Tag Archives: 10d nails

Are Externally Mounted (Barn style) Wall Girts Stronger?

Are Externally Mounted (Barn style) Wall Girts Stronger?

Reader and prospective client DON in GARDNERVILLE writes:

“My cat got on my keyboard and sent my mail before I was finished. As I was saying I have been working with Tyson and I have some questions:

 When I was on your website I watched a video that showed your wall girts with a guy standing on them in the vertical position and he stated this is why you should buy a Hansen building because we design them for more strength, but when I was talking with Tyson he said they were bookshelf, My experience as a retired general contractor says that a 2 x 6 laying on its side 10 feet long will sag in the middle, if I am screwing the metal to the sides it will not be a straight line?

 He put 6000 10D nails in my quote, from looking at the drawings on the website I do not see where I would use 10D nails? All the material is 2 x material and a 10D is not long enough to hold a 2 x material. If they are for the hangers for the roof purlins or truss bracing, that is still not the proper nail for 2 x material it requires a cement coated truss nail 1 1/4″ lg x 11 gauge truss nail. So I am confused what they would be for?

 Is there a list of materials that come with each load? My reason for asking this is when the poles are placed they need 2-2 x 4 each to hold them in place while the concrete is placed where is this material or am I supposed to buy it separate?

 Thank you.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:

Thank you for reaching out.

I am unaware of any video on our website showing externally mounted (wide face to wind) wall girts as being stronger. Bookshelf style girts are far stronger against wind loads. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/03/girts/

From Chapter 19 of our Construction Manual: “Between initial installation time and wall sheeting bookshelf girts may sag or droop. Relax, bookshelf girts can be easily pushed up or down by hand, to straight, as siding is applied. Once installed, siding is strong enough to hold bookshelf girts permanently in place.” When wall steel panels are properly pre-drilled (as advised in our Construction Manual) it provides for perfectly straight screw lines.

10d common nails are 3″ long x .0148 diameter and are perfect for nailing two 2x members together without blowing through. Our engineers specify these for joist hangers where the nail is going into two 2x members (such as hangers to double trusses). For joist hangers to single 2x members, call out is for 1-1/2″ x .0148 HDG nails. This nailing meets or exceeds Simpson requirements for hangers.

You will receive a comprehensive Materials List in your online login. Each delivery to your site will also come with its own packing list of materials. Columns and lumber packages are nearly always delivered at same time, providing a plethora of materials for temporary bracing of columns.

Installing Joist Hangers

Installing Joist Hangers on Opposite Sides of a Double Truss

My friend and loyal reader LONNIE in COLORADO SPRINGS is one Hansen Pole Buildings’ client who truly puts thought into the assembly of his new post frame building.

Lonnie writes:

“I’ve been pondering and pondering this and I may have a solution that I want to run by you. I’m considering buying a Bostitch F21PL framing nailer to use on the project and mainly because it includes a metal connector tip that will allow it to drive the 3” nails through the hangers for the purlins. What I was thinking of doing is to frame each truss bay using 2@ 1 1/2” 10d nails (always making sure to use the same 2 holes for each hanger… i.e. upper left and lower right) to build each bay on the ground. After raising the truss bays, go back and attach the double trusses together and at the same time finish the hangers with two 3” 10d nails in the empty hanger holes. The only concern I had was that the 3” nails would be driven opposing the 1.5” nails on the opposite truss hanger. However, since the nails would be driven point to point I think the odds of the 3” driving the opposing 1.5” out would be very slim. 

Do you think that mix of 1.5” and 3” nails for the connectors would be sufficient or should I really consider just temporarily attach the hangers and replace the temporary attachment with the 3” nails? If that is the case, is there an issue driving 3” nails basically tip to tip through the hangers?

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:

Your mix of nails will be more than adequate, as the load carrying capacity of the hanger is greater than the ability of the roof purlin to carry a load. In simple terms – the hanger and its fasteners are not the weak link in the system. Also – if you take two hangers and place them back to back, you will notice the holes do not all line up – whether the variability is accidental or purposeful, I do not know, however it further reduces the probability of nails from opposite directions exactly hitting each other tip-to-tip.

A caution – situations involving a differentiation from what is shown on the actual engineer sealed plans should always be verified for structural adequacy prior to implementation.


Construction Tape, Instead of Nails to Build Pole Buildings

Building TapeI’m always on board (pun intended) for new, interesting and different ideas. This one certainly qualifies!

German researchers are working on a quick-setting construction tape which can bond lumber members together. They’ve developed an adhesive tape, which sets in under a minute to reliably and durably bond together individual components.

The construction tape doesn’t dry out, so it can be applied to one member, and does not have to be immediately sealed to other pieces.

The entire process is possible because the adhesive material actually envelops a metal strip which serves as a heating system. When the construction tape is stuck onto a piece of wood, the part contacting the wood warms, allowing it to seep into the wood grains. It then cools, creating a bond. Stick another piece of wood on the other side of the tape, the same process is repeated, and the two pieces are sealed together.

While the process currently takes about a minute, the aim is to speed it up.

Researchers feel they have found the perfect adhesive, but they still are working on finding the ideal metal for the heating strip. Besides brass, scientists are also testing stainless steel and aluminum.

“As the adhesive tape is designed to be used primarily for load-bearing bonding in buildings, it has to possess structural strength and durable adhesive qualities,” says Dr. Andreas Zillessen of WKI (Wilhelm-Klauditz-Institut).

The time frame for real life testing of the product is about six months away.

Imagine – instead of whacking my thumb with a framing hammer, I will now be able to permanently tape my hands together!