Tag Archives: treated wood

Determining Rot in Existing Horse Barn Poles

Determining Rot in Existing Horse Barn Poles

Loyal reader KEVIN in EFLAND writes:

“Hello! First, thank you for all the super helpful information about pole barns! Now the context and question…. We’re thinking about making an offer on a house with a 5 stall horse pole barn, probably close to 30 poles, maybe 1,000 square feet. The house was built in 2007 so I assume the barn was built the same year and certainly built before 2012. The site is all clay. I suspect the poles were not treated for UC-4b but don’t see any signs of rot. So, I think if I have one question it is there a person in this area (Efland, Mebane, Hillsborough NC) that could inspect the barn and let me know what they think? Poles are rotting or not rotting… If they are rotting, here’s how long the poles will still be OK, here’s a plan and cost to replace them, etc. Now, if you afforded me a second question, short of digging 6 inches deep around every pole to look for rot, are there things I can do to see if there is an issue? The barn itself still looks nice and square… no noticeable sag. There’s certainly some rot on a small, maybe 4 foot portion of what I think is the sill plate. Thank you for your help!”

Thank you for your kind words, they are much appreciated.

Clay-heavy soil creates significant challenges for structural lumber because its poor drainage prevents natural drying process necessary to inhibit fungal proliferation. When under treated columns are embedded in these environments, surrounding earth acts as a reservoir for water, maintaining high moisture content required by wood-destroying organisms to thrive and initiate premature decay.

Incorrectly rated lumber can fail prematurely when exposed to aggressive environmental conditions accelerating decay. Primary factor is persistent moisture, as decay fungi require wood’s moisture content to exceed 20 to 25 percent to thrive. Poorly draining soil, such as heavy clay, or areas where water pools around post base maintain this high moisture content, creating an ideal habitat for rot. Constant saturation also promotes chemical preservatives leaching into surrounding soil.

Soil chemistry also affects preservative longevity. Highly acidic soils (e.g., in peat bogs or areas with high organic matter) are aggressive toward copper-based preservatives and accelerate their depletion. Site-specific factors, including soil type, geology, and climate, directly influence rate biocides (treatment chemicals) are lost. Decay is a biological process driven by fungi and, in some regions, subterranean termites.

While treated wood resists these biological attackers, a consistently warm and wet environment increases potential for decay organisms. Fungi thrive between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, meaning southern regions with high humidity present a greater decay hazard than cooler, drier climates.

Reliable local professionals in your area can be found through digital matching services where you can provide specific details about your barn to receive relevant quotes. When interviewing candidates, it is essential to ask for a customer reference list and their specific experience with wood-frame decay or post-foundation issues to ensure they are right fit for your property.

Structural engineering firms often offer specialized condition assessments going beyond standard home inspections, making them well-suited for identifying whether post rot compromises your barn’s structural stability. Standard industry practices for moisture inspection often involve using a probe meter to determine wood’s internal moisture content, crucial in diagnosing potential rot extent. Licensed and certified experts are required to perform these calculations, as mistakes in structural repair can be extremely dangerous and jeopardize anyone near buildings safety.

Flat rate pricing is common for these assessment types, with structural engineers typically charging $550 on average for an inspection and necessary structural calculations. Depending on your pole barn’s complexity and how easily accessible posts are for testing, you may find costs range from $300 to $800. Hourly professional fees generally fall between $100 and $250 per hour if work is not billed as a flat rate project. Project success factors depend on clear communication about your goals, so prioritize firms demonstrating responsiveness and provide practical, cost-effective solutions for unique building issues. Hidden defect detection is a primary objective for professionals who perform thorough inspections to ensure your investment remains safe and functional for years to come. Professional oversight ensures any identified rot is addressed according to safety standards, protecting both your property and those who use it.

To determine, on your own, if an embedded pole barn post is rotting, inspect post base for decay signs, such as softness or sponginess when probed with a screwdriver. If screwdriver sinks more than one-quarter inch into wood or feels compromised, it indicates structural failure due to rot.

Post Brackets, Cross Bracing, and Pressure Treated Wood

This week the Pole Barn Guru tackles reader questions about a building set into a slope with use of post brackets, the possible use of “cross bracing” for wall girts, and understanding pressure treated wood.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I would like to build a 32′ x 48′ 2 story pole building where two of the sides of at least the lower floor are at least partially set into the hillside on the property. I envision the two sides set into the hill to be concrete foundation walls. Sort of a daylight basement. The lower floor would be a woodshop and the upper floor a two bedroom apartment. I am assuming a concrete foundation with Laminated “poles” mounted in brackets as opposed to buried. the “poles” on the two sides set into the hill would be shorter than on the other two sides. With the available space, the two story concept works better than having everything on a single story. Is this even possible? What would a ROM cost for a kit like that cost?

Thank you BILL in WEST RICHLAND

DEAR BILL: Your idea is totally possible. I have done it myself. In my case I had 12 feet of grade change across my building’s 40 foot width. I used ICFs full height on one sidewall and stepping down across rear endwall. Columns on these two walls were mounted using wet set brackets, other two walls had embedded columns. This process could also be used with poured concrete or block walls. We have also developed a system to use columns placed in a permanent wood foundation.

Attached photo is of my own building.

This is being shared with your Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer who will be reaching out to you shortly.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: When using bookshelf girts is cross bracing used between posts or are the girts when blocked provide the support? WINSTON in MOULTON

DEAR WINSTON: No cross bracing is required when using bookshelf girts. Once installed (ideally blocked solid to columns at each end) and sheathing (OSB, plywood, structural panels or steel siding) is applied, your wall and girts are more than adequately supported and this assembly is fairly rigid.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I read the article regarding treated wood. I am still a little puzzled as to what treating you would use for ground contact purposes, especially the upright poles. Do you have any other articles regarding this subject or have input you could email me? Much appreciated, thank you. KELLY in VICTOR

DEAR KELLY: Pressure preservative treated wood standards can be confusing even for lumber dealers, professional builders and building inspectors. For structural building columns, all end tags should have UC-4B marked on them. UC-4B is for “Heavy Duty” use. This American Wood Preservers Association infographic might prove helpful to understanding proper uses for pressure preservative treated wood: https://www.spib.org/uploads/pdfs/ResidentialInfographic2016.pdf

 

 

 

Post Brackets, Cross Bracing, and Pressure Treated Wood

This week the Pole Barn Guru tackles reader questions about a building set into a slope with use of post brackets, the possible use of “cross bracing” for wall girts, and understanding pressure treated wood.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I would like to build a 32′ x 48′ 2 story pole building where two of the sides of at least the lower floor are at least partially set into the hillside on the property. I envision the two sides set into the hill to be concrete foundation walls. Sort of a daylight basement. The lower floor would be a woodshop and the upper floor a two bedroom apartment. I am assuming a concrete foundation with Laminated “poles” mounted in brackets as opposed to buried. the “poles” on the two sides set into the hill would be shorter than on the other two sides. With the available space, the two story concept works better than having everything on a single story. Is this even possible? What would a ROM cost for a kit like that cost?

Thank you BILL in WEST RICHLAND

DEAR BILL: Your idea is totally possible. I have done it myself. In my case I had 12 feet of grade change across my building’s 40 foot width. I used ICFs full height on one sidewall and stepping down across rear endwall. Columns on these two walls were mounted using wet set brackets, other two walls had embedded columns. This process could also be used with poured concrete or block walls. We have also developed a system to use columns placed in a permanent wood foundation.

Attached photo is of my own building.

This is being shared with your Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer who will be reaching out to you shortly.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: When using bookshelf girts is cross bracing used between posts or are the girts when blocked provide the support? WINSTON in MOULTON

DEAR WINSTON: No cross bracing is required when using bookshelf girts. Once installed (ideally blocked solid to columns at each end) and sheathing (OSB, plywood, structural panels or steel siding) is applied, your wall and girts are more than adequately supported and this assembly is fairly rigid.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I read the article regarding treated wood. I am still a little puzzled as to what treating you would use for ground contact purposes, especially the upright poles. Do you have any other articles regarding this subject or have input you could email me? Much appreciated, thank you. KELLY in VICTOR

DEAR KELLY: Pressure preservative treated wood standards can be confusing even for lumber dealers, professional builders and building inspectors. For structural building columns, all end tags should have UC-4B marked on them. UC-4B is for “Heavy Duty” use. This American Wood Preservers Association infographic might prove helpful to understanding proper uses for pressure preservative treated wood: https://www.spib.org/uploads/pdfs/ResidentialInfographic2016.pdf

 

 

 

Wood Preservative

What I Learned Today – Wood Preservative

Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer Rachel had an interesting story today.

She reported, “A builder says he uses Borax around the bottom of the steel.  I thought this was strange and he didn’t say why he was using it.”

Being the naturally curious sort, Rachel started researching on the internet, and this is what she found:

Pressure preservative treated lumber is what most of us recognize as a piece of treated wood. The treating process forces chemicals, under pressure, into the wood fibers – which inhibits decay by making the wood inedible to termites and impervious to mold and decay fungi.

Rachel discovered raw (untreated) lumber can be manually treated with a solution of 10 ounces of 20 Mule Team® Borax dissolved and well mixed into a gallon of water. Once mixed, the Borax solution is to be sprayed onto lumber and a gallon should do about 250 board feet of lumber.

Me, being old enough to remember “Death Valley Days” presented by Ronald Reagan or Dale Robertson and narrated by Merle Haggard – this is the only other thing I associated with 20 Mule Team® Borax.

In doing further research, I found that boric acid of borate treatments kills the protozoa which live in the digestive tracts of termites. Since those protozoa are responsible for digesting the wood a termite eats, their death makes it impossible for termites to garner any nutrition from eating. However, unless borate treatments are applied when a structure is built, they should not be used. Borate treatments applied to established buildings are largely ineffective.

Some wood treating industry experts claim there is a wood preservative which is cost effective, performs well and is environmentally friendly, the “perfect” preservative – borates. The chemical was supposedly so non-toxic, one could drink it.

When CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) was generally removed from the marketplace (other than for limited specific uses), chemical companies began a mad dash to develop a binder which could prevent borates from leaching.

Attempts were made to encapsulate the borate in wood using sodium silicate to reduce its exposure to conditions which would leach the borate. Cost considerations to install equipment at the production level and increased treatment costs seem to be some reasons this ‘miracle borate’ did not advance within the industry.

In addition, the industry learned permanently locking borates into wood wasn’t necessarily a good thing. If borates stop migrating, they stop killing the fungi and insects. Borates don’t kill on contact, like spraying on a can of Raid. They act as a drying agent; they dry out the insides of an insect so it can’t eat any more. If borates are fixed permanently in the wood, experience has shown us the wood preservative will not be effective. The borate needs to be mobile in the wood in order for it to be efficacious against decay and termites. It may be possible to develop a semi-fixed borate where the diffusion process is greatly slowed down. So far, no developer of this style of borate wood preservative has opted to commercialize it, however.

While its solubility may prevent borates from becoming an all-purpose super-treatment, the same characteristic of preservative mobility also helps borates diffuse throughout the wood after treatment to effectively serve its protective purpose. The end use of the product is quite specific and limited: a service condition in above-ground applications which is protected from continued exposure to water.

My conclusion – the builder may be doing his “magic” by sprinkling 20 Mule Team® Borax around the base of a completed building, however the reality is, it is “far more show…than go”! Look for proper wood preservative methods by purchasing properly treated wood.