Tag Archives: pole building occupancy

Overhead Door Trim

Welcome to Ask the Pole Barn Guru – where you can ask questions about building topics, with answers posted on Mondays.  With many questions to answer, please be patient to watch for yours to come up on a future Monday segment.  If you want a quick answer, please be sure to answer with a “reply-able” email address.

Email all questions to: PoleBarnGuru@HansenPoleBuildings.com

DEAR POLE BARN: I am working on insulating and installing a tin liner in my pole barn. My question is about my overhead doors and how to add overhead door trim on the door frames behind the metal door track. I was thinking of slipping 6″ fascia trim behind the door track and then reinstalling the lag bolts for the tracks. I would like your opinion on how you would apply overhead door trim so there is no wood exposed. DAVE IN ALBANY, IL

DEAR DAVE: In most instances, we see folks put J Channel around the perimeter of the overhead door brackets, which (as you mention) would leave wood exposed. Your idea of using fascia trim (a 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” L trim) would probably work well.

Mike the Pole Barn Guru

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: With the 29 gauge painted roof is there OSB or plywood to go under it or is it just fastened directly to roof truss? LEROY IN ERIE

DEAR LEROY: Most 29 gauge ribbed steel roofing panels can be applied directly to the roof purlins (framing which runs perpendicular to the roof trusses). Your RDP (Registered Design Professional – engineer or architect) can confirm as to whether a particular product will be adequate to withstand the applied climactic conditions (snow or wind) without the need for sheathing.

Mike the Pole Barn Guru

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good Afternoon, I am curious if your buildings are ok to be built into a hill?  I have a hill in my back yard that part of the back and 2 sides would be built into to get the size unit that I would like to put up.  Are your sides ok to have the dirt filled back in onto or would I have to keep it away with a retaining wall?  Or can the materials be cut to sit on top of a block wall which can have the dirt filled back to?  Thank you for any information you can provide. RONALD IN WHITEHALL

DEAR RONALD: Pole (post frame) buildings are not designed to support the weight of dirt backfilled against them, however they can easily be mounted to the top of a foundation wall – either poured concrete or block – with the materials cut to fit the wall.

Mike the Pole Barn Guru

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m doing a build out for client who has pole barn 55×30 we are building 20 x30 2 bed, small family room, bath and kitchen. No vapor barrier….client is worried about mold. So my question is do I put up Tyvek on the inside before I put up interior walls? I’m installing drywall 1/2 off floor. Help is appreciated. LARRY IN LEMONT

DEAR LARRY: I’d caution you to make sure the building itself was originally designed as a Risk Category II structure, as many post frame buildings (pole barns) are not designed for residential occupancies. If the engineered building plans show Risk Category I, are not engineered, or can’t be found, a RDP (Registered Design Professional – engineer or architect) should be engaged to determine the structural adequacy of the as built structure and specify corrections which will need to be made in order to assure the integrity of the building, as well as the safety of the occupants.

Also – many jurisdictions require approval for Occupancy changes by the Planning Department as well as a structural permit from the Building Department. Don’t get on the wrong side of either of these – it is far better in this case, to ask for approval, rather than plead for mercy later.

Provided your client has screwed on steel for siding, remove the panels and install Tyvek between the siding and the sidewall framing. Tyvek is a building wrap and is designed so, when properly installed, water vapor can escape the wall.

My first choice for wall insulation is BIBs (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2011/11/bibs/) with unfaced batt insulation as the second pick.

With either of these – a vapor barrier such as six ml clear visqueen (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/blog/2013/07/moisture-barrier/) should be placed on the inside of the insulation, prior to gypsum wallboard installation.

There will be a plethora of different answers for any ceiling, and to give best recommendations would require knowledge of how the existing building is constructed – as well as the “vision” your client has for how this space should look and perform when completed.

Mike the Pole Barn Guru