This week the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about building over or on an existing slab or concrete, whether of not Hansen sells “just the blueprints” for a pole barn/house, and lending for a pole building set on foundation/footing/wall.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: In Arkansas, I want to build a pole barn (or similar) on an existing 40×45 concrete 4” slab. I want the building to be tall enough for 14’ garage doors. Building will be used to store a motor home and tractors and trailers. What is the most cost efficient (but safe and lasting) way to build it- dig holes outside of the existing slab, saw cut the slab and dig holes for the poles, or do stick frame on top of the existing slab? STEVEN in EAGLE CREEK
DEAR STEVEN: Let’s begin by eliminating stick frame as there is no guarantee your existing slab is adequate to support perimeter walls and (more importantly) Code prohibits stud bearing walls tall enough for your overhead doors, as well as truss spans over 36′, without your building being engineered (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/08/stick-frame-and-some-limitations/). Stick frame is also very material inefficient.
I have done concrete saw cutting before and don’t plan upon a repeat performance – leaving digging holes as being easiest, most cost effective and structurally sound design solution. 42′ x 48′ would fit nicely and you could concrete infill areas between splash planks and existing slab with premix.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you sell just the blueprints for a pole barn/ house.
MICHAEL in LAKE PANASOFFKEE
DEAR MICHAEL: We can create your ideal dream floor plan whether you order your building from us or not. Every barndominium Hansen Pole Buildings provides is 100% custom designed to best meet the wants and needs of our clients and their loved ones, please see #3 here to assist in determining needed spaces and approximate sizes, and to have professional floor plans and elevation drawings produced affordably. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/02/a-shortlist-for-smooth-barndominium-sailing/
Structural, engineer sealed, plans are only available with your investment in a Hansen Pole Building. This is due to proprietary products specified by our engineers and available only through Hansen Pole Buildings.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello Guru! I’m currently researching the building of a post frame home/workshop/garage. I was looking at getting a construction loan. The bank will finance the purchase of a building kit but they want it to have a foundation footing and wall. I’ve looked at the Sturdi Wall brackets for an anchor system and the laminated 2×6 posts. My question is do you design buildings with foundation walls? Or do you have a better recommendation? Thanks for your help.- JEFF in PORT ORCHARD
DEAR JEFF: We provide many fully engineered post frame buildings using wet set Sturdi-wall plus brackets attached to concrete, block or even ICF foundation walls. Personally (if I was not allowed to do what I feel is a best route – embedded columns) my preference would be wet set brackets in poured concrete piers. If you have a chance, please forward to me your lender’s actual written policy requirements for review, as it may give me some better insights.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m in need of financing a 4 bedroom 4 bathroom home. DEBRA in BROOKLET 
DEAR BRIAN: Hopefully your “laminated” posts will be true glulaminated columns and not 2×6 nailed together. In order to determine footing diameters, our engineers would need to know: Soil bearing capacity at your particular site (a Geotechnical Engineer should be engaged to provide an engineered soils report); Frost depth (soil bearing capacity has an allowable increase with depth of embedment); Sloped roof snow load (Ps). This is calculated from Ground Snow Load (Pg) and can vary due to roofing materials, roof slope, is building heated or not, use of building (True agricultural buildings have a 20% reduction to Ps); Roof dead loads – roofing materials and substrates (OSB or plywood), ceiling materials, as well as roof insulation.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: With my kit and installation does this mean move in ready? MARK in CANTON 
DEAR TAMARRA: While every building we provide is customized to best meet our client’s wants and needs, we do have numerous representative floor plans available: 
DEAR TAYLOR: VA loans can be challenging and they typically force you to hire only an approved General Contractor – meaning you will pay a premium.
As nails are used from each outer ply, into center ply, center ply ends up with double number of nails, as well as then carrying twice as much load as each individual ply. When we tested these in a university wood products lab center ply failed in over 96% of tested members!
DEAR DAN: I surmise your headers (aka truss carriers) are LVLs. While I personally prefer to place ganged two-ply trusses directly into notches in columns, in cases where truss carriers are used, I like to see them fully notched into columns, rather than having to rely upon connectors (whether nails, bolts or a combination) to resist gravitational (snow and dead) loads. Fully notching in interior carrier, also provides for an interior surface where no members project inside plane of columns, making for ease of adding an interior finish. In either case, I would cut my notches in only after columns have been raised and set. This assures me bottoms of all notches are at an exact height.
It would seem as though column notches can be on the same side in all bays except 1, due to the end wall trusses needing to be notched on the outside to be flush with outside building edge (which would make the end wall notches face in opposite directions). Is this correct? MATT in SPOKANE 
DEAR MICHELLE: Amanda (Hansen Pole Buildings’ financing wizardress) received a notification from you filling out our finance questionnaire; however, was waiting to get back to you until your quote was complete so we would have a better idea of how much you would need to borrow.
DEAR PETER: Unless your building has a very wide clearspan, or some huge dead loads (or perhaps a bonus room) a three ply truss seems strangely unusual. You might want to reach out to other possible truss manufacturers to see if you can get a two ply design. While I have seen three ply trusses notched in 4-1/2 inches approved by engineers, if indeed this is your final truss design solution, you should confirm connection adequacy by reaching out to your building’s Engineer of Record.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello, do you have any information on your pole barn homes? Looking to build in lower Michigan. HOLLY in WHITMORE LAKE
DEAR GORDON: Unless there is some issue with your current steel roofing not performing (leaks or rust) I see no reason to remove it. SIPs, while a relatively ‘trick’ design solution, are also very expensive 
It was always our intention to build a pole barn or barndominium on the property but with the requirement of having such in place to qualify, we now need to consider doing this as part of the loan process.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: 
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: 
When I began this blog back in June of 2011, I surmised getting to a total of 100 articles would be a stretch, but yet a worthy goal. Well, I have surprised even myself… welcome to article number 1500! What amazes even me – how many possible topics have yet to be written about.
