Tag Archives: vented closure

Ceiling Addition, Drywall Orientation, Ridge Vent Replacement

This week the Pole Barn Guru addresses reader questions regarding the ability to hang a ceiling addition in a Hansen Building, if it is better to hang drywall parallel or perpendicular to framing, and if Hansen can replace a ridge vent in Buffalo, NY

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I purchased a 25′ x 35′ kit from you and was wondering if I can hang a ceiling in my pole barn? I have 11′ or 12′ trusses on center and was worried about the strength of the trusses to hold more weight. THOMAS in NEW TRIPOLI

DEAR THOMAS: Your building’s roof trusses are designed to support a five (5) psf (pounds per square foot) dead load from the bottom chords. This would be sufficient to carry 2×6 ceiling joists 24 inches on center on hangers between bottom chords, as well as 5/8″ gypsum wallboard (drywall) and blown in or batt fiberglass insulation.

Please note – in your provided photo wall girts have been externally mounted, they have been engineered to be placed bookshelf style, as externally mounted girts on 11′ and greater spans will fail due to bending and will excessively deflect. They should be removed, trimmed and placed to match engineered plans. Also – end trusses are to be notched into columns 1-1/2” to provide proper and adequate bearing. They should be carefully removed, notches cut, then properly placed.


DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I got my final inspection last week, so I have finished the workshop according to the county. Now I am working on the insulation and interior wall and ceiling finishing. For insulation, I am using R-19 craft faced batting for both walls and ceiling and might later add blown in above the ceiling to further increase the R value.

I have a question on the best orientation for the drywall for ceiling and walls. It seems that running the sheets perpendicular to the ceiling purlins and commercial girts would provide greater strength than parallel. What is your experience? I am planning on using 5/8 inch board.

DEAR LEE: For best installation you will want to run drywall perpendicular to framing (e.g. vertically on walls) https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/11-reasons-post-frame-commercial-girted-walls-are-best-for-drywall/
Ideally, you should use unfaced insulation in your ceiling, this allows any warm moist air within your building to escape into attic space and be properly exhausted through ridge vent.


DEAR POLE BARN GURU: You’re listed as building pole barns in Buffalo, NY. I want to find someone that can replace my ridge vent that goes the full length of the building. Who do you recommend in the area and what choices do you have for a new vent for me? GARY in BUFFALO

vented-closure-stripDEAR GARY: If your steel panels are 3′ wide, with 5/8″-3/4″ high ribs every 9″ we can provide form fitted ridge closures, if so, please reach out to Materials@HansenPoleBuildings.com with your zip code and length of ridge line for pricing and availability.

Most of our clients are DIYers, should you need an installer, we would suggest your try posting in your nearest Craigslist under “GIGS”.

Steel Ridge Cap to Roofing Overlap

Hopefully no one wants to create a roof with leaks. Reader MIKE in HARBOR CREEK wants to make sure he is doing things correctly. He writes:

“How much overlap do you have to have with roofing and ridge cap? Is 2.5″ enough and then you use metal to metal screw you do not have to penetrate the purlins?

I cannot vouch for how other building providers assemble their buildings, so I will go with how we do it.

To calculate a building’s roof steel length we take one-half of the building’s span (or horizontal measure from peak/ridge to the outside of columns) and multiply this times a factor for roof slope. 

For slope factor – multiply slope by itself and add 144. Take the square root (use a calculator) of this number and divide by 12.

Example to calculate slope factor for 3.67/12:  [3.67 X 3.67] + 144 = 157.47. Square root of 157.47 = 12.549. Divided by 12 = 1.0457.

For a 40 foot width gabled building with a 4/12 slope this length would be 21.082 feet (call it 21’1”).

Outside of columns at eave we have a 2x of some sort as an eave strut, with a width of 1-1/2 inches and roof steel must overhang this by 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 inches. Using 21’1” for our roof steel length, this means the top edge of roof steel will now be four inches from the peak/ridge.

Standard steel ridge caps are generally very close to 14 inches in overall width, giving somewhere around three inches of overlap on each side. Placed in this overlap will be either a form fitted outside closure strip or a vented closure (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/11/ridge-cap-foam-closure-strips/). Either of these products properly installed will prevent weather (rain and/or snow) from being driven beneath the ridge cap into your building. You can read a little more on correct placements of closures here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/11/outside-closure-and-vented-closure-installation/.

By using metal-to-metal stitch screws to attach the ridge cap to high ribs of roof steel, there is no need to have to miraculously hit any ridge purlins with screws. Here is a brief tale involving a builder who went off on his own tangent https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/12/stitch-screws/.

In summary Mike, provided you have a 2-1/2 inch overlap, have used proper ridge closures and stitch screws your life will be good and you will have a happy end result!