One of the great things about post frame (pole) building construction is the ability to add interior raised spaces (think lofts, mezzanines and second stories). One of the most overlooked things about adding such space is proper engineering design. In general I have found them to be inadequate to support the loads. This can result […]Read More
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you folks do business in Canada? Thanks JOANN IN THE GREAT WHITE NORTH DEAR JOANN: We do not ship to Canada, however you and our other Canadian friends can pickup buildings at any of our distribution points along the southern side of the border. All of our buildings will be […]Read More
When things appear to be going from bad to worse The original question was posed by the reader, Jimmy, as to the adequacy of materials supplied to construct his new pole barn (by a builder, not a Hansen Pole Building). His story first appeared in my column just a few days ago. Here is Round […]Read More
When Everything Doesn’t Go Perfect (and the sky falls) Part II To refresh your memory a bit, we had a client recently email us a letter outlining some of his challenge in getting his building project going. Read yesterday’s blog for Part I of this client’s challenges with his building project. Nothing but problems seemingly […]Read More
When Everything Doesn’t Go Perfect (and the sky falls) The key to any successful construction project is not necessarily how everything went perfect, but instead it is how the things which did not go perfect were resolved. When one considers the average post frame building kit package materials have been touched by in excess of […]Read More
Another excellent question from a soon to be new post frame (pole building) owner. DEAR POLE BARN GURU: The materials just arrived for my pole barn and construction is to start on Monday. The building will be 30×40 with attic trusses with an 8/12 pitch, 24 inches on center with a 1ft overhang (there is […]Read More
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Planning on building a 24′ x 48′ structure in central southern Pennsylvania What type of foundation would be required? MIKE IN ERIE DEAR MIKE: Thank you very much for your question. Here is some background from the Hansen Buildings Learning Center: Pole Building Foundations The most practical and cost effective […]Read More
I’ve espoused previously on the joys of hydronic radiant floor heating (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/08/radiant-floor-heating/) and would encourage anyone who is going to install a concrete slab on grade in their new (or existing) post frame (pole) building to consider at least making a provision for it in the future. As we all realize, once a concrete floor […]Read More
My early days of post frame (pole) buildings came in the Pacific Northwest. In the early years, rarely did buildings have any overhangs…at least not beyond a few inches of roof steel extending past the siding. When building did have overhangs, they were always “open”. Open, in this sense, did not mean birds and other […]Read More
We get a few requests for quotes from clients every day – actually more like a few hundred. With this volume of inquiries, it goes to figure we see and hear a broad variety of ideas. One of the more popular ones is clients who want a 16 foot tall eave height and a loft […]Read More
One Foot And it isn’t the left or the right one! Actually the one foot I have in mind is the difference in width between a standard 36 inch width entry door and a 48 inch wide one. Oh what a difference the extra foot makes! And most of the difference is not in cost. […]Read More
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello, I have a steel shop (30×50) that I need to have the existing roll up door (10×12) removed and a rolling steel barn door to replace it so that I can get 13.8ft of clearance to get my 5th wheel in to it. It appears you sell these doors (picture […]Read More
History of the Development of a National Standard of Practice for Wood Design From time-to-time you might see the term NDS® (National Design Specification® for Wood Construction appear in my blogs, and it is referenced on every set of Hansen Pole Buildings plans, as well as within the International Building Codes. Me, being the curious […]Read More
Don’t Cut Trusses! In regards to cutting trusses, an excerpt from the NDS® (National Design Specification for Lumber®) is quoted in the Hansen Pole Buildings’ Construction Manual: “Cutting and altering of trusses is not permitted. If any truss should become broken, damaged, or altered, written concurrence and approval by a licensed design professional is required.” […]Read More
I Want to Add a Steel Ceiling This must be my week for receipt of good questions which require lengthy answers in order to do justice to the subject. Here is another one: DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a 42 x 60 with insulation in walls and roof, 26 gauge metal, wood trusses, 10 […]Read More
Double Bi-parting Sliding Doors for an Airplane Hangar Every once in a while I get asked a Dear Pole Barn Guru question which just demands its own space in order to do the subject topic true justice. This happens to be one of them. DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I want to build a 50x40x16 for […]Read More
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is the minimum height of a RV garage and which size overhead door is needed to store a 5th wheel travel trailer or class A motor-home? JOHN IN COUPEVILLE DEAR JOHN: If you want to insure you do the job right and have the clear space you will need for […]Read More
Let’s dig a Big Hole … and plant a post-frame building in it! Part I of two parts. This article (written by yours truly) appeared in this month’s Rural Builder magazine. If you prefer to read it online, here is the link: https://www.constructionmagnet.com/rural-builder/lets-dig-a-big-hole-and-plant-a-post-frame-building-in-it: I’ve now surprisingly (especially to me) spent my entire adult life in […]Read More
South Dakota Department of Transportation Fabric Covered Hoop Barn I’ve been in South Dakota all but a few days in 2016, I figure another 50-60 years or so and I might even be considered to be a “local”. Last Saturday I was a participant in a 5k “fun run” in conjunction with Sisseton’s Horse and […]Read More
Part III of three in how to build a Sliding Door(Part I posted July 13 and Part II July 14): Door Pull From experience, for opening ease, it is best mounted vertically onto door “end” – on a Vertical Side Rail face. If one-piece sliding doors, skip next section. Bi-Parting Doors With a few exceptions […]Read More
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: It says in my plans that my post concrete encasement depth is minimum 18 inches. Does that mean 18 inches from the bottom of the hole or 18 inches from the bottom of the post? Thank you. COREY IN SPIRIT LAKE DEAR COREY: The post hole concrete is calculated as the […]Read More
This is part II of our three part series on how to build a sliding door. Trolley Mounting Instructions Insert trolley mounting bolts into previously drilled door grid top lateral. See Figure 27-5. Assemble star washer, flange nut and locknut, and adjust on pendant bolts until there is approximately one inch between trolley bolt head […]Read More
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: How does one construct a sliding barn door? SHIRLEY IN FAIR GROVE DEAR SHIRLEY: The best answer to your question is Chapter 27 of the Hansen Pole Buildings Construction Manual. Here it is in three parts, Part I: Most Common Mistakes: Expecting the door frame to be shipped pre-assembled. Installing siding […]Read More
Hansen Pole Buildings Designer Rachel asked me about this today: “I have more and more builders say they put Tyvek® on the walls and roof and then spray foam. This is so they can replace the siding/roofing in the future. Do you find any downfalls with this? I thought this was a pretty good idea.” […]Read More
Once again – confession time. I’ve never personally used spray foam insulation. My oldest stepson, Jake, teaches high school chemistry and physics. He is one smart dude, as he has a master’s degree. When he added onto what was formerly his grandparent’s home, in the Browns Valley, MN area, he utilized closed cell spray foam […]Read More
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