Tag Archives: post frame basement

Pole Barn Home Price, A Residential Kit in MN, and a Basement Foundation

Today readers “Ask the Guru” about the “guestimation” of a price for a 500 sq ft pole barn home, if Hansen can provide design and kit for a residence in MN, and if a post frame building can be built upon a basement foundation.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am interested in getting a simple 500 square foot pole barn residential home. In location of Lonedell, Missouri, Any guestimation on price? LORI in SAINT JAMES

DEAR LORI: Thank you for your interest in a new Hansen Pole Building. Fully engineered post frame homes and barndominiums, modest tastes, DIY, budget roughly $75-85 per sft for conditioned spaces, $35 for all others. Does not include land, site prep, utilities, permits.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can your company engineer and supply materials for a residential building 36′ long by 42′ wide (trusses with 15″ rise and up to 6:12 pitch) plus a right angle extension for a garage. Objective is a building to fit onto a narrow lot with the main gable parallel with the street. Does that fit your 6′ and 12′ optimal cost effective building dimensions OK? Can that be delivered without excessive delivery cost in MN. I can create and snail mail a pencil drawing of the concept if needed. Feasibility of such a building will influence potential lot acquisition. I would just like a general observation about that type of structure before proceeding on a lot purchase. BRIAN in LE ROY

DEAR BRIAN: Hansen Pole Buildings has provided hundreds of fully engineered, custom designed post frame buildings and barndominiums to our clients in Minnesota. Your multiples of 6 and 12 for width and length should be optimal for being cost effective. Our wholesale distribution center is right along Minnesota’s West central border, making deliveries very convenient and affordable.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can Post and Beam homes be built on a basement foundation? DEBORAH in TROY

DEAR DEBORAH: Our fully engineered post frame homes can be built on full, partial or walk out basements of poured concrete, CMU (concrete block), ICFs (insulating concrete forms) and even Permanent Wood Foundations.

 

 

A BONUS PBG for Friday May, 24th — Alternative Siding, Basements, and Purlin Size

A BONUS PBG for Friday May, 24th — Alternative Siding, Basements, and Purlin Size

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: In towns that disapprove of houses with rib steel siding, can traditional OSB sheathing on the bookshelf girts w/ vinyl cladding be substituted? Material prices seem similar and no huge difference in labor seems probable. But, will the difference change the engineering specs due to racking and deflection, etc? I.E.: could that change the bookshelf girts size or spacing? How thick would the OSB need to be? What nailing would be needed? BRIAN in LEROY

DEAR BRIAN: While pre-painted ribbed steel siding is the most durable and cost effective siding available, some jurisdictions just do not ‘get it’ and demand (as is their right) alternative sidings. When we engineer using commercial bookshelf wall girts, we limit deflection to what sheetrock will withstand, so they are effective with any type of external siding materials. No changes to structural system will need to be made, other than vertical blocking between wall girts every 4′ (in order to provide a nailing surface for edges of OSB). If you use vinyl siding, then 7/16″ OSB and a Weather Resistant barrier will be necessary. Typical nailing will be 8d common nails at 3″ on center along panel edges.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can a pole barn building have a basement? CLARK in HILLSBORO

DEAR CLARK: Absolutely! We can even engineer it using a permanent wood foundation, saving you thousands of dollars as compared to a concrete foundation. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/02/barndominium-on-a-daylight-basement/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m building a 36x64x16 8′ truss spacing . We want exposed truss and ceiling cavity without the use of drop ceiling or blown in bat. My question is it smart to use 2×6 purlins instead of 2×4 to allow for room for faced 6″ insulation to get a R19 value, besides spray foam what are some other options. Thanks. ZACH in LAUREL

DEAR ZACH: While it is smart to use 2×6 purlins, using batt insulation between your purlins will result in nothing but long term problems. Your only real answer is closed cell spray foam https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2023/10/properly-insulating-between-roof-purlins/

A Wood Frame Basement, Inside Dimensions, and Steel vs Wood

This week the Pole Barn Guru about building a wood frame basement with “daylight space,” the inside dimensions of a 40′ x 80′ structure, and a debate between steel vs wood construction.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’d like to build a post frame building with a daylight basement space. I’d been researching permanent wood foundations and thought I could likely do the same using the post frame method instead of stick building basement walls. If properly engineered and waterproofed according to the wood foundation folks, do you see any reason why this couldn’t or shouldn’t be done this way? The first-floor walls would be about 4 feet below grade except at the garage entry at grade. The site is level but the street slopes down to allow the grades to work out. In this condition would you use a shallow post footing or wet set a bracket? I like the idea of minimizing the concrete, especially the footings and stem walls of conventional stick framing. ROB in PORTLAND

DEAR ROB: We are actually going to be inventorying 2×6 and 2×8 #1 SYP treated to FDN requirements in just a few months – one reason being exactly for cases like yours. To minimize concrete required, once site has been graded to level, glulam columns would be embedded with a concrete bottom collar (roughly 18″ deep of concrete), with balance of hole backfilled with compactible fill to grade. Permanent wood foundation walls would then be placed between columns on top of gravel.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: If I build a 40′ x 80′ pole barn as a home, what would the interior dimensions be? FRANK in STERLING

DEAR FRANK: When your new Hansen Pole Buildings’ barndominium is all framed up ready for interior finish, inside dimensions will be 39′ 0-1/2″ x 79′ 0-1/2″ assuming a single story and fairly typical climactic loads.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am building a 30X50x14 Pole building. I am stuck on a couple things. Steel vs wood and thickness of the concrete. I will be putting in radiant heat and also plan of having an auto / truck lift in the building. Another reason I am thinking of steel is an overhead chain hoist. Thank you for your help and time. ROB in BEAVER FALLS

DEAR ROB: Steel vs. wood – if this is about how your building will be structurally framed, prefabricated wood roof trusses can be engineered to support any sort of concentrated load you may be considering – we just need to know in advance how much weight and where load will be picked up from (steel frame needs this information as well – just because it is steel, does not mean one can arbitrarily hang greater loads from it). In order to achieve greatest value for your heating dollars – wood trusses allow for you to have a ceiling you can insulate above, rather than having to heat air space far above where you actually need it to be comfortable. Concrete thickness – your lift provider can advise as to what thickness of concrete will be necessary to support their equipment. Keep in mind – slab only needs to be made thicker where lift will be positioned, so it isn’t like your will have to make entire floor thicker. You can easily ‘step’ your under slab insulation down where concrete needs to be thicker.

 

 

A Basement Foundation, Vapor Barrier for Arena, and a Hansen Kit

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about building a post frame building on a basement foundation, insulation vs a reflective radiant barrier, and a question about what is include in a Hansen Building kit.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Is it possible to erect one of the pole barn kits on a basement foundation? LUCAS in LANDISBURG

DEAR LUCAS: Absolutely – if you are planning a poured concrete, concrete block or ICF foundation, you will want us to provide wet set brackets to be placed in top of your walls when they are poured. We also offer an option of a Permanent Wood Foundation.

Here is some extended reading: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/02/barndominium-on-a-daylight-basement/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hey can you enlighten me on this product and if you are still using it in pole barn applications, I am considering a riding arena and need especially if commercial a vapor barrier and some added R-Value I am looking at the R-22 product.

Thanks,

Any information would be helpful Insulation4less.com doesn’t seem to have a phone number and very difficult to contact.

Saw Your Page:
https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/tag/prodex/

ROBERT in ROCHESTER

DEAR ROBERT: Thank you for reaching out to us. If you will note, in reference to our page where you found us, Prodex is a Radiant Reflective Barrier (RRB) – it is NOT insulation, regardless of what claims might be made by any distributor of this product.

Here is some further discussion about RRBs: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/04/reflective-insulation-wars/
In Southern Minnesota you are in Climate Zone 6. Here would be my recommendations:

Roof – order roof steel with an Integral Condensation Control (Condenstop or Dripstop) factory applied. Install a steel ceiling across truss bottom chords, blow fiberglass insulation in above steel ceiling. Vent attic at eaves with enclosed vented soffits and ridge.

Walls – use a Weather Resistant Barrier (aka Housewrap) between framing and wall steel. Place bookshelf wall girts two foot on center and fill wall cavity with rockwool batt insulation and an interior vapor barrier.
One of our Building Designers will reach out to you to further discuss your riding arena needs.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is all included in a pole barn home kit?

AMANDA in HAVRE

Click here to download our free brochure!DEAR AMANDA: Thank you for your interest in a new Hansen Pole Building. These would be included items:

Fully engineered plans including:
Layout of all columns
Roof framing plan showing all trusses, rafters and purlins
Section view(s) through building
Elevations of all exterior walls showing all wall girts, window(s) and door(s) framing
Roofing and siding layouts
Connection details of all members
Any framing layouts for raised wood floors (either over crawl spaces or for 2nd or 3rd floors
Stair details

Verifying calculations from the engineer

Construction (assembly) Manual – over 500 pages of step-by-step instructions, fully illustrated

Unlimited FREE Technical Support

Fully itemized Material List

All Materials necessary to assemble structural portions of your building, including doors and windows, with the exception of concrete, rebar and any nails normally driven by a nail gun.