Tag Archives: unfaced batts

Advice on Retro Insulating a Minnesota Pole Barn

Advice on Retro Insulating a Minnesota Pole Barn

Reader RYAN in ELK RIVER writes:

“Happy Thanksgiving! I am working on insulating a pole barn that is on a property I bought. I framed between trusses with 2×6 and plywood on top. I plan to have 3″ of foam blown in. Is there anything I need to be aware of if that is the route I take? Also, in the walls I installed R6 foam board between the purlins, and R 19 fiberglass Batts in the wall cavity. Should I install vapor barrier? I plan on a 42″ steel wainscot around the bottom, with drywall on the rest of the wall and ceiling. 

Thanks for your input! There seems to be lots of different answers out there from the research I’ve done.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

In Minnesota, closed cell spray foam has to be so thick to meet R value requirements, it normally makes it impractical as a design solution. If you do opt for spray foam, use closed cell (rather than open) and spray directly to the inside of steel roofing and/or siding, for best results. If you are creating a dead attic space above an OSB ceiling, closed cell spray foam can be applied to underside of OSB, however space above must be adequately ventilated (ideally with eave intake and ridge exhaust points). You also need a provision for condensation prevention on the bottom of roof steel (if one is not already present).

In walls, you want only a single vapor barrier. If your foam boards were properly sealed, then they are your vapor barrier and you should use unfaced batts to fill balance of wall insulation cavity. My preference would be rockwool, rather than fiberglass, as it is not affected by moisture.

Be aware, your building is now going to dry to inside, so be prepared to invest in mechanical dehumidification.

Adding Heated Space in a Pole Barn

Adding Heated Space in a Pole Barn

Reader THOM in COLRAIN writes:

“ I’m creating a 20′ X 30′ heated shop space in the center of a 40′ X 70′ pole barn.  One 20′ side is on an outside wall.  The other three have 2 X 4 studs.  I’m using rough-cut 1″ for the walls of the heated space.  The cold side of the stud wall does not need to have any sheathing, though it can, if necessary.

Where should the reflectix go?  I’m comfortable with it being on the hot side of the 1″ boards.  Does the heated shop count as the air gap, or should it go under the sheathing.  I look forward to your response, and Happy New Year!”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru says:

Happy New Year to you as well!

I noticed your umass.edu email address, our youngest son is working on his doctorate in exercise and muscle physiology at UMass Amherst.

Reflectix® is a reflective Radiant Barrier (RRB) and not an insulation (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/04/reflective-insulation-wars/).

Many considerations need to be made when conditioning a space.

Unless you are going to have HVAC provisions to dry the inside of your heated shop space, you want to dry your space to the exterior . As such, you should have a WRB (like Tyvek) on your shop exterior, then either unfaced batts with 6mil poly on inside, or kraft faced batts. Your ceiling insulation should be unfaced without a vapor barrier. You will probably want to have some sort of exterior sheathing or other barrier to keep rodents from nesting in your insulation. In answer to where Reflectix should go – probably not on this space you are creating.

There is yet another consideration to be made. Most cold storage post frame (pole barn) buildings with concrete slabs on grade do not have vapor barriers underneath. You can determine if yours does or does not have one by placing a wrench on your floor overnight. Next morning, when you remove this wrench, if a dark space appears on your floor where your wrench was, you do not have a vapor barrier underneath. If this is your case, a sealant should be applied on your slab to minimize moisture entering your conditioned space.