Tag Archives: shutters

A Residence in GA, Building in Stages, and “Barn Door Type” Coverings

This Wednesday, the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about building a residential structure in Gainesville, Hall county, Georgia, the best cost saving method for building in stages, and the use of “barn door type” coverings for windows in a remote Colorado cabin.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can I build a residential pole barn in Gainesville, Hall county, Georgia? ROCHELLE in GAINESVILLE

DEAR ROCHELLE: Fully engineered post frame (pole barn) homes are 100% structurally code conforming buildings and as such may be constructed in any jurisdiction in America. Your county Planning Department, may have specific restrictions as to choices of siding and roofing materials and in some instances even exterior color choices. You can email Interim Director of Development Services Barry Shaw rochellebivens@gmail.com to find out if any such restrictions apply to your property.

This reading should prove helpful: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/01/your-barndominiums-planning-department/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I would like to build an enclosed pole barn building but would like to do it in stages to afford the construction by starting with just the pole barn on dirt, then later adding the cement floor, walls and doors. Is this possible? Can I provide the county the entire project plans and still build it in stages? I do not believe I can afford to build it all at once. I would like the building to be approximately 30×40 with a covered exterior open air front section at the roll up door entrance, like an oversized car port before entering the enclosed portion of the building. I attached an example of something similar to what I would like the final building to look like. Thank you for your help. WAYNE in LAKELAND

DEAR WAYNE: Stage one should be to construct the roof, along with enclosing walls where they are later planned to be. This will be roughly same investment as building just a roof, due to ability of walls to transfer wind shear loads to ground minimizing column sizes as well as concrete needed. We can engineer with openings for your future doors and concrete floor can be added at a later date. Keep in mind, your county will usually only keep a building permit open for a finite amount of time (although call for progress inspections every four to six months can sometimes circumvent this) and you will be unable to obtain an occupancy permit until all work has been completed.

 

About Hansen BuildingsDEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello – our Hansen building will be located deep in the Rockies. We will have two windows on the lower level but would like to ensure that no one can break the windows and enter our remote cabin. Do you sell “barn door type” coverings or shutters that can be closed over the windows and locked from the inside to enhance security? TONY in LEADVILLE

DEAR TONY: First, thank you for your investment in a new Hansen Pole Building, very much appreciated. We do not offer any such shutters, as there are a plethora of options available online and they can be found by a Google search. Please remember to share lots of progress (and of course when completed) photos with us.

 

 

 

An Apartment Addition?

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can you supply me with a copy of the sparrow barn in Texas plans It is a wedding venue I would like to copy. JAMES in HAMPTON

DEAR JAMES: Certainly we can, stamped by a registered professional engineer, and custom designed for your climactic loads – and for free. They come along with your investment in a new Hansen Pole Building complete kit package.

Pole Barn Prices

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I built a 40x60x14 pole barn, trusses 4’oc, cement floor with seal, foil bubble wrap outside all girts and purlins, vented soffits and continuous ridgevent. Trusses have 5psf bottom cord rating. I have read all the posts of yours I could. Would like to put in 24×40 apartment and was looking to put in BIBS insulation with horizontal bookcase framing but ran into a few questions. I’m concerned about drywall cracking/nail popping if I strap bottom truss cords and apply drywall to that. If I drop the ceiling, however, I’ll have to do vertical studs for the ceiling joists to sit on. I see a problem with fireblocking too. How best do you fireblock behind posts (between girts) with bookcased studs? Vertical studs would be even more difficult to fireblock, with 1.5 inch gaps everywhere. Last question is insulation…..With the impermeable foil bubble wrap up against the steel siding, I was going to use the mesh fabric and BIBS only before drywall. I’m concerned about a vapor barrier against drywall as this will primarily be used in summer with a/c on the interior and an outside humid climate. I appreciate any help and advice. MARCUS in ROANOKE

DEAR MARCUS: I appreciate you being a loyal reader!

You will want to place 2×4 ceiling joists on edge (two inch face towards the floor and sky) every 24 inches between the truss bottom chords, using Simpson 2×4 joist hangers on each end. With 5/8″ gypsum wallboard, screwed on per the manufacturer’s installation instructions, it is unlikely you will experience unusual drywall cracking or nail popping. Properly done, your bookcase studs (wall girts) should be supporting the siding on the outside and drywall on the inside. Installed this way, they effectively serve as fire blocking. In the event your building has “barn” style wall girts (flat on the outside face of the columns), use bookshelf girts of a large enough dimension to reach the siding, as well as extend to at least the inside face of the columns (e.g. 2×8 on a 6×6 column).

Commercial-Wall-Girts_EditedThere is going to be a challenge on the walls….your building should actually have building wrap on the outside of the framing to allow any water vapor in the wall cavity to escape to the outside world. The wall vapor barrier should be on the inside face of the wall girts to prevent moist air from inside of your apartment from entering the wall cavity. The reflective insulation in your walls should be either removed or at the very least punctured frequently, prior to wall insulation being installed.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am installing shutters on my home, which is a barn style home with metal siding.  My husband is very concerned about which type of screws to use to prevent leaking or rusting.  What do you suggest? AMELIA in HONEA PATH

DEAR AMELIA: Builders Edge Shutter-Lok patented fastening system makes installation fast and easy. Shutter-Lok holds in any material. Shutter-Lok features a durable copolymer construction with molded-through color so that there is no paint to ever scratch, flake, or fade. Installation requires drill with 1/4″ masonry bit.