Home >> glulam columns

Tag Archives: glulam columns

NEW Hansen Pole Building Roof Supporting COLUMNS

NEW Hansen Pole Building Roof Supporting COLUMNS

Since Hansen Pole Buildings’ inception we have primarily provided solid-sawn timbers for roof supporting columns. Due to cost and availability challenges, we have only included true glu-laminated columns, when required by structural necessity or as a request from our clients.

Now solid-sawn columns have not come without their own set of challenges.

Pressure treatment: go visit your local big box store or lumber dealer and take a gander at treatment tags on their 6x6s. In order to be used structurally in ground, Building Codes require them to be UC-4B rated. In most instances, what is ‘on hand’ is only UC-4A and has 1/3rd less treatment chemical retention than what is mandated by Code. Usually UC-4B has to be special ordered (along with ‘special’ higher pricing) and results in lengthy delays. Cut off an end of a pressure treated 6×6 and not treatment chemicals do not penetrate completely. In an ideal dream world, where lumber does not check or split, this would not be an issue – however we do not live in such a world.

Strength: bending strength is a product of Sm (Section modulus – depth squared x width divided by six) multiplied by Fb (Fiberstress in bending). Sm for a 6×6 is 5.5 x 5.5 x 5.5 / 6 = 27.729. Fb for #2 SYP (Southern Pine) posts and timbers is 850, while #2 Hem-Fir (found in Western states) is 575 x 0.8 (this is Ci, incising factor read more here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/08/incising/) = 460.

27.729 x 850 = 23,570, while 27.729 x 460 = 12,755. More about this later in this article.

Weight: Pressure preservative treated timbers are not kiln dried after treatment. They have been thoroughly saturated with water borne chemicals. It is not unusual for a pressure treated 6×6 to weight 15 pounds per lineal foot (making a 20 foot long timber 300 pounds)!

Dimensional stability: as these timbers naturally dry, they tend to do things like warp, twist and split. None of these make for an ideal end use product.

What about glu-laminated columns?

Pressure treatment – each individual 2x member (or ply) is treated completely through. As SYP is being treated, wood does not have to be incised. All treatment meets UC-4B requirements and kiln drying after treatment makes each member capable of being FDN (Permanent Wood Foundation) rated.

Strength – most glu-laminated column producers have 3ply 2×6 columns rated at a Fb of 1900. Hansen Pole Buildings felt, if we were going to provide all glu-laminated roof supporting columns to our clients, we wanted to offer absolutely strongest columns, without question. We negotiated n exclusive contract with Richland Laminated Columns, LLC of Greenwich, Ohio, to produce our columns from ultra high-strength MSR (Machine Stress Rated read more here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/12/machine-graded-lumber/) lumber. This results in an end product with a Fb value of 3000 or 157% stronger in bending than what is typically found elsewhere!

Because finished dimensions are after planing, our 3 ply glu-lams have a Sm of 18.058. Take this value times 3000 = 54,173 or 229% greater in bending strength than a 6×6 #2 SYP and 424% greater than #2 Hem-Fir. Rather than having to use 6×8, 8×8, 6×10 or even 6×12 columns, these 3ply 2×6 columns will often replace them and STILL BE STRONGER!

Weight: a 3ply 2×6 glu-lam, having been dried to 15% or less in order to be able to be glued, weighs just over five pounds per lineal foot. This makes a 20 foot long column nearly 2/3rds less in weight than a 6×6!

Dimensional stability: with proper storage and handling, glu-lam columns remain straight without warp or twist.

But aren’t these glu-lams going to be EXPENSIVE?

No, we found by contracting to purchase a minimum of a quarter-million board feet of glu-lams, we were able to cut costs by as much as 75% or more (depending upon market) below what we had been paying for them previously. Our cost is now even far below what we had been paying for solid-sawn 6×6 columns! In fact, what we saved on columns alone, more than pays to have entire building packages shipped to most continental United States locations!

By investing in huge quantities, we now have inventory on hand to fulfill most building orders immediately and even custom dimensions in a matter of weeks.

Call 1.866.200.9657 TODAY to participate in “The Ultimate Post-Frame Building Experience”.

And, don’t forget to watch for our next article!

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Columns, Lumber, Post Frame Home, Pole Barn Design, Barndominium, Pole Building How To Guides and tagged , , , , , on by .

Sheets of Tin, Girt Style and Post Preferences, and Eastern Red Cedar

This Monday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about the “how many sheets” of tin, and the cost of steel roof panels, what type of girt style or posts Mike would prefer, and the efficacy of Eastern Red Cedar for use as posts for a pole barn.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m thinking about building and pole barn 24×32 and 10ft height. I was wondering how many sheets of tin I will need and how much I will need for the roof. If you know how much money would it be? SCOUT in BEAR LAKE

DEAR SCOUT: As steel panels are three feet in width, you may want to consider walls being a multiple of three to maximize material efficiency and minimize waste. 24′ x 36′ would be an example. When you invest in a fully engineered post frame (pole barn) building kit package, all of the steel panels will be calculated for you and displayed on a layout sheet on your building plans. We also ensure you are provided with all trims and closure strips to properly seal your building, as well as using screws with EPDM washers – long enough to not pull out in wind events, and of a larger diameter to prevent screw slotting over time. By use of EPDM for washers (rather than rubber) they come with a manufacturer’s warranty backing up their performance to outlast your steel panels. We do not provide steel panels only.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Sorry for so many questions. Which type of girts do you prefer / recommend? Standard, bookshelf or commercial? Do codes typically allow you to build your own 6×6 laminated posts, or do you have to order them from a manufacturer? DAVID in DECATUR

DEAR DAVID: I would prefer you ask me questions, rather than regret later on not having asked. My #1 goal is to assist you from making decisions you will later be sorry you made – whether you invest in a new Hansen Pole Building or not.

If you think you will ever insulate your building’s walls and want a smooth finished interior surface, then commercial girts are an absolute best solution (I have used them on my own personal buildings).

There are many versions of ‘laminated’ columns. My personal preference is true factory built glu-lam columns, they have a tremendous strength to weight ratio, are light weight to work with, very straight and are a fully engineered product. You can field build columns, however their assembly (nailing patterns and any splices) should be designed by your building’s engineer for structural adequacy.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have an overabundance of Eastern Red Cedar on my property. Most of them are just about fence post size but quite a few are 10″ or more. Our ground is super rocky and we have very little sapwood the middle is almost totally red. Can I use these for posts in my pole Barn if I cut off the sapwood or mount them above the concrete slab. ROGER in IRONDALE

DEAR ROGER: Untreated Cedar, left exposed to weather in above ground situations probably has an expected lifespan of roughly 10 years (https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/bridges/documents/tdbp/decayres.pdf) and Mother Earth News places life expectancy of Red Cedar in ground at 15-20 years. While you may have better results, it is not something I would or could recommend when properly pressure preservative treated columns are readily available and will outlast any of our lifetimes.

Above ground, Cedars are far weaker in design capacity than commonly used structural species such as Southern Pine. Add to this, Building Codes require lumber used for structural purposes to be grade stamped.

Best use is probably for short lived fence posts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Columns, Lumber, Pole Barn Questions, Roofing Materials, Pole Barn Planning and tagged , , , , , , , on by .

Making Your Own Glulam Columns

Should I Make my Own Glulam Columns?

I’ve been internet chattering back and forth with a gentleman named Chris, who is probably never going to order a Hansen Pole Building, but it is okay – we have thousands of clients a year who are knocking at our doors (figuratively) ready to place their orders.

Total Disclosure – I do not get paid, nor does Hansen Pole Buildings, LLC get any sort of financial compensation in return for my endorsement of a particular product or vendor.  If I like a product, I will tell my readers straight up about it. Same goes the other direction.

Here is an excerpt from our most recent discussion:

Chris: “And I was going to make the laminated posts gluing and baking them, I have a local lumber company (not Lowe’s or HD ) they have good treated lumber that can be placed in ground.”

Me:  “The most important things to me are people getting great buildings and good value for their investment.

I believe you trust in my judgment. Please do you and me both a favor and buy true glulaminated columns.

Here are just a few reasons….

The 2×6 they use to make them is nearly half again stronger than anything you can buy at the lumber yard;
They use glue which is designed to hold up – even under ground and in wet conditions;
In order to get a true glue bond, the wood must be planed, then glued within 24 hours;
They have the equipment to press them during curing – which keeps them nice and straight;
The time alone you save will more than pay for them.

There are plenty of ways to save money on your new post frame (pole) building kit – building your own glulaminated columns is not one of them.  If you want to save both time and money (and end up with a better building), spend a few hours browsing about the nearly 1200 articles I have written and/or the over 600 questions I have answered from my loyal readers.

Have an idea and want to know if it is practical or not? Run it past me…. I’ll give you the straight story, every time.

This entry was posted in Columns, Horse Riding Arena, Lumber, Pole Barn Questions, Constructing a Pole Building and tagged , , , on by .

Nailed-Up Glulam Columns

Glulam Columns

Recently one of the clients of Hansen Pole Buildings asked us to compare our building, to one being quoted by another supplier.

One of the “features” of the other providers building was building glulam columns which were built out of three 2×6’s which were both glued and nailed.

Whilst our client believed these to be a true glu-laminated column (and the other supplier promoted them as such), this is not at all the case.

These particular columns are constructed with pressure preservative treated lowers, finger jointed on to a non-treated upper. So far, so good – the finger joint is far superior to columns which are butt end spliced either with no reinforcement, or with a steel plate at the splice. A successful finger joint is the most difficult part of the glulam column process, and these people have it down.

The manufacturer then spreads construction adhesive on the faces of each ply and uses a through fastener (stainless steel wire) to keep the plies together.

Therein lies, “the rub”. In concept the construction adhesive reduces the potential “slip” between the plies, making the column stiffer in the weak axis.

The reality is, construction adhesive is still only construction adhesive, and the potential for slippage between the members still exists.

In a true glu-laminated column, after laminating lowers to uppers with the same finger jointing process, each ply is face sanded. Fully water-resistant phenol-resorcinol adhesive is then applied, and the assembly is pressed together and cured in a temperature controlled environment.

The finished glulam column truly becomes a solid piece of timber. It resists warp, twist and cup far better than the construction adhesive and mechanically fastened column (as there is no potential for movement between the plies) and it is less flexible in the weak (skinny) direction as it is impossible to have between ply slippage.

I realize many consumers would not know the difference, but in my experience – a little research and a few “hard questions” gets the answers you may need to make your final decision.  My beef here is the company probably doesn’t know the difference, and is purporting them to be something….they are not.

This entry was posted in Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Barn Structure and tagged , , on by .

Do you Need a Pole Building Bolt Stretcher?

One of our clients is currently constructing his Hansen Pole Buildings kit package, in Colorado.

Colorado is one of those unusual geographic locales in the United States where the availability of any pressure treated timbers larger than a 6×6 is pretty much….not at all.

It IS possible to get glu-laminated columns, however. In this particular case, the client has a 16 foot tall sidewall, which put the building into the “glu-lam zone”.

A three ply 2×6 glu-laminated column, measures approximately 4-1/8” in width towards the wind. At the top of the column, a two ply prefabricated roof truss must be notched into the column. Ideally, the double trusses are notched fully into the column, however in this particular case, the client notched away two of the three glu-lam plies (leaving the trusses hanging off the side of the column by about 3/8”).

This left 1-3/8” of column plus the approximate 3-1/8” thickness of the double truss. The trusses are connected to the column by means of a 5 inch long 5/8” through bolt.

Doing some quick math, with 4-1/2 inches of wood, only ½ inch of the bolt will project through the column, without any flat washers in place.  There was no “room left” for the double washers and nut.  This is where I talk about getting out the old “bolt stretcher”.

How to make this work?

Insert the bolt into the hole from the side of the column opposite the trusses, without a washer in place. On the truss side, use a washer and the nut. With a wrench on each side, tighten the nut on the bolt until the washer is recessing itself into the surface of the trusses.  The lumber will “give” leaving an impression for the washer to embed itself and yes, will create more “room” for the nut.

Take the bolt, washer, and nut assembly apart. Reinsert the bolt, placing a washer on each side, and again re-tighten until both washers are fairly flush with the surface of the column and the trusses.  You can put the “bolt stretcher” safely back in its carrying case!

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building and tagged , on by .
1.866.200.9657
Building KitPrice

Know more about our pricing.

Pole Barn Guru Blog

The industry’s most comprehensive post frame blog.

Ask The Guru

This guru will grant you the answer to one pole barn question!

Pole Building Learning Center

To help guide you in the design of your new pole building.

Photo Gallery

Look at our collection of building photos for creative ideas!

Paint Your Building

Lets pick out some colors!

Most Viewed Blogs

Ask The Pole Barn Guru

Latest Blog Posts

View All