This week the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about the value of Perma-Columns, setting of posts, trusses and purlins, and the proper way to vent a mono-truss lean-to roof.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Are perma columns worth it? JOHN in TRUMANSBURG
DEAR JOHN: When I built my own 8000 square foot finished post-frame barndominium, I could have used any option for columns – mine are directly embedded UC-4B treated glulams. Although this article is over seven years old, it is still relevant to your question: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/04/perma-column-price-advantage/
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m planning a pole barn pavilion, and would like to have posts set at 10′ on center, and trusses at 5′ on center. Are 2×4 purlins laid flat sufficient (24″ spacing)? Or should they be on edge or upped to 2×6? Standard gable truss, 4/12 slope and 29 gauge metal. Thank you in advance for insight. BRETT in JOHNSON CITY
DEAR BRETT: In my humble opinion, you are looking at doing it in a much more difficult fashion than needed. Set glulaminated columns every 10′ (you could easily do wider spacing to reduce number of holes to dig, columns to set, etc). Align prefabricated wood trusses to match columns – single on each end, two-ply on interiors, with trusses notched into columns. This will eliminate need for truss carriers and greatly minimizes amount of truss bracing required (and usually reduces truss costs). Truss carriers are often under designed and rarely adequately connected to properly resist gravitational and wind uplift loads. Use 2×6 2400f MSR (Machine Stress Rated) purlins, joist hung on edge between trusses.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello, thank you for educating us on best practices. What is the proper way to vent a mono truss lean-on roof? Overhangs will have vented soffit and the rake is currently planned for unvented soffit. I am thinking of installing vented soffit in upper part of rake where the mono truss meets the side wall of the higher structure wall. I have enclosed a picture for reference. TIA NIKO
DEAR NIKO: Thank you for your kind words. Here is a sketch for you (rafter/truss being interchangeable):
Roof steel needs to be long enough to make it to high side of vented closures. You do not want to place vented soffit in rakes.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello, I am building a pole barn for cattle in the north TX area ( primarily clay soil). I have augured my post holes and took a lot of time making sure I set the post square and plum. Unfortunately before the concrete truck couldn’t get to me the rain started and dint not stop. All of my post holes stayed full of water for about 1.5 weeks…. Since then I have pumped them out and we have had 2 weeks of high 90 degree days with full sun but the bottom of the holes are still muddy. My plan has been to let them dry out but I wonder if I need to pull the post, possibly auger out the mud and repack them. This option of starting all over gives me heart burn!!! My concern is that my post will sink and settle when I add the weight of concrete and all of the other building materials. I know you probably can’t say definitively but if you were in my shoes would you start all over or do you think it would be ok to just let them dry out and move on? Not sure if it matters but the post holes are 16″ in diameter and 52″ deep. Thanks for any advice! ANTHONY in SHERMAN 
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you provide quotes for a Maintenance Garage in Salem, Missouri? DANIEL in ST. LOUIS 
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: My GF lives in In Indonesia and as you know, they are moving the Capitol. Because of rising water levels. I saw some rubber ” boots” that are supposed to protect against rot from water. They also sell concrete for building a ” pier”. Any advice? She has family there and does not want to leave. MATHEW in RENO 
