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Stamped Engineered Plans, No Foundation, and Economical Builds

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about Hansen providing stamped engineered plans, buildings with “no foundation,” and if a two story or single story structure is more economical to build.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you supply stamped engineering plans for building inspection purposes? DOUG in BENEZETTE

DEAR DOUG: Every building we provide comes with site specific, engineer sealed plans showing every member, its location and connection, as well as engineer sealed verifying calculations.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I see buildings with no foundation what is the code for pole barn foundations in Michigan? ANTHONY in GLADWIN

DEAR ANTHONY: IRC and IBC codes allow for post frame (pole barn) foundations to be columns either embedded in ground (properly pressure preservative treated, with sufficient means to disperse weight across bottom of holes, usually via a concrete footing) or attached to ICC-ESR approved wet set brackets poured into concrete piers.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Which would be more economical, to build a 40x64x12 post frame shouse with attic trusses over a 40 x 32 section for an upstairs or to build a 40 x 72 x 12 with no upstairs needed? BETH in CADIZ

DEAR BETH: All on one level will be more economical. Attic trusses do not come cheap, plus you lose the space wasted by stairs. One level also affords accessibility for those with limited mobility.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Concrete, Barndominium, Footings, Shouse, Budget, Professional Engineer, floorplans, Pole Barn Questions, Columns, Pole Barn Design, Building Department, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn holes and tagged pole barn foundations, wet set brackets, embedded columns, stamped plans, footings, Plans, engineer sealed plans on July 2, 2025 by Rick Ochs.

A Conventional Foundation, Weather Resistant Barrier, and Moisture Issues

Today the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about building a “conventional” foundation, drainage between steel and shiplap siding, and potential moisture issues of stick built vs post frame foundations.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am building a 24X48 pole barn, but instead of using a slab, I would like to have a conventional foundation. Is there any advice you can give me on layout and construction using this method? ROBERT in FRENCH CAMP

DEAR ROBERT: We can engineer your building to be attached to a concrete, block or ICF foundation wall using wet set brackets. As an alternative, we can also provide a pressure preservative treated Permanent Wood Foundation. Details of your choice of system will be included on your fully engineered building plans, included with your investment into one of our building kits.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am installing pole barn metal on a shiplap sheathed chicken coop/shop. Windows framed with J-profile trim. 8-foot walls with 2-foot eaves. Panels resting on treated 2x2s. Should I worry about water drainage behind the panels? Drain holes at bottom of panels?

Thank you. HAROLD in WELCH

DEAR HAROLD: You should probably place a Weather Resistant Barrier between shiplap and steel siding. As long as you seal windows well, you should not have any issues or need drain holes at bottom of panels.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I was confused with pole verse stick built structures. I thought that I needed to pour a concrete footer to put the building on to help give me a vapor barrier. Im placing this building in a area where I get some water and I wanted to keep it 8 inch on the perimeter. If I was to use a pole built would moisture come underneath into the building. JOSHUA in EDGEWATER

DEAR JOSHUA: Having a continuous footing and foundation will not act as a vapor barrier (but will add to your expense). Building Codes require a minimum 6mil vapor barrier under any concrete slab poured in a conditioned building (and we recommend using one under any interior pour). We normally recommend using thicker material (ideally 15mil) to help prevent damage during pouring slabs on grade.

If your site is in a location where water might collect or pond, your site should be built up with good, compactable fill to a level higher than any possible water depth (and some excess wouldn’t hurt).

This entry was posted in Ventilation, Footings, Building Drainage, Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Building Styles and Designs, Pole Building How To Guides, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged moisture barrier, Drainage, pole barn foundations, visqueen vapor barrier, concrete foundations on August 30, 2021 by admin.

Scissor Trusses, Hanger Bolts, and Foundation Options

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers questions about scissor trusses, wood framing and hanger bolts for sliding doors, as well as a foundation option for a post frame house.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a 30×40 pole barn. And my lower beam on the trusses is to low for my car lift. Is scissor trusses as strong or stronger then common trusses and I know without a engineer doing the math it’s hard to say. ZACH in ATASCOCITA

DEAR ZACH: Scissor trusses can be engineered to be every bit as strong as conventional trusses. If your idea is to swap out some or all of them, you would be looking at a highly labor intensive project. It might very well be less expensive to just add a taller bay onto one end of your building.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: The round rail hanger bolt on our sliding door got pulled out of the hole drilled through the 2×6 at the top of the door. We have made angle iron for the top and bottom of the 2×6 with 1/2in holes but are finding it difficult to get the bolt through the holes. Is there an easy way to reinstall the door hanger without removing the entire door from the track? AARON in MARYSVILLE

DEAR AARON: You have just discovered one of many reasons why sliding doors should not ever be framed out of lumber. Steel door components (such as horizontal girts) are far superior in every way. They are stronger against wind loads, they do not warp or twist, doors are phenomenally lighter weight and trolley hanger bolts never pull through!

In direct answer to your question – you are going to have to remove entire door, reinstall trolley hanger bolt and rehang door. This might be an ideal time to totally replace your wooden components.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can a pole barn be a permanent house residence, and can they be built on a walled foundation? TERRY in AKRON

DEAR TERRY: Post frame (pole barn) buildings can be permanent residences – I happen to live in one myself, with about 8000 square feet of finished space. They can be built either with embedded columns, or on a partial or full foundation. For more information please visit www.HansenPoleBuildings.com , navigate to upper right corner of the page and click on SEARCH type BARNDOMINIUM in search box and click ENTER. This will bring up a plethora of relevant articles for your reading enjoyment.