Tag Archives: j channel

The Case of the Leaking Post Frame Building Window

The Case of The Leaking Post Frame Building Window

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s hero – renowned sleuth Sherlock Holmes, was forever solving mysteries entitled “The Case of Something or Other”. To solve this particular mystery neither Holmes, nor Dr. John Watson’s skills will be required. Nor shall we need a call to Scotland Yard.

Reader Justin in California writes:

“Hi

I’m hoping you can tell me the truth about why windows might be leaking in a pole barn with metal siding.

I’m in California and had a local builder put this building up.

All of my windows leak…well they seep.

 

 

 

 

It’s not a lot and only happens when it rains a lot or rains with winds.

 

 

 

 

 

I see there is a water trail starting at the bottom of all windows and goes down.

 

 

 

 

I have attached photos of the inside and outside.

 

 

 

 

I was told that water hits the J channel then goes down and goes between the metal siding and the window wrap (Tyvec) and out the bottom….is this true?

 

 

 

 

 

Not asking for a fix just does that water travel between metal and the wrap?

Thanks.

P.S.

The blue frog tape marks where the leaks are.

The photos w/ the pex pipe…the water has been turned off so no water leaks coming from the pex pipe.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:

There’s truth as to why you are getting leakage around your windows (drum roll please) – poor installation.

Another truth – water hits your building’s J channel then goes down and goes between the metal siding and window wrap (Tyvec) and out the bottom. This does not make it a correct installation however.

When I was constructing post frame buildings two decades ago we initially were doing an installation similar to what your builder did. We used a typical flanged vinyl window and trimmed it out with a surround of four sticks of J Channel. I had some really great building crews, guys who took a great deal of pride in their workmanship. Even then, we had call backs for over 10% of our window installations due to leaks! Construction callbacks are costly and crews hate going back to do rework. We solved this problem by going to vinyl windows with integrated J Channels. Poof – leak problems pretty much disappeared.

Your building has a Weather Resistant Barrier (good choice as it allows moisture from inside wall cavity to pass out, while keeping outside moisture out).

Before placing a window in a framed opening, a generous bead of caulking should be applied to seal between nailing flange and Weather Resistant Barrier. After installing window in opening, place self-adhesive flashing tape (3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067 or similar) around the window. With steel trim J Channel, a serious bead of caulking must be placed between flashing tape (or flange if tape was omitted). As J Channel corners are overlapped, caulking needs to be placed between each overlap. Special attention needs to be given to lower corners of window to adequately and completely seal tops of ribs, so water running down panels cannot get between steel siding and Weather Resistant Barrier.

Inside closures (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/12/the-lowly-inside-closure/) or Emseal Self Expanding Sealant Tape Closures (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/03/emseal-self-expanding-sealant-tape-closures/) can be placed between top edge of steel siding below window and Weather Resistant Barrier to further limit a possibility of water entering your walls.

Wa-lah! Case solved.

 

Help! My Overhead Door Jambs are Rotting!

Help! My Overhead Door Jambs Are Rotting!

I am fairly certain this problem occurs more often than I hear about. Reader DAVID in ROLLING PRAIRIE writes:

“Enclosed are two pictures showing my pole building’s overhead door. One picture is the inside door jamb that is decaying from water damage and the other one is a picture of the outside J channel and siding above the overhead door. My question what items need to be removed and what needs to be done to repair and seal the inside door jamb area? This an FBi building built in 1989. The outside upper J channel appears not to be sagging and there is no evidence of any leaks from roofing or front walls.


Thank you in advance for any help given.”

Mike the Pole Building Guru responds:

Thank you for sending photos. As you can tell from photo of outside J Channel, water has been collecting in channel, resulting in wall steel deterioration. Water most likely enters your building through one or more of – a hole or holes have rusted through J Channel, an uncaulked splice along top jamb length, or poorly executed (and possibly uncaulked) trim intersection at opening corners.

If it was my own building, I would approach a solution in this fashion:

In order to repair this area properly will involve having to remove some siding. Your building’s siding was fastened with nails, meaning it will be destroyed in removal process. Therefore, I’d remove all steel siding and trims from this building wall and replace them. Over 29 years your paint has faded and chalked significantly. For replacement I would go with Kynar painted panels (read more about Kynar here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/?s=Kynar). While in steel replacement mode, I would add wainscot to this wall, regardless of whether building balance has it or not. Wainscot will enhance your building’s appearance, as well as providing short length panels easily replaced if damaged.

I would remove present overhead door jamb boards and, as a precautionary measure, replace them with pressure preservative treated lumber. Any cut ends I would treat liberally with Copper Napthenate solution. Cover the entire framed wall with Weather Resistant Barrier (think Tyvek). Wrap barrier completely around wood jambs and staple to inside wall. Wooden overhead jambs should be covered with steel trim with an integrated J Channel to receive siding. Place self-adhesive flashing tape (3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067 or similar) between weather resistant barrier and overhead jamb trim. Avoid a splice in horizontal trim across the top, if possible. Some steel roll formers will make trims long enough for a 16 foot wide door. Overlap trims at corners so any water potentially seeping in rolls onto yet another steel piece. Place liberal caulking amounts behind and between any trim splices or overlaps, especially near corners.

When installing steel siding above door opening, cut panels so bottom edge lands 1/2″ above integrated J Channel low point. This will reduce steel panel premature decay possibility. Use form fitted inside closure strips between these panels and jamb trim flange above the door opening.

Good luck, and please do send me pictures of the final result!

 

 

Garage Door Trims Don’t Fit

Garage Door Trims Don’t Fit

Hansen Pole Buildings’ Technical Support Department answers lots of questions for our clients. Most of these questions can be answered, or could be solved, by review of the building’s engineered plans and/or reading appropriate chapter of Hansen Pole Buildings’ Construction Manual. This Construction Manual also provides a step-by-step outline of in what order to assemble a post frame building kit, so as to achieve best results.

Short Panel DoorSadly, some folks go astray (more often than not – builders whom have their own ideas) and end up with some unique challenges. Challenges we are here to help solve, even for clients who began construction two (or more) years ago.

Client SCOTT in RUFUS writes:

“I have been a long time at putting up this building due to working full time etc. I am at the point of putting on garage door trims. If I understand the orientation of these trims, I have 7 1/2″ of trim and 7″ of space to cover. It looks like I will have to cut 1/2″ down the entire length of each of these trims. Can you give me any advice or thoughts on this? See the attached pictures. Thank you, Scott”

We experienced some considerable head scratching initially, before we opened up client’s photo seen with this article, then it became clear what challenges truly existed.

Hansen Pole Buildings’ overhead door jamb trims started with a standard part manufactured by McElroy Metals known as a P-JFB We have since introduced this part to our other steel vendors, a jamb trim with an integrated J channel. J channel receives edge of steel siding and jamb trim portion sized to cover an appropriate sized jamb, in this client’s case a 2×8.

Sometimes the solution is as easy as using the right trim in the right place.

Overhead Door Jamb


P-JFB trim for a 2×6 jamb shown above.

Here was fix for this client:

We can’t say we have seen overhead doors installed before door jambs are in place (or for this matter headers not yet in placed outside of columns). In order to solve your challenge you are going to need to carefully remove vinyl weather seals from around installed doors. Next loosen all lags attaching vertical legs of overhead door tracks to allow for about 1/2″ of “slop”.

Carefully read Chapter 24 of Hansen Pole Buildings’ Construction Manual “Residential Overhead Door Openings”.

Install overhead door headers appropriately to face of building columns. Place 2×8 overhead door jambs in overhead door hole, with outside of 2×8 even with outside face of headers, wall girts and skirt boards. Install jamb trims, with excess beyond dimension of 2×8 jambs (if any) towards door. Tighten lags holding vertical door rails down, so overhead door face contacts with jamb trims. It may be necessary to replace lags with longer ones, in order to achieve a solid bite into columns. You will probably need some shims between overhead door side rail brackets and columns, in order to tighten lags without a space between brackets and column. Reinstall vinyl weather seals.

 

 

No Leak Overhead Door Dog Ears

No Leak Overhead Door Dog Ears
The key to cutting trims for no leak overhead door dog ears for post frame buildings comes from careful cutting and installation of pieces to water flows in front of, rather than getting behind, each piece as it works down the building. It also helps to utilize a trim which covers the jambs and has an integrated J Channel.

Today’s article was prompted by a question posed by reader JOE in TERREBONNE:
“Could you please tell me the process for wrapping the metal trim around overhead doors with diagonal corners so they don’t leak. I’ve heard that using the angled corners will always leak. Any help will be greatly appreciated.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru Responds:
The following is excerpted from the Hansen Pole Buildings Construction Manual.
All drawings for this depict door opening LEFT side. Mirror image for right side. Drawings are based upon McElroy Metals’ parts (The same process can be used for any manufacturer’s part, provided appropriate adjustments are made for dimensional differences)..

Step #1:

Square cut two P-JFB trim pieces to the measure from 1/4″ above top of concrete slab to 45 degree dog leg bottom and ADD 1-3/8″. See Figure 24-8

Figure 24-8: Overhead Door Flashing Front View

Cut top end as indicated in Figure 24-9 and Figure 24-10 . This becomes Piece C.

Figure 24-9: Overhead Door Flashing Cutting Diagram

Figure 24-10: Nailing Overhead Door Flashing Into Jamb

Install piece C, using joist hanger nails through approximately 2” back face of the “J” portion into the 1-1/2” edge of the jamb. Nails should be close to each end and approximately every 2’ to 3’.

On the wide inside face of the overhead door jamb the trim will fasten when you are ready to install your overhead door weatherseal to the inside face. Nail your weatherseal on with nails every 3′ on center along the entire jamb.

Step #2:

Square cut two P-JFB pieces to 19-3/4″.

Cut one end as shown in
Figure 24-11.

Figure 24-11: P-JFB Piece B Low End

Cut opposite end as shown in Figure 24-12.

Figure 24-12: P-JFB Piece B Installation
Piece B

Install Piece B

Step #3:

(Depending upon door width, this step may require 2 P-JFB pieces.)

Cut each end as shown in Figure 24-13.

Figure 24-13: P-JFB on Dog Eared Door Openings

F Channel and Enclosed Soffits

My early days of post frame (pole) buildings came in the Pacific Northwest. In the early years, rarely did buildings have any overhangs…at least not beyond a few inches of roof steel extending past the siding.
When building did have overhangs, they were always “open”. Open, in this sense, did not mean birds and other critters could fly into the building through them, but rather they had no soffits.

With an open overhang, when one stands beneath and looks up at the underside of the overhang, the supporting substructure framing is visible, as is the underside of the roof steel, or roof sheathing.

A decade later and a transition from a provider of post frame building kit packages, to being a pole builder and clients began requesting their buildings to have enclosed overhangs. With a minimal investment over open overhangs, plus the advantages of being very attractive and limiting locations for nests of both barn swallows and wasps – it was (in my mind) a no brainer.

In researching how others were installing soffits, I found the majority use a piece of trim called an F and J up against the building sidewall.

f channelPicture an F channel with the downward leg being attached to a horizontal piece of wall framing, usually by nails. The horizontal “legs” of the F receive the soffit material – usually vinyl, steel or aluminum. From the end of the short (and lower) horizontal leg of the F channel, is another downward leg (envision an inverted J). The sidewall steel then slides up into the J from below.

All of this appears to be a quick and easy install. Nail a single 2×4 against the outside of the columns, attach the F and J to it and slide the soffit panels into the F channel.

Now the problem with this (as happens with quick and easy) – the soffit panels are not attached to the F. When the breeze begins to blow, the soffit panels vibrate in the F channel, making noise. As wind speeds increase, the soffit panels can actually be blown out of the F – creating all sorts of challenges.

So how did we solve the challenge?

Instead of a single 2×4 nailed to the face of the columns, we took two 2x4s and nailed them together to form an inverted L. The short leg of the L now gives something solid to attach the soffit panels to. Below the soffit panels an inverted piece of J channel trim is installed, easily attached to the vertical leg of the 2×4 L.

I’ve now experienced several thousand soffit installations using this procedure and have yet to have a report of a single soffit panel being blown out!

Success.