Tag Archives: fly rafters

How to Frame a Reverse Gable Porch

How to Frame a Reverse Gable Porch

Reverse gable porches are an excellent way to protect any door from effects of weather – specifically rain and snow. I personally feel they are an underutilized great feature.

For more reading about reverse gable porches: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/07/reverse-gable-porch/.

Today’s article has been sparked by reader DARRELL in ATLANTA who writes:

“How to frame a reverse gable over a door on an existing pole barn. Thank you.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru responds:

Ultimately this will be a question you will need to have answered by a RDP (Registered Design Professional – architect or engineer) who provided sealed plans for your original structure, as they will have to verify ability of existing structure to support loads imposed by this reverse gable porch.

Most reverse gable porches are attached to a wall below the existing roofline. Structural design of new roof system will need to be able to accommodate weight of snow drifting against existing wall or sliding off from roof (depending upon whether reverse gable will be added to endwall or sidewall).

Siding will need to be removed from existing wall in area of reverse gable. A truss will need to be placed against this wall – usually it will be easiest for span of truss (and width of reverse gable) to be from one existing roof supporting column to another. If reverse gable will have overhangs, then this truss against existing wall needs tails 1-1/2 inches longer (measured horizontally) than  width of overhang, in order to attach fascia boards. 2×4 (wide face to wind) siding backing needs to be added to this wall, approximately two inches above truss and following same pitch.

Your RDP can specify connection of truss to existing columns. It may be necessary to add a bearing block below the truss heels, in order to adequately support roof loads.

Two new columns will support new gable parallel to the wall including your door. For sake of preventing things from running into them, they should be no smaller than 6×6, and be fully concreted into the ground. A single truss will be notched into face of these columns 1-1/2″ opposite from existing main wall. If reverse gable has no overhang, neither will this truss. If endwall overhangs, this end truss attachment will be lowered (in comparison to main wall truss) by thickness of purlins, adjusted for roof slope. A 2×4 siding backing should be nailed to face of both top and bottom chords of this truss.

Depending upon span between these two trusses and roof loads 2×4, 2×6 or even larger purlins should be placed edgewise. They will butt into the side of truss against existing building and be attached with hangers. If no endwall overhang, attachment to opposite truss will be the same. If an endwall overhang will be included, then purlins run over second truss and are attached to top of it with Simpson H1 brackets. With an endwall overhang, solid 2x blocking will be placed between purlins, to prevent rotation. Solid blocking should be held 3/4″ out past 2×4 siding backing. With enclosed overhangs, soffit will attach to this solid blocking. With open overhangs, endwall J Channel will butt up against blocking.

Fascia boards and fly rafters of same dimension as purlins will need to be installed, if there are overhangs.



Widow’s Peak Construction in 9 Easy Steps

What distinguishing physical feature do Leonardo DiCaprio, John Travolta, Marilyn Monroe, Elvis and Ronald Reagan all share?

I said, “physical feature” so all of them having been movie stars is not the answer we were looking for.

They all have widow’s peaks!

The expression widow’s peak dates from 1849, and the term stems from the belief hair growing to a point on the forehead is suggestive of the peak of a widow’s hood and is an omen of early widowhood.

When it comes to barns, the widow’s peak is the pointed overhang on the front of a barn roof. Originally it was provided with a pulley wheel underneath, for hauling up hay. Most modern widow’s peaks are to provide shelter for a loft door or to add rustic charm.

Having a widow’s peak on your new post frame (pole) building is both fairly simple and affordably done when it comes to planning for it in advance. I happen to have one on the building I live in on a daily basis.

Having provided a significant number of them over the years and actually never having had to supply any special instruction for their installation, I was surprised recently when a professional builder was stymied on what to do with the one on the gambrel roof barn he was assembling.

They had the framing part successfully completed, so I wrote out the instructions and forwarded them via email.

For those of you who are considering a widow’s peak on your new pole building, here are the steps to successful steel roofing and trimming – to provide an idea as to whether you could do it yourself.

Step 1. Cut roof steel at widow’s peak to match outside edges of varge rafters (also known as fly rafters).

Step 2. Place widow’s peak rake trims over top of roof steel, with the flat edge on top of the roof. These rake trims are similar to standard rake and corner trims on one side and the opposite edge is flat with a hem.

Step 3. Lightly place a mark (felt tipped pen works great) on top of roof steel at edge of the flat face of the widow’s peak rake trims.

Step 4. Cut and install rake trim on standard overhanging (or no overhang) portion of roof – high end on “face” (street view) should extend until it hits widow’s peak varge rafter.

Step 5. Run roof side of standard rake trims long by a couple of inches on the uphill (towards peak) end.

Step 6. Cut widow’s peak rake trim to overlap the previously installed standard rake trim, but do not install yet.

Step 7. Take expandable closure strip (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/03/emseal-self-expanding-sealant-tape-closures/) and place on widow’s peak side of previously drawn line (normally hold it about 1/4″ to 1/2″ away from line, just keep it straight).

Step 8. Install widow’s peak trim, using stitch screws through expanding closure into tops of every rib it crosses.

Step 9. Stand back and admire your handiwork!

Some of you fare readers may be aghast – as I have shared, ‘super secret’ information with builders and competitors. Do not fret, it is all for the betterment of our industry. Better pole buildings, make for more a demand for better pole buildings!