Tag Archives: corner trims

Corner Trim, Metal Roof Install Issue, and Insulation Solutions

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about what trim to use on building corners, an issue of installing metal to roof that is extremely out of square, and best options to insulate a building.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good afternoon! Looking to see what trim to use on the corners? https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/10/horizon-steel-siding/  Sincerely, KYLEIGH

DEAR KYLEIGH: Order standard Corner Trims and place pre-formed foam Outside Closure strips between horizontal steel siding and trims.


DEAR POLE BARN GURU: How much more difficult would it be to put the metal roof on if you can’t square the roof trusses. Because the posts were not cemented in properly. We are 8′ out of square on a 24’x50′. Would it be possible to square being that far out? TOM in BLOOMSBURG

DEAR TOM: I want my roof planes to be square within 1/8th inch before attempting to run steel. At 8′ out of square, I would have pulled out all offending posts and started over again. What you have will be impossible to properly roof and would require cutting every sheet of steel at eaves to even get a straight overhang line.


DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Just finished 40x60x16 pole barn and am looking to insulate. Building wrap was installed on exterior walls and roof has double bubble. Wondering how to manage moisture inside the building. Slab is insulated under as well as a vapor barrier. Interior walls and ceiling will be finished with steel liner panel. I’d like to spray foam entire building with open cell spray foam walls and roof deck. Would I need to install a vapor barrier between foam and steel liner panels? Building has attic trusses and the room will also be conditioned separately from garage space. Thanks KYLE in COXSACKIE

DEAR KYLE: I would not spray foam to building wrap, as it causes more problems than it solves. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/04/spray-foam-insulation-3/
For walls, I would use unfaced rock wool batts, with a well-sealed interior vapor barrier. You do not need a vapor barrier between ceiling liner panels and attic spray foam. Personally, I would blow in fiberglass above ceiling liner panels and ventilate the dead attic space.

It might be necessary to mechanically dehumidify your building.

Closing Top of Corner Trims Revisited

Recently I had posted an article on closing tops of corner trims (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/10/closing-top-of-corner-trims/).

Reader MATT in CINCINNATI has opted to go with a light gauge steel framed building, rather than a post frame building, however he had questioned my original article:

“Thanks for all of your informative posts, they have been quite useful in my journey toward my dream barn/house. I am finalizing design of a beautiful K Building. Hard to argue with a full perimeter footer and steel truss frames. My barn will have a porch similar to the attached picture. I am hoping you might revisit your post on “Closing Top of Corner Trims”. I agree in regards to the picture in your original post that spray foam would work when tucked up under the soffit with minimal weather exposure. However, in the attached image, with the top edge of the lower corner trim exposed directly to the weather, it seems much more important to get it sealed. Perhaps slitting into the endwall siding and extending the J trim from the porch past the corner trim would provide a better solution? Either way it seems copious amounts of caulk are in order.”

In an ideal world you could use a combination of #2 (the Emseal expanding closure) and #3 folding down the top of the corner trim. The Emseal by itself will provide a watertight seal. I always try to avoid cutting into the siding as much as possible.

I do have a concern about your K Building’s 2×6 #1 Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) roof purlins, spanning 15 feet.

20 psf * 24″ on center * 15′ span ^2 / 8 * 7.5625 (section modulus of a 2×6) * 1.15 (Cr for repetitive members) * 1.15 (Duration of Load) * 1350 (Fb for 2×6 #1 SYP) = 1

20 psf is the minimum design live/snow roof load by Code, however there is no allowance for dead loads (weight of roofing, weight of the purlin itself, etc.). I would recommend using 2×8 purlins.