Tag Archives: overhead sectional door

Overhead Garage Doors, Galvanized Nails, and Installing a Ceiling Liner

Today’s Pole Barn Guru answers questions about the sale of overhead garage doors, the use of galvanized nails, and if Hansen could install a ceiling liner.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you sell overhead style panel doors for pole barns?  I am located in FL and need a 14’x14’ barn door (possibly up to 6 total) for my large pole barn.   Do you know what wind requirements are typically used?  I realize Florida has a 160Mph wind rating due to hurricanes, but I am not sure if I am required to meet this requirement since this is a 25 year old pole barn  I am trying to renovate (& modernize) the look, but paying $4k per door would break the bank.
Any suggestions you have are greatly appreciated.

DEAR DONALD: Hansen Pole Buildings provides overhead sectional steel doors only with an investment into a complete post frame building package, due to possibilities of shipping damage. You should consult with your local Building Department, as you may very well need a Building Permit in order to do work such as this. They can verify what wind speed (as well as wind exposure) will be appropriate for your particular building site. Even if a permit is not required, you should only use doors rated to at least these loads – lesser capacity doors may very well not perform as needed and indeed could result in a collapse.


DEAR POLE BARN GURU: After scouring the internet I am still confused about using non-galvanized steel nails in the MCA pt treated posts for nailing the girts. I thank you for your time and expertise. FRED in BYRDSTOWN

DEAR FRED: Regardless of whether lumber is pressure preservative treated or not, I have always used hot dipped galvanized nails – why? Because chances are good it will rain (or snow) during framing and non-galvanized nails will rust and leave discolored streaks on your framing. Considering there is such a small price difference, it is worth it to me.


Interior Liner SteelDEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello! We live in Prior Lake and have a pole shed that needs a ceiling metal liner Installed. I’m having trouble finding anyone to do just the liner and I can finish the rest. I know you’re a few hours away but curious if you have anyone near the cities that could help. The building is a 32×32 with a 12′ ceiling made by Sherman 5 years ago. It has three overhead garage doors.


DEAR DEXTER: Thank you very much for considering Hansen Pole Buildings, unfortunately we are not building contractors, so this is outside of our scope. You might try running an ad in Craigslist under gigs or, as an alternative, check at your local The Home Depot’s Pro Desk as they often have lists of contractors who might be capable of doing your work.


Minimum Headroom for Overhead Doors

Mike address “headroom” needs for overhead garage doors.

Reader JEFF in ROSEBURG writes: “If my roll up door opening is less than 2′ from wall height, 18″ is what I have, is there a roll up door that would work? Or is 2′ below wall height the absolute minimum?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:
Most folks use the term “roll up” door when describing overhead sectional doors. As there are very few instances where I would recommend the use of an actual roll up (coil) door, I will tailor my answers with the thought your door is actually going to be an overhead sectional door.

The real issue at hand is the amount of net clear area between the top of the concrete slab floor and the underside of the roof trusses (or roof trusses and ceiling finish if a ceiling is installed). The remaining area needs to be able to accommodate the overhead door tracks and (in most cases) allow for an electric garage door opener to be installed.

In your neck of the woods (Oregon), the vast majority of post frame (pole) buildings are constructed with a single truss mounted on each side of a sidewall column, with purlins (usually 2×6) run over the top of the trusses. With a 2×6 top chord roof truss and a fairly common 4/12 roof slope, the combination of the trusses and purlins is going to chew up 11-7/8” of space. A nominal four inch thick concrete slab is another 3-1/2” thick. After these two deductions, your 18 inches of distance from top of door opening to eave ends up being all of 2-5/8”clear.
Chances are you are in trouble and will have to reduce the height of your overhead door opening – unless…..
The door opening is in an endwall, the distance from the endwall to the first truss supporting column is three feet or more from the endwall, and the opening is far enough from a corner to avoid the door tracks from hitting the roof purlins.

Here is an example – First truss bearing columns at 12 feet from endwall, 10 foot eave height, nine foot tall overhead door (top of opening should be 9’2-1/2” above grade with a residential overhead door). This leaves all of 9-1/2” between top of door opening and eave height, however you also gain height due to the slope of the roof (less the thickness of the roof purlins). With a 4/12 roof slope and 2×6 purlins, at four feet in from the corner you now have nearly 20” of headroom! In this example it does preclude the ability to have a ceiling.
Your door opening is in a sidewall and the tracks can fit between the trusses. An example would be placing a 10’ wide overhead door centered in a 12 foot bay. Again, this only works without a ceiling.

Building height is relatively inexpensive, yet I repeatedly see cases of people trying to fit overhead doors which are too tall into buildings with eave heights which are too short. Plan in advance and just increase the eave height!