Tag Archives: fascia trim

Calling for the Wall Steel Stretcher

Calling For The Wall Steel Stretcher

In our last episode, the dilemma of how to get a smooth roof plane was solved, to the apparent joy of all involved.

However up cropped a new challenge, contributed to by us however pretty much on the builder and this is why.

You may recall the eave height of the building was to be 16 foot and five inches.

Long time readers will recall eave height appears to be a challenge for some of the most experienced readers, so much so as it is indicated no less than five times on every set of Hansen Pole Buildings plans, as well as 51 times in the Hansen Pole Buildings Construction Manual.

For more insights into eave height please read: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/02/eave-height-2/.

Our aforementioned Building Wizard decided to ignore the eave height markings found on multiple pages of the engineer sealed plans, and perhaps didn’t open the cover of the Construction Manual. Instead, one of our draftspersons had errantly placed a dimension on the plans for a height to the bottom of an LVL across an overhead door opening – and instead of questioning why this one single dimension did not add up to the multitude of places on the plans which had the correct dimension, he proceeded to construct the building 3 and ½ inches TOO TALL!!

Then he wondered why it was the wall steel was going to be too short!

Well, in order to prevent a major panic and cost, we came up with a solution to increase the height of the fascia by the needed difference. Here is when I got to personally fall into the trap of blunder – as I drew the correct trim on the “fix” drawing and put an incorrect part number with it. This resulted in the wrong trims being delivered to the jobsite and sending the builder off to Rantville.

And the “soffit nailer”? On the plans it is only described as the distance it is located down from the eave height – which is now 3-1/2 inches higher than the plans show. No, the distance from grade did not change, however it did move this distance down from the eave height, in order to make all of the wall steel work.

The fascia trim issue was solved by the client having some custom trims made locally, in exchange for us providing three extra sheets of roof steel to make up for the ones the builder bungled.

In the end, client gets a beautiful new building, builder gets to maintain his ego trip and happiness is maintained in post frame building land.

All’s well that ends well.

One More Reason to Love DIYers

DIY – Do It Yourself.

Frankly, 99+ % of you DIYers are absolutely the greatest people on the planet. You are fun to work with, you follow directions and take pride in your own job very well done. I have serious man-crushes on many of you (I love you for your brains, not your bodies)!

Not everyone has the time or ability to do their own work. I totally “get it” as I hire work to be done for our household, as I just do not have the time to do it myself.

Here is a snippet of a recent interaction between myself and a client who has hired a builder. Builder might have missed some crucial parts of the Hansen Pole Buildings’ Construction Manual…..

“Hello Hansen Associates,

My builder is here working on the building and he tells me the L trim is short.

I am sending this email to let you know that the AL-2 , 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ L Trim order is short.  The take off list listed 6 -10′ 6″  which calculates to 63 feet.

However, the building is 34′ each side which I should have received at a minimum 68′.

enclosed overhangsThe building is 24 x 32 with 1 foot overhangs on the front, right side and rear wall, with a 4′ cantilever on the left sidewall.

Would you kindly send another piece of L trim in White ? Thank You for your assistance.”

I believe I was generally able to craft a fairly tactful response, as there really is no cause to get a client railing against a builder who may otherwise have been doing a wonderful job:

Dear Mr. Xxxxx;
If you could please have your builder confirm the trim has been used in the proper location. These trims are for the lower edge of the varge rafters. Therefore, it takes as much footage of them as you have roof steel.

2 ends X (13’8.5″ + 16’10.5″) = 61.12′ <= 63′ sent.

Our concern is perhaps the builder has inadvertently placed them somewhere we did not anticipate. Perhaps a photo or two showing where he has placed them would prove helpful.

Surprisingly enough, we received this response from our client:

You are correct the builder used the L trim as the starting strip for the roofing deck at the fascia, which he used to attach the inside closure strip under the roof panels.”

 Most interesting, there is nowhere in the 500 plus pages of the Hansen Pole Buildings installation instructions which would show this installation as done by the builder. In fact, as best as we can recall, this is the first time we have had a client (or their builder) make this error.

Fascia Challenges

If you are like me, you looked at this photo and the first thought was – the trim on the upper roof looks…..well frankly bad.

fascia trimsWell it is bad, and it is bad due to installation issues, which could easily have been avoided.

1. The first trick to getting a good looking fascia, is to pick straight boards. The Hansen Pole Buildings Installation Manual even encourages setting aside the straightest boards to use for fascia boards.

2. Make sure the fascia boards are installed straight (as in up and down straight), as well as in and out straight. It is all too easy for the heights of truss or rafter tails to be up or down by even fractions of an inch. Start getting one end up, next end down and repeat the process a few times (even if by only 1/8th of an inch) and things can get messy. Ideally, attach the fascia boards to the truss or rafter tails by use of a tight stringline.

3. Fascia trims are best installed when they are warm, as installing them when cold can lead to oil canning on very hot days. (Oil canning is when a flat sheet of steel gets ripples in it.) A 10 foot long piece of steel trim will change in length by 0.120” in a 150 degree F. temperature swing. Although this is small, it does exist and should be taken into account.

4. Fascia trims are designed to abut each other, not overlap. Behind each joint, place a bead of caulking (color matched caulking is available), so as to insure a weather tight joint.

5. Install fascia trims to a stringline across the bottom edge, any ups and downs between the top of the fascia board and the roof steel will be hidden by the shadow of the roofing. Fasteners should be placed within a few inches of each end of the piece of trim and approximately every three feet along the length. If fastening upwards into the bottom of the fascia board, drive fasteners only in far enough to align the trim with the stringline. Any screws installed through the wide face of the fascia trim should be in a straight line and close to the top edge of the trim. Do not over-tighten screws. They are best left slightly on the loose side to prevent puckers.

With a little patience, fascia trims can not only be straight and stay straight, but most important of all – look straight on hot or cold days!

Dear Pole Barn Guru: Why Do I Need Truss Web Bracing?

Welcome to Ask the Pole Barn Guru – where you can ask questions about building topics, with answers posted on Mondays.  With many questions to answer, please be patient to watch for yours to come up on a future Monday segment.  If you want a quick answer, please be sure to answer with a “reply-able” email address.

Email all questions to: PoleBarnGuru@HansenPoleBuildings.com


I came across the link below while investigating Pole Barn House kits, but since we don’t want a concrete slab, I was wondering about how the poles work in conjunction with a crawl space.



DEAR GNASHING: The easiest (and most affordable) way to create a crawl space is to construct in typical pole building style, with an elevated wood floor.  This now creates a crawl space which can either have an insulated perimeter, or the floor may be insulated leaving an unconditioned area.  A far more expensive route would be to pour a continuous footing and foundation, mounting the columns to poured-in-place brackets on top of the foundation walls.  We’ve done them both ways, so it’s client’s preference.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’ve hired a contractor to assemble a Hansen Pole Building kit package for me. He says he is short on trims to cover the fascias. As he was explaining to me, is that the triangle cut part of the end needs to be covered by the ‘L’ trim. Does that make sense? It does to me looking at it, but hard to write out! WRUNG OUT IN WASHINGTON

DEAR WRUNG: Your building requires 30’3” of trim to cover each fascia, when installed to match the instructions provided in our Construction Guide. A total of 63 feet was shipped to your building site, so there was plenty provided.

It appears, what has happened, is your installers have made an assumption of how to correctly apply the trims, rather than having thoroughly reviewed the directions provided. Failure to follow the step-by-step detailed instructions does occur every once in a while. Hopefully your project is not past the point of no return (where trim was improperly used).

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is the purpose of bracing the webs of roof trusses? Why do some webs need braces while others don’t? MYSTIFIED IN MISSISSIPPI
DEAR MYSTIFIED: The internal members of roof trusses are referred to as webs. The permanent braces sometimes required on roof truss webs are called continuous lateral braces, or CLBs. They’re typically required on a web which is in compression. The truss web bracing is intended to keep the truss web from buckling in the weak (skinny) direction.

To explain why they’re sometimes necessary, imagine pushing down on a yardstick which extends vertically to the floor from the palm of your hand. It doesn’t take much pressure for the yardstick to buckle.

Now imagine taking your other hand and restraining the yardstick halfway up from the floor. If you press down now, it takes a lot more pressure to make the yardstick buckle. In effect, you’ve added a CLB to the yardstick.

The web of a truss is much like a yardstick. It can withstand a certain amount of compression without bracing. The amount of compression a web can withstand depends partly on its size, species, and grade. But the biggest factor in determining truss web bracing requirements is the overall length of the web.

In some cases, webs can require two rows of bracing rather than one. This design is most often seen in very tall trusses.

Single trusses are only 1-1/2 inches wide and require far more web bracing than does a double truss system, where the two individual trusses are nailed directly together so as to form a three inch width member. Doubling the thickness makes the webs twice as stiff against buckling.

If one CLB is required on a web, it should be roughly in the center of the web. If two CLBs are called for, they should be at one-third points on the web.

Continuous lateral bracing won’t do any good if it’s not anchored to something solid. The CLB will just transfer the buckling, and the whole set of webs will buckle in the same direction. Typically, CLBs are anchored with diagonal braces to rigid points such as the top chords of trusses, or to a building endwall.

In pole buildings, it is not uncommon to have trusses spaced eight feet or more apart. CLBs begin to become impractical, as they eventually become so long they will buckle between the trusses. In no case should a single 2x (1-1/2 inch wide) CLB used with a length over 10’.

So how to apply truss web bracing of widely spaced trusses? By applying a 1×4 or larger brace to the top or bottom (if two CLBs are required, to both top and bottom) of the web needing to be braced, for at least 90% of the length! These braces act as a strongback, restraining the web from buckling in the weak direction. The braces should be attached with 10d common nails, placed at a spacing as recommended by the RDP (Registered Design Professional – engineer or architect) for the project.

To determine if you need CLBs, look at the drawings accompanying the trusses; they should have the locations of any CLBs on them. Many truss manufacturers also put tags on webs which require braces. For more information on trusses, visit the Wood Truss Council of America’s Web site at: www.sbcindustry.com