Tag Archives: wall steel

Where to Stop Metal, Installing a Sliding Door, and Footings

This week’s Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about where to stop metal in relation to concrete, installing a sliding door to a repurposed building, and the proper depth of footings.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Where do I stop my metal in relation to my grade board/ bottom stringer. I’ve set the bottom of my lowest stringer to be the top of my concrete. Does the dirt on the outside end at the bottom of said stringer because I would think moisture would penetrate. Thanks for your time and I enjoy your information. SAM in LANCASTER

DEAR SAM: Bottom of your pressure treated splash plank (lowest stringer) should be 3-1/2″ below top of your concrete slab.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m putting up a pole barn on the cheap with mostly repurposed materials. I’ve searched the interweb and find no instructions on sliding door track installation. I’m ready to start putting up the siding-do I need to prep/install the track/flashing/guides/stops etc. now or can I side the structure and do all this later? I have yet to buy any track/rollers/hardware, the doors will be 18′ tall and 10′ wide (high clearance for a stack wagon). Any help/guidance/direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, DAVE in ELIZABETH

Figure 27-5

DEAR DAVE: You will want to invest in your track and hardware so you have installation instructions including height of track board. Please do not try to wood frame door itself, invest in a steel frame – it will be far lighter in weight and will not warp and twist like a wood frame will.

Normally you will have a 2×6 #2 track board mounted on sliding door header face across your door opening and in adjacent area door will slide over. Top of track board is usually 10″ taller (above bottom of pressure treated splash plank) than door height. Before you run any siding install header, track boards and jambs. Install 1-1/2″ x 5-1/2″ L trim to cover track board. Hang track and track cover trim. Install J Channel horizontally on solid wall below track board and vertically on solid wall side of each door jamb.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello I called the number on your website and I was asked to send this question to this email address:

I’m considering building a pole barn however am concerned because about 30% of the vertical posts would be on a rock ledge at an elevation above the frost line.

I see the section on your website ‘sturdy wall plus concrete brackets’ not sure if that would apply here and/or what type of bracket or detail could be used in the situation?

Thank you! MARK in WEST MILLFORD

 

DEAR MARK: Building Codes require footings to extend to either below frost line or to solid bedrock. Our third party engineers have worked with similar situations previously and usually come up with a design solution involving “pinning” columns to underlying rock.  We would supply you with a column layout and have you indicate how deep you can get at each column location. A steel concrete stake and a sledge hammer are perfect for being able to do this in advance of your plans being completed.

 

 

Building Permits, Building Changes, and Frost Protection

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers questions about ability to “build … without any problems…” permitting, adding wall skirting to an open building, and appropriate frost protection.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can I build my pole barn in Hernando County without any problems from the county for permitting which is located in Brooksville, Florida? CHARLES in BROOKSVILLE

DEAR CHARLES: Maybe – you need to be discussing with your county’s Planning Department at (352)754-4057. It will depend upon zoning of your property, restrictions and lot size.

This will help you along: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2013/01/planning-department-3/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Bought a home with existing pole barn and need to find a local contractor to skirt it. How do I find someone to do underpinning? JANE in HIXSON

Roof Only Riding ArenaDEAR JANE: Before making changes to your building, such as this, it would behoove you to consult with engineer who originally designed. If they are unknown or unavailable, you should consult with an engineer who can evaluate what you have and what you want done, in order to determine if structural upgrades will be necessary. Many pole barns with little or no sides were not originally designed to support this added wind load, and it is best to be safe, rather than sorry.

Once you have engineer approval, check to see if a Building Permit is required.

Only then could you go to your local Craigslist and post what you want done under “Gigs”. Be fairly specific and you should receive several qualified responses.

 

slab edge insulationDEAR POLE BARN GURU: We plan on installing a cement slab floor inside our pole building for our farm shop. We were planning to install hard board insulation 2 ft deep 2 inches thick around the perimeter of the building. But we have a footing and wall of 42 inches underneath insulated garage doors. Do we need to have insulation on the outside of the walls below grade to keep frost from migrating inside under the floor? We have a 48 ft door, plus a 24 and a 16 ft door on this building. We will drive trucks or combines inside this building. We are doing this project right now…we have finished first wall. Thank you for your help. ED in FREELAND

DEAR ED: Yes, you should be placing insulation outside of your building walls, below grade, to prevent frost from migrating under your concrete floor. Please read this article for more information: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/11/frost-protected-shallow-foundations/