Tag Archives: Kynar paint

Fluropon Roofing Coating

Fluropon® Roofing Coating 

I have extolled virtues of Kynar® (PVDF) paint for post frame buildings previously: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/05/kynar/. Fluropon® is a trade name for Valspar’s PVDF factory applied steel roofing coating (paint) system. Sherwin-Williams acquired Valspar  in 2017.

At NFBA’s (National Frame Building Association) 2019 Expo I cornered Sherwin-William’s representative for further information on Fluropon®. Please enjoy this video:

Looking for a best solution to keep your new post-frame building looking new for years? Look to PVDF.

Your Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer can assist you in making good decisions for paint finish on your new building. Call today 1 (866) 200-9657.

Help! My Overhead Door Jambs are Rotting!

Help! My Overhead Door Jambs Are Rotting!

I am fairly certain this problem occurs more often than I hear about. Reader DAVID in ROLLING PRAIRIE writes:

“Enclosed are two pictures showing my pole building’s overhead door. One picture is the inside door jamb that is decaying from water damage and the other one is a picture of the outside J channel and siding above the overhead door. My question what items need to be removed and what needs to be done to repair and seal the inside door jamb area? This an FBi building built in 1989. The outside upper J channel appears not to be sagging and there is no evidence of any leaks from roofing or front walls.

Thank you in advance for any help given.”

Mike the Pole Building Guru responds:

Thank you for sending photos. As you can tell from photo of outside J Channel, water has been collecting in channel, resulting in wall steel deterioration. Water most likely enters your building through one or more of – a hole or holes have rusted through J Channel, an uncaulked splice along top jamb length, or poorly executed (and possibly uncaulked) trim intersection at opening corners.

If it was my own building, I would approach a solution in this fashion:

In order to repair this area properly will involve having to remove some siding. Your building’s siding was fastened with nails, meaning it will be destroyed in removal process. Therefore, I’d remove all steel siding and trims from this building wall and replace them. Over 29 years your paint has faded and chalked significantly. For replacement I would go with Kynar painted panels (read more about Kynar here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/?s=Kynar). While in steel replacement mode, I would add wainscot to this wall, regardless of whether building balance has it or not. Wainscot will enhance your building’s appearance, as well as providing short length panels easily replaced if damaged.

I would remove present overhead door jamb boards and, as a precautionary measure, replace them with pressure preservative treated lumber. Any cut ends I would treat liberally with Copper Napthenate solution. Cover the entire framed wall with Weather Resistant Barrier (think Tyvek). Wrap barrier completely around wood jambs and staple to inside wall. Wooden overhead jambs should be covered with steel trim with an integrated J Channel to receive siding. Place self-adhesive flashing tape (3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067 or similar) between weather resistant barrier and overhead jamb trim. Avoid a splice in horizontal trim across the top, if possible. Some steel roll formers will make trims long enough for a 16 foot wide door. Overlap trims at corners so any water potentially seeping in rolls onto yet another steel piece. Place liberal caulking amounts behind and between any trim splices or overlaps, especially near corners.

When installing steel siding above door opening, cut panels so bottom edge lands 1/2″ above integrated J Channel low point. This will reduce steel panel premature decay possibility. Use form fitted inside closure strips between these panels and jamb trim flange above the door opening.

Good luck, and please do send me pictures of the final result!



Spray Foam and a Post Frame Cabin

Spray Foam and a Post Frame Cabin

Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer Rick Carr is a delight to work with. Other than his fondness for the Green Bay Packers, he is a great guy! Rick not only subscribes to my daily blogs, he reads them. A recent article peaked Rick’s inquisitive mind (view the culprit here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2017/11/properly-insulate-roof-purlins/). This article prompted Rick to write:

“A question on this, if you anticipate needing to replace the steel, in say 40 years, would you put house wrap over the purlins, then the steel, then closed cell foam from underneath.  The idea being that you can’t remove the steel if the closed cell foam is applied directly to the to the steel from underneath?

If I ever find land for a fishing cabin, this is what I would consider. 

A 28×40 cabin with partial open ceiling and half ceiling load trusses with joists.

Then, how would you build and insulate the interior wall from the ceiling to the underside of the purlins, that would be at a truss?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:
I’d start by investing in the best steel money can buy – I’d go with a Kynar paint finish (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/05/kynar/) over a Galvalume substrate, this combination will give the greatest possible longevity for both paint system and the steel itself.

From my research, it appears astute applicators of closed cell spray foam insulation know which adhesives to incorporate in their mixtures so as the foam will stick to the building wrap.

For those interior walls which will be part of the abbreviated second floor, Once the gypsum wallboard is installed on the “living” side, spray foam can be applied from the attic side of the sheetrock. For the wall between your vaulted ceiling and the bonus room area, once drywall is on one side the same spray process can be followed.

My revelation of the day – I’ve become a convert to closed cell spray foam insulation!



Pole Barn Communication

My lovely bride and I have been married for heading on 15 years. To some, this may seem like a lot, to my grandparents and great-grandparents (who were together for 50 years and more) – hardly a drop in the bucket.

Phone CommunicationIn most relationships, success (or lack thereof) is created by communication. Lots of clear, concise dialogue makes for a happy marriage (whether a marriage of two partners in matrimony, or between client and pole barn provider). Don’t talk so much, or don’t pay attention to what the other party is saying, and a rocky road can result.

This morning I received some clear communication from a client:

“Purchased a 40 x 60 pole building from your co in 2005. Most of the building is fine. I contacted the company approximately 2-3 years ago with two problems; 1. The insulation has gone south and is falling from the roof and secondly, the paint on the south east of building has faded from green to almost a grayish white. I contacted your company and was told (after a couple of weeks or more) that you would sell me more insulation at your cost and I could put it in. As for the roof your company said that a representative from the manufacturer would be in contact so as to examine the roof. That was 2-3 years ago and nobody has contacted me or followed through on these problems. As you know the computer is a very good tool at times like this, and I assure you I intend to use it to relay my story on the net covering pole barns and buildings. I feel this will stop potential customers from dealing with such problems with your company. I have since taken pictures that I fully intend to post on the internet.  I regret to take this action and will wait 7 days for your response before proceeding. Any suggestions?”

Well, my first suggestion would be we do not have to be threatened to get action. In fact, we believe so much in the buildings we provide, we will put the information out ourselves!  Any client who writes in order to have a problem solved, we appreciate kind, considerate and “moving forward” efforts.  We most definitely will do everything we can to see their issue is solved in a timely manner.

Go do in internet search for “pole barn (or pole building) problems (or horror stories)”. You will find a few of them – and in regards to a select few providers or builders – lots of them. To the best of our knowledge, there is not a single derogatory posting about Hansen Pole Buildings anywhere on the internet. After providing thousands of pole building kit packages since 2002, this says something about the integrity of our company and the quality of our products.

Getting back on track…..

The original building kit package included reflective roof insulation manufactured by a Canadian company which is no longer in business (and was closed prior to the client’s notification of an apparent issue). Upon doing some research, the best guesses as to why the originally supplied insulation was delaminating (the inside white vinyl facing was flaking off) was due to either the adhesives used in fabrication by the manufacturer, or improper storage of the product onsite by the purchaser.

Having used this manufacturer’s product in thousands of buildings, we had only ever received a handful of concerns with this issue. As the client reports, we did (and still would) offer to supply replacement insulation manufactured by our current supplier (which is produced using a better adhesive).

Sidebar: the originally provided and installed insulation still is working as an effective condensation control, it just flakes off pieces of the white vinyl.

The steel for this client’s building was produced by Fabral® and is their MP-Panel™, which comes with a 25-Year limited paint warranty. From the warranty at www.Fabral.com:

“Fade or change in color in excess of five (5) units of color difference (“NEBS” units) for vertical siding panels ad seven (7) units of color difference (“NBS” units) roof panels for a period of ten (10) years when measured in accordance with the standard procedure specified in ASTM D-224 (latest) paragraph 6.3, on a washed test area.

NOTE: Most coated surfaces, when exposed to the sun, will fade to some degree over a period of time. Five NEBS units is a noticeable, but not usually objectionable, degree of color change. Colors may also darken or change hue rather than fade, particularly on exposure in polluted environments. The NBS units are intended to apply to color change in either direction in comparison with the original or unexposed color. It is understood that fading or color change may not be in uniform if the surfaces are not equally exposed to the sun and elements.”

Under the terms of the warranty, the building owner was to have notified Fabral® “in writing” within 30 days after the discovery of the defect. Although the building owner did not provide Fabral® with proper notice, one of their representatives had been to the building, shortly after the initial contact was made (we keep notes in a client’s file on every inquiry of this sort). It is possible the client does not recall this visit, or the resulting communication from Fabral®, as it was determined then, the fade rate of the paint was within the allowable limitations.

I’ve written before about paint fade: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2014/04/paint-fade/

Morals of the story: when offered a solution by a supplier, either accept it, or offer a counter offer – don’t just stew on it or rehash it; as often as possible send and receive important communications in writing; and when ordering painted steel in which fade rate is critical – invest in the best available paint system, Kynar.

For more reading about Kynar®: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2014/05/kynar/

Dear Guru: Pole Barn Bird Aviary?

Welcome to Ask the Pole Barn Guru – where you can ask questions about building topics, with answers posted on Mondays.  With many questions to answer, please be patient to watch for yours to come up on a future Monday or Saturday segment.  If you want a quick answer, please be sure to answer with a “reply-able” email address.

Email all questions to: PoleBarnGuru@HansenPoleBuildings.com

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Barn Swallows. While most people dislike their nests, I like their bug eating and air acrobatics. A post on an Ag. BBS mentioned Canada building pole nesting barns to provide replacement habitat due to the demolition of old bank barns.

I have seen many a sofit and sliding door track ruined by English Starlings. Sparrows frequently get into big box stores.   How can a builder design in or out Bird habitat? CHILLING IN CHAFFEE

DEAR CHILLING: We’ve done pole buildings which have been specifically designed as aviaries – they make a very affordable design solution for bird aficionados. Bird aviary netting can be added on the inside to control the areas of the building where birds are wanted.

As for how to keep birds out…

Design to keep them outside to begin with. Sliding doors (or any other door which does not seal tight) are an invitation for birds to come share the space.

I live in the serious woods – it is the middle of a forest. My shop has three overhead doors, three entry doors and a sliding patio door. In nearly 20 years I have had exactly one bird inside – the wood pecker who pecked a hole through the cedar siding and into the attic!

If your pole building will be unfinished on the inside, and you tend to leave doors open, the potential for birds living inside can be reduced by designing to minimize nesting locations.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU:I have a pole barn built in the late 70s. The paint has worn off the walls partially and the roof totally. What kind of paint and how should I prepare the surface? I was told Valspar Reserve would be a good choice of paint. BARN LADY IN BYRON

DEAR BARN LADY: The paint systems of 40 years ago were just nothing like what is available today. What your 1970’s era pole barn had on it was probably

polyester paint:


You can repaint steel. Here is information on preparation:


As to what to use for paint, think of your building as being an automobile – any high quality automotive paint would be a possibility. I am not sure if Valspar® Reserve™ will work on steel, from the research I have done, it is unclear.

In my humble opinion only – the best route to go would be to replace the roofing and siding with new painted steel, preferably with a PVDF. This will be your longest lasting paint system. Read about it here: