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Excessive Dripping, RV Garage Dimensions, and Roof Insulation

This week’s Ask The Guru addresses reader questions about the cause and possible solution to excessive dripping, the dimensions of an RV garage Hansen designed, and advice regarding putting a vapor barrier bubble blanket on the underside of the purlins before blowing insulation in attic.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I live in Pennsylvania – we just had our barn roof replaced with drip stop at the suggested of a local builder. Finished in October, 2024, November comes with cold mornings and warm days and now we have excessive dripping in our barn. We have a 140-80 long indoor attached to horse barn – dripping especially bad along the edge where the two barns meet. There is no installation guide for this material that I can find, although I see some places talk about using a heat gun to treat lap edge. I know ventilation plays a role, although no issues prior to this install. Looking of insight how what to do to fix this problem. Would love to talk with you on the phone to discuss further and pay you for your time to discuss particulars. Thanks in advance. ROBIN in RUFFS DALE

DEAR ROBIN: In order for Dripstop to work effectively takes an excellent ventilation system – one with both adequate intake and exhaust vents. Outside of ensuring ventilation is doing its job, is reducing possible sources of moisture. Obviously your horses contribute greatly to adding moisture to the air, so not much you can do about them as a source. You do need to make sure your area at least 10 feet wide around your building is sloped away at least 5%. Downspots from gutters need to discharge at least 10 feet away from building. If these measures are ineffective, you may want to contact Dripstop directly at 1.937.660.6646.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you have the dimensions for the RV Door, gross dimensions of the building? Tried to attach photo. Custom RV & Motorhome Pole Barn (Hansen). Thank you JOHN in WEST LAFAYETTE

DEAR JOHN: The footprint is 28′ x 42′ with a 12′ x 14′ overhead door on the taller 16′ section and a 9′ wide door on the attached side shed. As every building we provide is 100% custom designed to best meet wants and needs of our clients, we can adapt those dimensions to whatever is needed for your particular combination.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: This building is a shop and will be heated probably only when I am in it working. Should I put a vapor barrier bubble blanket on the underside of the purlins before blowing insulation in attic. RUSS in DEVILS LAKE

DEAR RUSS: Assuming your building is already up, if you have no means of controlling condensation on underside of your roof steel, you should be doing something. In order to be effective, whatever is used must be totally sealed, else you risk creating problems between roof steel and any barrier if moisture passes through and gets trapped. Your best bet – two inches of closed cell spray foam directly applied to underside of roof steel. Make sure dead attic space is properly ventilated.

This entry was posted in Building Drainage, Insulation, Building Interior, Pole Barn Questions, Budget, Pole Barn Design, Constructing a Pole Building, Horse Riding Arena, Pole Barn Planning, RV Storage, Barndominium, Ventilation and tagged , , , , , , , on by .

Posts, Trusses and Costs, Slab Thermal Movement, and a Name

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about use of one’s own posts, metal vs wood trusses, and cost of trusses, sealer for slab thermal movement, and what the proper name of a garage, storage, and living quarters would be.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: The barn is to be built in 78594. 60x40x15 with 12′ side extensions.
1. I want to use my own posts for the frame.
2. What trusses can be obtained (metal vs wood) for the roof?
3. What would the trusses cost for the barn in material? LESLIE in SEBASTIAN

DEAR LESLIE: In answer to your questions…

1) Why would you want to use your own posts, when we have available and affordable stronger glulaminated columns than anywhere else in America? https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2024/04/new-hansen-pole-building-roof-supporting-columns/

2) Having spent well over four decades deeply involved with prefabricated wood trusses, I have some direct experience. As far as cost – because we manufacture wood trusses in our plant and ship them with your lumber, they are more cost effective than steel trusses. Our steel trusses are manufactured in Tennessee, so you have two sets of freight costs. If freight was not a factor, it is probably a toss up for costs.

Wood trusses are subject to very strict quality control standards. Every span, of each and every order, must have quality control reports to document correct size, grade and species of lumber as well as correct thickness and dimensions of steel connector plates. Random third-party quality control inspections are done, to verify trusses being produced meet or exceed what is specified on engineer sealed truss drawings. Steel trusses, somehow have escaped this level of quality control (even though Building Codes specify third party inspections must be done).

3) We only provide trusses along with our complete building packages, please call Brenner at (605)432-8981 Monday morning to further discuss your building wants and needs.

 

Screeding ConcreteDEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am getting ready to pour a concrete slab in my 24’x30′ pole barn. I calculated the thermal contraction along the 30′ length to be just over 1/8″. Would it be a good idea to install a foam sill sealer type material onto the inside of the grade boards to accommodate any thermal movement of the slab? DAVID in WESTFIELD

DEAR DAVID: I would be placing R-10 rigid insulation vertically (at least down two feet), attached to inside of my pressure preservative treated splash, with top of insulation even with where top of slab will be. As far as thermal movement goes, this is why expansion joints are placed at 24 to 30 times thickness of slab. As an example a nominal four inch slab (3-1/2 inch actual), should have expansion joints every seven to eight feet.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: O great pole barn genius, what would I want to store an RV, also be at least a 2 car garage, and workshop, with a couple finished rooms for living quarters? What’s that beast called, and what should I budget for it low/high in KY? KIM in PAYNEVILLE

DEAR KIM: Thank you for your oh so kind words, I am humbled. As far as naming it – yours would be my first choice, some would call it a barndominium (especially if it has a kitchen and bathroom), others a shop house. Fully engineered post frame, modest tastes, DIY, budget roughly $75-85 per sft for conditioned spaces, $35 for all others. Does not include land, site prep, utilities, permits. Your Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer, Brenner Carlson will be reaching out to you to provide some firm numbers.

This entry was posted in Building Interior, Shouse, Budget, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Constructing a Pole Building, RV Storage, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Trusses, Concrete, Shouse and tagged , , , , , , , on by .

Polycarbonate Frame, Concrete Thickness, and Insulation

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about the use of a hard-sided (polycarbonate) frame, how thick a concrete pads has to be to house an RV, and insulation options for a vacation home.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can a pole structure be built as a hard-sided (polycarbonate) frame 20 feet wide, without using trusses or central support poles, and instead using steel rod ties wall to wall/post to post, to keep the structure from spreading? Maximum snow load approximately 2 feet of wet snow. I need a greenhouse (summer) that has no central poles but also no trusses, to avoid shading. ANDREW in THREE HILLS

DEAR ANDREW: Rather than trying to reinvent a wheel, it would probably behoove you to look into an actual polycarbonate greenhouse such as these https://www.growspan.com/ad-growspan-greenhouse-structures-1/?gclid=CjwKCAjwrNmWBhA4EiwAHbjEQADPM4ifhujox0twKMYlU_xupk-R3NwGmFk0eBVXQMIn75wolNx08RoCCpkQAvD_BwE. This would have to be far more efficient and effective than even engineering costs of attempting to design using post frame. Best of success to you with your project.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: How thick of a concrete pad do I need to park a 16,000 pound RV on under my pole barn that is 16 feet wide by 26 feet long? JOSEPH in BLUE RIDGE

DEAR JOSEPH: More important than concrete thickness will be what you have done to prepare your site. Properly prepared and well compacted, it is possible a four inch thick slab could do everything you need it to be. It might behoove you to thicken slab to five or more inches in zones of wheel travel and add 1/2″ rebar in these areas (less than five inches thick does not provide adequate concrete coverage for rebar to be effective).

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Using structure as a vacation home. Concrete floors. Which kind of options for insulation? Walls and ceiling – open to spray on ceiling and keeping open – but would do a ceiling if batt was the option r value thought? MARK in MENTONE

DEAR MARK: DeKalb county is in Climate Zone 3A. Here are my recommendations (all based upon 2021 IECC):

Slab – perimeter 2′ down with R-10 rigid insulation

Walls – Weather Resistant Barrier between framing and siding; bookshelf wall girts; R-20 or greater rock wool batts (unfaced); no interior vapor barrier

Roof – 18″ raised heel trusses; roof steel with an Integral Condensation Control factory applied; vent eaves and ridge; blow in R-49 fiberglass on top of a ceiling.

This entry was posted in Ventilation, Concrete, Building Interior, Columns, Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Homes, Constructing a Pole Building, RV Storage, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Building Grow House, Shouse and tagged , , , , , on by .

Splash Boards, Roof Loads, and Truss Spacing

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about shrinkage of splash boards installed wet, roof load capacity, and truss spacing for an RV storage building.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have two questions (related) regarding splash boards and concrete floor top. My splash boards have been in place for quite a while, and have actually shrunk (they were quite wet when nailed in place). There are several that are not over 7 inches wide. I’m going to end up with only 3-1/2 inches of splash board above the concrete. Is this sufficient? The tops of the splash boards are very level, and I’m thinking of attaching treated 2x4s on the inside to screed against. It would be easier (and probably more accurate/consistent) for me to measure 3-1/2 inches down from the top rather than up from the bottom of the splash boards.

Also, wondering if there is a benefit to placing 3 x 1/4 inch galvanized lag bolts, 1 inch into the splash boards from the interior side 1 or 2 feet apart, to “anchor” the splash boards to the slab?

Thanks so much for sharing your experience and insights! GREG in COLVILLE

DEAR GREG: As long as you are measuring from a level point and top of your concrete slab will be below bottom of your base trim you will be all good with measuring down 3-1/2″ from splash board tops. While I have not done it personally, I know more than one person who has used a pressure preservative treated 2×4 to screed against as you describe. At a minimum it should be rated UC-4A (ground contact) for treatment.

There might be some small benefit to be gained by using a mechanical attachment of splash boards to your slab. As to how much, I have not seen any studies to verify.

Thank you for your kind words and please remember to send me progress photos!

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you know how much weight per square foot the roof of a pole building can hold?  My building is 64’ x 36’, if that matters. ROBERT

DEAR ROBERT: Weight per square foot (psf) will be dependent upon what your building was engineered to support. Every set of engineer sealed building plans is required to list all loads to be supported. Usually this will be specified by a value for sloped roof snow load (Ps) for roof plane live loads. Dead loads (actual weight of structure and supported materials) should also be listed.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m wanting to do a pole barn to park my RV under for the winter. My question is can I use a single truss spaced at 10’? Do I need to use two trusses per post? ERIC in BONNERS FERRY

DEAR ERIC: Without knowing how far you intend to span with your trusses it is difficult to provide a definitive answer. Boundary County does not require building inspections, so even though you are in an area of extremely high snow loads – risks end up being upon you as a new building owner.

While a single ply truss may work, in most instances your investment into true double trusses (nailed face-to-face as a pair) is minimal. Double trusses provide greater reliability as your probability of having two adjacent trusses having a same ‘weak link’ is small. Bracing requirements are also reduced when a pair of trusses are utilized.

Even though you may not need a building permit, I would strongly encourage you to only erect a fully engineered building. Protection for your RV is only going to be as good as what your building is designed for.

 

This entry was posted in Professional Engineer, Lumber, RV Storage, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Trusses, Concrete and tagged , , , , , on by .

A “Man Cave,” A Quote Request, and Snow Loads

This Monday’s PBG discusses a “Man Cave” designed with SIP panels, a quote request from Texas, and what our snow loads are for our buildings.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Considering a monitor style pole building with RV storage in center and living quarters on one side (loft in rear of building only) When RV is not in the center garage it would become the “Man Cave”.

I am considering timber frame trusses in only the center section of the Monitor Roof (likely 14′) and sip panels for roof insulation above trusses. Would make for pretty cool ceiling!!

I have scoured the internet for plans such as this – have you ever encountered or see a plan such as this? SCOTT in CAMBRIDGE

DEAR SCOTT: The reason you are not finding plans is because it would be both very cool and amazingly expensive. I have investigated SIPs panels a few times and found them to be prohibitively spendy. I intend to add onto our post frame shouse next Spring with a similar roof system in mind. To get the look I am after, I intend to build glulam trusses with purlins above them, closed cell spray foam insulation and most likely corrugated steel panels on the underside of the purlins. If you are intent upon a design such as you envision, you will need to invest in services of a Registered Professional Engineer to provide structural plans.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am ready to build but I am in Texas. The plans were designed for traditional stick frame construction. Can you quote me from those plans? SOCRATES in McALLEN

DEAR SOCRATES: We most certainly can.

We would appreciate the opportunity to participate in your new home. Please email your building plans, site address and best contact number to caleb@hansenpolebuildings.com or dial (866)200-9657

Thank you. A Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer will also be reaching out to you.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is the snow load on the roofs of your buildings? KAREN in ALBUQUERQUE

DEAR KAREN: Every Hansen Pole Building is fully engineered to meet or exceed Code required snow and wind loads at the site the building will be erected upon. We have provided buildings designed for snow loads in excess of 400 psf (pounds per square foot). Providing us (or any supplier) with answers to these questions will assist in making your journey to a new building a smooth process: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/01/building-department-checklist-2019-part-1/ and
https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/01/building-department-checklist-2019-part-ii/

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Building Interior, Budget, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, RV Storage, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Barndominium and tagged , , , , , on by .

A Shouse, Adding Tin to Block Siding, and Truss Carriers

This week the Pole Barn Guru tackles the subjects of building a shouse with RV storage, how to add tin to block siding, and truss carriers vs notched posts.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good morning!

My wife and are currently going to market with our home in Lakeville and are considering our next steps.  We have a great deal of interest in exploring an affordable option for our current needs which include about 1,500 SF of residential space and then remaining storage for a 45’ motorcoach, our vehicles/toys, shop and an above ground “block” safe room.  As we have no idea what the cost, or practicality, of this option is we felt it would be a good first step to determine your design services and simply what you have to offer in terms of options.

We do not have a piece of land acquired (though it would likely be in S/SE MN) as we need to first determine the viability of the option and then get a better sense for what the area counties allow/require.

Hopeful you can assist! MITCH & WENDY in LAKEVILLE

DEAR MITCH AND WENDY: Thank you for your interest! Our team members at Hansen Pole Buildings are barndominium experts. Basically your only limitations will be imagination, budget and available space.

Links in this article should answer many of your questions: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/10/show-me-your-barndominium-plans-please/.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I came across this sight and found it very informative.

I have a question:  I have a 8′ block foundation with 6′ above the block that is tinned. I want to tin the block to match.

Tinning is not the problem but what or how do I fasten the tin to the block?

Type of fasteners work best? Later, BRIAN

DEAR BRIAN: Thank you for your kind words. Your steel siding should be screwed onto 2×4 horizontals. These 2×4 can be attached to your block using Tapcon concrete screws. Attach steel siding to 2x4s using 1-1/2″ powder coated diaphragm screws.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Should the top boards be on the inside and outside? MARK in LAWRENCEBURG

DEAR MARK: By “top boards” I will guess you are placing ‘truss carriers’ (headers) between columns in order to support trusses. In my humble opinion it would be best to utilize a two-ply ganged prefabricated wood roof truss at each column (notched in) and eliminate carriers entirely. It is far cleaner structurally as you eliminate numerous connections and if a failure is going to occur, it is most often at a connection.

In direct answer to your concern, placement of your top boards and their proper attachment will be called out for on your engineer sealed building plans. Should you not be building from an engineered plan, it would be prudent to invest in one’s service now, before a crucial design flaw becomes a failure.

For extended reading on truss carriers, please see: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/10/what-size-truss-carriers/

 

 

 

 

 

This entry was posted in RV Storage, Barndominium, Pole Barn Design, Shouse, Building Styles and Designs, Shouse, Pole Building Siding, Trusses, Pole Barn Homes and tagged , , , , , , on by .

A Gambrel Pole Barn, Ceiling Heights, and RV Storage Solutions

Today the Pole barn Guru discusses questions about Gambrel buildings, a minimum ceiling height for a loft, and RV storage solutions.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you make plans for 18 x 20 gambrel roof pole barns? BEN in HOWELL

DEAR BEN: Hansen Pole Buildings can provide materials, assembly instructions and engineer sealed plans for virtually any dimension gambrel roofed pole barn – including your 18 x 20.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am building a pole barn house and want to put a bedroom in the loft. What height do I need to have to be able to stand up in the bedroom? BRENDA in SPRING VALLEY

DEAR BRENDA: A quandary exists in providing you an answer as IRC (International Residential Code) makes no provision for post frame (pole) buildings, so therefore IBC (International Building Code) should be code to be used for their correct design.

Under IBC rules minimum ceiling height in these buildings must be 7 feet 6 inches in hallways, common areas, and habitable rooms.

According to IRC, all habitable rooms must have a minimum ceiling height of seven feet. Habitable rooms include bedrooms, living spaces and kitchens but exclude bathrooms, hallways, utility spaces and closets. A ceiling with exposed beams spaced four feet or more apart can measure 6 feet 6 inches from floor to underside of beams. Bathrooms may have a minimum ceiling height of 6 feet 8 inches.

Minimum ceiling height in rooms with sloped ceilings (such as a finished attic space) of seven feet over 50 percent or more of room area. Room area calculation in this case will be calculated as total floor space with walls (or headroom) five feet or greater tall. Areas with ceilings lower than 5 feet are allowed but do not count toward official room area total (IRC rules also include minimum floor space for most habitable rooms).

RV Storage BuildingDEAR POLE BARN GURU: How much will it cost to build a roof only pole structure tall enough for RV while in use as shelter from elements but allowing as much light as possible.
Thanks MARY in SANDPOINT

DEAR MARY: There are numerous variables to be discussed between yourself and a Building Designer (please dial 866-200-9657 to speak with one) prior to being able to give an accurate price. Amongst these will be the height of your current (and any future) RV, as well as its length. Ultimately you may find it more cost affordable to cover one or more walls, as rarely is a roof only structure a most practical solution. For more reading regarding about this subject, please see: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/04/roof-only-pole-buildings/.

 

 

This entry was posted in Gambrel, Pole Barn Design, Lofts, RV Storage and tagged , , , on by .

5 Tips for Storing and Protecting Your RV

Hansen Pole RV StorageAs an RV owner, you may enjoy weeks or even months of traveling the country every year. But do you have a plan in place for those times when you won’t be using your motorhome? If you have a permanent home and give your RV a break for part of the year, it’s important to think about proper storage. After all, excessive exposure to the elements and local pests can lead to faded paint, cracked vinyl, compromised insulation, damaged wires, and other problems.

Not sure how to keep your RV in the best possible condition when it’s not in use? Start with these 5 RV storage tips.

Wash and Wax the Exterior

Be sure to use a wax that was specifically formulated for the material from which your motorhome exterior is made. This will help protect the vehicle’s finish.

Clean Out the Interior

If you’re preparing your RV for storage, you might as well take the opportunity to clean out the interior. Wipe down all surfaces and look for ways to minimize clutter. Remove all food and crumbs so that you don’t attract any unwanted animal visitors.

Check for Cracks and Openings

Any openings in your RV can let moisture in, which can lead to interior damage. Check the roof seams, body seams, and window sealant, and make sure there aren’t any gaps or holes in the vehicle’s underside. If you do find any gaps, fill them with silicone or expanding foam—just make sure you test the expanding foam out somewhere else first if you’ve never used it before.

Remove Batteries and Change Your Oil

For long-term RV storage, consider removing your vehicle’s batteries and storing them somewhere they won’t freeze. You should also change your oil for your engine and generator so that you don’t have to deal with corrosion.

Keep Your RV Indoors

One of the best solutions for long-term RV storage is an indoor space. Hansen Pole Buildings offers custom RV storage building kits, allowing you to easily construct a custom garage that fits your particular motorhome. Indoor RV storage buildings are available in a range of styles (including gable, monitor, and gambrel) as well as wall materials (including board and batten, vinyl, steel, or even brick) so that you can choose the right aesthetic for your property.

With your motorhome in an indoor or covered RV storage building, you can rest easy knowing it will be protected from the elements and ready to go the next time you plan to hit the road.

This entry was posted in Building Styles and Designs, RV Storage and tagged , , , on by .

When Your RV Doesn’t Fit

When It Just isn’t Tall Enough

Early in my career supplying pole building kit packages, we provided a building to a client in Oregon for him to house his motor home. Our salesperson really felt he had done due diligence in having the client measure the height of the motorhome before ordering the building.

After the building was completed, the client sent us a photo of his new building – which he absolutely was thrilled with. And the building was frankly beautiful.

I could immediately tell from the photo there was a problem with the building……

The motorhome was parked outside.

It seems the client actually did not measure the height of his motorhome, he merely guessed it would fit through a 12 foot tall door!

In a related more recent scenario….

RV Storage BuildingWe have a client who is enjoying his 30 foot wide pole building – which has a ten foot wall height. It did everything he wanted it to, until he bought an RV. Which is nearly 12 feet tall.

No matter how well he greases it up, the RV will just not fit into his existing building.

The first suggestion was to put a 12 foot wide side shed on one side, with a very flat roof slope which would extend up to the peak of his existing building. Needing a 12’6” eave height on the low side of the shed, this would result in a slope of only 1.11/12.

Problem – on roof slopes less than 3/12 the steel companies all disclaim any warranty. Bigger problem, the existing building has prefabricated roof trusses, and the extension to run from the existing wall line to the peak of the roof would place a point load on the peak of the trusses, which they are not designed for. Framing (such as a tapered stud wall) could be placed on top of the trusses to support the rafters, but this is just adding to complexity and costs.

Further, the steel siding on one-half of each endwall would need to be replaced with longer panels, as would the wall towards the shed.

My proposed solution, was to first gutter the side of the existing building towards where he wants to park his RV. Then construct a free standing gabled building, as a roof only, immediately adjacent to the gutter. This would prove an immensely less expensive solution.

To confound things further, it turns out the client is in a HOA (Home Owners Association) which limits property owners to one detached accessory building.

I went back to my proverbial “drawing board” and suggested he place siding from the roofline of the new cover, down to the roof of the existing building, allowing just enough gap to allow water to flow into the gutter. This would effectively connect the two roofs into a single structure.

I am waiting to hear if this satisfies the HOA!

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Building Styles and Designs, Pole Barn Planning and tagged , , , , on by .
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