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Converting Plans, Floor Truss Prices, and Bird Issues in Pole barn

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about converting conventional plans to “post beam frame,” pricing on floor trusses, and possible installation of metal ceiling to eliminate bird issues.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a set of plans for a that were designed to be conventional built. Would you be able to convert them to a post beam frame? If so what is the charge for that? JASON in BISMARCK

DEAR JAYSON: We work with clients every day who, just like you, have plans for a conventional stick built building. Our team is ready to assist you and when you order your building from us, engineer sealed plans are absolutely free.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Need price on 25′ floor trusses. Sub floor Engineered Need: # 64 Delivered to zip 92285 RICHARD in LANDERS

DEAR RICHARD: Thank you for your interest. Need to know use of building – residential, commercial, etc., any specific loading requirements? Deflection limitations, etc.? Spacing (typical is 24 inches on center)? Also, please send me an email of your plans so we can determine end conditions (bearing on top of a plate or walls, or top chord hung). Delivery charges will depend upon if you want them ASAP or if you can be flexible so we can combine them with other shipments heading your direction.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a 22 year old pole barn with metal roof and exterior. Because of the bird issue I have had over the past year I wanted to see if a metal ceiling could be installed. Barn is 30 x 34 but am not sure if the trusses would be able to hold the weight. Also the question of liner vs regular steel metal panels should be used. The roof has insulation panels underneath attached pics. Any advice you can give is appreciated. LORI in WASHINGTON

DEAR LORI: Most pole barn trusses are designed to support little or no weight added to bottom chords. With this being said a steel liner panel ceiling, without any framing being added (steel will easily span distance between your trusses), will add insignificantly to load (less than a pound per square foot). Chances are good, your trusses will carry this weight. You will want to make sure dead attic space being created has adequate ventilation intake (typically at eaves) and (ridge vent) to avoid having mold and mildew issues. Liner panels will be wholly proper for your installation and will save you a few dollars.

This entry was posted in Building Interior, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Lumber, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses and tagged , , , , , on by .

Ceiling Addition, Drywall Orientation, Ridge Vent Replacement

This week the Pole Barn Guru addresses reader questions regarding the ability to hang a ceiling addition in a Hansen Building, if it is better to hang drywall parallel or perpendicular to framing, and if Hansen can replace a ridge vent in Buffalo, NY

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I purchased a 25′ x 35′ kit from you and was wondering if I can hang a ceiling in my pole barn? I have 11′ or 12′ trusses on center and was worried about the strength of the trusses to hold more weight. THOMAS in NEW TRIPOLI

DEAR THOMAS: Your building’s roof trusses are designed to support a five (5) psf (pounds per square foot) dead load from the bottom chords. This would be sufficient to carry 2×6 ceiling joists 24 inches on center on hangers between bottom chords, as well as 5/8″ gypsum wallboard (drywall) and blown in or batt fiberglass insulation.

Please note – in your provided photo wall girts have been externally mounted, they have been engineered to be placed bookshelf style, as externally mounted girts on 11′ and greater spans will fail due to bending and will excessively deflect. They should be removed, trimmed and placed to match engineered plans. Also – end trusses are to be notched into columns 1-1/2” to provide proper and adequate bearing. They should be carefully removed, notches cut, then properly placed.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I got my final inspection last week, so I have finished the workshop according to the county. Now I am working on the insulation and interior wall and ceiling finishing. For insulation, I am using R-19 craft faced batting for both walls and ceiling and might later add blown in above the ceiling to further increase the R value.

I have a question on the best orientation for the drywall for ceiling and walls. It seems that running the sheets perpendicular to the ceiling purlins and commercial girts would provide greater strength than parallel. What is your experience? I am planning on using 5/8 inch board.
Thanks, LEE in HUNTSVILLE

DEAR LEE: For best installation you will want to run drywall perpendicular to framing (e.g. vertically on walls) https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/11-reasons-post-frame-commercial-girted-walls-are-best-for-drywall/
Ideally, you should use unfaced insulation in your ceiling, this allows any warm moist air within your building to escape into attic space and be properly exhausted through ridge vent.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: You’re listed as building pole barns in Buffalo, NY. I want to find someone that can replace my ridge vent that goes the full length of the building. Who do you recommend in the area and what choices do you have for a new vent for me? GARY in BUFFALO

vented-closure-stripDEAR GARY: If your steel panels are 3′ wide, with 5/8″-3/4″ high ribs every 9″ we can provide form fitted ridge closures, if so, please reach out to Materials@HansenPoleBuildings.com with your zip code and length of ridge line for pricing and availability.

Most of our clients are DIYers, should you need an installer, we would suggest your try posting in your nearest Craigslist under “GIGS”.

This entry was posted in Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Ventilation, Building Interior, Professional Engineer and tagged , , , , , , on by .

LP Siding, Ceilings, and an Inspector’s questions!

This Monday, the Pole Barn Guru discussed attaching LP siding on a post frame home, installing ceiling panels, and an Inspector’s questions.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am looking at the possibly of installing standard LP lap siding on a post frame home, in that case it would seem like I would need to go with vertical studs. As a look at cost and installation time, metal siding is starting to look a little better. TRENT in WALLA WALLA

DEAR TRENT: My own home features steel siding and wouldn’t consider doing it any other way. Besides being less expensive to install (both material and labor), steel siding will prove to be extremely durable and requires no maintenance. For sidings such as LP lap, you can still use bookshelf girts, reducing girt dimensions from 2×8 to 2×6 and placing vertical 2×4 nailers every two feet upon girt exterior face running from pressure preservative treated splash plank up to soffit supports. This results in a savings of around 20% in assembly framing lumber.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: How far apart should the strapping be for installing metal on a ceiling. Trusses are 4ft apart metal is Tuff Rib 3/4 inch I think. BERNIE in ARMSTRONG

DEAR BERNIE: By “strapping” I will guess you are meaning supports for the steel ceiling liner panels. If you install panels perpendicular to trusses you can screw directly to bottom chords without any additional framing.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: My building inspector is requesting information on the direct to ground treated aspect of the glulaminated timbers in my building.  The wording on the posts for the direct to ground side are covered with concrete.  The color alone isn’t enough.  Where can I get this info?  Also the LU28 hangars call out 3 1.5 inch nails per side to truss, and 2 1.5 per side to Purlin. Which is 10 mails per Purlin bracket. He is requesting all holes being filled.  Do I argue or do I fill the holes? RICK in PARMA

DEAR RICK: Justine forwarded to you manufacturer’s warranty information in regards to your building’s glulaminated columns, specifying level of treatment as adequate for structural in ground use.

Your inspector will be merely enforcing information denoted upon your engineered building plans. Unless called out for otherwise, all holes in hangers having wood to nail into must be filled. If nailing into a two ply member (e.g. double truss) 10d common x 3″ nails should be used. I also just happened to have a Simpson LU28 sitting next to me atop my desk – I count three holes per side to nail into purlin and four holes per side to nail into truss, total of 14 holes per bracket.

 

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Building Siding, Trusses, Fasteners, Pole Barn Questions and tagged , , , , , , on by .
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