Tag Archives: post protectors

Building in Japan, Raising a Building, and In-Ground Use Posts

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about the feasibility of building in northern Japan, the possibility of raising an existing post frame building, what the best treatment for in-ground use on columns would be, and if post protectors are needed.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m currently evaluating the feasibility of building a residential pole barn in northern Japan, and I was wondering if you have any resources, anecdotes, warnings, or recommendations as I begin my research – especially information that would be difficult to find on Youtube (I’m gobbling up everything I can find RE visas, land purchasing, etc). I’m a US citizen with a budget of $250,000 USD cash, familiar with the countryside but have never lived there. Thank you. MICK in ST. PAUL

DEAR MICK: If my Uncle Neil were still alive, we could pick his brain, as he built extensively in Japan (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/05/japan-and-hansen-pole-buildings/).

In reading through Japan’s importation requirements for lumber (https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName=Import%20Regulations%20and%20Standards%20for%20Wood%20Products_Tokyo_Japan_12-23-2019), I believe what we typically provide will be acceptable as it is all dried and heat treated. For export, we would normally deliver to Port of Tacoma, to be loaded into a container for transport.

Japan’s building code has strict limitations on deflection due to seismic forces, however we are used to engineering for Seismic Zone E in California, so unless you will be building a very tall building, or multi stories, I do not see this as being an insurmountable hurdle.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good afternoon. I have a 60′ x 120′ pole building with sand/gravel floors. The truss height is 12′. The barn was originally constructed for a riding arena and horse stable. The roof is shingled. I live in mid-Michigan.

The reason I am writing is I wondered if your company ever raises pole buildings…ideally I would like mine raised by 2′ so the ceiling height is 14′. If you don’t do that kind of work do you have anyone you recommend I contact?

Thanks! MICHAEL in MICHIGAN

DEAR MICHAEL: 12′ would have made for a very short riding arena. We are not contractors, so raising a building would be outside of our wheelhouse, and frankly – very few contractors would be willing to take on a risk such as this. You might reach out to firms specializing in building moving, as they have equipment allowing them to support entire buildings and lift them. In any case, we would strongly advise (as in definitely) any such repair to be done only to specifications designed by a Registered Professional Engineer.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is the better treatment for 6×6 going into the ground or basically what is the best grade post for ground contact and should post protectors be used? BILL in CHESTER

DEAR BILL: Building Codes require any structural in ground wood to be treated to UC-4B specifications. Sadly, your big box stores and most lumberyards do not have adequately treated wood in stock and have to special order it. We would recommend using true glulaminated columns, rather than solid sawn, as they are straighter, stronger, lighter than 6×6 and each 2×6 ply has been treated completely through. Hansen Pole Buildings can provide these as part of your fully engineered building package. As for post protectors, even though properly pressure preservative treated wood should outlast anyone alive on our planet today, if it gives you a greater degree of comfort to utilize them, we can also provide them.

Hi, I Should be an Engineer

Hi, I Should Be an Engineer. Can You Tell Me What I Left Out?

Seemingly every Spring I receive an email similar to this one from JOHN in UNION DALE, who it sadly appears has not done much (if any) homework in reading my articles.

JOHN writes:

“ Hi, I have been doing a couple of months homework on making my pole barn, my plan is a 30×50. Right now my plan is using (16) 6x6x16 pole about 52 inches in the ground, the spacing between posts will be 10 ft, now I have not decided on a concrete cookie before the setting the post or gravel first has a drainage layer the set the pole and then use about 5 bags of concrete for uplift protection and the normal back fill, for the posts I got post protectors, so the wood is separated from the soil, my plan is to use double  2×12 for the top strapping with the posts notched at the top for added snow load, has far has the roof it will either be a 4/12 or 5/12 pitch my plan is using 2×6 rafters that I’m making on the ground and hoisting up by myself and they will be on 48 inch on center, my purlins are going to be 2x4s about 2ft apart and standard metal to finish it off, if you can can you please let me know if I left anything out, thanks ps I forgot to say the door opening on a non-load bearing wall will be a 12ft wide and 10ft tall, I’m thinking about putting a door  on a load bearing wall a 10ft, all doors are going to be sliding barn doors.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru Responds:

Well John, you have left out a crucial part. One no proper pole barn should be without. Plans designed and sealed by a Registered Professional Engineer specific to your building at your site. To build without them is, in my humble opinion, fool hardy and I cannot endorse your plan of attack or methods of construction without them. Outside of this – attempting to field construct your own roof trusses is not a good choice. Prefabricated trusses are truly a bargain, especially when considering risks involved should your home made trusses collapse injuring or worse killing you or a loved one. 

For last year’s related article, please read: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/05/self-designed-pole-buildings/

For extended reading on the misadventures of site built roof trusses: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/12/site-built-roof-trusses/

Pressure Treated Lumber

Preserving Wood Columns Beyond Code Requirements

The Building Codes (IBC – International Building Code and IRC – International Residential Code) specify minimum requirements for pressure treated lumber used to structurally support buildings.

My previous dissertations on pressure treating are available for your reading pleasure here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2012/10/pressure-treated-posts-2/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2014/05/building-code-3/

Pressure Treated PostsHansen Pole Buildings Designer Kelly brought to me the question (posed by one of his clients) about the available (and feasibility) of the utilization of greater levels of preservative treatment chemicals for wooden columns embedded in the ground.

Higher levels of pressure preservative treating are available for pressure treated lumber. However they are going to be done by special order at the pressure treating plant. Special orders come with “special” (read – higher, sometimes MUCH higher) pricing, as well as extended periods for delivery of product.

The reality is, if the Code requirements will last the useable lifespan of the building or more, an increase in the treating levels is probably not the best investment of a building owner’s hard earned funds.

If one is skeptical (or even unbelieving) about the ability of properly treated pressure preservative columns to last when embedded in the ground, there are some alternatives.

Carrying the argument even further, columns can be removed from ground contact completely! Engineered brackets are available which allow columns to be mounted to foundations, or even concrete piers which are poured into the ground: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2012/09/concrete-brackets-2/.

Also available, are patented pre-cast concrete short columns with brackets on top, which can be placed into previously augured holes and the wood columns are then attached to the brackets.

The end game is, there is a design solution available to fit every future building owner’s level of comfort and pocket book when it comes to pressure treated lumber.

PostShield

Hansen Buildings is always looking for new products or techniques which could be incorporated into our pole buildings to offer clients a better product. One resource we utilize is to monitor websites of others who provide post frame buildings, whether constructed or DIY (Do-It-Yourself) building kits.

In checking out one of these sites, I found this offering:

PostShield protects your barn’s posts against rotting with a layer of modified asphalt. A durable film layer protects the asphalt. The specialty-formulated adhesive self-seals around nails, crews and other punctures. For a very small investment, PostShield can add years to the life of your pole barn!”

Sounded pretty exciting to me, so I wanted to know more! Going to the PostShield website I found:

PostShield, is a UV impregnated PVC ‘sleeve’ that makes installation, replacement and repair of 4×4 wood posts simpler, faster and safer. It extends the life of posts used for signs, fences, retaining walls…anywhere a 4×4 wood post is used. PostShield is being used by homeowners, fencing contractors, State DOT’s, Parks & Recreation Departments and CalTrans. 

PostShield helps prevent decay and extends the life of wooden posts by creating a barrier between wood and dirt, draining water and venting moisture.

Post replacement becomes quick and easy and you will no longer need to dig out old concrete. Simply pull the old post out of the existing PostShield and slide a new one in. PostShield is a simple, cost effective solution for prolonging the life of wooden posts.”

In reading further on the Post Shield website, it turns out they are ONLY available in one size – to fit a 4×4. Now, other than perhaps for an entry door post, I would hope no one is offering post frame buildings with 4×4 columns!

Apparently the PostShield patent covers a myriad of sizes, however if sizes to fit typical pole building post sizes were made available, for use in pole barns, I see some potential structural concerns.

“The design of the PostShield allows the post to “breathe”. Specially designed ribs on the interior surfaces, the ones that come into contact with the wood 4×4, allow moisture to evaporate away from the post.”

PostShields are placed into concrete in a hole. The idea is to be able to slide a post into the PostShield, with fasteners at the top – into the post, being the only thing resisting wind uplift. It would require a significantly large number of substantially sized fasteners to be able to resist the uplift forces generated by a building of any significant size.

 

The idea here for a pole building – is that there is a binding value (which can be calculated by the way) between the concrete and earth, and then between the concrete to the post, to create the foundation….and hold the pole building in the ground.  I may offend a few here, but I have to say it…putting a plastic sleeve around a post so it “easily slips out” is like putting a post condom on it.  Talk about negating why you are putting poles in the ground in the first place….to create the foundation.  I have the same opinion of sono tubes – but that’s another day and another blog.

My real issue – why even mention a product as being available, if it is not applicable to the end use?