as an average consumer, and potential new post frame building owner, all of this might sound pretty darn impressive.

My mission – to make every potential pole building shopper a knowledgeable shopper. Let’s get past the “top quality” and “pride” and deal with the facts. Please read on……

Truss spacing is not done with the idea of cutting costs. There are many pole building companies, as well as registered design professionals (engineers and architects), who are of the opinion post frame buildings are structurally more sound when the trusses are directly aligned with the building columns below them, rather than placing the trusses at closer spacings which dictate the need for structural headers between the columns – more pieces, more connections, more possibility of a failure.

To learn lots about truss spacing, loading and design, read my article in Structural Building Components magazine: https://www.sbcmag.info/sites/sbcmag.info/files/Archive/2011/may/1105_barn.pdf

The quantity of trusses in a building has nothing to do with a building’s structural integrity. A building with a large number of under designed trusses is not going to be stronger than a building with fewer properly designed trusses.

While they may (and I use “may” liberally) be ordering trusses designed for a 125 mph (miles per hour) wind load, unless every other component and connection in the building is being designed to this same standard, it is merely a waste of money.

Actually, every version of the IBC (International Building Code) from 2000 up to the most recent version in 2012 allows for trusses to be Code conforming for top chord loads as low as 12 psf (pounds per square foot) provided the requirements for design ground snow load (Pg) is low enough, and the area supported by the trusses is great enough.

A truss is a truss, in my nearly four decades of prefabricated roof truss experience (owned and manufactured trusses for many years), I have never heard of a “dummy” truss. Need a term, make it up?

“Rat runs” are merely a term for the lateral bracing of the roof trusses which is required by the Building Designer to adequately brace the trusses. They are not creating a “superior quality building”, as this bracing is required in order to be Code conforming.

The paint used on colored steel is not Galvalume. Galvalume is the protective coating used on the bare base steel to keep it from rusting.

Read more about galvalume here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2013/04/galvalume/

Pressure treating is not a “value” nor is it a “percentage”. The term .60 refers to the minimum weight of preservative chemicals which are added per cubic foot of lumber. Different types of chemicals require different amounts of chemicals. The important criteria for structural in ground use of columns, is for them to be treated to a UC-4B specification.

In laymen’s terms 60%” just reinforces my belief of this particular company not truly having a grasp of what pressure treating specifications are all about.

Read more about proper pressure treatment of lumber here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2012/10/pressure-treated-posts-2/

I’ve written at length about nailed and glued, as well as true glu-laminated columns. Find out more at: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2012/08/nailed-up-glulam-columns/



Hansen Pole BuildingsConsidering ordering a pole building kit package from anyone other than Hansen Pole Buildings? Or, hiring a contractor to construct any building other than one of ours?

Email me at PoleBarnGuru@HansenPoleBuildings.com with the link to their website as well as with any literature and quotations provided (if they have terms and conditions printed on the back of a sales agreement, make sure to send them as well). I will – at no charge – give you an objective opinion of whether you are getting a great or a not-so-hot deal, as well as pointing out any potential pitfalls I see.  I am not debating any costs at this point…just trying to educate the public. Hopefully I can contribute to you being a well-informed buyer – wherever you choose to purchase a new pole building.