Tag Archives: dog eared door openings

A Free Post Frame Building Critique

A Free Post Frame Building Critique

I am going to offer a free critique of this post frame building.

From a design aspect, I wouldn’t consider investing in a residential (or residential accessory) post frame building without overhangs. Not only do they make buildings look far less industrial, they also afford weather protection above doors and push runoff or slide off away from walls. With overhangs building walls stay cleaner and large snow piles sliding off roof are far less likely to dent siding and overhead doors.

Enclosed overhangs, in combination with a vented ridge, provide for adequate air flow from eave to ridge to assist in preventing condensation. 

Note there is a very small space between top of overhead door openings and roofline. This means these particular overhead doors will need to have low headroom tracks in order to open. In many cases this precludes an ability to have a remote garage door opener. Low headroom also tends to not open as smoothly. Certainly it would be impossible to have a ceiling installed at a future date (provided trusses were loaded to be adequate to support extra ceiling load).

For virtually no extra cost, overhead door openings could have been dog-eared – a 45 placed in opening upper corners. This makes building again look more like it fits in one’s backyard, rather than an industrial park.

Look at wall bottoms. There is maybe two inches of pressure preservative treated splash plank showing. Due to this, when entry door landings or aprons in front of overhead doors are poured, to avoid having concrete poured against steel siding, there will be a significant step. There is also no base trim (aka rat guard) at the base of walls to stop critters from venturing in through steel siding high ribs.

It is very easy to see nearly every roof and wall steel panel overlap. When properly applied, these laps should not show. This is a craftmanship (or lack thereof) issue.

Missing from sidewall tops is any sort of trim. Even though steel siding and roofing is manufactured (in most cases) on machines with computer controlled cutoffs, there is some slight variance. This variance is going to show either at the base of walls, or at the top. By having trim at wall tops, any slight differences can be hidden.

Structurally – wall girts flatwise on column outsides on spans such as these fail due to not meeting Building Code deflection limitations. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/03/girts/

All of these items mentioned above would not be an issue with a new Hansen Pole Building. We seriously lay awake at night thinking of ideas to prevent clients from making crucial mistakes – we want to avoid you owning a building you will hate forever! 

Looking for a building done right? Call 1(866)200-9657 to speak with a Building Designer today – call is free and there is no obligation or charge!

No Leak Overhead Door Dog Ears

No Leak Overhead Door Dog Ears
The key to cutting trims for no leak overhead door dog ears for post frame buildings comes from careful cutting and installation of pieces to water flows in front of, rather than getting behind, each piece as it works down the building. It also helps to utilize a trim which covers the jambs and has an integrated J Channel.

Today’s article was prompted by a question posed by reader JOE in TERREBONNE:
“Could you please tell me the process for wrapping the metal trim around overhead doors with diagonal corners so they don’t leak. I’ve heard that using the angled corners will always leak. Any help will be greatly appreciated.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru Responds:
The following is excerpted from the Hansen Pole Buildings Construction Manual.
All drawings for this depict door opening LEFT side. Mirror image for right side. Drawings are based upon McElroy Metals’ parts (The same process can be used for any manufacturer’s part, provided appropriate adjustments are made for dimensional differences)..

Step #1:

Square cut two P-JFB trim pieces to the measure from 1/4″ above top of concrete slab to 45 degree dog leg bottom and ADD 1-3/8″. See Figure 24-8

Figure 24-8: Overhead Door Flashing Front View

Cut top end as indicated in Figure 24-9 and Figure 24-10 . This becomes Piece C.

Figure 24-9: Overhead Door Flashing Cutting Diagram

Figure 24-10: Nailing Overhead Door Flashing Into Jamb

Install piece C, using joist hanger nails through approximately 2” back face of the “J” portion into the 1-1/2” edge of the jamb. Nails should be close to each end and approximately every 2’ to 3’.

On the wide inside face of the overhead door jamb the trim will fasten when you are ready to install your overhead door weatherseal to the inside face. Nail your weatherseal on with nails every 3′ on center along the entire jamb.

Step #2:

Square cut two P-JFB pieces to 19-3/4″.

Cut one end as shown in
Figure 24-11.

Figure 24-11: P-JFB Piece B Low End

Cut opposite end as shown in Figure 24-12.

Figure 24-12: P-JFB Piece B Installation
Piece B

Install Piece B

Step #3:

(Depending upon door width, this step may require 2 P-JFB pieces.)

Cut each end as shown in Figure 24-13.

Figure 24-13: P-JFB on Dog Eared Door Openings